Starting point from Lisbon?

Rossco · Aug 7, 2017

I'm starting the Camino from Lisbon on August 29 and I would like some recommendations on my starting point. I have read that some pilgrims catch the metro or bus and start from the city outskirts instead of the Cathedral.

peregrina2000 · Aug 7, 2017

Rossco said:
I'm starting the Camino from Lisbon on August 29 and I would like some recommendations on my starting point. I have read that some pilgrims catch the metro or bus and start from the city outskirts instead of the Cathedral.

Hi, Rossco,
I know that some people do take the metro or a bus or even a commuter train to start further away, but you will never hear that recommendation coming out of my mouth. It's totally up to you, of course, but the 20 km from the Cathedral to the lovely Alpriate albergue are really pretty interesting. First, you walk through the old moorish district, the Alfama, then past the old port and the tile museum, next to the Expo park along the river, under the amazing Vasco de Gama bridge, and then along a channel (admittedly not the nicest scenery Lisbon has to offer). If you are going to spend the night at the albergue in Alpriate, it doesn't make sense to cut this day short since it's already a very manageable 20. But if you wanted to sleep in and then just get close, you could go to Sacavem or someplace like that.

It'd be good to hear what more recent pilgrims from Lisboa say about this first stage, because my feeling is that a lot of the complaints had to do with the way the arrows used to take you. But I could be wrong about that, so maybe someone will fill us in.

I've added some of my pictures from that first stage from my 2008 caminho from Lisboa. Bom caminho, Laurie

Rossco · Aug 7, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, Rossco,
I know that some people do take the metro or a bus or even a commuter train to start further away, but you will never hear that recommendation coming out of my mouth. It's totally up to you, of course, but the 20 km from the Cathedral to the lovely Alpriate albergue are really pretty interesting. First, you walk through the old moorish district, the Alfama, then past the old port and the tile museum, next to the Expo park along the river, under the amazing Vasco de Gama bridge, and then along a channel (admittedly not the nicest scenery Lisbon has to offer). If you are going to spend the night at the albergue in Alpriate, it doesn't make sense to cut this day short since it's already a very manageable 20. But if you wanted to sleep in and then just get close, you could go to Sacavem or someplace like that.

It'd be good to hear what more recent pilgrims from Lisboa say about this first stage, because my feeling is that a lot of the complaints had to do with the way the arrows used to take you. But I could be wrong about that, so maybe someone will fill us in.

I've added some of my pictures from that first stage from my 2008 caminho from Lisboa. Bom caminho, Laurie

Thanks Laurie.

Helen1 · Aug 8, 2017

Totally agree with peregrina2000. I would start at the Cathedral. The walk to the tile factory is historic and interesting, then there's a bit along a road which is docks/factories (but interesting in it's own way) and then you're into the new development and the bridge (this area is in most of the guidebooks as a place to visit). Sacavem onward is along a channel, it's not all that bad in the sun/dry weather (should imagine it's miserable in the wet), it's not the nicest walk ever and I felt a bit unsafe/lonely here but I think that was more me worrying than any real danger. Once the channel ends there's a bit of road walking and you head across some fields. (Some photos attached of the bridge/channel part)

I may be biased, I don't really get why people take buses to avoid urban areas on a pilgrimage. Personally, I found the days spent walking in blistering heat along dusty gravel roads, with no shade and only maize hedges/tomato fields/railway lines to look at much more challenging!

hel&scott · Aug 8, 2017

The cathedral for sure. I'll never forget the look on the cathedral guards face when we turned up for our final stamp. We walked the Portuguse route in winter and we went from North to South in an attempt to stay ahead of the rain, it didn't work we got soaked. But it was worth it just to see the pleasure it gave to the old guard who fussed about and made sure he stamped our map credential with great revererance, he was really taken with the fact that we had chose to make our pilgrimage to his church, I am sure he'd be just as delighted to stamp the start of yours.

Rossco · Aug 8, 2017

hel&scott said:
The cathedral for sure. I'll never forget the look on the cathedral guards face when we turned up for our final stamp. We walked the Portuguse route in winter and we went from North to South in an attempt to stay ahead of the rain, it didn't work we got soaked. But it was worth it just to see the pleasure it gave to the old guard who fussed about and made sure he stamped our map credential with great revererance, he was really taken with the fact that we had chose to make our pilgrimage to his church, I am sure he'd be just as delighted to stamp the start of yours.

Thanks hel&scott. I'll be starting from the cathedral.

jsalt · Aug 8, 2017

Rossco said:
I have read that some pilgrims catch the metro or bus and start from the city outskirts instead of the Cathedral.

Hi, that sounds like Porto, not Lisbon.

I would not recommend taking the metro out of either of the two cities.

The only section I had problems with, the first time I walked from Lisbon, was after crossing the N-10 after Sacavém (about 13kms from the cathedral), and crossing the fields between a small river and old quinta ruins.

It had been raining, the mud was ankle deep, and there was no way to get off the path. It was so horrendous that I phoned a friend, a day behind me, suggesting she get the train from Sacavém to Alverca (there was no albergue in Alpriarte then).

BUT, the next time I walked, it was mid-summer, the land was scorched, and the path was lovely – except for the cross-country cyclists that I had to keep stepping aside for! However, being all Portuguese , they slowed down, without exception, and were extremely polite .
Jill

Coleen Clark · Aug 8, 2017

Well my granddaughter and I will start from the Cathedral. Especially after Peregrina and Helen's photos! That's on Aug 11, my flight leaves in 22 hours 40 minutes (but I'm not counting) and I want to see and experience every foot of this Camino.

peregrina2000 · Aug 8, 2017

Hi, Coleen,
Wishing you a wonderful caminho with your granddaughter. And as, jsalt pointed out to you in another thread, the first day's stop (the albergue with the yarn bombing outside, done by the village women as you might have guessed) is Alpriate not Azambuja. But that's not the end of the A-words, there is also Alverca, Azinhaga, and Alviaizere to deal with!

Coleen Clark · Aug 8, 2017

peregrina2000 said:
Hi, Coleen,
Wishing you a wonderful caminho with your granddaughter. And as, jsalt pointed out to you in another thread, the first day's stop (the albergue with the yarn bombing outside, done by the village women as you might have guessed) is Alpriate not Azambuja. But that's not the end of the A-words, there is also Alverca, Azinhaga, and Alviaizere to deal with!

Oh my goodness! Well then, I will give my Brierleys to Meg and let her do the navigating. Seems to me I've got us lost already, and I'm still on another continent!

Davie Blisters · Aug 8, 2017

Rossco said:
I'm starting the Camino from Lisbon on August 29 and I would like some recommendations on my starting point. I have read that some pilgrims catch the metro or bus and start from the city outskirts instead of the Cathedral.

I used the Metro to get out of Lisboa in June - but that was to escape a mad Priest and his accompanying Handmaiden (but that's another story)

When I go again I will walk the whole way - but be a bit easier with myself on the mileage, particularly on day one!

Here's a pic of the first arrow on Lisboa Cathedral.

Bom Caminho

cathy uyede · Aug 8, 2017

Rossco said:
I'm starting the Camino from Lisbon on August 29 and I would like some recommendations on my starting point. I have read that some pilgrims catch the metro or bus and start from the city outskirts instead of the Cathedral.

Hi, our itinerary starts on the same day! We will start at the Cathedral and go all the way to Santiago and then to Finisterre! Hope we get to meet at the beginning! Bom Caminho

Rossco · Aug 8, 2017

cathy uyede said:
Hi, our itinerary starts on the same day! We will start at the Cathedral and go all the way to Santiago and then to Finisterre! Hope we get to meet at the beginning! Bom Caminho

I'm sure our paths will cross.

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