Thanks for the tip on the water! I hadn't even thought of that...
I won't have time to get the Confraternity guide, as I fly from the US on Monday. I am relived to hear that bars are plentiful, though. I do so love the Spanish bar!
Hi, Nancy,
Have a great Primitivo. I don't remember having to take any special precautions there. I generally just carry a couple of pieces of fruit and yoghurt and a few nuts/raisins. But I never like eating a big meal till I'm done walking, and all the ending points have food. If you stay at San Juan de Villapanada (HIGHLY recomended, a great way to start the Primitivo), bring up food from Grado. The hospitalero will probably make a meal, or you and the pilgrims can do it if he's not there. He's kind of a bossy and quite opiniated guy, but his heart is in the right place and he keeps the albergue in really tip top shape.
If you stay at San Juan, you are also well positioned to stay with Alejandro in Bodenaya. This is another not to be missed albergue, but staying in Tineo beforehand is also a nice idea. The choice is between a big-ish town with a good sized albergue and a rural donativo with a dynamite hospitalero.
And you've probably read endless reports/debates about Hospitales. Here is my take on it. If you're thinking about doing it, staying in Bodenaya with Alejandro is the best option, because then the next day you go to Campiello or Borres. Campiello has Herminia's place, she is the much reviled (by the locals) entrepreneur who owns half the town at least and is always building more. But her albergue is spotless, huge industrial washing machine, decent food (with a very filling and yummy fried bread with jam breakfast -- which sounds gross but tasted delicious). Or you can stay at the municipal in Borres -- I heard just yesterday (I'm volunteering in the pilgrims office for two weeks) that is is still in need of cleaning, but there is now a bar open where you can get food. Borres is a few kms closer to the split between Hospitales and the route to Pola de Allande.
The route up to Hospitales is actually EASIER than the route from Pola de Allande to the Puerto where the two options merge. That's because Pola de Allande is at a lower elevation than Borres, so if you go that way you just have to make up to elevation you lost by going down to Pola de Allande. The two options are very different. Hospitales is up on the ridge with wide open views across in all directions. From Pola de Allande up to the puerto is a lovely green tunnel route almost all the way till you are a few hundred m from the top. In any case, both options are stunning, IMO and will just depend on your timing and staging and also on your inclinations. On this stage whetehr it's from Pola de Allande or up through Hospitales, there is a big gap with no services. So bring lots of water on this stage and food to get you through the end of the day, because this is a stage with no bars in between.
I hope you have a wonderful Primitivo. I won't be in the pilgrims office when you arrive, but there will be some volunteers in blue shirts and likely at least one will be from USA, so say hi! Buen camino, abrazos from Laurie