Dear Priscillian,
You raise an interesting question: finding theauthentic experience of the pilgrim.
Well, let me give you my two cents. I followed the Via de la Plata from Sevilla to Salamanca in March 2006, then completed the journey from Salamanca to SdeC (via Orense) in July 2007.
The first leg really was wonderful. There was an adequate range of albergues and other pilgrim support in most small towns. The Extremaduran Regional government has opened a string of hostel along the way and well as placing the oddest directional cubes (yes, cubes) in addition to the traditional yellow arrows.
But depopulation has left many villages deserted and the landscape empty, so there is much time for solitary reflection.Rarely were there more than 20 pilgrims in a hostel, but this lent itself to lengthy joyous chats and plenty of mutual support. [I can still remember Kim, a wonderful Catalan nurse, tending to my tattered feet....Greater love hath no man etc]
Over the 20 days of the first stage, I got to know some wonderful pilgrims who are still good friends. Rarely were there more than 20 pilgrims in a hostel.
And the thrill of arriving at a city after a week in the country. Zafra, Merida, Salamanca are all wonderful locations to explore.
Finally, it is the changing landscape and vegetation. From the orange trees in Seville, through the olives and vines to the wheat fields of Castille-Leon. And I have to mention the all too common Black pig.
So, V de la P gets my vote.
Kind regards
Gyro