SJPP to Roncesvalles. The Dangerous Fork? Tipperary to Santiago Day 75

Kevin Considine · Jul 29, 2018

Arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) on Thursday but Friday morning it was foggy and rainy. Why not take a rest day. So today, Saturday, I left at 6:09 from SJPP and walked through the empty Citadelle street enjoying the near full moon above. And there were fewer people around than the 2 previous Caminos I’ve walked on Frances. The skies are clear and there is a breeze so it turns into a wonderful day to walk meeting fellow peregrinos from all over the world; Italy, France, Spain, South Korea, Australia, The Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, and Portugal. So good to be back. Towards the end I walked with Diogo from Portugal and we stopped and had some fruit at the snack truck on top. We then came to the fork going down to Roncesvalles where the Pilgrims Office tells you not to go to the left that it is very dangerous. He being a 24 year old sergeant in the Portuguese Army says “Lets take the dangerous way.” I shrug and laugh replying “Porque No” (why not). We arrive early 12:30 in Roncesvalles to the abbey and I think Diogo was a bit disappointed that the downhill was not more dangerous. I was ok with that. Ultreia!

nycwalking · Jul 29, 2018

Oh my!

I am thoroughly enjoying your pilgrimage.

Buen camino you.

Rj7797 · Jul 29, 2018

I took this path last year and didn't think it was all that bad. I remember the long descent into Molinaseca being way more painful later on in the trip.

roamingpaddy · Jul 29, 2018

Kevin considine said:
Arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) on Thursday but Friday morning it was foggy and rainy. Why not take a rest day. So today, Saturday, I left at 6:09 from SJPP and walked through the empty Citadelle street enjoying the near full moon above. And there were fewer people around than the 2 previous Caminos I’ve walked on Frances. The skies are clear and there is a breeze so it turns into a wonderful day to walk meeting fellow peregrinos from all over the world; Italy, France, Spain, South Korea, Australia, The Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, and Portugal. So good to be back. Towards the end I walked with Diogo from Portugal and we stopped and had some fruit at the snack truck on top. We then came to the fork going down to Roncesvalles where the Pilgrims Office tells you not to go to the left that it is very dangerous. He being a 24 year old sergeant in the Portuguese Army says “Lets take the dangerous way.” I shrug and laugh replying “Porque No” (why not). We arrive early 12:30 in Roncesvalles to the abbey and I think Diogo was a bit disappointed that the downhill was not more dangerous. I was ok with that. Ultreia!
View attachment 44943

Wishing you a buan camino a chara,I will be there in October

rappahannock_rev · Jul 30, 2018

How I wish I was there with you!

(And I absolutely loved the dangerous way!)

Kanga · Jul 30, 2018

Yes, the “dangerous” way is OK unless it is wet. Particularly with a heavy covering of leaf litter. Then it can be very, very slippery.

judy jackstadt · Jul 31, 2018

I’m so confused. We went right because that was the advised way. It was through the woods, very steep and full of slippery leaves. When we got to Roncesvalles, people told us that we should have gone left (on the road?) because it was less strenuous. Not many people went the way we did. So which is better?

SLOChick · Jul 31, 2018

Please clarify ... which way is the safest and less slippery/steep ? Right or left? Thank you

Deleted member 67185 · Jul 31, 2018

SLOChick said:
Please clarify ... which way is the safest and less slippery/steep ? Right or left? Thank you

It is the one to the right.

SLOChick · Jul 31, 2018

Thank you davebugg.

Deleted member 67185 · Jul 31, 2018

SLOChick said:
Thank you davebugg.

When you reach the area at Col de Lepoeder where you will start downhill to Roncesvalles, you will want to follow the markers to the road crossing into the woods and continue following the markers until you reach Roncesvalles in 4 kilometres.

Kevin Considine · Aug 1, 2018

judy jackstadt said:
I’m so confused. We went right because that was the advised way. It was through the woods, very steep and full of slippery leaves. When we got to Roncesvalles, people told us that we should have gone left (on the road?) because it was less strenuous. Not many people went the way we did. So which is better?

I think you may be confused Judy. I have done both ways. To the left is the steep through the woods route and to the right is the winding not steep way with little shade.

Deleted member 67185 · Aug 1, 2018

I think that part of the confusion on taking the "Right" or "Left" has to do with the place where pilgrims can begin their descent into Roncesvalles.

As you begin to head downhill off of the Col de Lepoeder, There is a concrete marker/post that has the red and white striped GR marking on it, and a well worn trail that is alongside that marker headed downhill. Here are Google Map pictures to show this:

This shows the road that will be the less steep and potentially slippery choice. The Camino is the dirt path to the right and you will walk onto the roadway to continue downhill.
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.026...4!1s80MV4HxNY0eXQ4WprTofpQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

https://www.google.com/maps/@43.026...4!1szNy_idSIAKJV77KTebNbsw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

That is where you make the decision on which path to take downhill. You can continue to follow the road, which is why some say to choose "Left". However.... if you take the GR path down a short way, you will again come to the road, saving a bit of walking.
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.025...4!1snNyS2Ux8LZz6RoR1Y7kSCg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

In the Maps picture, you can see on the right -- where the red-jacketed person is -- the GR shortcut as it re-connects with the road down to Roncesvalles. To the left of the road, you can see the steeper trail to Roncesvalles. This is what folks refer to when they say to take the "right" in order to walk the less steep road downhill. But, back up at the Col de Loeper you can also see how being told to "take the left" -- in order to take that road -- are also correct if one doesn't use the short stretch of GR trail to take a shortcut to the road further down.

It all depends on where the direction giver is referencing the starting point. For me, it is after the GR Trail shortcut. For some others, it is prior to the GR Trail shortcut.

judy jackstadt · Aug 1, 2018

davebugg said:
I think that part of the confusion on taking the "Right" or "Left" has to do with the place where pilgrims can begin their descent into Roncesvalles.

As you begin to head downhill off of the Col de Lepoeder, There is a concrete marker/post that has the red and white striped GR marking on it, and a well worn trail that is alongside that marker headed downhill. Here are Google Map pictures to show this:

This shows the road that will be the less steep and potentially slippery choice. The Camino is the dirt path to the right and you will walk onto the roadway to continue downhill.
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.026...4!1s80MV4HxNY0eXQ4WprTofpQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

https://www.google.com/maps/@43.026...4!1szNy_idSIAKJV77KTebNbsw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

That is where you make the decision on which path to take downhill. You can continue to follow the road, which is why some say to choose "Left". However.... if you take the GR path down a short way, you will again come to the road, saving a bit of walking with this shortcut.
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.025...4!1snNyS2Ux8LZz6RoR1Y7kSCg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

This is what folks refer to as taking the "right" in order to walk the road downhill. Continue down a bit further, and you connect with the trail to Roncesvalles. Since both routes parallel each other for a bit as you begin downhill, the trail is to the "left" of the road.

Ok. Thank you Dave. I think we started our descent too soon. We went down to the right through a park type setting somewhere before this fork. Thanks for the good visual link. We’ll get it right in 2019!

Aysen Mustafa · Aug 7, 2018

I took the dangerous way as well, because there was no one else around and the yellow arrows pointed down. I considered taking the road but my pack was carried forward and I had hiking poles. I went down slowly with no problems other than wet shoes, and they were already wet as it had rained all day. However, at Roncesvalles and Pamplona I noticed a lot of other pilgrims with knee braces and bruises, who had slipped.

Aysen Mustafa · Aug 7, 2018

davebugg said:
I think that part of the confusion on taking the "Right" or "Left" has to do with the place where pilgrims can begin their descent into Roncesvalles.

As you begin to head downhill off of the Col de Lepoeder, There is a concrete marker/post that has the red and white striped GR marking on it, and a well worn trail that is alongside that marker headed downhill. Here are Google Map pictures to show this:

This shows the road that will be the less steep and potentially slippery choice. The Camino is the dirt path to the right and you will walk onto the roadway to continue downhill.
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.026...4!1s80MV4HxNY0eXQ4WprTofpQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

https://www.google.com/maps/@43.026...4!1szNy_idSIAKJV77KTebNbsw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

That is where you make the decision on which path to take downhill. You can continue to follow the road, which is why some say to choose "Left". However.... if you take the GR path down a short way, you will again come to the road, saving a bit of walking.
https://www.google.com/maps/@43.025...4!1snNyS2Ux8LZz6RoR1Y7kSCg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

In the Maps picture, you can see on the right -- where the red-jacketed person is -- the GR shortcut as it re-connects with the road down to Roncesvalles. To the left of the road, you can see the steeper trail to Roncesvalles. This is what folks refer to when they say to take the "right" in order to walk the less steep road downhill. But, back up at the Col de Loeper you can also see how being told to "take the left" -- in order to take that road -- are also correct if one doesn't use the short stretch of GR trail to take a shortcut to the road further down.

It all depends on where the direction giver is referencing the starting point. For me, it is after the GR Trail shortcut. For some others, it is prior to the GR Trail shortcut.

I recall seeing yellow arrows which I can't see in your pics.

Deleted member 67185 · Aug 7, 2018

Aysen Mustafa said:
I recall seeing yellow arrows which I can't see in your pics.

There are yellow arrows, but the Google maps image isn't very detailed. This Google Map capture does a bit better job. You can see another post with the yellow arrow next to the GR marker.

https://www.google.com/maps/@43.026...4!1srn4dsTzs3XXo3JrHTELkEw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

https://www.google.com/maps/@43.026...4!1szNy_idSIAKJV77KTebNbsw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

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