David with new Kit!
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2019, 2021, 2022
For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here. (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation) |
---|
I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.
Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).
The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.
But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them
We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.
Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.
As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.
It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.
When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.
I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.
We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.
Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.
I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day
We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.
That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)
I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.
Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.
I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.
One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.
Thank you for your posting, please continue your postings, we are heading there in September. Burn CaminoI arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.
Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).
The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.
But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them
We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.
Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.
As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.
It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.
When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.
I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.
We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.
Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.
I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day
We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.
That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)
I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.
Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.
I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.
One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.
I enjoyed reading. We also started today but took the lower way after a long hesitation. For us it was a good choice for a first day. We'll stay one day in San Sebastian and then continue. Buen CaminoI arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.
Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).
The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.
But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them
We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.
Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.
As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.
It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.
When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.
I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.
We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.
Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.
I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day
We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.
That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)
I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.
Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.
I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.
One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.
You are in a very popular area for Spanish people on holidays, so yes, be ready for higher costs...but that apart, have a great camino!I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.
Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).
The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.
But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them
We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.
Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.
As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.
It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.
When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.
I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.
We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.
Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.
I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day
We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.
That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)
I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.
Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.
I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.
One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.
thanks! I'm starting exactly one week after you, and this is really helpful. I've been thinking about the weather and am reassured about my decision to emphasize hot-weather clothes. Buen Camino!I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.
Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).
The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.
But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them
We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.
Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.
As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.
It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.
When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.
I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.
We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.
Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.
I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day
We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.
That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)
I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.
Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.
I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.
One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.
Walking with a nice stick from the forest is lovely but walking with 2 lightweight walking poles is really wonderful, especially when you’ve found your own rhythm. I can recommend them. Buen. Camino!Great tips thanks for the updates heading in September solo. Trying to control the nerves... as ive learnt from the past caminos 'what will be will be'
Never walked with poles before but will seriously consider now given your post. Usually pick up a nice walking stick in a forest but sure that cant always be guaranteed.
Buen Camino to you
Hi bfehlau, I arrive in Irun on Sept 4th and start walking on 5th. Our paths may cross. Buen Camino.Yes please keep posting! I start Sept 5 in Irun! Buen Camino!
I always spend one night in Madrid/Barcelona or the city I fly into before a camino. I do this so I can get a SIM card from Vodafone and buy some cheap hiking poles in Decathlon or some other sporting goods store. The bicycle race will wizz by you soon. Also the tourists will be leaving in a week or two so prices should go down. Infrastructure is good on the Norte. I am sure even better than when I walked in. 2017. But it is not the CF. I always buy food the night before so I have plenty to eat when I am walking. I rest and eat when my body tells me not when the town allows me. There are so many wonderful places on the Norte to pull up a rock take off your pack and take out some food. Open some sardines, make a bocadillo, eat some, nuts and fruit. Take off your shoes and enjoy the views and the sounds of the ocean and birds.I arrived in Irún yesterday after walking in from San Sebastian airport (30mins) and then did the usual things.
Checked in to the Pensión, bought supplies for the following day, got a stamp at the tourist office, had peregrino menu (12€).
The biggest decision was to buy poles or not (no, I don't need a debate about why we didn't bring our own poles). I had read about how tough the first stage would be and convinced my wife that she would be better with them. So, off to buy them. Last year I bought a pair for 25€ on the CF and donated them in CDC.
But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them
We duly set of at 0700hrs, walked 50mtrs and had a nice breakfast. It was a heavy drizzle as we set off.
Once we started the climb we got to the point where you decide if you are going over the mountain or around it.
As we wanted to see the coast we decided to go over the top. Boy oh boy, what a steep climb, we were very glad about buying the poles as they now seemed cheap at the price.
It was very, very humid today, almost like walking in a sauna. The views from the top were mixed due to low rain clouds by worth the climb. The climb up was tough as was the climb down. On balance, next time we would walk around.
When we got to Pasaje we found the first restaurant in the square charging 35€ for menu del día and the second charging 25€.
I'm not a skinflint but that was tourism at its worst.
We took the ferry to the other side and in the local restaurant had 2 X bacadillos con jamón y queso, two beers, crisps and 1.5 litres of water for less than 11€.
Our accommodation was in the first part of San Sebastian and we had a great time in the local bars and restaurants. The downside is that we have a longer walk out tomorrow.
I don't think we saw a tourist all night in this part of town. I've been to San Sebastian before, so I know how great the old bit of town would have been. But, it was too far after a long hot sweaty day
We did our laundry in the laundromat and it was 10€. Last year it was typically 8€ on the CF. Energy prices have gone up everywhere.
That's 10€ for two people every second day. (assuming I can't find facilities to do it myself)
I discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That also explains the barriers being erected in Irún.
Note to self, we need to leave sharpish tomorrow to try and not be on the road when it passes through San Sebastian.
I'm not a blogger and won't be posting regular, but if you have a question please ask.
One point about accommodation, we are not staying in public or municipal albergues so will not be able to answer availability questions.
ok - I'll do laundry by hand the whole way, then. If I'm going to spend stupid money on private rooms, I can't compound it with pricey laundry (at least until SdC, when I will go to that very chill laundromat)The laundry was 8€+5€!!!!!! It's the only show in town, hence the prices.
Oh, I am so sorry I missed this - in Zumaia, you can take the alternative Ruta del Flysch (part of it is shown on Gronze) — an absolutely spectacular coastal route into Deba. It kills me that the camino doesn’t take you over to the coast more, and that you spend so much time alongside the national highway, but I understand that “true pilgrims” would have just put their nose to the grind and walked on the shortest route to Santiago.When you get to Zumaia stop and have a break, you will need it as you climb again soon.
Thanks @peregrina2000 we did take the alternate route and it did not disappoint. I have you're copy of coastal alternatives with me and have decide to take the longer route around Santander and have planned in an extra day to do so.Oh, I am so sorry I missed this - in Zumaia, you can take the alternative Ruta del Flysch (part of it is shown on Gronze) — an absolutely spectacular coastal route into Deba. It kills me that the camino doesn’t take you over to the coast more, and that you spend so much time alongside the national highway, but I understand that “true pilgrims” would have just put their nose to the grind and walked on the shortest route to Santiago.
If you are feeling like you want to have more coastal time, @David with new Kit!, have a look at the coastal alternatives that are frequently just a km or two away from the camino but actually on the coast. They are wonderful.
I agree, I walked out of the laundromat and my wife reminded me that the next stage is tough and if we arrive knackered in sweaty clothes with nothing to change into, we might regret not doing it. So, I went back in and bit the bullet. Also, it does not have a change machine inside. Fortunately my basic Spanish enabled me to ask a bartender to swap a note for coinsok - I'll do laundry by hand the whole way, then. If I'm going to spend stupid money on private rooms, I can't compound it with pricey laundry (at least until SdC, when I will go to that very chill laundromat)
Oh how exciting! I have a green Gregory pack 44 L with a Canadian flag sewn on the left side of the pack and a Camigas patch sewn on the right side. I will be using hiking poles. I am coming from Canada and am taking my pack as carry-on but hoping my poles in a cardboard tube will arrive as regular luggage. If not, I will need to get hiking poles in Irun before starting as I see it is quite a climb for the first day. I hope our paths cross - Buen Camino to you too!Hi bfehlau, I arrive in Irun on Sept 4th and start walking on 5th. Our paths may cross. Buen Camino.
That’s great. I think you will love the route around Santander. If I ever walk it again, I will break it up and stay in Soto de la Marina in the Posada de la Morena. I have recommended that spot to several people based on @NualaOC’s experience there years ago, and it did not disappoint.Thanks @peregrina2000 we did take the alternate route and it did not disappoint. I have you're copy of coastal alternatives with me and have decide to take the longer route around Santander and have planned in an extra day to do so.
I know you don't expect to post every day, but I'm soaking up all that you're sharing, since I'm flying Sunday to start on Tuesday, following in your well-described footsteps! Thanks for all this, and buen laundry!We left Markina early again and made our way out of town. When we got to the roundabout the choice was to follow the yellow arrows along a narrow dark path along the stream or follow my (Dutch GPS route). We followed the Camino arrows along the river. But, it's dark and narrow, torch recommended if leaving in the dark.
We walked as far as the Bridgestone tyre factory and decided to leave the official route and follow the GPS alongside the road as it rejoined the Camino a bit further on.
Well, it's supposed to rejoin it but the route to rejoin is blocked off now. So, we had to continue on the road until it rejoined the Camino in the next village. Best to stick to the official route unless you like main roads.
No breakfast in Bolivar, all closed. We walked on to Munitibar, got to the main square, all still closed
But, my wife heard the sound of glasses and cups close by. If you look at the church in front of you, there is a small alley to the right of it. Go through and at least one of the two cafes will be open. A wonderful surprise.
I've been using the Dutch GPS routes and they do not always coincide with the official Camino. Also, after Munitibar the Camino has several options, so pay attention to your maps today.
There are two more café opportunities after Munitibar.
Although today, for us was 25kms, it was a lot easier (still hard though) than yesterday's 20kms and it was a tough, but enjoyable walk.
Top tip - If you are paying for laundry, then walk to the Eroski supermarket where it is 8€ wash and dry. There is a bar selling tapas (where we currently are) while your washing is done. The cherry on the cake is we can get our supplies from here for tomorrow.
All in one place, what luck!
I always spend one night in Madrid/Barcelona or the city I fly into before a camino. I do this so I can get a SIM card from Vodafone and buy some cheap hiking poles in Decathlon or some other sporting goods store. The bicycle race will wizz by you soon. Also the tourists will be leaving in a week or two so prices should go down. Infrastructure is good on the Norte. I am sure even better than when I walked in. 2017. But it is not the CF. I always buy food the night before so I have plenty to eat when I am walking. I rest and eat when my body tells me not when the town allows me. There are so many wonderful places on the Norte to pull up a rock take off your pack and take out some food. Open some sardines, make a bocadillo, eat some, nuts and fruit. Take off your shoes and enjoy the views and the sounds of the ocean and birds.
You will save some money and have a view that money can't buy.
Loving your posts David some really useful tips. Love that your wife heard the clattering of cups and discovered a cafe for you to rest inPobeña to Castro Urdiales
We bought a couple of pan aux chocolate para llevar from the restaurant last night for breakfast. We taped up our feet and set out on the Via Verde coastal route.
The views were wonderful with a nice breeze too. There is a short tunnel enroute, shored up with wooden Barton's and as we exited were were surrounded by about 12 goats, which seemed to be semi wild as there were no tags, string or bells on them, and they were all her black. The big Billy goat had an impressive set of horns, about 1m across.
We got to Onton where the route splits between the longer original route or the shorter coastal route. It's well marked in town.
If there is a cafe here, no-one found it. Outside town is a service station named "Easygas" it's well named as it only sells fuel. No refrescos of any kind.
But, the attendant told me of a cafe about 1 km further along the same road, on a curve. It was a long hot climb out of Onton with no cover, but eventually it drops down the other side to go under the autopista.
Just as it goes under, you will spot café Saltacaballo on the curve.
What a little oasis, menu del día, Zumo, breakfast beer!!
The views from the patio are superb as you can along the coast to where we started from. Also, I can see the service station in the distance, so the attendant was correct.
We arrived in town along the seafront and immediately found a bar for a couple of cold Coka Colas so that we didn't arrive at our accommodation sweating too much.
So, we checked in early today as we only had 17kms to cover and went straight to the laundromat as the C del N is not helping with my plan to do the laundry every second day.
Our accommodation tomorrow has no facilities, hence why having to do it today.
The good news is that every laundromat so far has had a bar beside it. I'm now sitting with a glass of Crianza waiting on it to end.
And, this bar has a small restaurant and I managed to reserve the last table for lunch.
We bumped into a couple from Argentina in café Saltacaballo and they had done the CF 3 times and this is their 2nd Del Norte.
We had a great conversation with them trying in English and me trying in Spanish.
With eating our main meal early, we hope to get to be early tonight as tomorrow is a 20+km day.
I stayed at Hotel Boliña through Hotels.com. We are not choosing to stay in public or municipal albergues.Just wondering re accommodation in gernika where did people stay. There seems to be no albergue?
So, we took a taxi to Liendo to get something to eat, which was a failure, and I won't bore you with the details.
Hi @Suz2022Since I'm planning to stay in Liendo next Tuesday, should I worry about finding dinner?
Posada de la Morena is booked out a week ahead!!That’s great. I think you will love the route around Santander. If I ever walk it again, I will break it up and stay in Soto de la Marina in the Posada de la Morena. I have recommended that spot to several people based on @NualaOC’s experience there years ago, and it did not disappoint.
Loving your posts! Buen camino.
Hope you will report back so that forum members will have good choices.But we have still managed to get somewhere else in Soto de la Marina for Sunday night
discovered why accommodation is expensive here and Irún. The vuelta de España 2022 starts in Irún tomorrow morning and heads off, through San Sebastian and onwards. That al
Its been 4.5 years since I walked the Norte and I still remember that climb all too well :-/ Well done for persisting, and thanks for sharing your journey!Liendo - Laredo - Castillo Siete Villas
Decided to skip breakfast in the accommodation as it was at 0830hrs, too late for us.
We left at 0730hrs and got to the ferry point in time to catch the second ferry of the day - The first ferry leaves at 0900hrs so no point arriving earlier.
We opted to walk along Laredo's 5km beach instead of walking along the promenade.
At Sontoña walk off the ferry, straight up the first Street into a little square and have your breakfast there.
Walk out of Sotoña towards Berries, walking alongside the prison walls. You will eventually have the option of continuing left, inland, or taking the coastal option to the right.
We took the coastal option. Wow, it was hard, the shortclip here shows an example of what it's like. I hesitate to say it's dangerous, but it's definitely difficult. But, great views, and when you finally get around the headland, stunning views along a great beach to Noja.
Get down there, kick of your shoes and walk. It will take over an hour to get along the beach. We walked off the beach into the first (tourist) café and ordered paella de mariscos.
The Camino continues to the right once you leave the beach. So, ignore the (very nice) tourist trap (Café el Barco) and follow the Camino around the corner to find several other cafes.
We are staying in Castillo Siete Villas tonight in Hotel Los Torres. We were delighted to find that it was less than 4kms from Noja.
The Hotel is a wonderful find (80€) and my washing is being done for me while I rest up. There is not a laundry service per se, but our clean clothes ran out today, so our host agreed to assist us.
As we had a nice lunch in Noja, it might just be beer and pintxos tonight (don't know where yet)
Santander tomorrow for two days rest, then the coastal route, but we are doing it with an overnight stop. 31 Kms to Boo is too much for us in one day.
I'm very glad that we decided to split the walk as my wife would have thrown me into the sea if she thought we were continuing to Boo.
But I’ll bet the scenery was estupendous in the sunlight! I had a gray cloudy day and was wishing for sun!was no cover and no clouds
This is what the call a campsite bungalow. In reality, it's a holiday chalet
Glad you have lived to tell the tale. Sounds like you have not only enjojyed the coast but have also conquered a few new obstacles!
But I’ll bet the scenery was estupendous in the sunlight! I had a gray cloudy day and was wishing for sun!
I am glad you found something reasonable — 42 € for two in a coastal town isn’t too bad. But I’m confused because you are staying in a campsite bungalow?
Rest your feet and thanks for the update!
Sounds like a tricky path to navigate dont think I'd risk it alone shame thoughDay 2 to Boo and then Santillana del Mar
Our accommodation was actually very pleasant and we got breakfast before 0800 hrs for 3€ each.
The walk out was pleasant and the pathway was good. Too good in fact as we had somehow gone off route early.
Taking the coastal route means checking my GPS route very often as there are a lot of opportunities to get it wrong.
I'm mostly using the Norte app, and the route is maybe 90% correct. But my biggest frustration with this app is that when you close your screen and then open it again, say 10 mins later, it mostly does not show your location. I needed to close the app and reopen it to force it to locate me. It doesn't sound much of a problem, but on this coastal option that means every 15 or so minutes and that proved a frustration in this heat.
When we got to Playa de Covachos the path dips a bit and then goes up a bit. The easy path to the left is someone's garden. So, take the rougher other option. It showed a path to the right 10 m up but we ignored it and followed the GPS route another 20m to the official route. But we bumped into a local who said that route was not used and we should backtrack to the other route. We checked it out and sure enough, it was overgrown with brambles.
When we got to Playa de la Arnia the route took us around the cafebut on the exit it tried to take us down a vertical drop, no path in sight. That is very dangerous as some people might be tempted to try. We walked up and around to get back to the path.
On to Playa de Cerrias where we found the path taped with danger tape. So, we walked through the town a short distance to rejoin, but found more danger tape. Lots of dead ends in this town, so frustration won out and we went straight up to the main road and walked around this part of the route and rejoined about 1km out of town.
A very beautiful 2nd day, of which I have added my favourite snap.
I would say that up to La Maruca there are a lot of people about if you got into difficulties. But after that, we met very few people, so maybe best to do this route in pairs as there are a lot of tripping opportunities.
We travelled 12.9kms to Boo today.
So, I'd say it's a 2 day walk to Boo and not a 1 day walk.
By the time we got to Boo, we were frustrated, knackered and hot, so we took the train to Mar.
We then sat in a bar with a few cañas, a tortilla and a large bocadillo con jamón y queso before setting off for Santillana del Mar.
So, the walk was long and hot, no cover from the sun, which topped out at 31c.
No open bars until we got to Santillana del Mar and we dropped into the first bar for vino tinto de verano and a large bottle of cold water. Our plan is to do this every time before registering at our accommodation so that we don't arrive on our knees.
It was 12.5kms to Santillana. So, a 25.4km day.
This is day 2 of my washing cycle and in the Santillana laundromat it was 7€ wash 5€ dry.
Our accommodation is Hospedería Santillana on the way out of town 63.90€, tourist town of course, could have been worse.
I did try getting into Albergue El Convento but they didn't reply to my emails and I couldn't get the phone number to work.
Oh well, let's see what tomorrow brings.
I had a great half-day in Galizano today, including the amazing beach just east of the one the Camino leads to. Tomorrow, since I'm going to Santillana del Mar (for reasons), I'll take CA 141 based on your advice. I'll be early enough that I won't notice that it's generic. I'll also take a bus partway from Santander in order to spend time there and still reach my target hotel. I'm no purist!Castillo Siete Villas to Santander
Last night we ate dinner in nearby Café Vicente and had a great time, lots of good choices.
We opted for breakfast in our accommodation once our host kindly offered to serve at 0730hrs instead of the more normal 0830hrs.
What a great breakfast around 7€ for us both. And, we were given cake in foil para llevar.
A great stop.
Our walk to Santander was all on the main road up to Galizano, where we rested our weary feet in one of the three bars (not on the road front).
We decided to take the longer costal route to Somo to break the monotony. We did not enjoying the road walk today. Perhaps the coastal route will be better......
The coastal route is very nice until it reaches the headland around Loredo.
If you use the Norte app it takes you along the beach to Somo. As our feet were taped up today, we declined that option.
If you use the Buen Camino ap it takes you inland through the pine forest. We chose this route.
It was a bad mistake for us as there were multiple paths crossing throughout the woods and "straight ahead" was not always clear. Also, there were no markers to help.
Towards the end, a kind Spanish runner cut short his walk and guided us through the rabbit warren to a proper road, from where we sorted ourselves out.
In Somo we stopped in a restaurant for lunch and to recover.
If we had continued on the road instead of the coastal route it would have been 1.5hrs (ish) . The coastal route took us 3 hrs.
Choices, eh!
It was easy to find the ferry and one was arriving as we got there, first luck of the day. Oh, remember a mask, it's mandatory on board still.
We are now in Santander in a very nice hotel for two nights. So far, our only planned rest day, but who knows....
We might not wander far today as we ache all over, especially our feet.
Good luck with your choices today.
I agree with your choice.I had a great half-day in Galizano today, including the amazing beach just east of the one the Camino leads to. Tomorrow, since I'm going to Santillana del Mar (for reasons), I'll take CA 141 based on your advice. I'll be early enough that I won't notice that it's generic. I'll also take a bus partway from Santander in order to spend time there and still reach my target hotel. I'm no purist!
Even booking all my Camino lodgings before coming to Spain, I ran into similar availability and 2-night minimum requirements. So, I've ended up with a seesaw of long and short days.The same room is 10€ cheaper on Monday night. Incidentally, the weekend pricing and availability issues are not just here in Llanes. Tomorrow we have to go to Ribadesella to get a room as everything in-between seems snatched up or they want two nights out of you.
If that ice pack is because of shin splints, @David with new Kit!, let me humbly suggest that if your beloved is still at the point that the pain goes away overnight, stretching a lot in the morning, at breaks, and after walking, works wonders. Just Google stretches shin splints and you’ll find the standard routine. If it’s become chronic that may be more complicated but I don’t think the stretches could hurt. Buen camino!I attach a picture of my beloved with an ice pack on her shin.
Thank youIf that ice pack is because of shin splints, @David with new Kit!, let me humbly suggest that if your beloved is still at the point that the pain goes away overnight, stretching a lot in the morning, at breaks, and after walking, works wonders. Just Google stretches shin splints and you’ll find the standard routine. If it’s become chronic that may be more complicated but I don’t think the stretches could hurt. Buen camino!
Your beloved is a trouper, and clearly knows the importance of self-medicating. I hope 2 days' bus rides does the trick for her; it worked wonders for me after my knees blew up on my day from Munitibar to Zamudio.I attach a picture of my beloved with an ice pack on her shin.
Let's see what tomorrow brings
We are working hard on it. I'll report back once we have a resolution one way or another. Better than it was two days ago thoughYour beloved is a trouper, and clearly knows the importance of self-medicating. I hope 2 days' bus rides does the trick for her; it worked wonders for me after my knees blew up on my day from Munitibar to Zamudio.
Whoa! Maybe depends on where you purchased them? Or inflation? In April 2022 in Irun, like that's a few months ago, I paid 40€ for a pair (and I thought THAT was expensive!)But, the cheapest I could find in Irún was 59€ and nearly didn't buy them
On the Frances i paid around 25€ so it was a bit of a shock to me too. We visited several sports shops and that was the best on the day.Whoa! Maybe depends on where you purchased them? Or inflation? In April 2022 in Irun, like that's a few months ago, I paid 40€ for a pair (and I thought THAT was expensive!)
In SJPdP the previous October, it was 20€ for a pair!
I get the cheapest ones always, bummer on the price.
Glad they were worth it though!
I got a pair at Decathlon in Irún for €16,50 on Aug 30th. Still holding up quite well!On the Frances i paid around 25€ so it was a bit of a shock to me too. We visited several sports shops and that was the best on the day.
40€ would be super , if you can remember where, perhaps you can share with the forum where you got your poles, to try and avoid my price. (And the running around that we had to do)
We got ours at Intersport.
And yes, a very worthy purchase it turned out
I love that store! Thing is, in Irun, isn't it on kinda the outskirts of town? Did you take a cab or walk, and how long did it take?I got a pair at Decathlon in Irún for €16,50 on Aug 30th. Still holding up quite well!
I walked. it was a good way to loosen up after my redeye into Madrid and connection to Hondarribia ( I also walked from Hondarribia to Irún, because it's so cool to walk from an airport!) It wasn't a pleasant walk to and from Decathlon, but life isn't always pleasant!I love that store! Thing is, in Irun, isn't it on kinda the outskirts of town? Did you take a cab or walk, and how long did it take?
Oops. Don't know how long it took to do that walk, but it wasn't crazy...I walked. it was a good way to loosen up after my redeye into Madrid and connection to Hondarribia ( I also walked from Hondarribia to Irún, because it's so cool to walk from an airport!) It wasn't a pleasant walk to and from Decathlon, but life isn't always pleasant!
I was robbed !!!!!!I got a pair at Decathlon in Irún for €16,50 on Aug 30th. Still holding up quite well!
Was wondering had anyone been there planning on making a dash for it next Tuesday eve before i start. Is it difficult to get to?I got a pair at Decathlon in Irún for €16,50 on Aug 30th. Still holding up quite well!
Best of luck to you both getting back on the road. Hope your 'beloved' has had time to heal. Ps love that you call her thatColunga to.........
So, the swelling has gone down but the foot will not extend fully due to some pain still in the shin. But definitely better than yesterday afternoon.
I think the ice helped with the swelling.
We booked bus tickets online and got to Villaviciosa where we were able to check into Albergue Congresso at 1300hrs.
I had booked a double room (bunk bed) but as there were two of us and I had added on towels, sheets etc. the lady on reception told me instead of staying in the Albergue it was the same price for a triple room in the Hotel with private bathroom - Yeah, of course, I accepted.
At the washing machine a German girl beat me to it, but, she paid for the washing and I paid for the drying. Win, win
It's fiesta time here tonight so most shops are closed.
Tomorrow will be another day of rest in Gijón so I need to sort out bus tickets again.
Gijón
We stayed in Hotel Avenida 55€ because it was close to the bus station. It turned out to be a nice 1* hotel. Leg much better today, more ice last night and the foot can extend forward much better. Getting bus to Avilés today for a look around for a few hours and then get our connection to Muros de Nalon (going direct proved too hard, it was easier booking a split journey)
Avilés
Biblioteca café a short way into town - Good stop for a breakfast before a connection. We got the earlier bus from Gijón as we realised our bus ticket was not tied to the booked time (don't know about using it on a later bus though)
Muros de Nalon
We are staying in a private apartment Ático Chic con Encanto 68€. Very nice, good communication with the owners too. It's got a washer, but no dryer. Can recommend it.
So, all in all we decided that we would use Correos to move our backpacks and start walking tomorrow to Soto de Luiña, except, this lovely apartment has no reception, so Correos can't collect.
I read in the forum and on the Correos website that as long as we can get the backpacks to a recognised pickup point all would be well.
So, feeling fired up with that knowledge I approached Albergue Camino de la Costa. The conversation did not go well. It seems that unless I'm staying there they can't help me.
It put me off trying elsewhere (nowhere else near here anyway)
So, I'm not prepared to risk the recovery of my beloved by carrying a backpack tomorrow so it's another bus dayand another rest day in Soto de Luiña. I'm getting good at navigating Spanish bus websites
However, the following four days accommodation have been booked and they are all Correos collect points. Hopefully after tomorrow we shall be back walking, albeit with very light day packs.
There is a storm breaking at the moment so maybe I'm not too unhappy.
I shall hopefully have good news to report after Soto de Luiña.
Great that you are back on the road. Sound like it's going well. Thanks for all the info on the bag transfer never really knew how it works. Handy if its ever necessary.. What a great serviceSoto de Luiña to Cadavedo
Last night we stayed in Hotel Las Apartamentos Hortona 49€. Very nice too. Washing facilities if needed.
It's a small town, it has a nice upmarket restaurant on the way in, but not what we wanted. There is a bar on the left a bit further on as you enter town, which seems to be the first watering hole, it's a bit small, inside only. But, hold on 150m and there is a larger bar in a square on your right, Bar ECU seems to be the name. Sells sandwiches, hamburgers, pintxos etc but not a meal as such. The burger is really nice though and seemed a popular choice.
There is a nice restaurant at the exit to town, which does menu del día. And, a lovely breakfast from 0730hrs.
So, Correos are now booked all the way to Santiago. I've never done this before, but needs must. It was very easy to do online.
BTW- in Gijón we went to the Correos office to get an "etiqueta de equipaje" (luggage tag). We now know that it is only used when you PAYG and put your money into it each stage. The electronic tag I needed is emailed to you after booking. You can ask your reception to have the confirmation tag printed out. But, if you can't do that you can write your details on the etiqueta instead. (That's the theory).
It's not easy attaching a paper tag to a rucksack but we had brought small ziplock freezer bags with us and they worked a treat, allowing string through the plastic to attach to the rucksack. If we had known, we would have brought proper see through tags with us. We have not found any enroute despite looking
Anyway, we are now in San Marino having a sandwich and coffee before setting off again. This is the halfway point of today.
Tip - If the cafe in San Marino is not serving menu del día, just have a drink and walk to Bellota where the restaurant at the end of town serves a lovely menu del día for 12€ - wow. The chiperones in ink were delicious.
No stops now until Cadavedo.
So, we had not had the expected confirmation from Correos that our rucksacks were collected and delivered. So, I dropped them an email and within minutes they confirmed all was good and apologized for the missing email confirmation. The rucksacks were at the accommodation when we arrived. All is well in my world.
When you get to Playa de Ballota you are only 50m from the stoney beach. But, go down and see the cliffs from the beach - lovely, don't miss it.
We walked 20.5kms today, but don't be fooled into thinking its going to be a short day. There are a lot of ups and downs, it's a great walk, but you have to work hard for it.
Our accommodation in Cadavedo tonight is Casa Ina 30€ for a twin bed room with private bathroom. What a little gem, which we found on the internet. The chap that runs it speaks no English, so have your request on Google translate if you have no Spanish.
Shin Splints
We are in a much better place today thanks to the advice which @peregrina2000 sent to me.
The three days rest was very necessary.
We started our walk today at the pace we expected to finish.
Ice pack every night, i bought ice from the supermarket and put into a zip lock freezer bag (need to buy some ice tonight)
Regular massage of the shin. The shin started to show signs of swelling several times today but we stopped each time and I massaged her shin. I was very impressed how quickly the swelling and discomfort went down each time.
Stretching exercises as often as possible.
Not out of the woods yet, but we got a day of walking completed. Hopefully all will be well in the morning.
I thought I replied, but don't see it here. I walked to the Irún Decathlon. Not the nicest walk, but it was safe, and a good way to keep loose (and stay awake) after my red-eye and connecting flight. I was staying at the Ibis on that side of town, so my timing isn't a good reference!I love that store! Thing is, in Irun, isn't it on kinda the outskirts of town? Did you take a cab or walk, and how long did it take?
It's not a pretty walk, but it's fairly easy; just use Buen Camino or Google Maps to guide you. Or, support a local and take a taxi there and walk back! (If you're staying at the Albergue, that might be a better choice). There may be bus options; I don't recall. Good luck!Was wondering had anyone been there planning on making a dash for it next Tuesday eve before i start. Is it difficult to get to?
I've started to mark your food recommendations into my guide, and was happy with a large chorizo bocadillo at Bar ECU (with un café americano). I also highly recommend Panaderia La Estrella, which is right underneath Bar ECU. Since I was feeling good after stocking up at Día, I had another coffee at Valle Las Luiñas on the way out of town. Too early to try their menu del día.Soto de Luiña
It's a small town, it has a nice upmarket restaurant on the way in, but not what we wanted. There is a bar on the left a bit further on as you enter town, which seems to be the first watering hole, it's a bit small, inside only. But, hold on 150m and there is a larger bar in a square on your right, Bar ECU seems to be the name. Sells sandwiches, hamburgers, pintxos etc but not a meal as such. The burger is really nice though and seemed a popular choice.
There is a nice restaurant at the exit to town, which does menu del día. And, a lovely breakfast from 0730hrs.
Im pleased that my little tips are of useI've started to mark your food recommendations into my guide, and was happy with a large chorizo bocadillo at Bar ECU (with un café americano). I also highly recommend Panaderia La Estrella, which is right underneath Bar ECU. Since I was feeling good after stocking up at Día, I had another coffee at Valle Las Luiñas on the way out of town. Too early to try their menu del día.
I just discovered Repsol for coffee today. In my case it was in Figueras, just before that (scary-to-me) bridge crossing into Ribadeo. The locals even use it as their panaderia.. If you find yourself struggling a bit, the Repsol service station a lot later in the walk has a cafe attached to it. It's also the point when you are nearly done with the climbing.
You will overtake me at this rate. We are of course in Vilalba tonight. I'll post later tonight.I just discovered Repsol for coffee today. In my case it was in Figueras, just before that (scary-to-me) bridge crossing into Ribadeo. The locals even use it as their panaderia.
If I catch up, I get to buy you and your "no longer suffering" wife a vinto tinto for all the great advice you've shared! I'm 2 days behind you. It'll be tough at this point, but hope springs eternal!You will overtake me at this rate. We are of course in Vilalba tonight. I'll post later tonight.
If I catch up, I get to buy you and your "no longer suffering" wife a vinto tinto for all the great advice you've shared! I'm 2 days behind you. It'll be tough at this point, but hope springs eternal!
Showers and heavy rains off and on today in Galicia, but better than hot days!Loving the norte so far we were lucky to get two beautiful days walking from irun but the rain is down for the next few days
Hope you finished strong!Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzúa
Breakfast was lovely, as expected. We left the hotel at 0730hrs and there were already pilgrims out and about.
If the little square and monastery are on your left you are going in the right direction. If either are on your right then you are heading back to Baamonde!
You enter a nice woody area very quickly, but just as quickly get to asphalt again. I reckon 90% of walking today is road walking. Remind me, did I mention the road!!!
On a more pleasing note, when you get to Sendelle, you will pass Santa Maria Iglesia. This has an old fresco in it of the last supper. There was a volunteer on duty today, so we got in, and got a sello too.
After a rather uninspiring walk we entered Arzúa and our accommodation was very early on. We are staying in Vilariño Moscoso @ 45€. We arrived a bit early but we're allowed in to drop of our stuff and to register.
We headed to Pulpería Parillada Europa to eat lunch. What a wonderful non tourist find. Pulpo for 11€, and the other prices followed suit. Even the house white wine was nice.
Pulpo - 11€
Padrón Peppers - 5€
Mixed salad - 5€
Costillas - 9€
Water - 2€
Bottle of white wine - 3.50€
Coffee - 2.40€
What a feast
A wander around, maybe a pilgrim mass tonight, and then early to bed.
We did. Only 20 ahead in the queue for the Compostela when we arrived on Wednesday.Hope you finished strong!
Well done, thanks for all the updates, brought back great memories......have fun planning the next oneWe did. Only 20 ahead in the queue for the Compostela when we arrived on Wednesday.
Got to the evening mass and saw the botofumiere in action.
Heading home today
You were two days behind, did you catch up a day or are you arriving today?
Either way, congratulations on your own Camino. Well done
Thank you - Much appreciatedWell done, thanks for all the updates, brought back great memories......have fun planning the next one
Thanks David, checking in on you again, yes Parga is wonderful especially the,Parga to Sobrado dos Monxes
Last night was a communal vegetarian dinner, which was very nice. It's also probably the first time I have had a two course vegetarian dinner, ever.
I found out that breakfast was included in the price. Cereal, coffee, tea. Also, there was a breakfast bag each to either take away, or eat in the dining area. Very nice.
I should also mention that it's colder at night and in the mornings now. Last night, as we were in the outhouse, we wore our tomorrow clothes to bed.
I had my merino hat and gloves ready for the morning as it was only 7c, we also put on our third layer for the first time.
But, still dry, still dodging the rain. It rained while we were in the woods, it rained while we were in a bar, but not otherwise
We got to Taberna la Moda at 0930hrs, and the tortilla is reputed to be the best tortilla on this part of the Camino. But as it was early we would have to wait 20mins for it to be made, so we declined as it was still early in the walk.
It will be around 3.5hrs walking to your next pit stop in As cruces.
The first half of the walk to As Cruces was delightful, but the second half was road again.
The bar in As Cruces might look closed, but it's just the light on the windows. Cross over and try the door.
The walk to Sobrado had yet another long road section. Just before Sobrado there is a route choice (who knew?) Anyway, take the left fork it's nice and easy, downhill into town.
We are staying in Hotel San Marcus @ 68€ with a nice breakfast included.
We asked the host about a recommendation to eat lunch and we ended up in Restaurant As Casiñas with menu peregrino @ 10€ - wow. Leave the hotel turn left and pass the first bar, and then it's on the left down a little lane
This is the second day of my washing routine and it's 7€ wash and dry. The lavandería is just down from the hotel.
I'm sitting in the bar opposite observing from a distance (with the timer set, of course)
Oh bu##er, I put it through the washer twice!!!!
26.5kms today - Is it my imagination or is the walking getting easier since we decided to walk slower??
We hit Arzúa tomorrow and I'm not sure if I'm excited or not to be joining the Frances if it's as busy as it was last year........still....onwards and upwards (westward actually).
Well done! Thanks for taking the time to keep us updated...We did. Only 20 ahead in the queue for the Compostela when we arrived on Wednesday.
Got to the evening mass and saw the botofumiere in action.
Heading home today
You were two days behind, did you catch up a day or are you arriving today?
Either way, congratulations on your own Camino. Well done
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?