LIVE from the Camino My Camino Primitivo...

[omi1]

Currently I am in Belfast City Airport awaiting my 1st of 3 flights to reach Oviedo. My husband has dropped me off in the early hours, and sends me off with his blessing as he understands how much it means to me to go on this walk. I will start the Primitivo tomorrow. I am walking alone and staying in private rooms. I do hope I get the opportunity to socialise with other pilgrims, but will also be happy with a little solitude.

I have previously walked the Frances and Portugues Caminos, but I expect this camino to be tougher. I am looking forward to physical work and mental rest. I work as a mental health practitioner in a crisis/acute care team and walking the camino is part of my self-care and mental "decompression". I am not sure what will come up for me spiritually on this path, but I am open to whatever comes.

 

[The Cumbrian]

Buen Camino Omi.

My son and I leave Oviedo on the 14th, so I'm slightly obsessed with the long term forecast at the moment.

All the best, Michael.

 

[omi1]

Buen Camino Omi.

My son and I leave Oviedo on the 14th, so I'm slightly obsessed with the long term forecast at the moment.

All the best, Michael.

Weather forecast looks great Michael... perhaps no rain until Friday 13th! Buen Camino.

 

[NualaOC]

Wishing you a Buen Camino, @omi1

My husband and I walked the Primitivo a few years ago, following a bereavement. Despite a few setbacks (I was horribly sick for a few days), it was a challenging, beautiful, energising and (to some extent) a cathartic experience.

I hope the Camino brings you what you need, even if it comes in unexpected ways. Thank you for your important work here in N.I. Nuala

 

[NualaOC]

Buen Camino Omi.

My son and I leave Oviedo on the 14th, so I'm slightly obsessed with the long term forecast at the moment.

All the best, Michael.

Lucky you! Wishing you both a Buen Camino.

 

[omi1]

Wishing you a Buen Camino, @omi1

My husband and I walked the Primitivo a few years ago, following a bereavement. Despite a few setbacks (I was horribly sick for a few days), it was a challenging, beautiful, energising and (to some extent) a cathartic experience.

I hope the Camino brings you what you need, even if it comes in unexpected ways. Thank you for your important work here in N.I. Nuala

Thank you Nuala. Great to hear from another NI pilgrim. I'm glad to hear you benefitted from your camino and overcame the challenges too... all part of the Camino journey!

 

[sillydoll]

A group of 6 peregrinas are starting on 12th May. We are walking short stages +- 15km per day from Oviedo to Lugo, then some will transfer to Ferrol to walk the Ingles to Santiago.

 

[sp01326]

Currently I am in Belfast City Airport awaiting my 1st of 3 flights to reach Oviedo. My husband has dropped me off in the early hours, and sends me off with his blessing as he understands how much it means to me to go on this walk. I will start the Primitivo tomorrow. I am walking alone and staying in private rooms. I do hope I get the opportunity to socialise with other pilgrims, but will also be happy with a little solitude.

I have previously walked the Frances and Portugues Caminos, but I expect this camino to be tougher. I am looking forward to physical work and mental rest. I work as a mental health practitioner in a crisis/acute care team and walking the camino is part of my self-care and mental "decompression". I am not sure what will come up for me spiritually on this path, but I am open to whatever comes.

Have a very pleasant Camino. If possible let us know about rain and mud. I’m starting from Oviedo the next Wednesday.

 

[sillydoll]

Have a very pleasant Camino. If possible let us know about rain and mud. I’m starting from Oviedo the next Wednesday.

So are we! 6 peregrinas from South Africa, the US, and Switzerland. Hope we'll see you on the way.

 

[Vagabonder]

My husband and I left Oviedo this morning and are spending the night in Grado. Incredibly wonderful weather and beautiful countryside. I understand about decompression, this is a good place for it. Our first walking in Spain experience, we’ve walked le Chemin du Puy-en-Velay in France which was wonderful.

 

[Carla M.]

Currently I am in Belfast City Airport awaiting my 1st of 3 flights to reach Oviedo. My husband has dropped me off in the early hours, and sends me off with his blessing as he understands how much it means to me to go on this walk. I will start the Primitivo tomorrow. I am walking alone and staying in private rooms. I do hope I get the opportunity to socialise with other pilgrims, but will also be happy with a little solitude.

I have previously walked the Frances and Portugues Caminos, but I expect this camino to be tougher. I am looking forward to physical work and mental rest. I work as a mental health practitioner in a crisis/acute care team and walking the camino is part of my self-care and mental "decompression". I am not sure what will come up for me spiritually on this path, but I am open to whatever comes.

Bueno Camino @omi1 , hope it brings you what you need (and some).
And thank you for sharing your journey

 

[AlainC]

Hola Omi1. I walked the Primitivo in 2017. I am not aware of what has changed since then but I can assure you that you will find it a physical challenge that you will get satisfaction to overcome. One of the previous comments is from someone who stayed in Grado the first night. I highly recommend the albergue in Grado. It is a donativo, very well runned and comfortable. If you wish solitude, you will find it on the Primitivo but you will also meet wonderful pilgrims and local people.

Buen Camino.

 

[omi1]

Have a very pleasant Camino. If possible let us know about rain and mud. I’m starting from Oviedo the next Wednesday.

I certainly will. The weather could not be better today.

 

[omi1]

Hola Omi1. I walked the Primitivo in 2017. I am not aware of what has changed since then but I can assure you that you will find it a physical challenge that you will get satisfaction to overcome. One of the previous comments is from someone who stayed in Grado the first night. I highly recommend the albergue in Grado. It is a donativo, very well runned and comfortable. If you wish solitude, you will find it on the Primitivo but you will also meet wonderful pilgrims and local people.

Buen Camino.

Hola Alain. That sounds perfect.

 

[omi1]

A group of 6 peregrinas are starting on 12th May. We are walking short stages +- 15km per day from Oviedo to Lugo, then some will transfer to Ferrol to walk the Ingles to Santiago.

That sound fantastic. I will be interested to hear how you find the Ingles... I hope to complete it in the future. Short stages sound good. I plan to walk approx 20km per day.

 

[omi1]

The Flight from Madrid to Oviedo was great... you get great views of coast and mountains as you come in to land. Getting from Asturias airport to oviedo is simple on the hourly bus (9 €). Unfortunately I got to my hotel (Soho Boutique Hotel) to find they had overbooked... and moved me to a different hotel. It was an inconvenience and the new hotel has fewer facilities. Also means an extra km on the walk tomorrow... But, i have a warm bed and will hopefully wake up fresh and ready to go!

 

[BobY333]

The Flight from Madrid to Oviedo was great... you get great views of coast and mountains as you come in to land. Getting from Asturias airport to oviedo is simple on the hourly bus (9 €). Unfortunately I got to my hotel (Soho Boutique Hotel) to find they had overbooked... and moved me to a different hotel. It was an inconvenience and the new hotel has fewer facilities. Also means an extra km on the walk tomorrow... But, i have a warm bed and will hopefully wake up fresh and ready to go!

Buen Camino!

 

[sp01326]

The Flight from Madrid to Oviedo was great... you get great views of coast and mountains as you come in to land. Getting from Asturias airport to oviedo is simple on the hourly bus (9 €). Unfortunately I got to my hotel (Soho Boutique Hotel) to find they had overbooked... and moved me to a different hotel. It was an inconvenience and the new hotel has fewer facilities. Also means an extra km on the walk tomorrow... But, i have a warm bed and will hopefully wake up fresh and ready to go!

Sorry for the disturbance. Good night and Buen camino tomorrow

 

[peregrina2000]

The Flight from Madrid to Oviedo was great... you get great views of coast and mountains as you come in to land.

I remember jaw dropping views on a brilliant sunny day. Unbelievable, I think it was worth the price of the plane ticket!

Oviedo is one of Spain’s most beautiful cities, IMO. Hope you can enjoy a little of it. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Archon]

I will also be starting from Oviedo on Wed. Looking forward to it.

 

[The Cumbrian]

I remember jaw dropping views on a brilliant sunny day. Unbelievable, I think it was worth the price of the plane ticket!

Oviedo is one of Spain’s most beautiful cities, IMO. Hope you can enjoy a little of it. Buen camino, Laurie

I went there for a day trip in 2015 and ended up booking a hotel and staying for two nights. Gorgeous place.

 

[Arctic_Alex]

Buen Camino! I will follow in your steps 4 months later and meanwhile I am really looking forward to hear about your adventures on here

 

[Dadhairday]

I am walking alone on the Primitivo now. Think about the albergues that offer communal food. A great way to meet people. I think you miss some of the Camino spirit staying in private rooms which usually means you end up eating alone too! Don’t be afraid of the Hospitales route. Too good to miss. Use caminotaxi to take your pack if you are worried it is too hard. Buen Camino!

 

[omi1]

I made it to Grado today. Had my usual fight with myself as I set off "you should get a bus, it's too far for a first day, change to a closer hotel" etc etc. It's the same thing every Camino. I just have to remind myself of how much I have been looking forward to the walk. The scenery is just stunning.. You tube videos don't do it justice. No mud encountered today....

I am staying in a lovely place called El Lacayo de Sestiello. It is 2.5km out of grado, but you turn off well before Grado... I ended up walking an extra 5 km, because I missed my turn off... too busy talking! Had biscocho, OJ and a great coffee in Independencia cafe which was on the route out of Oviedo. I stopped for lunch early at El Tendejon de fernando. The waitress gave me this big old carta, and it had no sandwiches or snacks. I ended up with an ensalada mista, bread, a coke and a cafe solo... €17 if you please!! It was a very nice salad, but shortly after I ordered, some spanish pilgrims got tortilla, which is what I would have liked!! Guess my spanish is to blame!

 

[omi1]

I am walking alone on the Primitivo now. Think about the albergues that offer communal food. A great way to meet people. I think you miss some of the Camino spirit staying in private rooms which usually means you end up eating alone too! Don’t be afraid of the Hospitales route. Too good to miss. Use caminotaxi to take your pack if you are worried it is too hard. Buen Camino!

Yes, I know what you mean about albergues. I am staying in a couple of those, but I am a terribly light sleeper, so I will only stay in Albergues with a private bedroom... I dont mind sharing a bathroom. I hope you are enjoying your camino... where are you now?

 

[omi1]

I will also be starting from Oviedo on Wed. Looking forward to it.

Buen Camino!

 

[omi1]

Ok, so I am having artichokes with foie and a main of slow cooked beef cheeks for dinner... yes, I am eating alone, yes, I am paying for it, but what a treat! There will be plenty of time for the soup/pork and chips/santiago tarte combo later on...

 

[omi1]

Grado to Salas was another gorgeous stage. I am using hiking poles for the first time and am in love with them. There was a little mud today. Great camino spirit here. I once read there is less of that on the Primitivo than the Frances, but my experience is that everyone is open and kind and warm. I am staying in castillo de valdes which is a gorgeous building. Heading out for my my first menu peregrino of this trip tonight...

 

[sp01326]

Grado to Salas was another gorgeous stage. I am using hiking poles for the first time and am in love with them. There was a little mud today. Great camino spirit here. I once read there is less of that on the Primitivo than the Frances, but my experience is that everyone is open and kind and warm. I am staying in castillo de valdes which is a gorgeous building. Heading out for my my first menu peregrino of this trip tonight...

Thanks! Could you tell me how many people on the way? Enjoy your dinner

 

[omi1]

Thanks! Could you tell me how many people on the way? Enjoy your dinner

There is no problem with beds at this stage. My friend is pretty much alone in the salas municipal tonight... but there may be bottlenecks further along. It is a small enough number to keep seeing the same people and get to know them...

 

[Leah Suchet]

Great to read about good weather! Will be starting in just over a week with a friend. We are planning on staying in municipal albergues and were wondering if light-weight sleeping bags are necessary, or if sleeping sheets would be good enough for this route as this time of year?

 

[omi1]

Great to read about good weather! Will be starting in just over a week with a friend. We are planning on staying in municipal albergues and were wondering if light-weight sleeping bags are necessary, or if sleeping sheets would be good enough for this route as this time of year?

Hi Leah. I think you should bring the sleeping bag. It can still get cold at night in the hills and since covid, blankets may not be guaranteed.

 

[Carla M.]

I will start the Primitivo mid June, solo, and was wondering if you are using any app (specially in the cities and some parts I read that it can be confusing)? I am not very handy with techs and gps, but are considering the possibility

 

[BobY333]

I will start the Primitivo mid June, solo, and was wondering if you are using any app (specially in the cities and some parts I read that it can be confusing)? I am not very handy with techs and gps, but are considering the possibility

I’ve used Camino Ninja on other Caminos and plan to use it on the San Salvador and Primitivo which I start TOMORROW!!! This app has a “map” function that shows where you are relative to the Camino. It came in handy when we missed an arrow on the Camino Portuguese last Fall. Buen Camino!

 

[Carla M.]

I’ve used Camino Ninja on other Caminos and plan to use it on the San Salvador and Primitivo which I start TOMORROW!!! This app has a “map” function that shows where you are relative to the Camino. It came in handy when we missed an arrow on the Camino Portuguese last Fall. Buen Camino!

Bueno Camino. And if you can, share you experience

 

[omi1]

I will start the Primitivo mid June, solo, and was wondering if you are using any app (specially in the cities and some parts I read that it can be confusing)? I am not very handy with techs and gps, but are considering the possibility

I am using the Wise Pilgrim app which is really good. You can download the maps to use offline on your phone (with GPS)

 

[omi1]

Today was a short day for me. As part of practicing the best self-care, I walked only from Tineo to Campiello. We took a detour to the monastery of Obona. It was a fantastic walk today. Most people I have met walked on a little further today, so maybe I won't see them again. But that's the Camino way. I am staying in Casa Herminia which is very pleasant and has a good shop to stock up before Borres or the Hospitales.

 

[The Cumbrian]

That's good information about the shop. Did you notice if they sold wine?

 

[omi1]

That's good information about the shop. Did you notice if they sold wine?

Yes, I think they have wine. I definitely noticed beer.

 

[Vagabonder]

Enjoy your evening of rest! We walked the Hospitales route yesterday, so glad that I had carried a third bottle of water as there was no place to refill until about 2:30 (having left Samblismo around 7:45).

 

[omi1]

Today I walked from Campiello to Pola de Allande. I had the path to myself all day... everyone else must have been on the hospitales. It suited me very well to walk slowly to Pola de Allande. I am staying at the Nueva Allandesa Hotel. A simple room for €30. I had a fantastic menu of Asturian soup with all kinds of pork products, then a vegetable dumpling and a meat filled cabbage dish. Restaurant was full of local people. I was too full for desert and the very kind waiter insisted I take some "granny's cake" to go. Having skipped hospitales , I have a big climb over the pass tomorrow.

 

[The Cumbrian]

Yes, I think they have wine. I definitely noticed beer.

Thanks for that, I've got a plan if I can resupply there.

 

[omi1]

Today I walked 18km from Pola de Allande to Berducedo. This was a challenging day, with a big climb in the morning. Even if you dont take the hospitales, you need to carry plenty of snacks and water as there is nowhere to buy any all day. A kind camino friend saved me with biscuits!. The scenery was stunning. There are several muddy parts and streams.. my poles were essential to me today.

 

[czelnick]

We are in OPedruozo having done the Primitivo last week. What a shock to join the Frances etc in Melide. On the Primitivo we were leapfrogging about 8 people per day the entire route, and recognizing each other staying and eating at same places.

Joining the CF is like being in the migration of African Wildebeests, tons of people all trudging along. Miss the wild ness of the Primitivo.

One more for those following, we had prearranged a taxi from Borres to lodging off the Camino, them back the next morning to do Hospitales. If you are not s purist and can afford, it is an option. The albergues before and after Borres were all filled very early, and we meet several people forced to stay in the Borres municipal albergue which is a pit. The guide says " you will survive" but I would add you will be very unhappy too. There is meaning in suffering sometimes, but one should not seek it out without a good reason I believe.

Tomorrow, Santiago. Buen camino to you all. C limbing the steep him on a hot morning after Benfucedo, I saw the graffiti on the road in the picture...

 

[Vagabonder]

We will arrive in Melide on Tuesday and not looking forward to the change in pace…

 

[peregrina2000]

we had prearranged a taxi from Borres to lodging off the Camino, them back the next morning to do Hospitales.

That’s a good back-up alternative — can you tell us the name of the place @czelnick?

Tomorrow will be bittersweet for you, I bet. Enjoy and buen camino!

 

[czelnick]

Well we had always wanted to stay at the Parador at Casios, so that's where we went, but you could always get a taxi to Pola de Allende and go back to Borres the next am.

That’s a good back-up alternative — can you tell us the name of the place @czelnick?

Tomorrow will be bittersweet for you, I bet. Enjoy and buen camino!

 

[czelnick]

Well we had always wanted to stay at the Parador at Casios, so that's where we went, but you could always get a taxi to Pola de Allende and go back to Borres the next am.

That’s a good back-up alternative — can you tell us the name of the place @czelnick?

Tomorrow will be bittersweet for you, I bet. Enjoy and buen camino!

 

[omi1]

Yesterday I walked 26 km from Berducedo to Castro.

We are in OPedruozo having done the Primitivo last week. What a shock to join the Frances etc in Melide. On the Primitivo we were leapfrogging about 8 people per day the entire route, and recognizing each other staying and eating at same places.

Joining the CF is like being in the migration of African Wildebeests, tons of people all trudging along. Miss the wild ness of the Primitivo.

One more for those following, we had prearranged a taxi from Borres to lodging off the Camino, them back the next morning to do Hospitales. If you are not s purist and can afford, it is an option. The albergues before and after Borres were all filled very early, and we meet several people forced to stay in the Borres municipal albergue which is a pit. The guide says " you will survive" but I would add you will be very unhappy too. There is meaning in suffering sometimes, but one should not seek it out without a good reason I believe.

Tomorrow, Santiago. Buen camino to you all. C limbing the steep him on a hot morning after Benfucedo, I saw the graffiti on the road in the picture...View attachment 125043

That graffiti was funny, in the middle of the steep climb!

 

[omi1]

Today I went from Castro to Fonsegrada. Finally into Galicia. There is a great restaurant about 5km before Fonsegrada, for a really great lunch (not pilgrims menu, a little fancier than that but still relaxed) We had 4 seasons in one day today, and the ponchos had to come out.

 

[omi1]

I have reached Melide and Joined the Frances. Weather is fantastic. The day from Ferreira to Melide is much nicer than I expected from the guidebook. It is very picturesque and there is a nice bar to stop at on the way, which I had not expected.

 

[Vagabonder]

Glad you got there after the rain, when we arrived on Tuesday we were quite wet and it wasn’t as fun exploring the town. Beautiful weather now.

 

[omi1]

I have reached A rua today. Arzua was ok yesterday, but I regretted not staying in Ribadiso instead, because it was beautiful, with the river running through and was peaceful.

 

[dbier]

Ribadiso was so pretty in the sun...and the pulpo there was really good....

 

[Carla M.]

Ribadiso was so pretty in the sun...and the pulpo there was really good....

Any place you recommend to have the pulpo in Ribadiso?

 

[omi1]

And my camino ends. 16 days walking was perfect for me to complete the Primitivo without too much pain. It really is a bit harder than the Frances or Portugues, but so beautiful. Buen Camino to all those who will soon be on their way.

 

[Vagabonder]

Really wonderful isn’t it! We took 15 days so we wouldn’t have to hurry and were able to arrive in Lugo by noon, and Santiago by 8am. A bit harder than via Podiensis, the only walk we’d done, but spectacular.

 

[dbier]

Any place you recommend to have the pulpo in Ribadiso?

It was the cafe/restaurant right next to the albergue, just across the river. I don't have the name to hand...

 

[rojasa]

Currently I am in Belfast City Airport awaiting my 1st of 3 flights to reach Oviedo. My husband has dropped me off in the early hours, and sends me off with his blessing as he understands how much it means to me to go on this walk. I will start the Primitivo tomorrow. I am walking alone and staying in private rooms. I do hope I get the opportunity to socialise with other pilgrims, but will also be happy with a little solitude.

I have previously walked the Frances and Portugues Caminos, but I expect this camino to be tougher. I am looking forward to physical work and mental rest. I work as a mental health practitioner in a crisis/acute care team and walking the camino is part of my self-care and mental "decompression". I am not sure what will come up for me spiritually on this path, but I am open to whatever comes.

Buen camino! My friend Raquel (Madrid) is leaving Oviedo tomorrow to walk Primitivo as well, with a couple of girlfriends. We met on the CF last fall…A wonderful person, so caring and down to earth. Diga “hola” de Ana from Oregon if you meet up! (She does speak English, however we communicate in Spanish). I wish you the best.

 

[BobY333]

Any place you recommend to have the pulpo in Ribadiso?

O Candal in A Fonsagrada - as recommended by David at Bodenaya. Very good!!!

 

[rojasa]

Today I walked from Campiello to Pola de Allande. I had the path to myself all day... everyone else must have been on the hospitales. It suited me very well to walk slowly to Pola de Allande. I am staying at the Nueva Allandesa Hotel. A simple room for €30. I had a fantastic menu of Asturian soup with all kinds of pork products, then a vegetable dumpling and a meat filled cabbage dish. Restaurant was full of local people. I was too full for desert and the very kind waiter insisted I take some "granny's cake" to go. Having skipped hospitales , I have a big climb over the pass tomorrow.