Solo Female Walking Via de la Plata: Safety and Logistics

[nycwalking]

Hello everyone,

Is it safe to walk Via de la Plata as a solo woman?

Except for first camino with mom all subsequent ones have been solo. But those treks were on Frances and one Camino Sanabres Ourense to Santiago. Lots of infrastructure with many pilgrims.

I am doing a virtual camino on VdlP and there are many stretches of 15-20 kilometers without services or highways or anyplace where others congregate.

If possible and some miracles I would like to begin late May. I like heat.

Do let me know what you guys think.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I’ve walked about half of it alone and felt safe. I met Luka on the trail once. I think she walked it.

 

[peregrina2000]

I’ve walked it alone, once the “whole way” from Sevilla, and different parts of it when connecting from other caminos three or four times. I have never had an issue. That of course doesn’t mean it won’t happen, but I know you have walked other caminos alone, and I don’t think this one presents any special concerns. There was an issue years and years ago about someone near Camas, right outside Sevilla, but it was so long ago that I am not even going to search for the forum reports. You can be sure this particular danger was taken care of.

So glad to hear about a camino plan for you, NYC. I remember how much I enjoyed your reports from your Sanabrés a few years ago (was that your last pre-covid walk?), which was one of those joyous almost triumphant reports of grit! Buen camino, amiga!

 

[ranthr]

I walked solo in 2011 and felt safe.
This was a year with lots of pilgrims on Via de la Plata. I met very few women, perhaps less than 10 all the way until I took off to Astorga and the Frances.
Some years later there were some incidents of pilgrims being robbed on the first stages, but I think that problem was solved by the police.

 

[C clearly]

I walked alone in 2017 and would happily do it again.

 

[domigee]

It is the only Camino I walked with my husband but I would walk it alone again in a jiffy, it is safe…except….
You have to walk for miles through fields full of cows, in Extremadura. That I must admit freaked me out! I can cope with 10 to 12 cows, just, but not thousands of them!
I wouldn’t walk it again for that only reason. But then I’m a wuss
PS: We started 2nd June, it was already very hot (36 deg in Sevilla). Be prepared to carry at least 3L of water.

 

[Bradypus]

You have to walk for miles through fields full of cows, in Extremadura. That I must admit freaked me out! I can cope with 10 to 12 cows, just, but not thousands of them!

And pigs too for some of the way. Proper jamon iberico on the hoof

 

[domigee]

And pigs too for some of the way. Proper jamon iberico on the hoof

Lol yes! But somehow they didn’t scare me as much - although they were very big and followed us!!!

 

[Sunopo]

Hello everyone,

Is it safe to walk Via de la Plata as a solo woman?

Except for first camino with mom all subsequent ones have been solo. But those treks were on Frances and one Camino Sanabres Ourense to Santiago. Lots of infrastructure with many pilgrims.

I am doing a virtual camino on VdlP and there are many stretches of 15-20 kilometers without services or highways or anyplace where others congregate.

If possible and some miracles I would like to begin late May. I like heat.

Do let me know what you guys think.

I walked Seville to Casar de Caceres in October and met other pilgrims every day. I felt quite safe whilst always alert as I would be on any walk. I am very happy to be going back mid March to complete (Astorga) and expecting to meet fewer at this time of year. If you walk in May most likely you’ll meet others every day, there are many more walking than we know of from this forum particularly Spanish.

 

[camino07]

I felt safe walking solo in 2012 and will walk solo again after Easter if I can get out of Australia .I am 74 .
Barking dogs are the only animals that scare me.

 

[Levi]

I walked it solo in 2016. No problems apart from, like @domigee, being a bit freaked out by the cows. But I managed and would love to walk it again.

 

[Robo]

I walked it solo in 2016. No problems apart from, like @domigee, being a bit freaked out by the cows. But I managed and would love to walk it again.

So, what is the recommended way of dealing with cows 'en masse'?

I found a couple of videos that explained the cows will be curious and come to look at you.
And if you run, they'll run too, as it's fun! (so don't run)
If you turn and face them, they stop.

All sounds fairly harmless.

But what of Spanish cows?

And do you have to walk through fields of Bulls?
A whole different ball game I imagine?

Who is the Forum's resident cow 'expert'?

 

[DoughnutANZ]

So, what is the recommended way of dealing with cows 'en masse'?

I found a couple of videos that explained the cows will be curious and come to look at you.
And if you run, they'll run too, as it's fun! (so don't run)
If you turn and face them, they stop.

All sounds fairly harmless.

But what of Spanish cows?

And do you have to walk through fields of Bulls?
A whole different ball game I imagine?

Who is the Forum's resident cow 'expert'?

Ignore them. Unless there is a calf around they are not aggressive.

If for some reason you are unable to do that, discomfort or whatever then you can move them by making yourself much bigger. If you were a farmer then you would raise your crook above your head. You probably don't have a crook and so you could raise your hiking pole(s) above your head.

Don't wave them about or try to strike them. You are making yourself taller. If you do this then they will simply withdraw.

If you frighten them by waving your poles around or trying to strike them then you risk stampeding them and hurting the cows and yourself.

Cattle have been bred over numerous generations to be easy to handle. You are in their environment, treat them with respect but don't be aggressive or afraid.

 

[koknesis]

.. I like heat ...

Great! VdlP is the right place then
In early June of 2017 the heat was testing all the limits between Sevilla and Merida. About 6 l of water dayly and electrolyte supplements required. There was no shadow to stop and cool down, so some water was going straight on the hat and shirt.
So the heat was the biggest safety concern for a solo pilgrim on a deserted Camino and I was warned about this almost every morning by locals. After Salamanca I enjoyed moderate temperatures for the rest of the way.
Regarding more specific safety issues I can say only that I met several solo walking ladies and none of them brought up any concerns.
Buen Camino!

 

[koknesis]

Ignore them. Unless there is a calf around they are not aggressive.

Exactly! Never approach a cow at calving time!

 

[peregrina2000]

But what of Spanish cows?

And do you have to walk through fields of Bulls?
A whole different ball game I imagine?

I have had a lot of experiences involving cows and other livestock. I only remember one encounter with a huge herd on the Vdlp, on the re-routed camino into Carcaboso. I flattened myself against the fence as hundreds came walking uphill towards me. At the end came the shepherd on his moto, who predictably told me “no hacen nada” (which is also always what the owners of dogs that plant themselves in front of me and bark menacingly say!).

There are forum threads on this topic - the one I remember most is this one. @Farmer John
qualifies as a bull expert, but unfortunately he is no longer active on the forum. Look at his post (number 17 in the thread). There is a difference between bulls and steer, I learned, and more importantly for Spain, there is a big difference between toros and toros bravos. The latter are probably what you are thinking of, @Robo. And a Spanish friend assured me that there is no chance that we will walk through those fields — for one thing, EU regulations; for another, the huge investment that these bulls represent. You will pass by a number of “bull farms” on the Vdlp, but not only will you not have to walk through them, you will find security cameras, impenetrable gates, and signs that you should stay far away.

I still stop and move aside when a large group comes towards me on the camino path, but I don’t freak out anymore. Even better, I now walk straight through the occasional group of grazing livestock without panic. I always tell myself that there have been no forum reports of pilgrims attacked or injured by livestock, so I am unlikely to be the first.

 

[Robo]

I have had a lot of experiences involving cows and other livestock. I only remember one encounter with a huge herd on the Vdlp, on the re-routed camino into Carcaboso. I flattened myself against the fence as hundreds came walking uphill towards me. At the end came the shepherd on his moto, who predictably told me “no hacen nada” (which is also always what the owners of dogs that plant themselves in front of me and bark menacingly say!).

There are forum threads on this topic - the one I remember most is this one. @Farmer John
qualifies as a bull expert, but unfortunately he is no longer active on the forum. Look at his post (number 17 in the thread). There is a difference between bulls and steer, I learned, and more importantly for Spain, there is a big difference between toros and toros bravos. The latter are probably what you are thinking of, @Robo. And a Spanish friend assured me that there is no chance that we will walk through those fields — for one thing, EU regulations; for another, the huge investment that these bulls represent. You will pass by a number of “bull farms” on the Vdlp, but not only will you not have to walk through them, you will find security cameras, impenetrable gates, and signs that you should stay far away.

I still stop and move aside when a large group comes towards me on the camino path, but I don’t freak out anymore. Even better, I now walk straight through the occasional group of grazing livestock without panic. I always tell myself that there have been no forum reports of pilgrims attacked or injured by livestock, so I am unlikely to be the first.

Very useful thanks @peregrina2000 . Based on the comment from @Farmer John, I have my bull recognition photos firmly implanted in my brain! (I know the Jerseys, I come from there)

The point is, if you encounter ANY breed of dairy bull (Holstein, Jersey, Guernsey) with cows in a field, give them a very wide berth

 

[Bradypus]

The point is, if you encounter ANY breed of dairy bull (Holstein, Jersey, Guernsey) with cows in a field, give them a very wide berth

At the time of my first Camino Frances the route passed through a large field with cattle not far west of Roncesvalles. So on my very first morning in Spain I found myself face-to-face with a huge pale coloured bull which stood stock still right on the path staring at me. My mind was full of unhappy thoughts: "Spain?" "Bull?" He was probably a very placid beast but I made a very wide detour around him anyway

 

[jungleboy]

I don’t remember seeing this on any previous camino but on the Nascente in Portugal last year there were warning signs (‘Gado Bravo’ - Wild Cattle) in specific areas where the cows might pose a threat (not everywhere there were cows). We were a little nervous going through those areas but luckily there were no incidents.

One of my favourite photos from that camino shows Wendy on a typical Alentejano springtime trail in a stare-down with some of these cows, who eventually blinked and walked away.

 

[Old Hillwalker]

Not in Spain or Portugal, but still slightly unsettling. On the Isle of Rum (Rhum) Scotland. The pointy things were my main concern while walking past.

 

[Simon B]

Hello everyone,

Is it safe to walk Via de la Plata as a solo woman?

Except for first camino with mom all subsequent ones have been solo. But those treks were on Frances and one Camino Sanabres Ourense to Santiago. Lots of infrastructure with many pilgrims.

I am doing a virtual camino on VdlP and there are many stretches of 15-20 kilometers without services or highways or anyplace where others congregate.

If possible and some miracles I would like to begin late May. I like heat.

Do let me know what you guys think.

I walked alone from Seville to Salamanca and was never aware of any possible threat. Everybody I met along the way could not have been more helpful or friendly. Of course this is from a male perspective. I met one female pilgrim who seemed very much at ease. It is a wonderful Camino and I how you enjoy it safely.I am hoping to finish later this year.

 

[Walton]

But what of Spanish cows?

And do you have to walk through fields of Bulls?
A whole different ball game I imagine?

Who is the Forum's resident cow 'expert'?

I'm not an expert Robo but as a country lad I say you should never trust any animal until you know it well.

Never trust a bull - always keep your eye on it and if it begins to behave differently when it sees you, such as becoming agitated, back away towards the safety of a fence or tree while watching it carefully.

Also, don't trust the cows either especially if there is a herd of them. Keep an eye on them and if they don't react to you, just keep on walking I recon but have an escape plan. Again trees or better still, fences are good.

Pigs - beware of them too. One of my chores as a youngster was to clean the boars pen. Anyone else could clean the pen without issue but when I entered the pen, the boar would instantly charge me every time. A good whack on the snout with a straw broom tamed the boar for a while which allowed me to clean his pen. Gosh - I only had to walk past his pen and he would be up the sides of his pen trying to do me in!

Also, as an aside, be careful of roosters as well. Two weeks ago I attended hospital after being attacked by our own rooster whose spurs punctured my lower leg. The rooster is still alive albeit with very blunt spurs.

Ok, so I've been charged by a bull on two occasions, a herd of cows which I escaped by diving over a fence, only to have to dive back over the fence to rescue my younger brother who had tripped over, fought a boar in his pen on quite a few occasions, and was recently gored by a rooster who though he needed to protect his flock. Oh, I forgot, I was butted and flattened by my late mothers goat, named Tina, on one occasion as well. I still love animals though.

There is no need to be afraid in my opinion. You just need to be cautious and treat them with respect.

If you see animals, just keep on walking while watching them out of the corner of your eye. If the behaviour changes, you should have an escape plan in mind just in case the animal takes a bit too much notice of you.

Buen Camino!

 

[nycwalking]

Thank you all for reply.

I honestly can’t wrap my mind around VdlP trepidation.

Even prior to health problems walking this route made me skittish.

Again, thanks everyone for all contributions.

 

[Bradypus]

Thank you all for reply.

I honestly can’t wrap my mind around VdlP trepidation.

That is fair enough. It is a very different type of route from the Frances or the Sanabres. In some ways such as distances and the necessity for advance planning it is much more demanding. You will understand best what gives you comfort and what makes you uneasy. I would not recommend the VdlP to those who want the security of frequent companionship with other pilgrims. Personally I enjoy the solitude and the long stages of the VdlP much more than the frantic busyness of the Frances these days. But I am a bit of a hermit at the best of times. And as a man my own safety concerns may be different. I am sitting at home in Wales just now trying to decide if the time is now ripe for a return to Spain after a couple of years absence. The VdlP is the first route in my mind. But part of me wonders if I should take advantage of the relatively small numbers just now for another - possibly final - walk along the Frances. Something of a luxury to be spoiled for choice

 

[peregrina2000]

I honestly can’t wrap my mind around VdlP trepidation.

Even prior to health problems walking this route made me skittish.

NYC, if you want to share, what is the source of your trepidation? Why are you skittish? I think knowing what you are leery of would help us respond better.

It may require a bit more planning and less spontaneity, but the Vdlp need not be a camino of long stages. @AJGuillaume led a very detailed planning thread on the Vdlp, and as you may know he and his wife need to keep their stages short. Take a look at it if it’s the distance that is worrying you.

 

[Robo]

NYC, if you want to share, what is the source of your trepidation? Why are you skittish? I think knowing what you are leery of would help us respond better.

It may require a bit more planning and less spontaneity, but the Vdlp need not be a camino of long stages. @AJGuillaume led a very detailed planning thread on the Vdlp, and as you may know he and his wife need to keep their stages short. Take a look at it if it’s the distance that is worrying you.

I found that Virtual Camino by @AJGuillaume and the input of other forum members of great value in my planning, as I too cannot walk long stages.

By watching that and reviewing the route on Gronze, I'm now confident I can manage it.

My average 'planned' kms per day are only 18 ! That includes some quite short 'recovery' days.
Only 3 days are over 25 kms (and not much over 26, 27 and 28) each with a Plan B if required.

I also found the video by Nautila on YouTube of real interest.
Though I have to say I thought he was nuts walking in Summer !
And of course the VdlP videos by @Sara_Dhooma on YouTube are great and give a good perspective of the route.

I can understand the loneliness of this route making some people nervous.
But that's all part of the challenge I think.
It will be a very different experience from the CF.

 

[Albertagirl]

I walked the VdlP/Sanabres solo in 2017. I found it safe. After walking the long stages of the Levante in 2021, then on to the VdlP at Zamore, the stages on the VdlP felt comparatively short and safe. However, I was walking alone on the VdlP when I caught my foot on something and fell. I was not significantly injured, but travelling alone on a route that is not busy could leave you without a rescuer if you were injured along the way.

 

[C clearly]

I'm not confident I can manage it.

Was that a typo? Did you mean "I'm NOW confident I can manage it."

I honestly can’t wrap my mind around VdlP trepidation.

Even prior to health problems walking this route made me skittish.

if you want to share, what is the source of your trepidation?

I second the questions from @peregrina2000. I am 73, moderately fit, not an Amazon or "strong" walker, and I get nervous around animals. However, I loved the VDLP and it would be my choice if I suddenly had to pick ONE Camino to walk repeatedly for the rest of life.

 

[nycwalking]

NYC, if you want to share, what is the source of your trepidation? Why are you skittish? I think knowing what you are leery of would help us respond better.

It may require a bit more planning and less spontaneity, but the Vdlp need not be a camino of long stages. @AJGuillaume led a very detailed planning thread on the Vdlp, and as you may know he and his wife need to keep their stages short. Take a look at it if it’s the distance that is worrying you.

2001-2014, ages 39-51, I was so fit and so strong I never worried about summoning strength for fight or flight or fatigue.

On CF, 2001, I had a flasher. So what. I was fit and strong and simply carried on. I knew flight or fight were options.

I never even trained for any caminos. Years of ballet, modern dance classes, walking hours a day, and being a high school gymnast was all the prep I needed.

Ourense to Santiago 2019. My first foray to camino land post year and a half steroid taking for a chronic illness. Walked up that hill out of Ourense on sheer strength of will and knowledge I could hitch a ride if truly needed.

My fight or flight is severely diminished whilst sudden fatigue onset has escalated. That is my concern.

Thanks to all for your replies.

Forum members are so uplifting.

Buen camino to all you lovely folk.

 

[Robo]

Was that a typo? Did you mean "I'm NOW confident I can manage it."

It was a typo.

And I am

 

[caro123]

Hello everyone,

Is it safe to walk Via de la Plata as a solo woman?

Except for first camino with mom all subsequent ones have been solo. But those treks were on Frances and one Camino Sanabres Ourense to Santiago. Lots of infrastructure with many pilgrims.

I am doing a virtual camino on VdlP and there are many stretches of 15-20 kilometers without services or highways or anyplace where others congregate.

If possible and some miracles I would like to begin late May. I like heat.

Do let me know what you guys think.

Great choice of Camino. I have, like many women walked many Camino’s solo with no real concerns. Meeting people along the way, stopping and talking to locals (with bad Spanish).

 

[peregrina2000]

My fight or flight is severely diminished whilst sudden fatigue onset has escalated. That is my concern.

As a solo female walker,I have been flashed at least 6 times on the Francés, never on the Vdlp (And some of the Francés flashings occurred when I was walking with another woman). I know there are no guarantees, but I don’t think the Vdlp stands out as a camino that is less safe for solo women walkers in any way. In springtime, there are enough others walking to give comfort — in fact I came upon full albergues at a few places. What have you heard to give you this concern, @nyc?

But I will also say that if this trepidation is unshakable for you, walking in fear is just not the way to go IMHO.

 

[nycwalking]

As a solo female walker,I have been flashed at least 6 times on the Francés, never on the Vdlp (And some of the Francés flashings occurred when I was walking with another woman). I know there are no guarantees, but I don’t think the Vdlp stands out as a camino that is less safe for solo women walkers in any way. In springtime, there are enough others walking to give comfort — in fact I came upon full albergues at a few places. What have you heard to give you this concern, @nyc?

But I will also say that if this trepidation is unshakable for you, walking in fear is just not the way to go IMHO.

Just the answer I needed.

If all falls into place VdlP here I come.

Everyone thanks for heartfelt replies.

 

[Walton]

But I will also say that if this trepidation is unshakable for you, walking in fear is just not the way to go IMHO.

Walking in fear is something I understand very well for a variety of reasons.

At age, 60 I thought you know what, I'm going to do something about this fear that I have.

So, I began training in Wing Chun Kung Fu, which is a very suitable martial art for someone my age. Not too much boom crash opera, but more of form, structure, technique and little steps.

Within six months, I began to feel less fearful but not stupidly so. No-one is invincible.

I actually forgot about my fear after a couple of years and while I'm still cautious, I'm no longer fearful of being out and about.

The point is that you don't have to live in fear and yes, no matter what your age, you can do something to lighten the feelings.

If your need is urgent, why not check with the local police for self defence courses. There are courses for men and women, and mixed courses as well. (Some of the lovely women in my Wing Chun class were - well, you wouldn't want to be funny with them shall we say)

or you could do what I did for six years, carefully select a martial art and begin step 1 then move to step 2 and so on.

The biggest step was step 0 - attending that first class after carefully selecting a Wing Chun school.

Cheers

Graham

 

[nycwalking]

Walking in fear is something I understand very well for a variety of reasons.

At age, 60 I thought you know what, I'm going to do something about this fear that I have.

So, I began training in Wing Chun Kung Fu, which is a very suitable martial art for someone my age. Not too much boom crash opera, but more of form, structure, technique and little steps.

Within six months, I began to feel less fearful but not stupidly so. No-one is invincible.

I actually forgot about my fear after a couple of years and while I'm still cautious, I'm no longer fearful of being out and about.

The point is that you don't have to live in fear and yes, no matter what your age, you can do something to lighten the feelings.

If your need is urgent, why not check with the local police for self defence courses. There are courses for men and women, and mixed courses as well. (Some of the lovely women in my Wing Chun class were - well, you wouldn't want to be funny with them shall we say)

or you could do what I did for six years, carefully select a martial art and begin step 1 then move to step 2 and so on.

The biggest step was step 0 - attending that first class after carefully selecting a Wing Chun school.

Cheers

Graham

I guess I should fess up.

I am 7 years post an autoimmune diagnosis that has wasted my muscles and sapped a life of acquired strength.

I just feel physically far more vulnerable than I ever have.

It’s nice to commend elderly for taking two months to complete the way.

It’s quite another to be that person.

That’s a completely new sensation for me.

So, stay or go isn’t so much about fear of molestation just simply trying to manage life in this body.

In time with effort, lots of effort as my a rheumatologist told me, I can find a fitter physique and walk on.

Again, thanks to all who replied.

Just needed a collective: It’s okay boost.

 

[Walton]

I guess I should fess up.

I am 7 years post an autoimmune diagnosis that has wasted my muscles and sapped a life of acquired strength.

I just feel physically far more vulnerable than I ever have.

It’s nice to commend elderly for taking two months to complete the way.

It’s quite another to be that person.

That’s a completely new sensation for me.

So, stay or go isn’t so much about fear of molestation just simply trying to manage life in this body.

In time with effort, lots of effort as my a rheumatologist told me, I can find a fitter physique and walk on.

Again, thanks to all who replied.

Just needed a collective: It’s okay boost.

That's not fear...that's courage, determination and resilience in the face of challenge and adversity.

You have your own cheer squad right here on this forum!

 

[VNwalking]

, stay or go isn’t so much about fear of molestation just simply trying to manage life in this body.

In time with effort, lots of effort as my a rheumatologist told me, I can find a fitter physique and walk on.

The VdlP isn't on my radar, so this is a late but very heartfelt reply.

A lifetime in this body, and now...big change. Limits where there were none. Struggles with what was once done without thinking about it.
And you're facing a challenge by walking into it. No matter how hard, you'll find a way.
Wow.

By way of affirmation, I can only quote Georgia O'Keeffe:

I've been absolutely terrified every moment of my life - and I've never let it keep me from doing a single thing I wanted to do.

That's what you're doing, and it is such a wonderful thing to witness.
You rock, @nycwalking!
Buen camino, amiga. May your anxieties dissolve like snow on a summer day.

 

[el nadador del sol]

View attachment 116095View attachment 116096

Not in Spain or Portugal, but still slightly unsettling. On the Isle of Rum (Rhum) Scotland. The pointy things were my main concern while walking past.

OMG! So adorable! Naturally I wouldn't want to go up and pet it, but I love that shaggy/hippy look. <3

 

[SioCamino]

Hello everyone,

Is it safe to walk Via de la Plata as a solo woman?

Except for first camino with mom all subsequent ones have been solo. But those treks were on Frances and one Camino Sanabres Ourense to Santiago. Lots of infrastructure with many pilgrims.

I am doing a virtual camino on VdlP and there are many stretches of 15-20 kilometers without services or highways or anyplace where others congregate.

If possible and some miracles I would like to begin late May. I like heat.

Do let me know what you guys think.

Hi @nycwalking, i missed your post originally and just spotted it now. I absolutely love this route. For me it was a perfect combination of the solitude i like while actually walking and the company & solidaridad in the evenings /albergues that lifts this from a walk to a camino.
I walked the VDLP over 3 stages - the 1st 2 (Sevilla to Cáceres and the next year from there to Salamanca). I walked with a close (female) friend for the first 2 years. I came back the 3rd year and walked solo from Salamanca.
I had no issues on my own, its wasn't all that different from the stages i walked with my friend as we had different speeds. I generally feel fairly safe in Spain. Like obviously as a woman, you always have a bit of spidey-senses awareness of your surroundings but i never had any issues at all along that route.
I speak a good bit of Spanish which probably helped a bit but its by no means essential for this route...

Enjoy!