Primitivo Input

lessonslearnedabroad · Jan 4, 2016

Hey folks!

I am set on my second Camino in April 2016 (I did the Camino France last year, from SJPP) and have been leaning toward the Portugues. BUT the more I read about the Primitivo the more I think I might like it instead. Sooo, I have some questions:

1) Can you camp on the Primitivo, either wild camping or on camp grounds?
2) Are there any good resources/guide books for the Primitivo?
3) Any thoughts on which Camino you prefer? I'm perfectly comfortable with solitude, and love nature and can handle any amount of difficult terrain. So, which was your fav?

Thanks!!

Anemone del Camino · Jan 4, 2016

Have not walked the Portugues but have heard many times that the bit from Lisbon to Porto is soso. Walked the Primitivo with the Cicerone guide and the Editorial Buen Camino guide and did just fine. Stats posted on the forum show that the Primitivo is not as travelled as the Portuguese, but it is not lonely. You will likely walk alone but will meet others at night. Many who walk it are hard core walkers, doing some 50km a day. Food is not what it is on the norte, but I didn't care. It's a lovely walk, with some lovely stops, if you take the time to stop.

lessonslearnedabroad · Jan 4, 2016

Yeah, I think I would do Porto-Santiago as I did also hear that Lisbon-Porto wasn't so beautiful.

I'm really looking for something scenic, something challenging, and unique

LauraK · Jan 4, 2016

If you want scenic...start on the Camino Del Salvador from Leon to Oviedo (4-5 days) with some beautiful views of mountains. Not as traveled so possibly lots of solitude. You can join the Primitivo in Oviedo. Depending on how many days you have available, you can walk to Santiago in 11-12 days or 8-9 days to Lugo on the Primitivo. I walked this route in October (17 days total) and found it challenging (significant elevation changes) and scenic (stunning views). I liked that there were lots of trails and less paved roads. I had a combination of solitude (Salvador) and social (Primitivo). The Salvador is unique...few pilgrims but increasing in popularity.

norelle · Jan 4, 2016

Hi - I've sent you a PM with my Primitivo notes!

Buen camino

Kiwi-family · Jan 4, 2016

I second what LauraK said - Salvador and Primitivo from Oviedo. Having done those routes (and the Baztan which was spectacular too) I found Porto to Santiago to be a scenic disappointment. It was good in other ways, but for scenic splendour there is just no comparison!

ebrandt · Jan 4, 2016

Hi Lessons -- I did a guide for the Primitivo that is posteds is in the Resources section of the site. Its current as of last June. If you message me, I can send it to you in word so you can tweak and revise. We walked with a French guy who sometimes camped. There wan't much organized but sometimes churches let him camp in the church yard. The only thing I would add is that April is early in the year on the Primitivo if there is lots of snow so make sure you are following the weather..... Liz

lessonslearnedabroad · Jan 4, 2016

Yeah, I think while the Primitivo/Salvador would be more what I'm looking for I am presently planning a late-April/early-May walk and the Portugues would offer better weather for that time. Plus, I've never been to Portugal

peregrina2000 · Jan 4, 2016

lessonslearnedabroad said:
Yeah, I think while the Primitivo/Salvador would be more what I'm looking for I am presently planning a late-April/early-May walk and the Portugues would offer better weather for that time. Plus, I've never been to Portugal

I have walked both the Primitivo/Salvador and the Portugués from Lisbon and it is true that in terms of mountains, the Salvador wins hands down. It is beautiful. And there's a lot more elevation as well, the Portugués has few mountains or hills.

BUT... the Portugués has a lot of supporters as well. I know it's a perennial debate over the part from Lisbon to Porto; some think it's blah and boring, others really loved it. Check out maggie's blog http://magwood.me/camino-portuguese/ for one positive experience, and these opinions too: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/why-start-in-lisbon.29651/

I've got a ton of pictures from my walk from Lisbon to Porto, you can decide yourself! https://picasaweb.google.com/104105...tuguesFromLisbon?authkey=Gv1sRgCNq6p72psbzYFw

And if you are feeling adventurous, why not try the Caminho Portugués Interior, which goes from Viseu to Santiago through Chaves and Verín? More ups and downs, it goes through the wonderful Douro Valley, and would be off the beaten path! You would turn off the main Camino Portugués at Coimbra. The forum has a subsection: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/forums/camino-portugues-interior-route.163/

purplesage · Jan 4, 2016

LauraK said:
If you want scenic...start on the Camino Del Salvador from Leon to Oviedo (4-5 days) with some beautiful views of mountains. Not as traveled so possibly lots of solitude. You can join the Primitivo in Oviedo. Depending on how many days you have available, you can walk to Santiago in 11-12 days or 8-9 days to Lugo on the Primitivo. I walked this route in October (17 days total) and found it challenging (significant elevation changes) and scenic (stunning views). I liked that there were lots of trails and less paved roads. I had a combination of solitude (Salvador) and social (Primitivo). The Salvador is unique...few pilgrims but increasing in popularity.

@LauraK.... this sounds fantastic. Is there a pilgrim "office" of some sort in Oviedo? Am not big into commercial "walking guides" and prefer something from the likes of Galicia tourist office or something close to that. Thank you for posting

fraluchi · Jan 5, 2016

On the Camino del Salvador, Radio Buen Camino had published some interesting videos:

Anemone del Camino · Jan 5, 2016

purplesage said:
@LauraK.... this sounds fantastic. Is there a pilgrim "office" of some sort in Oviedo? Am not big into commercial "walking guides" and prefer something from the likes of Galicia tourist office or something close to that. Thank you for posting

No "pilgrim office" in Oviedo, you simply start at the cathedral. As you exit the cathedeal turn right and walk along the raised gardens for 30 meters or so. You will see a metal plaque on the ground with arrows pointing in 2 directions: one to continue on the norte, the other sends you onto the Primitivo.

If you have walked the Salvador that is where you pick up your "salavadorena", your certificate for that stretch.

Now, if history and architecture are up your alley you may want a detour from the start and visit the monumemts on the Naranco hill, behind the train station. It's a steep hike to get up there, you can also take a bus (can't recall, is it 10 or 1A?) which you can catch on the main drag, calle Uria. From there can start walking to Esclampero: follow the road the bus was on past the Naranco sites parking lot, and voila!

purplesage · Jan 5, 2016

Anemone del Camino said:
No "pilgrim office" in Oviedo, you simply start at the cathedral. As you exit the cathedeal turn right and walk along the raised gardens for 30 meters or so. You will see a metal plaque on the ground with arrows pointing in 2 directions: one to continue on the norte, the other sends you onto the Primitivo.

If you have walked the Salvador that is where you pick up your "salavadorena", your certificate for that stretch.

Now, if history and architecture are up your alley you may want a detour from the start and visit the monumemts on the Naranco hill, behind the train station. It's a steep hike to get up there, you can also take a bus (can't recall, is it 10 or 1A?) which you can catch on the main drag, calle Uria. From there can start walking to Esclampero: follow the road the bus was on past the Naranco sites parking lot, and voila!

Muchas Gracias perigrino

Al the optimist · Jan 5, 2016

I echo what has already been said about the outstanding beauty of the El Salvador. Maybe it is worth noting that in Poladura de la Tercia on May 31st last year I met Ender (the guy organising the volunteers that mark the way) who asked me if the snow had melted as it had been there days before. Maybe that is why it had been so boggey on the way over from La Robla? Whatever you choose I am sure you are in for a treat. I am looking to finish this year's spring Camino with the Salvador again and this time the Primitivo (for the first time as I had to stop 2 years ago after an injury on the Salvador). I expect to be doing these parts of my walk towards the end of June and into early July. So Buen Camino and I look forward to your postings.

Al the optimist · Jan 5, 2016

fraluchi said:
On the Camino del Salvador, Radio Buen Camino had published some interesting videos:

Thanks Fraluchi

angelafinnigan · Jan 14, 2016

norelle said:
Hi - I've sent you a PM with my Primitivo notes!

Buen camino

Hi Norelle,
Wondering if you can send me your Primitivo notes also. I'm hoping to finish he Norte this year via the Primitivo. I'm still in Fremantle and I'll contact you when I get to Sydney. X

norelle · Jan 14, 2016

angelafinnigan said:
Hi Norelle,
Wondering if you can send me your Primitivo notes also. I'm hoping to finish he Norte this year via the Primitivo. I'm still in Fremantle and I'll contact you when I get to Sydney. X

Hi Angela
Certainly! I sent you a PM.
See you soon

KariannNor · Tuesday at 3:12 PM

Thanks to those of you who have wished me Buen Camino pm! My plan was Salvador/Prim, but 1) cold feet because of a knee (old injury) and 2) would have to rush with no possibilty of short/rest...

Viva Terlingua · Thursday at 4:20 AM

We are arriving in Madrid on May 5th. I went online today to purchase train tickets to Oviedo and it doesn't show any train service. Does that mean the trains are sold out? Or maybe some other...

Kam Wong · 2024-05-03T14:29:08+0200

Hi, has anyone walked the Primitivo in mid-October? What was it like? Weather, tracks and accommodation? I plan to walk from Oviedo to Lugo only, then bus to Santiago after. Thanks for your input.

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