Lisbon to Porto: Jan 2024

[Corned Beef]

Need to get in some training for 2024 so what better way is there than completing a camino. Have done Porto to SdC so would like to explore the southern end of the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon towards the end of January.

Looking for an update accomodation list and some hints on pilgrim Portuguese phrases. It's been suggested you could try French at a pinch but not Spanish. Also what clothes to pack weatherwise.

Views and comments welcome.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

OK, I walked this route in Nov-Dec 2022, I think, I get them mixed up. I am sure about the months but not the year.

1) Its pretty solitary. Which could be a good thing or bad thing depending on your preferences.
2) Distances required never seemed daunting. (its all relative tho)
3) The food is better in Portugal. (Waiting to get the hate on that one!)
4) There is more English spoken there.
5) Like, if you've walked the Frances or whatever, and are used to finding a bench on the side of the trail... well, they don't exist there. Good luck finding a place to sit protected from either the sun or the rain.

 

[jungleboy]

Looking for an update accomodation list and some hints on pilgrim Portuguese phrases.

Not the most romantic answer but just put whatever phrases you want to know into ChatGPT or another machine translation service; they are good at basic things like this. And while trying to speak some words of a local language is always to be encouraged, just bear in mind that if a Portuguese person speaks Portuguese back to you, you will have a lot of trouble understanding it even if you speak Spanish.

It's been suggested you could try French at a pinch but not Spanish.

French can be an option when speaking to older people as it was the primary foreign language taught in Portugal until the 1970s. But English is very widely spoken in Portugal. Among European countries, the level of English spoken in Portugal is similar to that of Belgium and much higher than Spain/France/Italy. Spanish is indeed discouraged for historical reasons as the various Spanish kingdoms were basically the primary enemy of Portugal for nearly 1000 years.

 

[dick bird]

Portuguese people generally understand Spanish and are fairly tolerant of foreigners using it, but the whole pronunciation systems of the two languages are completely different. Many Portuguese people worked and lived in France and many went to school there. English, however, has been taught very extensively in Portugal ( at times by me) for a long time and imported TV was not dubbed so the level of English is pretty good. But a few courtesy words will be much appreciated.

 

[Michael Mattalo]

Need to get in some training for 2024 so what better way is there than completing a camino. Have done Porto to SdC so would like to explore the southern end of the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon towards the end of January.

Looking for an update accomodation list and some hints on pilgrim Portuguese phrases. It's been suggested you could try French at a pinch but not Spanish. Also what clothes to pack weatherwise.

Views and comments welcome.

Of the 3 Caminos I’ve walked (Norte, Frances, Portuguese), the stretch from Lisbon to Porto (for me) was very unpleasant. Lots of highway walking, loads of trash, relentless heat (40c+ for days on end) … just couldn’t get in the Camino frame of mind (again, solely my / my wife’s experience). We had nice stops in Tomar, Rabaçal, Coimbra and a day trip to Fatima … I could have skipped the rest. Topping it off, we were stopped for 3 days in Coimbra because of threatening forest fires. Ended up repositioning from Coimbra to Porto and hitting the Camino Reset button. I hope your way is far better an experience. A “must” is a day trip to Fatima.

 

[lt56ny]

Not the most romantic answer but just put whatever phrases you want to know into ChatGPT or another machine translation service; they are good at basic things like this. And while trying to speak some words of a local language is always to be encouraged, just bear in mind that if a Portuguese person speaks Portuguese back to you, you will have a lot of trouble understanding it even if you speak Spanish.


French can be an option when speaking to older people as it was the primary foreign language taught in Portugal until the 1970s. But English is very widely spoken in Portugal. Among European countries, the level of English spoken in Portugal is similar to that of Belgium and much higher than Spain/France/Italy. Spanish is indeed discouraged for historical reasons as the various Spanish kingdoms were basically the primary enemy of Portugal for nearly 1000 years.

bear in mind that if a Portuguese person speaks Portuguese back to you, you will have a lot of trouble understanding it even if you speak Spanish.

I can speak some Spanish and when a Portuguese person speaks to me in Spanish I have no idea what they are saying . I walked from Lisbon in 2017, and spent 10 days in Portugal with my daughter after my 2019 camino, and walked the third leg of my camino last year from Porto and I have never really had issues with language. As you say lots of people speak at least some and many speak very good English. I say never worry about a thing because you are in a beautiful country with beautiful people.

 

[Steve57]

Need to get in some training for 2024 so what better way is there than completing a camino. Have done Porto to SdC so would like to explore the southern end of the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon towards the end of January.

Looking for an update accomodation list and some hints on pilgrim Portuguese phrases. It's been suggested you could try French at a pinch but not Spanish. Also what clothes to pack weatherwise.

Views and comments welcom

Walked from Lisbon to Santiago in May. Very warm weather, but far too much walking on roads including one day of through an industrial estate. Highlights were Santarem ( apart from the hill upto the town ) Tomar and Coimbra. Other Pilgrims I met who had previously walked the Camino Frances all hated the walking on the roads. I persevered as it was my first Camino. Accommodation was pretty good, but had to walk 40+ KMs on the first day due to the Albergue in Alpriate had not reopened after the Pandemic. Managed to stay in a Catholic church in Alhandra, recommended if open. Cafe nearby.
Bom Camino

Need to get in some training for 2024 so what better way is there than completing a camino. Have done Porto to SdC so would like to explore the southern end of the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon towards the end of January.

Looking for an update accomodation list and some hints on pilgrim Portuguese phrases. It's been suggested you could try French at a pinch but not Spanish. Also what clothes to pack weatherwise.

Views and comments welcome.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I'm glad I didn't walk the Portuguese from Lisbon, but visited the city, along with Sintra as tourists before starting in Porto on the central route. At a later date we eventually rented a vehicle and spent time in Tomar, Coimbra, Fatima, the Douro river valley, and my favorite hilltop village of Marvao, Portugal.

 

[Elle Bieling]

@Corned Beef, just do it! This section gets a bad rap, but I enjoyed it. Especially the towns mentioned and the Portuguese people and food. It is cheaper than Spain, by a bit, and yes, there are long, dry and hot sections. Just be prepared. Train for this one and carry tons of water!

 

[trecile]

Its pretty solitary. Which could be a good thing or bad thing depending on your preferences.

And probably much more so in January!

) There is more English spoken there.

In the larger towns that's true, but in the smaller villages not so much. I had booked a pensión in Vila Franca de Xira and had to phone when I got there to be let into the building. The man who answered the phone didn't speak English (and I can say very little in Portuguese), but asked me if I spoke Spanish, so we were able to converse. In Alvorge the very busy owner of the restaurant/albergue did not speak English or Spanish, but he spoke French. Fortunately, I was walking with a French guy who translated for me.

@Corned Beef, just do it! This section gets a bad rap, but I enjoyed it.

I agree!

 

[Lleslie]

My friend and I walked from Lisbon mid May this year. We were prepared for this first half to be not as interesting/ industrial/ road walking from all the negative comments we've read on here. Maybe because we had set the bar so low we actually enjoyed it, taking the good with the bad. Tomato planting was in full swing which was fascinating to watch for city slickers, tractors busy ferrying loads of seedlings, workers busy with the planting etc. Really enjoyed Tomar and Coimbra where we had rest days. Yes, there's not so many pilgrims as from Porto but even so the albergue at Azambuja was full the night we were there. We had a nice little group that we kept bumping into all the way to Porto where our routes and schedules diverted but met up with some of them again in Santiago and Finisterre.

 

[Lleslie]

I kept a daily blog if anyone would like to read about the Lisbon to Porto section
- polarsteps.com/LindaLeslie23

 

[Corned Beef]

Just looking at this again and it seems a missed opportunity not to go to Fatima if I am not continuing to to Santiago.

From what I can see from the Amigos dos Caminhos de Fátima website the route should be Lisbon to Santarem (C. Portuguese). Then Santarem to Fatima (C do Tejo/Tagus Way). From Fatima take the Rota Carmelita to Coimbra then back onto the C. Portuguese.

Looking at the route in detail there may be a section where I may need to use pilgrim accommodation though I try to avoid punishing fellow travellers with my snoring. Do you need to have a stamped credential on this route to access accomodation and where can I get one?

 

[Elle Bieling]

@Corned Beef you could just stay on the regular, Portuguese Way and take a side trip from Tomar to Fátima on the Caminho Nascente. It is 30 km walk, and perhaps a walk or taxi-ride back to Tomar? Then you don't have to deal with any other logistics. I cover this info on my website, click here to see it. You will have to scroll down past the info on the Convento de Cristo, to the info on the Camino Nascente. Plus you get to see the best on the CP, that includes Tomar and Coimbra. I don't know what the other routes have to offer, but this is what I would do.

 

[jidiculous]

I haven't been there at this time of year, but I walked the Portuguese Central and Coastal routes (probably the same as what you walked) last year and this year in November.

In terms of clothing I recommend that you have solid raingear - December through January seems to have the most precipitation in Lisbon and Porto, historically. I remember seeing videos of a particularly bad rainstorm in Porto last year, so keep an eye out for flooding warnings as you go.

You might also want to consider breathable, synthetic fabrics (or merino), as those tend to be quick-drying. These types of clothes are great regardless of rain - it's not ideal to be in the situation of doing laundry in the evening and having to carry wet or damp clothes the next day because they didn't dry, especially because Portugal and Galicia are very damp.

 

[Suzanne H]

Walked this Camino in 2022 — The Wise app had a solid list of albergues. It also provides ‘off Camino’ routing options to get you off high-speed main roadways when necessary. From Lisbon to Tomar there is a lot of road walking and the paths are often paved as well. But the walk can be charming and is often near the river. I’m uncertain of the weather in January but it should be superior to walking in the heat of early September when I walked. Tomar to Coimbra is lovely and wooded. If not using the Wise app, Gronze provides good recommendations, and there’s always Booking or TripAdvisor or Google Maps as a back-up. It’s a quieter route so planning your days may be helpful to ensure there’s accommodations and food available at the stopping points of your choice. There can be days where there are few rest stops available, and even sections where plopping on the ground for a rest wasn’t the most comfortable. Because I wasn’t in the best shape (lots of ankle complaints), this made for long days for me. Most of my business transactions were done in English or aided by a Translate app. Not ideal, but I was grateful for their accommodation. Bom caminho!

 

[JimG59]

I walked the Camino Portuguese starting April in Lisbon. I enjoyed every single minute of it and had some great conversations with people on the way. I would never look back and think I should have started in Porto or anywhere else.

It was like two different Caminos. Lisbon to Porto was quiet, Porto onwards was very busy.

 

[JimG59]

As for clothing, maybe long sleeve technical Tee’s and an extra fleece. Other than that a normal “case”.

 

[Corned Beef]

As mentioned in post #1 have just been on the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Porto. It was not a pilgrimage (to SdC) but used the CP as the main part of the route up until Coimbre. Just adding some 2024 information for those who will be on this route soon.

Lisbon: Being fortunate enough to live in Europe, I've been able to experience many capital cities. Lisbon wouldn't be high on the list to return. The main issue for me is the sheer number of tourists (ironic) dumped into the centre by the cruise ships. The place is awash with Tuk-tuks stuck on street corners along with food delivery drivers waiting for the next call. It suffers from the same cruise ship success as Barcelona, Venice , Athens and Rome though Rome can accommodate the numbers.

Also on the way out of Lisbon is uninspiring and would strongly recommend getting the metro to Oriente station and starting at Parque das Nações. You'll avoid going through the tent city under the road underpassess and being stopped by street beggars asking for money (an unusual occurrence for me as I don't look approachable.)

Edit: Added pic of the No.28 tram from the inside (as recommended by @jungleboy below)

 

[jungleboy]

Sorry you didn't enjoy Lisbon. I lived there for nearly seven years until a few months ago and formed a more positive view of the city. For those interested, here is an article I wrote detailing what I think are the best aspects of Lisbon.

Lisbon Highlights - Spirit of the Camino

 

[Lleslie]

I have only visited Lisbon twice for a couple of days but love the vibe of this city with all it has to offer - see jungleboy's excellent article above. I would certainly visit again if I get the chance. Last May we started our Portuguese Camino from here and enjoyed the quietness of the streets at dawn passing by the Sè Cathedral and winding our way through the narrow streets to then follow the river park. A highlight of our first day was visiting the tile museum. We stopped at Parque das Nacoes and returned to our accommodation in Lisbon on the train, returning the next morning to continue on.
For us the journey embraces the good, the bad, the pretty and the ugly! Having read many negative comments about the first few days we didn't find the reality that bad

 

[Corned Beef]

Getting out of Lisbon: As you leave Lisbon behind you, you can see the Tagus bridge ahead. The bridge enters the Lisbon area at Sacavem where there is a rail station if you want to start here.

Previously the route turned left and inland at Sacavem along the banks of a tributary river flowing into the Tagus. However there is a shorter and better route along two sets of boardwalks. The first goes to Povoa and a little further on, beside a cafe, there is a second one that heads up to Alverca.

Note: At Alverca the route goes over the railway at the station there. The signs are there to route you but they face away from the south. A pilgrim in front of me missed it and was heading towards the airbase there. If you get to the airbase, you'll know you're nearly at the turn in the route.

 

[Corned Beef]

Once you get to Ambuja you are walking along the flat Tagus estuary. As there wasn't much to see, I opted to jump on the train to Santarem with the intention of taking the Tagus Way until Fatima. As it turned out, the train was not only going to Santarem but was continuing all the way to Tomar. I could still access Fatima from there as it was a shorter journey.

Tomar is a very pleasant town with its Templar history which you can see all around. @Elle Bieling has covered a lot of it in her blog here which makes an excellent summary of what you can see and do in the town. I opted for the castle but for some reason missed the half of the Convento de Cristo as the main entrance was closed. It appears afterwards the entrance was at the rear during renovations.

Tomar Portugal and the Convento de Cristo

Tomar, Portugal and its Convent of Christ, fortifications and aquaduct is a former Knights Templar castle that should not be missed.

www.pilgrimagetraveler.com

Make sure you set aside some time for Tomar.

 

[Corned Beef]

All roads lead to Fatima.

Having ended up in Tomar the next section was to Fatima. Again the @Elle Bieling guide and the reference to the Caminho Nascente came in handy. The route from Tomar starts at the castle and there is a cafe there if you want breakfast before you set off. Opens about 09:00. Also there is not much by way of cafe/shops on the route so take advantage of anywhere that is open that you see. Opening hours can be variable.

You'll pass the Convent's impressive aqueduct on the way but after that it's all countryside until you get closer to Fatima. At one point you can look down at the castle at Ourem (542) which you'll pass on the way from Fatima on Rota Carmelita.

Earlier travellers have suggested walking from Santarem to Fatima and taking a bus back to Tomar. As the route from Tomar is a 2000 ft climb over 20 miles. It makes more sense (in hindsight) to take the bus uphill to Fatima and walk back to the Camino Portuguese downhill.

 

[Corned Beef]

Fatima

Fatima is massive if I were to compare it to the Knock shrine in Ireland that I visited last year. There are a number of large conference style hotels in Fatima which are clearly needed. Even in late January there were a number of pilgrims visiting - including some of the Instagram pilgrims - but far too few to fill the spaces there.

 

[Corned Beef]

All roads lead to Fatima (Part 2)
Signposting for the Camino Portuguese is somewhat erratic when in the countryside with the yellow fleches pointing in geographically different directions even within the same village. There doesn't seem to be control or updating of the signs so it seemed less risky to follow the clear and frequent CdF signs. Coming from Fatima, I used the Rota Carmelita route to join the Portuguese at Coimbre.

https://caminhosdefatima.com/en/routes/rota-carmelita

Going north there is a worthwhile stop at Ourem with it's castle; accomodation at Freixianda; Roman ruins at Ansião and Condeixa-a-Nova. Had a slight issue with accomodation at Alvaiázere as Albergue O Bras was never showing availability and didn't reply to emails. Instead I opted for an AirBnB at Vendas (at the top of the hill) which proved to be an excellent place to rest, with a welcoming host, a great evening meal with company and a nutritious breakfast.

Was informed that the area around Alvaiázere did have some forest fires in the summer and you can see some of the clearing going on quite close to the road and other houses. Something to check if you are going through Portugal in summer.

 

[Corned Beef]

For the final section from Coimbra to Porto, I opted not to follow the Camino Portuguese and instead headed for the coast. The CP route goes through Albergaria-a-Velha and a lot of industrial towns up to Porto. Instead I headed for Aveiro and the Trilho das Areias - very much recommended if you love a coastal route.

Trilho das Areias - Senda Litoral

trilho-das-areias.webnode.page

Arrived in Aveiro in time for the Sunday flea market which had an interesting collection of pottery, a lot of silver and other bricolage. Set by the canal in Aveiro you can watch the traditional boats ferrying people up and down the canals there. The town is also a large port and once out of the port area you can take the ferry (€2.40) across the lagoon to Sao Jacinto.

Once across there is a straight road all the way up to Porto hugging the coast. There is a lot of similarity here with Florida with a number of winter sun seekers in their camper vans enjoying the warmth and the cafes. Also accomodation is much cheaper in winter as it is off season. On season it will be pricey.

Finally in Porto I stayed a couple of nights at the Sandeman hostel on the waterfront. It has a good atmosphere with mix of ages and the staff were great. If you are starting at Porto and want to get into the albergue vibe, then book here.

 

[Kirkie]

For the final section from Coimbra to Porto, I opted not to follow the Camino Portuguese and instead headed for the coast. The CP route goes through Albergaria-a-Velha and a lot of industrial towns up to Porto. Instead I headed for Aveiro and the Trilho das Areias - very much recommended if you love a coastal route.

Trilho das Areias - Senda Litoral

trilho-das-areias.webnode.page

Arrived in Aveiro in time for the Sunday flea market which had an interesting collection of pottery, a lot of silver and other bricolage. Set by the canal in Aveiro you can watch the traditional boats ferrying people up and down the canals there. The town is also a large port and once out of the port area you can take the ferry (€2.40) across the lagoon to Sao Jacinto.

Once across there is a straight road all the way up to Porto hugging the coast. There is a lot of similarity here with Florida with a number of winter sun seekers in their camper vans enjoying the warmth and the cafes. Also accomodation is much cheaper in winter as it is off season. On season it will be pricey.

Finally in Porto I stayed a couple of nights at the Sandeman hostel on the waterfront. It has a good atmosphere with mix of ages and the staff were great. If you are starting at Porto and want to get into the albergue vibe, then book here.

Congrats, or whatever fits the bill. Glad you reached your goal. Enjoy the rest that follows... and thanks for the reports.

 

[MilenaS]

Stayed at Sandeman last year when starting from Porto. I was amazed how a hostel could be soooo lively and full of energy during the day, and than be the quietest sleep I had on the Camino. It should not be possible...

 

[Lleslie]

We also stayed at the Sandeman last May - excellent location and very comfortable beds