Hi...l'm on it now.... currently at Santarem after 3 days walking. Because of the issues over accommodation I took the train to Castanheira station (2.8 euros) and walked from there to Azambuja where I stayed at the Albergue (can't book ahead here)...basic but fine and with a very helpful hospitalero. Next, a short day, I stopped at Valada and overnighted at Dois Caminhos with wonderful hospitalero Enrico. Today, approx 20 km I am at a small Pension, Coimbra...nothing special but fine for tonight. I have needed to phone ahead to book places as some of these hostels are small and fill up quickly, but have got the next few days sorted with no stage more than approx 22 km. All of the people who answered the phone spoke reasonable English such that I could book a bed ahead of time ( not paying until there). The walking is pleasant, not amazingly remarkable but the Riverside ( plus bar) at Valada was a delight last night in the evening sunshine....Hope that helps you decide how to plan. Now off to find a restaurant...there look some good ones not far away! Bom Caminho!