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HotAny idea what the weather is like in early August starting in St Jean Pied de Port and heading towards Pamplona?
Peregrina 2000 suggests a number of coastal variants which we either took or considered. One of these, the coastal suggestion out of Islares we found to be very, very, very difficult with some vertical climbing involved as well as a long, steep, zigzagging descent through broken rocks on an indistinct path. We received help to follow the correct path on the way down from a young French girl out for a walk, as well as a kind, young American couple who assisted us with the climb.
Hi, Laurie, You may well be right about not necessarily being on the option you described. We turned off the N634 just after El Pontarron, followed the path to Orinon and then followed the green footpath to Sonabia. From the entrance to Sonabia we followed a formally marked walking path which indicated the distance to Laredo 9 kms. This ascended, became very narrow and turned into a 40 metre or so vertical ascent through a chute to the escarpment. After about one km + there was a steel rope fixed to the cliff side and a very narrow path above a drop of about 150 metres to the sea below. We passed through a narrow cleft between the mountainside and a pillar of rock and the descent began on the other side. We did not have a GPS. We did follow a number of your options and enjoyed them, particularly those following the GR 121 from Pasajes, into Deba etc. When we get back to Australia we will add some observations from our experiences. Many thanks for your additions to the del Norte. Kind regards, Pat and AnneHi, Anne and Pat,
It would be great if you would add your comments to the coastal alternatives thread so others can see them. I think that perhaps the route you took from Islares was not the one I took, but rather the one Luka recommended? If you look at post number 5 in that thread, you will see I describe two options. I did 4A, and I don’t remember any bad patches, maybe you were on 4B, which is what Luka describbed, I don’t know. Did you have a GPS?
I attended a talk about walking the Camino del Norte and the gal giving the account made it sound like she was on a Sunday stroll. Very much doubt much of her account was accurate. I'm not a newby to Camino walks, I have walked the French Way three times and there were hard days . I know the weather is always changing by the sea because I live in sight of it.
I would like to walk this northern route next September. I would like a honest version from someone who has walked Camino del Norte. Example: how steep are the descents , not worried about the climbs ; how lonely are the pathways ; how much road walking is there and how much traffic on these roads ; how difficult is it to find food and lodging and how easy is it to get lost because of poor signage. Also how is the weather in September , is there a lot of fog?
I attended a talk about walking the Camino del Norte and the gal giving the account made it sound like she was on a Sunday stroll. ....... Example: how steep are the descents , not worried about the climbs ; how lonely are the pathways ; how much road walking is there and how much traffic on these roads ; how difficult is it to find food and lodging and how easy is it to get lost because of poor signage. Also how is the weather in September , is there a lot of fog?
When road walking always have high viz yellow to cover your pack. If the pack cover you get with your pack is anything but search the internet for the yellow. Blaze orange is my second choice. If you have such colors and they have been with you for some time they might be faded and need to be replaced, or 'freshened up'.Hi AC, We have just completed the del Norte, beginning in Irun on 26 April and finishing in Santiago on 13 June, before walking on to Finisterre and Muxia. We have also walked the Frances and Portugues.
This Spring in Spain was apparently unseasonably wet so our observations with regard to weather and mud may not apply to you.
Firstly, we found the del Norte more difficult than either of the other Caminos. There are very many hills to climb and descend. There is not much flat walking. Depending on some of the options you choose you can make the path very difficult for yourself but, at the same time, these higher or more difficult options certainly have benefits. For example, the high option out of Soto de Luina is spectacular in good weather but you are likely to be walking it absolutely alone. The descent from this option is steep and the option adds a bit extra to the distance into Cadavedo. The high option out of Mondoñedo includes a very steep and long climb to the top of the escarpment. It took us one and three quarter hours from the start of the serious climb to reach the top. It was worth it in our opinion. We saw one other walking pilgrim and two cyclists while taking the whole option into Abadin. From Irun the descent into Pasajes de San Juan is also quite steep. We took the Purgatorio route from Irun which gives spectacular views. There were plenty of other pilgrims doing the same. Peregrina 2000 suggests a number of coastal variants which we either took or considered. One of these, the coastal suggestion out of Islares we found to be very, very, very difficult with some vertical climbing involved as well as a long, steep, zigzagging descent through broken rocks on an indistinct path. We received help to follow the correct path on the way down from a young French girl out for a walk, as well as a kind, young American couple who assisted us with the climb. The views were, however, spectacular! Weather in all these options will be the critical factor. We both slipped and fell several times descending wet and muddy paths. The Wise Pilgrim guidebook is mostly accurate. Signage is very good, so long as you are paying attention all the time. We missed a couple of turns but the usual Camino Angel saved us from too great an error. There is a lot of road walking and due to this we each wore out a pair of Salomon boots. Our experience with September in Santiago is: no fog and warm to hot weather with long days. Finally, the road or highway walking is relatively safe if you walk on the left facing the oncoming traffic and assume that not every driver will either see you or give you a lot of room. There are some quite dangerous road walking sections, in particular, the last km or so into Salinas follows a narrow, very busy, winding road with no footpath or shoulder. You will need to be very careful on this. I was most concerned here. In summary, the del Norte is no walk in the park but, nevertheless, very enjoyable. Best wishes and Buen Camino, Pat and Anne
Wow @A.C. you're not asking much. Having had an opportunity to discuss your questions, face-to-face with someone who has walked the Norte you've dismissed their knowledge and opinions and instead posed the question to a bunch of random strangers on the internet. Presumably you can't be bothered to research the various guides, blogs and threads on this topic, let alone the historic weather sites, and come to your own discoveries and conclusions. What will you do if a couple of dozen Norte fans tell you that all the descents are gentle, you will have company all the way, the roads are closed to vehicular traffic, all Albergues serve sumptuous meals and you can't get lost because there is always a smiling local, with perfect English, to guide you on your way with a smile?
If you have walked the Frances three times and experienced hard days then you already know that those hard days never come in the same place or in the same way. The weather, your own physical or mental state and even what you had or didn't have for breakfast change the Way in more ways than the Way will ever change you.
Here are my honest opinions: steep, what goes up must come down. You'll be walking a popular route in 'shoulder' times through a populated area - there will be people and pilgrims about but nothing, absolutely nothing like the Frances. Accommodations in September? No problem. Getting lost? Only through carelessness, the Norte is well marked and the available guidebooks are excellent. The weather? How is it where you are? We've just followed the coldest spring on record with the hottest May on record. The tadpoles that didn't freeze baked in the dried out ponds.
I hope you walk the Norte. I hope you have a 'Buen Camino'. But if you doubt others who have walked it then you'll just have to trust in Santiago and find out for yourself.
Thanks Nic for the kind observations. You probably saw us in euphoric mode due to the imminent arrival in Santiago and the relief that we had made it after 49 days. Glad you appear to have made it home safely. It was terrific to hear an Australian accent at Monte de Gozo and then to see you again in the Plaza d’Obradoiro. Best wishes for your future Caminos, Pat and AnneThe Norte musn't have been too hard for Anne and Pat, they were full of energy when I met them at Monte do Gozo just outside Santiago. Some Italian cyclists were hogging the Monument for photos, think Pat threatened to let the air out of their tyres if they didn't hurry up and move on. Again met them at the Cathedral for more photo opportunities, mass that night then saw them in the streets of Santiago next day walking briskly after 800km on the Norte and soon to be heading to Finnisterre and Muxia.
Based on those observations the Norte may well be a 'walk in the park', or they just breed them tough down Country Victoria way...
Sorry Nick. Nic is one of our daughters names and I’m just used to spelling it that way. Regards, Pat
I attended a talk about walking the Camino del Norte and the gal giving the account made it sound like she was on a Sunday stroll. Very much doubt much of her account was accurate. I'm not a newby to Camino walks, I have walked the French Way three times and there were hard days . I know the weather is always changing by the sea because I live in sight of it.
I would like to walk this northern route next September. I would like a honest version from someone who has walked Camino del Norte. Example: how steep are the descents , not worried about the climbs ; how lonely are the pathways ; how much road walking is there and how much traffic on these roads ; how difficult is it to find food and lodging and how easy is it to get lost because of poor signage. Also how is the weather in September , is there a lot of fog?
My wife and I walked the Norte from Irun Sept 1 toto Oct 12, last year . It is not without its challenges. The Basque country has many steep climbs and corresponding descents.. The weather was quite wet initially, almost daily rain, but it was not unpleasantly cold or windy....just a bit of a nuisance! Most of our camino was in fine weather after the 1st 10 days. We had no trouble finding accommodations and the trails were very well marked generally. There were a few exceptions in each province except Galicia, but nothing that couldn't be sorted out without too much backtracking. There is a moderate amount of road walking, but mainly it is on trails. The scenery is breathtaking along the coast, the small villages are unique and picturesque, and the people generally warm and accommodating.
The biggest disappointment was joining the Francais near A Brea near the end point of our Camino. What had been a pretty pristine walk for the most part, morphed into a vandalized, littered, and crowded walk with obvious signs of disrespect for the pilgrimage....graffiti, human waste, etc. But it is the memory of the first 750+ kms that remain etched in our memories most vividly.
I am sure you will love doing the Norte. The camino provides, and each obstacle you meet, you will overcome. Buen Camino!
Pick on someone your own size . You’re a bully !Wow @A.C. you're not asking much. Having had an opportunity to discuss your questions, face-to-face with someone who has walked the Norte you've dismissed their knowledge and opinions and instead posed the question to a bunch of random strangers on the internet. Presumably you can't be bothered to research the various guides, blogs and threads on this topic, let alone the historic weather sites, and come to your own discoveries and conclusions. What will you do if a couple of dozen Norte fans tell you that all the descents are gentle, you will have company all the way, the roads are closed to vehicular traffic, all Albergues serve sumptuous meals and you can't get lost because there is always a smiling local, with perfect English, to guide you on your way with a smile?
If you have walked the Frances three times and experienced hard days then you already know that those hard days never come in the same place or in the same way. The weather, your own physical or mental state and even what you had or didn't have for breakfast change the Way in more ways than the Way will ever change you.
Here are my honest opinions: steep, what goes up must come down. You'll be walking a popular route in 'shoulder' times through a populated area - there will be people and pilgrims about but nothing, absolutely nothing like the Frances. Accommodations in September? No problem. Getting lost? Only through carelessness, the Norte is well marked and the available guidebooks are excellent. The weather? How is it where you are? We've just followed the coldest spring on record with the hottest May on record. The tadpoles that didn't freeze baked in the dried out ponds.
I hope you walk the Norte. I hope you have a 'Buen Camino'. But if you doubt others who have walked it then you'll just have to trust in Santiago and find out for yourself.
Pick on someone your own size . You’re a bully !
The interesting thing is that the OP waited three years before posting their reply!Ah. I’ve just noticed that this thread is 3 years old. I often fall into that trap. I’m considering deleting.
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