Hitting the road April/May 2008

[liliha]

Just a quick introduction. My name is Liliha, and I am planning to walk the Camino in April/May 2008. This is a very new idea for me, so I have done little research or planning aside from ordering both Brierly and Gitlitz and browsing the web. I look forward to the many stories and wonderful advice from all of you.

The idea to walk the Camino came to me in a flash of insight while reading Coelho's The Zahir. Actually, it was barely an idea before it became a decision. I am 31 (will be 32 by the time of my pilgrimage) and was divorced last year. I have taken some time off work and was looking for an uplifting and personal experience that will, I hope, put a period on this chapter of my life.

At this early point, I am trying to avoid the temptation to make "sightseeing" too central to my itinerary...I want to be a pilgrim, not a tourist. From your experiences, what were your "can't be missed" sights along the way, particularly those of a natural or spiritual variety? How did you fight the tourist urge?

Thank you!
Liliha

 

[vinotinto]

At this early point, I am trying to avoid the temptation to make "sightseeing" too central to my itinerary...I want to be a pilgrim, not a tourist. From your experiences, what were your "can't be missed" sights along the way, particularly those of a natural or spiritual variety? How did you fight the tourist urge?

As long as you walk, you'll be a pilgrim. Of course, some who have taken break days consider that to be stepping out of pilgrim mode and into tourist mode - especially if they've stayed in hotels vs. albergues during their interlude. But that's a matter of opinion and mindset.

At any rate, here are some sites/stops that I enjoyed:

Logrono - took a day off and stayed in a hotel. I knew I had to give my body a day to recover, and also deal with some equipment issues. I ended up buying a lighter pair of boots, and used my extra day to break them in. The rest/hotel was worth it, and Logrono was a nice city to relax in. A gal who worked at the Planeta Agua showed me some great dining spots, where I had an excellent meal the night before I returned to the Camino.

Burgos - stayed with a fellow pilgrim in a 2-star hotel. Realized my dream of doing a Segway tour with a nice Spanish gal who spoke decent English. Ate good food, got a haircut, and checked out the sights, including their famous cathedral (well, not inside, but outside was good enough for me).

Leon - stayed with an old Spanish roommate from college. Leon was where I initially encountered the Camino. Four years ago, I made my first trip to Europe for his wedding. When I got to Leon by train, I was wearing a backpack, and while we were walking to his home he mentioned that people thought I was a pilgrim. That was the genesis of my actually becoming one. Leon is also a neat place to relax in, and like Burgos has a famous cathedral.

Rabanal - in addition to an excellent albergue run by the English Confraternity of St. James, there's a monastery where you can have a free retreat (for at least 2 nights). Rabanal is right before Galicia, so it's a good place to stop and take stock of your Camino experience. If you do the retreat, you'll stay in a special building with a library and excellent communal meals. You'll have to help do dishes, cook, and do some cleanup, but other than that the day is yours to meditate, read, journal, attend one or more of the 3 daily religious ceremonies the monks/priests put on, or whatever. They even do your laundry for you

Santiago - good place to spend a couple days soaking in your accomplishment. As I did, perhaps you'll hang out with fellow pilgrims and celebrate together. You can either continue on to Finisterre, or simply take a bus there to check it out (I did neither - I want to save Finisterre for another day).

I've struggled with the idea of fitting into a certain pilgrim mindset. Some will say it's bad to stay in a hotel of any form, others say that public transport is cheating, and so on. While I'm skeptical of certain approaches to the Camino (I had a hard time with bicyclists), I at least try to give others grace, since there is always someone who is a "purer" pilgrim than I am. I think just doing the Camino is a huge deal - and any method of approaching it can lead to deeper wanderings later on. Anyway, hope this helps - buen Camino!

 

[liliha]

Thank you for this information! Great stuff!

 

[brendan nolan]

Hi Liliha,
Welcome to the Forum.
Vinotinto has given you several places to call in on, (and many thanks Vinotinto for your words re CSJ refugio at Rabanal - we do our best!), so in terms of cities I would not go much further, maybe add Astorga - Cathedral and Gaudi Palace.
There is also the diversion, about 2/3 kms to the church at Eunate, I think it is a really spiritual place, it's after Cizur Menor - 13.5 km to Muruzabal where you will the find opening hours on notice in Plaza Mayor; you don't have to return the same way, the diversion links up with the main route. Worth spending some quiet time there.
There are other places I think are really spiritual and they are big!!! Don't be afraid, they are natural. Much of the Pilgrimage is spiritual and this is the result, I think, of being out in the open each day, experiencing the weather, changes in light, and not being totally certain of where you will fnd shelter each night - being vulnerable!
But there are some areas on the route which I think can give one, if you are open to it, ( and you get good weather!) a 'spiritual' experience. So one of the 'big areas' for me is the Meseta after Burgos, approx 7 days to cross it and in April/May very likely to be bursting with Spring flowers which I won't attempt to describe, a big sky and the Cantabrian Mountains on your right for a week. I'll just say that I have an enlarged photo on a wall at home showing the track and poppies/flowers in the adjoining fields. For me it is so beautiful and spiritual, but I heard one young pilgrim say it was boring. So ....
A second area, for me, is the section after Astorga as you move into the Montes de Leon towards, and beyond Rabanal, here the mountain views and the Spring flowers should lift your spirit (!) even if you find the going a bit tough. And Galicia with the eucalyptus woods is another world.
I think with your sensitivity to the 'spiritual' you will hav e a wonderful pilgrimage.

Buen Camino,

Brendan

 

[vinotinto]

Hi Liliha,
So one of the 'big areas' for me is the Meseta after Burgos, approx 7 days to cross it and in April/May very likely to be bursting with Spring flowers which I won't attempt to describe, a big sky and the Cantabrian Mountains on your right for a week. I'll just say that I have an enlarged photo on a wall at home showing the track and poppies/flowers in the adjoining fields. For me it is so beautiful and spiritual, but I heard one young pilgrim say it was boring.

Yes - the meseta should not be missed. It was one of the best parts of the trek for me. There's nowhere to hide from yourself out there, so it can be a time of deep (and possibly difficult and distressing) reflection and contemplation. Indeed, I think it is best walked alone - being under that huge sky, hot sun, and lovely but desolate landscape is to be savored. And you never know what song lyrics you'll find yourself singing - I kept belting out "Tea in the Sahara" by the Police Buen Camino!

 

[brendan nolan]

Hi Vinotinto,
Thanks for your affirmation on last post re Meseta, it really made me feel good.
Best wishes,
Brendan