Jim McMurtrie
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances April-May 2018
Frances September-October 2019
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We did the Portuguese last year from Lisbon and several people including ourselves were not enamoured with very flat and rather boring countryside. You could fly into Lisbon and take a train to Fatima and start there then head inland back to the central path to Tomar and your on your way to Santiago. Tomar is very beautiful and of historical significance. I can't say much about transporting backpacks because we carried ours but I don't think it is as popular as in Spain. Your choice of spring is good as I have done 2 caminos in the fall and from now on will do them in the spring. The days get longer in spring and it helps if you don't have to start your day in the dark. We did mid Sept to mid Oct and left the albergues before 7am in the dark.We are planning our 2019 Camino. The question is do we start in Lisbon or Porto. We intend to do Finistere and Muxia which we didn't get to on our Frances this spring. We will need to have at least one backpack transportred occasionally and it seems that there is none available between Lisbon and Porto. Any insight would be appreciated.
I’m currently on The Portuguese Camino about 100KM south of Porto. I haven’t come across anyone sending their bags ahead. The accommodation and food is generally better and cheaper than on the French Camino.We are planning our 2019 Camino. The question is do we start in Lisbon or Porto. We intend to do Finistere and Muxia which we didn't get to on our Frances this spring. We will need to have at least one backpack transportred occasionally and it seems that there is none available between Lisbon and Porto. Any insight would be appreciated.
I think that your response really highlights something that people almost always fail to mention when they ask questions regarding which Camino to walk. It is obvious that you have a great love for the Camino and you are very aware of the beauty and culture which surrounds us on our Caminos. When people ask me about which Camino to walk I never think about everything you have just mentioned. In fact most everything you have mentioned I missed COMPLETELY when I walked CP last year.Well, I haven’t walked from Lisbon since 2008, when it was barely a twinkle in anyone’s eyes, but it did not disappoint. I like walking solitary caminos, so the fact that I was all alone didn’t bother me. I did get lost in a couple of eucalyptus forests, but the markings have been dramatically improved. I am never bored on a camino, I am just present in the moment. If it happens to be a few kms on the side of the highway, so be it, if it goes through the “boring” outskirts of big cities, well, that’s where you see people going about their regular normal daily lives. I love dramatic mountain scenery as much as the next person, and have gone to the Olvidado, Vadiense, Levante, etc for that, but enjoyed the small villages and pleasant rural setting in Portugal too. I think that the Porto vs. Lisbon decision requires you to figure out what it is you are looking for. What I want in a camino is the backdrop to a very long, frequently solitary, walk with open spaces and passing through towns and villages so I can rest, buy food, etc. A few historical or archaeological sites are great to fill in the afternoon hours but for me it’s all about the walking. Maybe that’s why I have never walked a camino that I didn’t love!
But if you are curious about what there is to do and see, the highlights before Porto for me were numerous:
— the walk out of Lisbon goes through the Alfama, the old port area with its beautiful buildings, past the tile museum (well worth a visit), the Parque das Naçoes, a long park along the Tejo River, site of an expo in the 90s and very pleasant.
—small towns like Azambuja, Golega, Vila Franca, Ansiao, etc etc. have their little plaza, market, church, all pleasant. There are plenty of historical buildings and parks to explore. Good local restaurants. I tend to be pretty active, and was always happy to walk around town and explore, and there was almost always something to see and do. And the people are so kind and helpful.
— you can see the birthplace of Portugal’s Nobel Prize author, José Saramago in Azinhaga.
— the ruined royal estate at Cardiga is a great place for a stop and hunting around you can find some fragments of what must have been beautiful tiled murals.
— Tomar, as others have said, has a must-visit monastery/castle up above the town, and the central part of the town down below has lovely little squares, a nice river park, etc.
— The Roman villa outside of Rabaçal is very interesting. There is a museum in town with some artifacts and historical explanation and the person in charge of giving tours drove me and one other out to the site for the visit. Beautiful mosaics of the four seasons.
— Roman ruins at Conímbriga are very interesting, lots of mosaics, baths, ongoing excavations.
— Coimbra is an ancient university city, and its old core has a romanesque fortress-type cathedral, plus the old universitiy library open for visits.
— if you are a meat eater, there is no place like Mealhada to eat roast suckling pig. There are as many restaurants in Mealhada as there are albergues in Sarria, I bet.
Though this thread is four years old, the video at the start of the thread will give some personal experiences. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/why-start-in-lisbon.29651/#post-633867
The numbers have increased dramatically, so I think most people walking these days from Lisbon join up with others. One really nice new feature is the albergue in the small village of Alpriate. It’s 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral, intended to be a first day’s stopping point. It is run by the Via Lusitana, the Lisbon amigos association, and they are very helpful. The bar in Alpriate has good homemade food and crazy cheap prices — no pilgrim gouging here.
So, yes, this has run on quite a bit, so I will close by saying that I will always choose a longer route over a shorter route, and since Lisbon is 300 km south of Porto, it was an easy decision. Bom caminho, Laurie
I walked from Lisbon to Finisterre in September last year and was amazed how cheap food, drink and accommodation was compared to the Frances, especially from Lisbon to Porto. A few times I had a private room in an Albergue for 10 or 12 euros. Have to agree with other opinions about the boring sections.Many thanks to all . Still undecided but will continue to ponder. enticed by the food and lodging responses. Maybe the coastal from Porto to SdC then Finistere/Muxia?
Many thanks to all . Still undecided but will continue to ponder. enticed by the food and lodging responses. Maybe the coastal from Porto to SdC then Finistere/Muxia?
I second everything! Just returned from my Camino Lisbon to Santiago. I thoroughly enjoyed it!!Well, I haven’t walked from Lisbon since 2008, when it was barely a twinkle in anyone’s eyes, but it did not disappoint. I like walking solitary caminos, so the fact that I was all alone didn’t bother me. I did get lost in a couple of eucalyptus forests, but the markings have been dramatically improved. I am never bored on a camino, I am just present in the moment. If it happens to be a few kms on the side of the highway, so be it, if it goes through the “boring” outskirts of big cities, well, that’s where you see people going about their regular normal daily lives. I love dramatic mountain scenery as much as the next person, and have gone to the Olvidado, Vadiense, Levante, etc for that, but enjoyed the small villages and pleasant rural setting in Portugal too. I think that the Porto vs. Lisbon decision requires you to figure out what it is you are looking for. What I want in a camino is the backdrop to a very long, frequently solitary, walk with open spaces and passing through towns and villages so I can rest, buy food, etc. A few historical or archaeological sites are great to fill in the afternoon hours but for me it’s all about the walking. Maybe that’s why I have never walked a camino that I didn’t love!
But if you are curious about what there is to do and see, the highlights before Porto for me were numerous:
— the walk out of Lisbon goes through the Alfama, the old port area with its beautiful buildings, past the tile museum (well worth a visit), the Parque das Naçoes, a long park along the Tejo River, site of an expo in the 90s and very pleasant.
—small towns like Azambuja, Golega, Vila Franca, Ansiao, etc etc. have their little plaza, market, church, all pleasant. There are plenty of historical buildings and parks to explore. Good local restaurants. I tend to be pretty active, and was always happy to walk around town and explore, and there was almost always something to see and do. And the people are so kind and helpful.
— you can see the birthplace of Portugal’s Nobel Prize author, José Saramago in Azinhaga.
— the ruined royal estate at Cardiga is a great place for a stop and hunting around you can find some fragments of what must have been beautiful tiled murals.
— Tomar, as others have said, has a must-visit monastery/castle up above the town, and the central part of the town down below has lovely little squares, a nice river park, etc.
— The Roman villa outside of Rabaçal is very interesting. There is a museum in town with some artifacts and historical explanation and the person in charge of giving tours drove me and one other out to the site for the visit. Beautiful mosaics of the four seasons.
— Roman ruins at Conímbriga are very interesting, lots of mosaics, baths, ongoing excavations.
— Coimbra is an ancient university city, and its old core has a romanesque fortress-type cathedral, plus the old universitiy library open for visits.
— if you are a meat eater, there is no place like Mealhada to eat roast suckling pig. There are as many restaurants in Mealhada as there are albergues in Sarria, I bet.
Though this thread is four years old, the video at the start of the thread will give some personal experiences. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/why-start-in-lisbon.29651/#post-633867
The numbers have increased dramatically, so I think most people walking these days from Lisbon join up with others. One really nice new feature is the albergue in the small village of Alpriate. It’s 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral, intended to be a first day’s stopping point. It is run by the Via Lusitana, the Lisbon amigos association, and they are very helpful. The bar in Alpriate has good homemade food and crazy cheap prices — no pilgrim gouging here.
So, yes, this has run on quite a bit, so I will close by saying that I will always choose a longer route over a shorter route, and since Lisbon is 300 km south of Porto, it was an easy decision. Bom caminho, Laurie
We started in Coimbra!! It was awesome!!We are planning our 2019 Camino. The question is do we start in Lisbon or Porto. We intend to do Finistere and Muxia which we didn't get to on our Frances this spring. We will need to have at least one backpack transportred occasionally and it seems that there is none available between Lisbon and Porto. Any insight would be appreciated.
Well, I haven’t walked from Lisbon since 2008, when it was barely a twinkle in anyone’s eyes, but it did not disappoint. I like walking solitary caminos, so the fact that I was all alone didn’t bother me. I did get lost in a couple of eucalyptus forests, but the markings have been dramatically improved. I am never bored on a camino, I am just present in the moment. If it happens to be a few kms on the side of the highway, so be it, if it goes through the “boring” outskirts of big cities, well, that’s where you see people going about their regular normal daily lives. I love dramatic mountain scenery as much as the next person, and have gone to the Olvidado, Vadiense, Levante, etc for that, but enjoyed the small villages and pleasant rural setting in Portugal too. I think that the Porto vs. Lisbon decision requires you to figure out what it is you are looking for. What I want in a camino is the backdrop to a very long, frequently solitary, walk with open spaces and passing through towns and villages so I can rest, buy food, etc. A few historical or archaeological sites are great to fill in the afternoon hours but for me it’s all about the walking. Maybe that’s why I have never walked a camino that I didn’t love!
But if you are curious about what there is to do and see, the highlights before Porto for me were numerous:
— the walk out of Lisbon goes through the Alfama, the old port area with its beautiful buildings, past the tile museum (well worth a visit), the Parque das Naçoes, a long park along the Tejo River, site of an expo in the 90s and very pleasant.
—small towns like Azambuja, Golega, Vila Franca, Ansiao, etc etc. have their little plaza, market, church, all pleasant. There are plenty of historical buildings and parks to explore. Good local restaurants. I tend to be pretty active, and was always happy to walk around town and explore, and there was almost always something to see and do. And the people are so kind and helpful.
— you can see the birthplace of Portugal’s Nobel Prize author, José Saramago in Azinhaga.
— the ruined royal estate at Cardiga is a great place for a stop and hunting around you can find some fragments of what must have been beautiful tiled murals.
— Tomar, as others have said, has a must-visit monastery/castle up above the town, and the central part of the town down below has lovely little squares, a nice river park, etc.
— The Roman villa outside of Rabaçal is very interesting. There is a museum in town with some artifacts and historical explanation and the person in charge of giving tours drove me and one other out to the site for the visit. Beautiful mosaics of the four seasons.
— Roman ruins at Conímbriga are very interesting, lots of mosaics, baths, ongoing excavations.
— Coimbra is an ancient university city, and its old core has a romanesque fortress-type cathedral, plus the old universitiy library open for visits.
— if you are a meat eater, there is no place like Mealhada to eat roast suckling pig. There are as many restaurants in Mealhada as there are albergues in Sarria, I bet.
Though this thread is four years old, the video at the start of the thread will give some personal experiences. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/why-start-in-lisbon.29651/#post-633867
The numbers have increased dramatically, so I think most people walking these days from Lisbon join up with others. One really nice new feature is the albergue in the small village of Alpriate. It’s 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral, intended to be a first day’s stopping point. It is run by the Via Lusitana, the Lisbon amigos association, and they are very helpful. The bar in Alpriate has good homemade food and crazy cheap prices — no pilgrim gouging here.
So, yes, this has run on quite a bit, so I will close by saying that I will always choose a longer route over a shorter route, and since Lisbon is 300 km south of Porto, it was an easy decision. Bom caminho, Laurie
We are planning our 2019 Camino. The question is do we start in Lisbon or Porto. We intend to do Finistere and Muxia which we didn't get to on our Frances this spring. We will need to have at least one backpack transportred occasionally and it seems that there is none available between Lisbon and Porto. Any insight would be appreciated.
Many thanks to all, as always great information and opinions.
Lisbon it is. In retrospect, a great deal of the Frances experience was immersion into the culture so why not. Next, the logistics.
Jim & Jane
Many thanks to all . Still undecided but will continue to ponder. enticed by the food and lodging responses. Maybe the coastal from Porto to SdC then Finistere/Muxia?
Well, I haven’t walked from Lisbon since 2008, when it was barely a twinkle in anyone’s eyes, but it did not disappoint. I like walking solitary caminos, so the fact that I was all alone didn’t bother me. I did get lost in a couple of eucalyptus forests, but the markings have been dramatically improved. I am never bored on a camino, I am just present in the moment. If it happens to be a few kms on the side of the highway, so be it, if it goes through the “boring” outskirts of big cities, well, that’s where you see people going about their regular normal daily lives. I love dramatic mountain scenery as much as the next person, and have gone to the Olvidado, Vadiense, Levante, etc for that, but enjoyed the small villages and pleasant rural setting in Portugal too. I think that the Porto vs. Lisbon decision requires you to figure out what it is you are looking for. What I want in a camino is the backdrop to a very long, frequently solitary, walk with open spaces and passing through towns and villages so I can rest, buy food, etc. A few historical or archaeological sites are great to fill in the afternoon hours but for me it’s all about the walking. Maybe that’s why I have never walked a camino that I didn’t love!
But if you are curious about what there is to do and see, the highlights before Porto for me were numerous:
— the walk out of Lisbon goes through the Alfama, the old port area with its beautiful buildings, past the tile museum (well worth a visit), the Parque das Naçoes, a long park along the Tejo River, site of an expo in the 90s and very pleasant.
—small towns like Azambuja, Golega, Vila Franca, Ansiao, etc etc. have their little plaza, market, church, all pleasant. There are plenty of historical buildings and parks to explore. Good local restaurants. I tend to be pretty active, and was always happy to walk around town and explore, and there was almost always something to see and do. And the people are so kind and helpful.
— you can see the birthplace of Portugal’s Nobel Prize author, José Saramago in Azinhaga.
— the ruined royal estate at Cardiga is a great place for a stop and hunting around you can find some fragments of what must have been beautiful tiled murals.
— Tomar, as others have said, has a must-visit monastery/castle up above the town, and the central part of the town down below has lovely little squares, a nice river park, etc.
— The Roman villa outside of Rabaçal is very interesting. There is a museum in town with some artifacts and historical explanation and the person in charge of giving tours drove me and one other out to the site for the visit. Beautiful mosaics of the four seasons.
— Roman ruins at Conímbriga are very interesting, lots of mosaics, baths, ongoing excavations.
— Coimbra is an ancient university city, and its old core has a romanesque fortress-type cathedral, plus the old universitiy library open for visits.
— if you are a meat eater, there is no place like Mealhada to eat roast suckling pig. There are as many restaurants in Mealhada as there are albergues in Sarria, I bet.
Though this thread is four years old, the video at the start of the thread will give some personal experiences. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/why-start-in-lisbon.29651/#post-633867
The numbers have increased dramatically, so I think most people walking these days from Lisbon join up with others. One really nice new feature is the albergue in the small village of Alpriate. It’s 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral, intended to be a first day’s stopping point. It is run by the Via Lusitana, the Lisbon amigos association, and they are very helpful. The bar in Alpriate has good homemade food and crazy cheap prices — no pilgrim gouging here.
So, yes, this has run on quite a bit, so I will close by saying that I will always choose a longer route over a shorter route, and since Lisbon is 300 km south of Porto, it was an easy decision. Bom caminho, Laurie
Well, I haven’t walked from Lisbon since 2008, when it was barely a twinkle in anyone’s eyes, but it did not disappoint. I like walking solitary caminos, so the fact that I was all alone didn’t bother me. I did get lost in a couple of eucalyptus forests, but the markings have been dramatically improved. I am never bored on a camino, I am just present in the moment. If it happens to be a few kms on the side of the highway, so be it, if it goes through the “boring” outskirts of big cities, well, that’s where you see people going about their regular normal daily lives. I love dramatic mountain scenery as much as the next person, and have gone to the Olvidado, Vadiense, Levante, etc for that, but enjoyed the small villages and pleasant rural setting in Portugal too. I think that the Porto vs. Lisbon decision requires you to figure out what it is you are looking for. What I want in a camino is the backdrop to a very long, frequently solitary, walk with open spaces and passing through towns and villages so I can rest, buy food, etc. A few historical or archaeological sites are great to fill in the afternoon hours but for me it’s all about the walking. Maybe that’s why I have never walked a camino that I didn’t love!
But if you are curious about what there is to do and see, the highlights before Porto for me were numerous:
— the walk out of Lisbon goes through the Alfama, the old port area with its beautiful buildings, past the tile museum (well worth a visit), the Parque das Naçoes, a long park along the Tejo River, site of an expo in the 90s and very pleasant.
—small towns like Azambuja, Golega, Vila Franca, Ansiao, etc etc. have their little plaza, market, church, all pleasant. There are plenty of historical buildings and parks to explore. Good local restaurants. I tend to be pretty active, and was always happy to walk around town and explore, and there was almost always something to see and do. And the people are so kind and helpful.
— you can see the birthplace of Portugal’s Nobel Prize author, José Saramago in Azinhaga.
— the ruined royal estate at Cardiga is a great place for a stop and hunting around you can find some fragments of what must have been beautiful tiled murals.
— Tomar, as others have said, has a must-visit monastery/castle up above the town, and the central part of the town down below has lovely little squares, a nice river park, etc.
— The Roman villa outside of Rabaçal is very interesting. There is a museum in town with some artifacts and historical explanation and the person in charge of giving tours drove me and one other out to the site for the visit. Beautiful mosaics of the four seasons.
— Roman ruins at Conímbriga are very interesting, lots of mosaics, baths, ongoing excavations.
— Coimbra is an ancient university city, and its old core has a romanesque fortress-type cathedral, plus the old universitiy library open for visits.
— if you are a meat eater, there is no place like Mealhada to eat roast suckling pig. There are as many restaurants in Mealhada as there are albergues in Sarria, I bet.
Though this thread is four years old, the video at the start of the thread will give some personal experiences. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/why-start-in-lisbon.29651/#post-633867
The numbers have increased dramatically, so I think most people walking these days from Lisbon join up with others. One really nice new feature is the albergue in the small village of Alpriate. It’s 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral, intended to be a first day’s stopping point. It is run by the Via Lusitana, the Lisbon amigos association, and they are very helpful. The bar in Alpriate has good homemade food and crazy cheap prices — no pilgrim gouging here.
So, yes, this has run on quite a bit, so I will close by saying that I will always choose a longer route over a shorter route, and since Lisbon is 300 km south of Porto, it was an easy decision. Bom caminho, Laurie
Hi Texas guy. I am thinking of a last minute Porto to SDC. You say November is wonderful. I am a little concerned about weather changing and walking totally solo. Don't mind cold but incessant rain would not appeal. I know it is a juggle and no one can forecast but....your two bits on this?Having done once from Lisbon and another time from Porto, I would do it from Porto the next time. And if you can, do it in November. Truly, Truly, beautiful.
Buen Camino.
Texasguy
Why do you say you'd start from Faro? Is there a camino route from there to Lisbon?Lisbon, Lisbon, Lisbon. Glad we did and would do it again. Although I would start from Faro next time.
Apparently so. I just have not found it but read it from another person. I think from a FB groupWhy do you say you'd start from Faro? Is there a camino route from there to Lisbon?
I know it's a year old, but it sounds good I am flying to Faro, and plan on starting in Lisboa, and then walking for three weeks, starting middle of September, just to decide on whether to carry a sleeping bag and waterproof trousers.Well, I haven’t walked from Lisbon since 2008, when it was barely a twinkle in anyone’s eyes, but it did not disappoint. I like walking solitary caminos, so the fact that I was all alone didn’t bother me. I did get lost in a couple of eucalyptus forests, but the markings have been dramatically improved. I am never bored on a camino, I am just present in the moment. If it happens to be a few kms on the side of the highway, so be it, if it goes through the “boring” outskirts of big cities, well, that’s where you see people going about their regular normal daily lives. I love dramatic mountain scenery as much as the next person, and have gone to the Olvidado, Vadiense, Levante, etc for that, but enjoyed the small villages and pleasant rural setting in Portugal too. I think that the Porto vs. Lisbon decision requires you to figure out what it is you are looking for. What I want in a camino is the backdrop to a very long, frequently solitary, walk with open spaces and passing through towns and villages so I can rest, buy food, etc. A few historical or archaeological sites are great to fill in the afternoon hours but for me it’s all about the walking. Maybe that’s why I have never walked a camino that I didn’t love!
But if you are curious about what there is to do and see, the highlights before Porto for me were numerous:
— the walk out of Lisbon goes through the Alfama, the old port area with its beautiful buildings, past the tile museum (well worth a visit), the Parque das Naçoes, a long park along the Tejo River, site of an expo in the 90s and very pleasant.
—small towns like Azambuja, Golega, Vila Franca, Ansiao, etc etc. have their little plaza, market, church, all pleasant. There are plenty of historical buildings and parks to explore. Good local restaurants. I tend to be pretty active, and was always happy to walk around town and explore, and there was almost always something to see and do. And the people are so kind and helpful.
— you can see the birthplace of Portugal’s Nobel Prize author, José Saramago in Azinhaga.
— the ruined royal estate at Cardiga is a great place for a stop and hunting around you can find some fragments of what must have been beautiful tiled murals.
— Tomar, as others have said, has a must-visit monastery/castle up above the town, and the central part of the town down below has lovely little squares, a nice river park, etc.
— The Roman villa outside of Rabaçal is very interesting. There is a museum in town with some artifacts and historical explanation and the person in charge of giving tours drove me and one other out to the site for the visit. Beautiful mosaics of the four seasons.
— Roman ruins at Conímbriga are very interesting, lots of mosaics, baths, ongoing excavations.
— Coimbra is an ancient university city, and its old core has a romanesque fortress-type cathedral, plus the old universitiy library open for visits.
— if you are a meat eater, there is no place like Mealhada to eat roast suckling pig. There are as many restaurants in Mealhada as there are albergues in Sarria, I bet.
Though this thread is four years old, the video at the start of the thread will give some personal experiences. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/why-start-in-lisbon.29651/#post-633867
The numbers have increased dramatically, so I think most people walking these days from Lisbon join up with others. One really nice new feature is the albergue in the small village of Alpriate. It’s 21 km from the Lisbon cathedral, intended to be a first day’s stopping point. It is run by the Via Lusitana, the Lisbon amigos association, and they are very helpful. The bar in Alpriate has good homemade food and crazy cheap prices — no pilgrim gouging here.
So, yes, this has run on quite a bit, so I will close by saying that I will always choose a longer route over a shorter route, and since Lisbon is 300 km south of Porto, it was an easy decision. Bom caminho, Laurie
Have you found out anymore about a camino fro Faro ? I'm flying there in September, but probably bus to Lisboa.Apparently so. I just have not found it but read it from another person. I think from a FB group
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