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[QUOTE="Undermanager, post: 1254282, member: 46206"] Day 16 - Artieda to Undués de Lerda The very friendly and helpful albergue with wonderful attached restaurant in Artieda was excellent. I was in a 4 bed room with magnificent views and the sound of cuckoos cuckooing. Lunch when I arrived yesterday mid afternoon was a wonderful set meal, a green bean and walnut hot dish, followed by a chicken leg and a sort of Mexican bean side, a pineapple and coconut flan all washed down with beer, wine, water and coffee (no wonder I slept well for a few hours afterwards). In the evening, I had freshly made croquettes and more beer. It was just what was needed. Breakfast was excellent as well. Just remember your room number, as you need to get the food boxes with your room number on it from both the shelf and out of the fridge. There's bread, ham, cheese, coffee, cake, juice and fruit. There is actually a small kitchen / sitting area, which I didn't spot yesterday with microwave, kettle, toaster, fridge and washing machine. The total price for absolutely everything, including the albergue, beer, wine and all meals was €40, which must make it the best value by far, given the super quality of food served up. Definitely recommended for the food alone. It's the first place in Spain, however, where the shower was only luke warm. You had to be in and out pretty sharpish 😱, and (of course) the locks on the mens' bogs don't work. The floors are all wooden and the noise reverberates from different bedrooms so earplugs at the ready! But I'm being picky. It's olde worlde charm was great. I'm not sure where I'll end up today, but presumably either Undués de Lerda about 22kms away or Sangüesa 32kms away. It's a longer stage but Sangüesa would be my preferred option for food, getting some cash out of an ATM, maybe getting some new hiking shoes (mine have holes in the soles, which I never noticed before leaving) and to make the next stage to Monreal a bit easier. The body may have other ideas, though. We shall see. Whatever happens, it's a beautiful, cool, blue-sky day! Unlike yesterday, there is no head-on wind. The walk to Ruesta is fantastic. You walk alongside a reservoir and then mostly through a forest to the utterly fabulous Ruesta. If you get a chance, stay here! It's essentially a sprawling, ruined castle with a beautiful albergue in amongst the ruins in a rural ruined village setting - utterly unique. There's a cafe here, too, in a lovely setting, above the river and reservoir. The lovely hospitalera asked that you phone ahead a day or two if you want to stay and / or eat, so all your requirements and needs can be met. English is spoken. Could this be a Top 5 albergue in all the caminos over the years I've been on? I think the answer is a definite, 'Yes'. Adjust your plans and go out of your way to stay. You can thank me later! The forest walk continues from Ruesta for 6 or 7kms through the forest, but it's all up up up. You'll be mighty relieved when you burst out of the forest to find yourself on top of a fabulous high plain with massive views, and the only way is down! It is so beautiful and fresh up here. You can see for miles today. Not a single cloud. Glorious. Eventually, Undués de Lerda will come into view. It's another ridiculously pretty village on top of a frigging 'big' hill 😁. After battling to the top and following the arrows, there is the bar, in front of you like the Pearly Gates 😂. You check in at the bar for the albergue, plus it's the place to grab a beer con limon and a fabulous bocodillo. Do I stay or do I go? I stayed. It's a lovely day, about 2.00pm so I want to relax and enjoy it. Beer (with lemon) and a tuna bocodillo are ordered, and I check in. They are super friendly and helpful. They do loads of food in their restaurant so won't starve. I'll be eating at 8.00pm 😁. The albergue is another wonderful place, with all mod cons, basic kitchen, washer dryer, incredible shower rooms etc etc. The main thing, though - the views! They are extraordinary out of the bedroom door window as well as the three wetrooms (I'm the only one here at the moment). So comfy. Tomorrow - just looking at the Lumbier Gorge, wondering about a detour, maybe stay in Sangüesa, dump the rucksack and have a day out? Suggestions, maps, routes welcome ... Today has been an excellent day. [/QUOTE]
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