Primitivo or coastal Portugal

richngail · Mar 16, 2022

Good day!
My wife and I are considering a 2-week Camino trip in September to walk either the Primitivo or coastal Portugal route.
If possible, we'd like to hear from those who've walked both routes and indicate which one they'd recommend and why.
Much thanks for your assistance!

Peregrina 2013 · Mar 16, 2022

The Primitivo is about 320 km and can be done in 13 stages or more Depending on whether you are interested in receiving a Compostela, you certainly could move ahead using public transportation and ensure that you do walk the last 100 kilometers. The Primitivo is absolutely gorgeous and there is so much to take in and enjoy along the way. I've walked this section twice and would do it again if there weren't so many other Caminos that I want to walk! I would highly recommend Camino Primitivo.

With that said, in March of 2019 I also walked the coastal Camino Portugués from Porto in 13 days and had incredibly glorious weather and loved every bit of it! You could shorten the length based on your schedule and if interested in receiving a Compostela ensure you do the last 100km (all in Spain) starting from Tui. I would do the coastal Camino Portugués again in a heartbeat!

The culture, the people, the history and the local cuisine are what make the Camino such an extraordinary journey. Whichever one you choose will be the right one and no doubt you will have an amazing experience!

Buen Camino!

Tincatinker · Mar 16, 2022

Welcome to the forum.
That’s a cracker of a question! Do you prefer chalk or cheese? I can’t quickly think of two Camino that are so distinctly different. Though arguably the Camino Frances and Via de la Plata are a bit cruise ship/canoe.
Some idea of your hiking capacities & experience and your inclinations towards accommodation, terrain and general sense of adventure might help inform responses.
I would always choose the Primitivo. I love the mountains, the forests, the history, the challenges and the food. I’m not bothered by the rain, the mud or the final sudden collision with the Camino Frances ( virtually avoidable with a bit of planning).
Gi’s a clue…

richngail · Mar 16, 2022

Peregrina 2013 said:
The Primitivo is about 320 km and can be done in 13 stages or more Depending on whether you are interested in receiving a Compostela, you certainly could move ahead using public transportation and ensure that you do walk the last 100 kilometers. The Primitivo is absolutely gorgeous and there is so much to take in and enjoy along the way. I've walked this section twice and would do it again if there weren't so many other Caminos that I want to walk! I would highly recommend Camino Primitivo.

With that said, in March of 2019 I also walked the coastal Camino Portugués from Porto in 13 days and had incredibly glorious weather and loved every bit of it! You could shorten the length based on your schedule and if interested in receiving a Compostela ensure you do the last 100km (all in Spain) starting from Tui. I would do the coastal Camino Portugués again in a heartbeat!

The culture, the people, the history and the local cuisine are what make the Camino such an extraordinary journey. Whichever one you choose will be the right one and no doubt you will have an amazing experience!

Buen Camino!

This is wonderful information -- thank you. And thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed explanation. We're looking forward to our next Camino adventure, whatever it may be. Again, thank you.

richngail · Mar 16, 2022

Tincatinker said:
Welcome to the forum.
That’s a cracker of a question! Do you prefer chalk or cheese? I can’t quickly think of two Camino that are so distinctly different. Though arguably the Camino Frances and Via de la Plata are a bit cruise ship/canoe.
Some idea of your hiking capacities & experience and your inclinations towards accommodation, terrain and general sense of adventure might help inform responses.
I would always choose the Primitivo. I love the mountains, the forests, the history, the challenges and the food. I’m not bothered by the rain, the mud or the final sudden collision with the Camino Frances ( virtually avoidable with a bit of planning).
Gi’s a clue…

Tincatinker: thank you so much for your reply. Your suggestion in your "Some ideas..." sentence has much merit and is making me consider tweaking my post. Again, thank you for your reply.

Peregrina 2013 · Mar 16, 2022

Tincatinker said:
the final sudden collision with the Camino Frances ( virtually avoidable with a bit of planning).

Tincatinker, like you I don't mind rain, mud, mountains - difficult terrain, etc. but my first time on the Primitivo that final sudden collision with the CF was such a shock, and an interruption to my solitary and quiet walking. Just recently, here on the Forum I learned about an option to have one more contemplative and solitary day from Lugo to Sobrado dos Monxes - which then joins the CF in Arzúa and only a day from Santiago de Compostela. Wish I'd known that sooner, perhaps I'll try that some other time

Tincatinker · Mar 16, 2022

Peregrina 2013 said:
Tincatinker, like you I don't mind rain, mud, mountains - difficult terrain, etc. but my first time on the Primitivo that final sudden collision with the CF was such a shock, and an interruption to my solitary and quiet walking. Just recently, here on the Forum I learned about an option to have one more contemplative and solitary day from Lugo to Sobrado dos Monxes - which then joins the CF in Arzúa and only a day from Santiago de Compostela. Wish I'd known that sooner, perhaps I'll try that some other time

I wouldn’t try that shift in one day. 50km is beyond my old bones but a night in Friol gives room for the diversion to the Mithraic temple at Boveda and a kindly hosted night in the hostal. “The restaurant is closed. What would you like to eat?”

Peregrina 2013 · Mar 16, 2022

Tincatinker said:
I wouldn’t try that shift in one day. 50km is beyond my old bones but a night in Friol gives room for the diversion to the Mithraic temple at Boveda and a kindly hosted night in the hostal. “The restaurant is closed. What would you like to eat?”

Neither would I! 50 km in a day don't leave much time at the end of the day. I love having afternoons to explore, enjoy the local cuisine and talk to people. I just looked for information on the Mithraic ancient temple you mention, it looks so unassuming from the outside! It's really quite a unique 3rd Century Roman sanctuary with all those frescoes so well preserved. Definitely a place to not be missed if you're going that route!

jrviegas · Mar 17, 2022

Peregrina 2013 said:
The Primitivo is about 320 km and can be done in 13 stages or more Depending on whether you are interested in receiving a Compostela, you certainly could move ahead using public transportation and ensure that you do walk the last 100 kilometers. The Primitivo is absolutely gorgeous and there is so much to take in and enjoy along the way. I've walked this section twice and would do it again if there weren't so many other Caminos that I want to walk! I would highly recommend Camino Primitivo.

With that said, in March of 2019 I also walked the coastal Camino Portugués from Porto in 13 days and had incredibly glorious weather and loved every bit of it! You could shorten the length based on your schedule and if interested in receiving a Compostela ensure you do the last 100km (all in Spain) starting from Tui. I would do the coastal Camino Portugués again in a heartbeat!

The culture, the people, the history and the local cuisine are what make the Camino such an extraordinary journey. Whichever one you choose will be the right one and no doubt you will have an amazing experience!

Buen Camino!

Many thanks for that information. My wife and I are planning to do the coastal or primitivo Camino Portugués in October this year. This will be our first camino and we are thinking of starting from Tui and maybe doing it in shorter stages of 10 to 15 km a day. Any suggestions on stops?

simoneva · Mar 17, 2022

Either would be interesting. I would pick Primitivo as I like hills. Also the albergues are definitely open whereas on the Portuguese coastal many are currently closed (at least that was the situation in October - may have changed).

bupton_ivar · Mar 17, 2022

I walked the Primativo in 2019 and a coastal/central mixed Camino Portuguese from Porto September 2021. The Primativo is the more difficult and historic route, with the nod going to the Portuguese for pilgrims that prefer a less hilly route. Both are excellent.

richngail · Mar 17, 2022

simoneva said:
Either would be interesting. I would pick Primitivo as I like hills. Also the albergues are definitely open whereas on the Portuguese coastal many are currently closed (at least that was the situation in October - may have changed).

Thank you for this information -- much appreciated.

Peregrina 2013 · Mar 17, 2022

jrviegas said:
Many thanks for that information. My wife and I are planning to do the coastal or primitivo Camino Portugués in October this year. This will be our first camino and we are thinking of starting from Tui and maybe doing it in shorter stages of 10 to 15 km a day. Any suggestions on stops?

jrviegas, I did the coastal alternate route so I didn't walk from Tui - which is to the west, and eventually both caminos meet in Redondela. I have an attachment with distances and services on the Camino Portugués - the coastal route. Maybe it could help you with your planning based on what services are available along the way?

I, too, having done it twice, highly recommend the Camino Primitivo. Whichever camino you choose, it will be and unforgettable journey!

Buen Camino!

jrviegas · Mar 17, 2022

Peregrina 2013 said:
jrviegas,
I did the coastal alternate route so I didn't walk from Tui - which is to the west, and eventually both caminos meet in Redondela. I have an attachment with distances and services available along the Camino Portugués - the coastal route. Maybe it could help you with your planning?

Wow! That will definitely help.
Muchas gracias

Hans-Georg Goebel · Mar 18, 2022

richngail said:
Good day!
My wife and I are considering a 2-week Camino trip in September to walk either the Primitivo or coastal Portugal route.
If possible, we'd like to hear from those who've walked both routes and indicate which one they'd recommend and why.
Much thanks for your assistance!

You absolutely cannot equate the two paths. The path along the coast is easy as pie, while the Primitivo is probably one of the most demanding paths, with many metres of altitude and sometimes longer stages, and requires a good level of fitness.

richngail · Mar 18, 2022

bupton_ivar said:
I walked the Primativo in 2019 and a coastal/central mixed Camino Portuguese from Porto September 2021. The Primativo is the more difficult and historic route, with the nod going to the Portuguese for pilgrims that prefer a less hilly route. Both are excellent.

Thank you for your reply -- I appreciate it.

richngail · Mar 18, 2022

Hans-Georg Goebel said:
You absolutely cannot equate the two paths. The path along the coast is easy as pie, while the Primitivo is probably one of the most demanding paths, with many metres of altitude and sometimes longer stages, and requires a good level of fitness.

Great information -- thank you. Much to consider!

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