A 1948 pilgrimage

Mar 18, 2012
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European Union
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To Santiago + back
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I came across the name of Dominique Paladilhe who walked in 1948, at the age of 27, from Saintes in France via Ostabat, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Roncevaux, Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, Sahagun, and Leon to Santiago. I read only a few pages so far. He describes how he walks from Saint Michel near SJPdP to the top of the mountain where the remains of the former castle Château Pignon are located (many of us are not aware of it when we walk past) and then he remarks that he is close to the Spanish border which he is not allowed to cross here. He walks down to SJPdP again and takes the Valcarlos road because obligations for crossing national borders (formalités douanières) require him to take this road. 1948, long before the Schengen area. We don't know as much as we think about those in whose footsteps we walk ;).

Edited to add the following information: M Paladilhe's account of his pilgrimage is out of print but a pdf version is available on a local museum site:
 
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mla1

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Apr 22, 2013
681
1,239
Canada
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CF (2000); St. Giles (2013); Le Puy-SJPP (2015); VDLP (2016); Mozárabe, Almeria to Granada (2018)
The link which you give appears to be for all M.Paladilhe's publications and not for a pdf version of his pilgrimage. It would be a true pleasure to access and read that pdf.

There is a link to a pdf - just scroll all the way down to underneath the image of the book's cover. I just downloaded the pdf and it is fine. Wonderful resource.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

MinaKamina

Eclipsigrina ~ August 12, 2026
Nov 5, 2015
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3,416
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Jacobspad 2017
Je déjeune sous un gros arbre tandisqu'autour de moi, oies et canards s'en donnent à cœur joie, font un beau bruit à faire frémir Pierre Boulez lui-même


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Jeff Crawley

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Nov 9, 2014
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canterburypilgrim.wordpress.com
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A "Tourigrino" trip once Covid has passed, so 2023
Thank you for this. We used to own a house near Saintes, close to the village of Talmont where pilgrims crossed the Gironde on their way to Bayonne.

I wonder if my French is still good enough!

Edited: No, he crosses the river further down, closer to Bordeaux, at Blaye - shame, Talmont is a gem, like a mini Mont St Michel.
 
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€46,-
Apr 4, 2007
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A great find. His French is pretty clear and seems to have been written for an intelligent high school student, taken at a reading-aloud pace. Pages 34 following for SJPP and onward. "Pesetas in the wallet..." Things have changed.
 

Jeff Crawley

Veteran Member
Nov 9, 2014
3,917
11,688
Kent, UK
canterburypilgrim.wordpress.com
Time of past OR future Camino
A "Tourigrino" trip once Covid has passed, so 2023
Thanks. This is great. I am embarrassed that I hadn't even heard of Saintes.
A lovely city, capital of the ancient province of Saintonge (Charente and Charent-Maritime nowadays) and home of Cognac, oysters and Pineau des Charentes a ratafia made from Cognac and raisin juice - best stored in the freezer compartment!
 
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€83,-
Jan 21, 2006
143
393
79
Coimbra, Portugal
Time of past OR future Camino
Caminos Francais: 2002, 2012, 2019, 2024
I came across the name of Dominique Paladilhe who walked in 1948, at the age of 27, from Saintes in France via Ostabat, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Roncevaux, Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, Sahagun, and Leon to Santiago. I read only a few pages so far. He describes how he walks from Saint Michel near SJPdP to the top of the mountain where the remains of the former castle Château Pignon are located (many of us are not aware of it when we walk past) and then he remarks that he is close to the Spanish border which he is not allowed to cross here. He walks down to SJPdP again and takes the Valcarlos road because obligations for crossing national borders (formalités douanières) require him to take this road. 1948, long before the Schengen area. We don't know as much as we think about those in whose footsteps we walk ;).

Edited to add the following information: M Paladilhe's account of his pilgrimage is out of print but a pdf version is available on a local museum site:
I am reading it aloud to myself in French, then translating it, again aloud, in English. What an exercise! In 1948, I was an American todller growing up in Germain-en Laye whilst my Dad, a Lt Colonel with a facility for languages, attended L'Ecole du Guerre. My childhood French is opening like a creaking door and dusting itself off as I pass through it. Allons de l'avant!
 
Jan 21, 2006
143
393
79
Coimbra, Portugal
Time of past OR future Camino
Caminos Francais: 2002, 2012, 2019, 2024
Thank you for this. We used to own a house near Saintes, close to the village of Talmont where pilgrims crossed the Gironde on their way to Bayonne.

I wonder if my French is still good enough!

Edited: No, he crosses the river further down, closer to Bordeaux, at Blaye - shame, Talmont is a gem, like a mini Mont St Michel.
Read it aloud like nobody's watching/listening! Really helps!
 
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