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Excellent point @Charrito. I was always wondering why there are so few places in the village on Google Maps despite its rich heritage. It was because you can't easily add them without coverage! I learned there to take screen shoots and add places on the Camino later !I stayed in the Aldea Real at the top of the village. Not cheap, but it's the only place for miles. Fantastic treatment from the owners (Ramiro and his niece Ana). Marvellous room, a lovely garden.
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Even though I was the only person staying there, Ana prepared me an evening meal:
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As I would be leaving early the following morning she also provided me with a massive basket for my breakfast:
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One thing: there is absolutely no phone signal anywhere in the village, but the WiFi works perfectly in the room and downstairs.
50 euros for the room, evening meal and breakfast.
Iād say any path trod by peregrino/a feet these days is authentic.Before I start writing about the different stages, it's necessary to mention the conflict which (unfortuately) exists between two different caminos from Ribadavia.
The Camino MiƱoto Ribeiro claims to be the 'authentic' route, while the Geira e dos Arrieiros comes up from Braga in Portugal and then passes through Ribadavia.
There is a bit of a 'war' going on between the two caminos, and you'll find signs for both at times. The same goes for the sellos: I have plenty of both. The two routes go side by side at times, then one veers off, to join up again and then they go off in different directions.
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Germans say ā Tote Hose ā (litterally ā dead pair of trousersā which means ā nothing happensIf you've stayed in Hostal Plaza you'll find plenty of cafĆ©s open early in the morning in town. If you go into the CafĆ© Bar O Morto on Rua do Progreso, ask the owner for an explanation of the name! I'm saying nothing, but it's an interesting story!
Here's what I found on the Internet about O Morto:
El origen del nombre no estĆ” tan claro. Unos lo vinculan a que Ribadavia, a parte del vino, durante dĆ©cadas era el epicentro gallego de la industria funeraria con la presencia de varias fĆ”bricas de ataĆŗdes. Los transportistas que recogĆan los pedidos en las fĆ”bricas posteriormente paraban delante del bar, llamando bastante la atenciĆ³n la presencia de ataĆŗdes en frente a una cafeterĆa, por lo tanto lo empezaron a llamar el bar dos mortos (los muertos, en gallego). La versiĆ³n que defiende el actual propietario es que dĆ©cadas atrĆ”s los vecinos y forasteros hacĆan su parada en el establecimiento preguntĆ”ndole a los dueƱos de entonces como andaba el negocio, y estos respondĆan Isto estĆ” morto. Y como siempre andaban con la misma cantinela, se quedĆ³ el apelativo O Morto para el Bar Progreso.
A German punk rock band from DĆ¼sseldorf?? Die Toten Hosen!Germans say ā Tote Hose ā (litterally ā dead pair of trousersā which means ā nothing happens. Nice story
Am really enjoying your commentary and photos!Before I continue with the rest of the stage from Codeseda to A Estrada I need to say that practically every single establishment has a stamp available for your credencial! I have never experienced this in other lesser-known caminos!
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buen camino, Charrito, and you have missed the wildest parts of this Camino, do not miss Braga to Ribadavia, Castro Laboreiro is simply like a different planet, so wild!!!My Final Thoughts
This is a wonderful camino, and highly recommendable. However, it's not for novices and you definitely need to:
have some sort of GPS on your phoneplan the stages carefullybook accommodation in advanceThe only super difficult stage is the one from Pazos de Arenteiro to Beariz.
The people you will meet are more than friendly.
This camino will 'take off' over the bext couple of years, so my suggestion would be for you to walk it soon; otherwise, it will go the way of others!
As many of you know, I am in love with the Camino de Invierno, but now - after having walked this one (at least from Ribadivia) - I may have found a new favourite!
Buen Camino to you all. If you need any more information or details, please send me a direct message.
That's my next plan!buen camino, Charrito, and you have missed the wildest parts of this Camino, do not miss Braga to Ribadavia, Castro Laboreiro is simply like a different planet, so wild!!!
Amancio beat me to my question ā when are you heading to Braga?That's my next plan!
Any time soon!Amancio beat me to my question ā when are you heading to Braga?
I have always done my utmost to provide precise and up-to-date practical information!@Charrito, I am working my way backwards through your thread. I would guess it is really useful for those who might consider walking it. Your approach is really helpful and practical. I am at post 32, but I need to get a move on, so the previous ones can wait. Thanks for your helpful contribution.
I think I've made my peace with people on here (well, with most of the people on here)!
Thanks for your comments. It really is a lovely camino (although I still have to do the stretch from Braga to Ribadavia).Thank you for your notes and beautiful pictures of this special Camino. Now it is on top of my bucket list. Who can resist such a camino?
You write that a GPS on the phone is necessary - would an app like Maps.me be sufficient?
If you like the Invierno (and I know that you do!), then you'll love this camino!Just stumbling on this very interesting thread now, thank you @Charrito!
It was totally off my radar screen until last year, and even knowing about it didn't really make much of an impression. But these posts just nudged it up a bit on my eternal list.
A comparison in detail later would be fun to read. No pressure, of course.If you like the Invierno (and I know that you do!), then you'll love this camino!
I think I'll wait until I've walked the whole of this camino (from Braga) before making any sort of detailed comparison with the Invierno.A comparison in detail later would be fun to read. No pressure, of course.
Thank you!Thanks for your comments. It really is a lovely camino (although I still have to do the stretch from Braga to Ribadavia).
I have Mapy.cz on my phone and it works a treat. The route is clearly marked on the app and you know exactly where you are at all times. Here's a screenshot, with the camino in blue:
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