- Time of past OR future Camino
- Recent:Norte/Muxia- Spring '23
MadridWay- Fall '23
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I echo Sabine’s welcome back. Have you stopped walking, inside? Glad you have a day to take stock... or do you have more time?After many months of daydreaming, planning and preparation, I set out for the month of June with two Camino friends to walk the Via Podiensis from Le Puy to Auvillar. It is a beautiful route, passing through several regions, each one different than the next.
I have walked three Caminos in Spain; the full Frances, the Norte and Primitivo, but my opinion is that the Le Puy was the most difficult for me. There are so many ups and downs and sometimes they seemed relentless with no end in sight. I was thankful when the path would become flat for awhile and the last few days seemed easier. The many rocks, loose stones and roots and mud at times had me watching my feet quite often. We thankfully had very little rain in June and the beauty made up for any hardships.
The changing landscapes were lovely and the stone villages of French architecture are truly outstanding, with about 4-5 villages we passed through being on France's "100 most beautiful villages" list.
We booked ahead a day or two at a time, using the tourist office when available or having our current gite owner calling for us.
There were not many coffee/rest stops during the day, often only one at a halfway point, (no red or white San Miguel plastic chairs seen ahead to bring a smile), so we always carried snacks as a backup. My personal favorites were small cans of pate or salmon, cherry tomatoes, pre-made couscous salad, and chocolate bars with nuts.
Many of the communal dinners were delicious and I was surprised that often a plate of unique cheeses was passed around the table before dessert, but never with crackers. All very filling and after walking nearly 480 kilometers I only lost 2 pounds! I found it interesting that at breakfast the coffee is served in what we in America would call cereal bowls. I prefer a mug with a handle, but the French seemed fine picking these "bowls" up with two hands.
Oh yes, speaking of the French people, it was just as everyone else has said on the forum; they love to walk with friends, often in groups of approximately 3 to 8. Most are of retirement age, and there were very few younger people, maybe because it is a more expensive route. My daily average spent hovered around 50+ Euros per day. The bottleneck of French walkers we experienced sometimes in the beginning thinned out after a week or two. Very few of them spoke much English. Almost everyone from the northern European countries speak very good English, but they were only about 10% of the hikers. We only met about five people from the United States in a month, which was surprising, so in many of the villages the locals were excited to meet US citizens and always asked what state/city we were from. I got the impression we were a rarity in this less touristy part of France.
The three of us women walking together got along well, but it was interesting to note how we each viewed this Camino differently. One of them firmly declared that she was a "pilgrim", for the other gal it was a "vacation", and for me it was an "adventure".
Did I prefer one Camino over another?
I'd have to say I enjoyed them all equally, but each for different reasons, so I cannot choose a favorite...they are all favorites!
Yes, water was not a problem, but we only had a few days of heat requiring more.Hi Chris,
Thanks for your summary. Were you able to fill up on water easily enough along the way?
Thank you
Ellie
Thank you, Kirkie! I am not melancholy...yet. It feels good to be home for now. Maybe it will come a little later like it usually does, the yearning for another.I echo Sabine’s welcome back. Have you stopped walking, inside? Glad you have a day to take stock... or do you have more time?
Yes, water was not a problem, but we only had a few days of heat requiring more.
reached its final end? Are you serious???Thank you, Kirkie! I am not melancholy...yet. It feels good to be home for now. Maybe it will come a little later like it usually does, the yearning for another.
Hey, I see you have a new Avatar. Nice! And may I ask how the "Not a serious thread" is going, or has it reached its final end? Lol.
Ha! I'll have to try and take a look. I do not get notifications about new posts on it any more.reached its final end? Are you serious???
Where are you walking in 2019Ha! I'll have to try and take a look. I do not get notifications about new posts on it any more.
As soon as I know, I will let you know! Lol!Where are you walking in 2019
We were forewarned to take the first several days slow with some recommendations, so here's what we started with and so glad we listened to the advice of others.We intend to walk this route next year. How many altimeters did you take one day? Regards, Marthy.
Walked this 3 times and agree with recommendations.
Really hard to get veges. Often no shops and if you could get a meal the most vegetable like dish was insalata mixta....if it hadn't been for the wildflowers it would have been very monotonous after Segovia. No regrets though!@gittiharre do you regret walking the Madrid? Could you get veges if you were to prepare your own food?
Interesting Chris. If you want to look at my pics etc send me a private message and I can send you a link to the album via email.Hi Gitti, thanks for your insights. I had been thinking of the Madrid route, but with the desert you mentioned and not so great food, I may take it off my possibilities. Also, the San Salvador looked appealing and I had noticed others too saying just a couple of days held spectacular scenery...hmm, I think I'll go back to the drawing board!
Thanks, Dave!Congratulations on the Camino, and welcome home, Chris.
After many months of daydreaming, planning and preparation, I set out for the month of June with two Camino friends to walk the Via Podiensis from Le Puy to Auvillar. It is a beautiful route, passing through several regions, each one different than the next. We opted to take the Cele Valley variant, dipping down to Saint Cirq Lapopie. The cliff areas and ancient villages were beautiful and was another feast for the eyes!
I have walked three Caminos in Spain; the full Frances, the Norte and Primitivo, but my opinion is that the Le Puy was the most difficult for me. There are so many ups and downs and sometimes they seemed relentless with no end in sight. I was thankful when the path would become flat for awhile and the last few days seemed easier. The many rocks, loose stones and roots and mud at times had me watching my feet quite often. We thankfully had very little rain in June and the beauty made up for any hardships.
The changing landscapes were lovely and the stone villages of French architecture are truly outstanding, with about 4-5 villages we passed through being on France's "100 most beautiful villages" list.
We booked ahead a day or two at a time, using the tourist office when available or having our current gite owner calling for us.
There were not many coffee/rest stops during the day, often only one at a halfway point, (no red or white San Miguel plastic chairs seen ahead to bring a smile), so we always carried snacks as a backup. My personal favorites were small cans of pate or salmon, cherry tomatoes, pre-made couscous salad, and chocolate bars with nuts.
Many of the communal dinners were delicious and I was surprised that often a plate of unique cheeses was passed around the table before dessert, but never with crackers. All very filling and after walking nearly 480 kilometers I only lost 2 pounds! I found it interesting that at breakfast the coffee is served in what we in America would call cereal bowls. I prefer a mug with a handle, but the French seemed fine picking these "bowls" up with two hands.
Oh yes, speaking of the French people, it was just as everyone else has said on the forum; they love to walk with friends, often in groups of approximately 3 to 8. Most are of retirement age, and there were very few younger people, maybe because it is a more expensive route. My daily average spent hovered around 50+ Euros per day. The bottleneck of French walkers we experienced sometimes in the beginning thinned out after a week or two. Very few of them spoke much English. Almost everyone from the northern European countries speak very good English, but they were only about 10% of the hikers. We only met about five people from the United States in a month, which was surprising, so in many of the villages the locals were excited to meet US citizens and always asked what state/city we were from. I got the impression we were a rarity in this less touristy part of France.
The three of us women walking together got along well, but it was interesting to note how we each viewed this Camino differently. One of them firmly declared that she was a "pilgrim", for the other gal it was a "vacation", and for me it was an "adventure".
Did I prefer one Camino over another?
I'd have to say I enjoyed them all equally, but each for different reasons, so I cannot choose a favorite...they are all favorites![/QUOTE
Thank you for your beautifully detailed post. I so agreed with all that you said! It was so nice to vicariously remember our Le Puy walk from earlier this year. I certainly concur with the level of physical difficulty for one, and the concentration needed to negotiate roots and trees, and those frequent ups and downs! (Saugues , comes to mind) .Always as you are leaving a town early in the morning, before those legs were very warmed up! We had a lot of mud in April so that was always a factor, and some snow in the Allbrac Plateau , so we always needed to have our wits about us. The reward of natural beauty was always compensation, but in all ,I did find it a tough Camino. I missed the cheery ‘Buen Camino’ that we were often freely given on other Camino’s , but the friendliness was always there at tourist bureaus and wherever I tried to string my limited French together. We found the way marking excellent , but like you, we missed those red chairs you mentioned at mid morning! ( those custard tarts from Portugal! In particular!) . We did a different variant in the middle choosing to go to Rocamadour, instead of the Cele Route , and found that punishing- being so long with little in the middle at all, and walking what we estimated was nearly a 40km day! Friends we had walked with have shared how much they had appreciated the overall beauty of the Cele Route so me may try that one day. We loved the walk , and were sad when we finished in st Jean, as we were sad when we ‘finished’ in Santiago from Lisbon the year before.
I’m not sure if I am an ‘adventurer’, ‘vacationer’, or a true pilgrim , but I certainly found myself dipping into all those elements at various stages of my walk. There were a few moments of frustration, ( a few leg issues) , disappointment ( with some road walking , when we unwittingly got off the GR65) and exhaustion but equal measure, there was awe (with amazing vistas), moments of joy -at simple pleasures (a cafe- open!) , and just being outside in nature. beautiful spring flowers, impossibly green sunny paddocks, with a prevailing sense of inner contentment and gratitude that something much bigger than myself has made it all possible.
We head out in 10 days. These first few stages are what I have planned. Given what you know now about the ups and downs would you shorten any of these segments? I’m getting a little nervous because we struggled so much on the Tour Mont Blanc. Any advice is appreciated!We were forewarned to take the first several days slow with some recommendations, so here's what we started with and so glad we listened to the advice of others.
1. LePuy to Montbonnet- 17.3 kilometers
2. Montbonnet to Monistral d 'Allier- 14.4
3. Monistral to Saugues- 12.6
4. Saugues to La Sauvage- 19.8
5. to Saint Alban- 13.5
6. to Lasbros- 21.4
From here on we averaged between 18-26 k per day depending on terrain and lodging options, so it varied quite a bit at times.
You will love many things about this route, but it is quite different than Spain!
Very doable!We head out in 10 days. These first few stages are what I have planned. Given what you know now about the ups and downs would you shorten any of these segments? I’m getting a little nervous because we struggled so much on the Tour Mont Blanc. Any advice is appreciated!
I felt I managed these first several days quite well. You kind of manage with the plans you have in place and persevere until you arrive at the daily destination. If you think the kilometers I've listed are too difficult, you probably could shorten the longer ones, but I felt it was doable.We head out in 10 days. These first few stages are what I have planned. Given what you know now about the ups and downs would you shorten any of these segments? I’m getting a little nervous because we struggled so much on the Tour Mont Blanc. Any advice is appreciated!
and @Skybrasil..hmm, I think I'll go back to the drawing board!
If you speak a little French the aaccueil jaquaire are wonderful opportunities to connect with French life.Thank you, Gitti, I will read your blogs for what I know will be some good information.
After many months of daydreaming, planning and preparation, I set out for the month of June with two Camino friends to walk the Via Podiensis from Le Puy to Auvillar. It is a beautiful route, passing through several regions, each one different than the next. We opted to take the Cele Valley variant, dipping down to Saint Cirq Lapopie. The cliff areas and ancient villages were beautiful and was another feast for the eyes!
I have walked three Caminos in Spain; the full Frances, the Norte and Primitivo, but my opinion is that the Le Puy was the most difficult for me. There are so many ups and downs and sometimes they seemed relentless with no end in sight. I was thankful when the path would become flat for awhile and the last few days seemed easier. The many rocks, loose stones and roots and mud at times had me watching my feet quite often. We thankfully had very little rain in June and the beauty made up for any hardships.
The changing landscapes were lovely and the stone villages of French architecture are truly outstanding, with about 4-5 villages we passed through being on France's "100 most beautiful villages" list.
We booked ahead a day or two at a time, using the tourist office when available or having our current gite owner calling for us.
There were not many coffee/rest stops during the day, often only one at a halfway point, (no red or white San Miguel plastic chairs seen ahead to bring a smile), so we always carried snacks as a backup. My personal favorites were small cans of pate or salmon, cherry tomatoes, pre-made couscous salad, and chocolate bars with nuts.
Many of the communal dinners were delicious and I was surprised that often a plate of unique cheeses was passed around the table before dessert, but never with crackers. All very filling and after walking nearly 480 kilometers I only lost 2 pounds! I found it interesting that at breakfast the coffee is served in what we in America would call cereal bowls. I prefer a mug with a handle, but the French seemed fine picking these "bowls" up with two hands.
Oh yes, speaking of the French people, it was just as everyone else has said on the forum; they love to walk with friends, often in groups of approximately 3 to 8. Most are of retirement age, and there were very few younger people, maybe because it is a more expensive route. My daily average spent hovered around 50+ Euros per day. The bottleneck of French walkers we experienced sometimes in the beginning thinned out after a week or two. Very few of them spoke much English. Almost everyone from the northern European countries speak very good English, but they were only about 10% of the hikers. We only met about five people from the United States in a month, which was surprising, so in many of the villages the locals were excited to meet US citizens and always asked what state/city we were from. I got the impression we were a rarity in this less touristy part of France.
The three of us women walking together got along well, but it was interesting to note how we each viewed this Camino differently. One of them firmly declared that she was a "pilgrim", for the other gal it was a "vacation", and for me it was an "adventure".
Did I prefer one Camino over another?
I'd have to say I enjoyed them all equally, but each for different reasons, so I cannot choose a favorite...they are all favorites!
Hi Sophie, Which route did you walk in Italy? Was it worth the hardship and also did it have enough infrastructure in your opinion?
We had Sandy Brown's Guide, another by an Italian author was a bit more accurate, but sometimes lacked in the english translation, and the walkers we met had a Dutch guide. I hear people complaining about Brierly, etc...please know, THIS response is NOT that...The Way of St Francis in our experience really is way way off in the guides. I would suggest waiting a year or two, beginning in LaVerna and spending a day or two there beforehand in the magical forests and the fabulous monastery on the hilltop. Most everything before that was just crazy making...lolThank you for your speedy reply and honesty, Sophie. I assume that you walked The Way of St. Francis, not the Via Francigena. Did you use Sandy Brown's guidebook? If and when I would do one of those two main routes in Italy, I was slightly more interested in the St. Francis way, but think I will put that one on the back burner. I have heard the VF is better waymarked.
Hi Chris, thank you for your distance recommendation for the first stages of the Le Puy route. I plan to start end of April 2019. I read of weather warnings at that time of year and am taking note. I've done a number of Spanish Caminos and the Portuguese camino. I might have further queries for you and others who are kind enough to post information. I will get the Miam Miam Dodo when newly published.We were forewarned to take the first several days slow with some recommendations, so here's what we started with and so glad we listened to the advice of others.
1. LePuy to Montbonnet- 17.3 kilometers
2. Montbonnet to Monistral d 'Allier- 14.4
3. Monistral to Saugues- 12.6
4. Saugues to La Sauvage- 19.8
5. to Saint Alban- 13.5
6. to Lasbros- 21.4
From here on we averaged between 18-26 k per day depending on terrain and lodging options, so it varied quite a bit at times.
You will love many things about this route, but it is quite different than Spain!
Camino Chris, Do you have your entire itinerary that you could share with me? Sounds like we both have the same idea about mileage...tho perhaps I was starting a bit too aggressively.We were forewarned to take the first several days slow with some recommendations, so here's what we started with and so glad we listened to the advice of others.
From here on we averaged between 18-26 k per day depending on terrain and lodging options, so it varied quite a bit at times.
- LePuy to Montbonnet- 17.3 kilometers
- Montbonnet to Monistral d 'Allier- 14.4
- Monistral to Saugues- 12.6
- Saugues to La Sauvage- 19.8
- to Saint Alban- 13.5
- to Lasbros- 21.4
You will love many things about this route, but it is quite different than Spain!
Thanks for the extra info Chris.Hope my list can help you with your planning. The stars* are because my memories are more vivid, either because exceptional place to stay and/or because of the fantastic gourmet quality meals provided.
We did take one taxi ride from Golinhac to Conques. It was raining and we decided we wanted to arrive early in Conques to enjoy a full day. We did not regret it as it is incredible. Usually the Abbaye has to be reserved early. But it is worth it!
All other lodgings were secured a day in advance, except in Moissac, where we booked before we left on our trip by email.
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