Why you should not walk the Camino del Norte (or at least not until you have read this post!)

[poogeyejr]

I disagree with the original post and have attached some comments. This route, imo, is maybe the best of the Camino's I have walked. Only a 345 word response. Part of Joe's response is here:

I found this Camino to be a great walk along the Northern coast of Spain. There is hard surface walking. The food is more varied and better than the Frances. The Albergues and other accommodation is more than adequate in my experience, Spring walking. While this route is not as social as the Frances, I was never without companionship. I also found that most of the Pilgrims I encountered had never walked the Frances.

Ultreya,
Joe

I agree Joe - I met a large number of people who had only done the Norte. We loved the views and that made up for the hills. We loved the solitude and our Camino family was our entire hostel. Every night we would leave one location and by the end of the day 20 people had met up at the next hostel. We watched out for each other, we knew who was injured or got bed bugs. And we waited for the slow walkers with a beer at the end of the day. I am concerned about getting lost in the crowds of the Frances, about not seeing the same friendly faces every day. Most of our legs were about 16-22km due to the hills and hostel distance, but we loved it. I loved it so much that I am finding it hard to do another route.

 

[jpflavin1]

I agree Joe - I met a large number of people who had only done the Norte. We loved the views and that made up for the hills. We loved the solitude and our Camino family was our entire hostel. Every night we would leave one location and by the end of the day 20 people had met up at the next hostel. We watched out for each other, we knew who was injured or got bed bugs. And we waited for the slow walkers with a beer at the end of the day. I am concerned about getting lost in the crowds of the Frances, about not seeing the same friendly faces every day. Most of our legs were about 16-22km due to the hills and hostel distance, but we loved it. I loved it so much that I am finding it hard to do another route.

Poogeyejr:

If you plan to walk the Frances in March, I would not worry about crowds. Easter week will be the only crowded time. You will find much of the same Camaraderie you enjoyed on the Norte. The Frances is a very enjoyable walk.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[poogeyejr]

Thanks Joe. I will miss the Ocean however! I am planning a short journey on the Norte afterward just to get my sea side fix!

K

 

[nc6000]

I walked from Irun to Santander last spring and found it was OK. Some difficult stages and very different to the Camino Frances.

I'm considering going back to complete some more this year.

Where exactly is the albergue with the rats?

 

[ramble-on]

I think if you liked the Le Puy you will love the Norte. It has more in common with the Le Puy than with the Francės.

- I have eaten a LOT of mostly very good fish, including a 1/4kg of percebes for €10, perhaps 1/4 the cost in Santiago, lots of wonderfully fresh mussels, some memorable sopa de mariscos, some tiny explode in your mouth navajas, perfectly fresh swordfish and sardines, and mostly (not the barnacles, obviously) included in the menú del día, or pretty cheap. In fact I haven't eaten any meat since leaving the mountains, better have some fabada before I leave Asturias.

Two big and positive takeaways from this thread for me. I loved the LePuy route and not so much the typical pilgrim's menu which gets stale very quickly. Good to see some comments about the Norte's being well way-marked as I can get lost easily and thoroughly, but I guess as long as the sea's on my right, and the mountains on my left, I'll get to Oviedo. What happens on the Primitivo may be another story lol.

 

[Kanga]

@ramble-on more like the Le Puy for its beautiful scenery, the lesser numbers of walkers, and good food. Unfortunately much more road walking than the Le Puy.

 

[ramble-on]

Oh well, three out of four's still better than many other ways. There're also, I expect, daily ascents/descents, which were quite beautiful on the Le Puy - I particularly remember how fog/mist/clouds would gather in the valleys while "up top" the sun was shining. Brilliant! It's what happens at a Melide that may be hard...

 

[Johnny English]

As far as the physical challenge, it was the hardest thing I've ever done in my life, and I am 24 yrs old, a runner, and would consider myself very in shape. Every single day in the first two weeks was an incredible struggle. But the reward at the end of the day was always worth it, getting/making good food, relaxing, enjoying the beach etc. I think it built character, my mantra during the tough times was frequently "if I can do this I can do anything." This got me up many hills...

A lot of good information there Jes - how many miles did you tend to do each day?

 

[Fr. Stuart Crevcoure]

I'm planning a Camino with a friend in June 2017, and we're considering the Camino del Norte. We have to fit in our pilgrimage within two weeks including air travel days, so if we choose the Northern route, we would probably start near the Asturias-Galicia border. I walked the Camino Portugues in 2008 (it was marvelous, and seems to have grown in popularity since then); for my friend it will be his first Camino. I'm weighing up all the comments in this thread from the original post on, but would someone be able to speak specifically to the Galician portion of the Camino del Norte? I'm wondering if some of the "downsides" to the first two-thirds of the route - especially long stretches of paved roads - are less of an issue once the camino turns inland to Santiago.

 

[Old Koot]

.... but would someone be able to speak specifically to the Galician portion of the Camino del Norte? I'm wondering if some of the "downsides" to the first two-thirds of the route - especially long stretches of paved roads - are less of an issue once the camino turns inland to Santiago.

From my humble perspective and experience, the "Galician portion" was the worst part of walking the del Norte. The scenery and the terrain wasn't anywhere as interesting compared to the variety of the walking the cliffs and beaches from Irun.

I will be very soon walking again nest week from Irun, but I will avoid the last section of the del Norte by walking the Primitvo.

I would suggest two weeks walking the Camino anywhere else other than the "Galician portion" of the del Norte.

Just my most modest two cents worth.

Edited by a moderator to remove personal slurs.

 

[Thornley]

I'm planning a Camino with a friend in June 2017, and we're considering the Camino del Norte. We have to fit in our pilgrimage within two weeks including air travel days, so if we choose the Northern route, we would probably start near the Asturias-Galicia border. I walked the Camino Portugues in 2008 (it was marvelous, and seems to have grown in popularity since then); for my friend it will be his first Camino. I'm weighing up all the comments in this thread from the original post on, but would someone be able to speak specifically to the Galician portion of the Camino del Norte? I'm wondering if some of the "downsides" to the first two-thirds of the route - especially long stretches of paved roads - are less of an issue once the camino turns inland to Santiago.

Iran to Santander with the train from Bilbao to Castro Urdialles to allow a leasurily walk
Would avoid Ribadeo to Santiago like the plaque.

 

[Pelegrin]

I think that the Irún - Ribadeo stretch is the most scenic part
in all the Caminos, but despite this you can do any other Camino (or stretch) if you like.
The Galician portion is not as scenic as the coast part of course but it is also green with meadows and oaks. I haven't done it yet but I am from a village near Miraz and I know the area quite well. You also have the Sobrado dos Monxes monastery in the middle and you can arrive in Santiago and get the sensation of completing a Camino.

 

[Tia Valeria]

I'm planning a Camino with a friend in June 2017, and we're considering the Camino del Norte. We have to fit in our pilgrimage within two weeks including air travel days, so if we choose the Northern route, we would probably start near the Asturias-Galicia border. ...

With that time scale maybe you should consider the Primitivo, with a start in Oviedo or further along if time and distances are a problem. The ALSA goes through Grado and Salas so cutting a few days off the time if walking shorter days than many do.
You can join the Norte at Sobrado de Monxes if following a diversion after Lugo to Friol, rather than the Frances at Melide.

 

[KarenDBurns]

I disagree with the original post and have attached some comments. This route, imo, is maybe the best of the Camino's I have walked. Only a 345 word response.

Ultreya,
Joe

I completely agree, I loved the Norte. I was there September 2015.

 

[DragonShadow]

I recently (Sep-Oct 2016) walked the Norte from Irun to Luarca and then bused down to finished our last week on the Frances. The Norte, while definitely a challenge, has jaw-dropping scenery and views. I found the Spanish people to be warm and kind and forgiving of my very poor Spanish. For the most part the trail was well-marked. There were three of us and never had problems finding a place to stay but we were also willing to stay in pensiones if an albergue was not available. There was some road walking and I believe the government is looking and often succeeding in finding alternate off-road routes. With the exception of one stretch on the 634 which I would not do again, I thought it to be fairly safe and very little traffic.

 

[lunna]

Iran to Santander with the train from Bilbao to Castro Urdialles to allow a leasurily walk
Would avoid Ribadeo to Santiago like the plaque.

I think the Ribadeo to Santiago stretch was great!

 

[Kanga]

Yes, I loved Ribadeo to Santiago too. One of my favourite parts - actually one of the loveliest of all caminos. Why would you avoid it @Thornley? Beautiful peaceful green Galician pathways, lovely countryside, interesting villages and Sobrado.

 

[Thornley]

I think the Ribadeo to Santiago stretch was great!

Yes, I loved Ribadeo to Santiago too. One of my favourite parts - actually one of the loveliest of all caminos. Why would you avoid it @Thornley? Beautiful peaceful green Galician pathways, lovely countryside, interesting villages and Sobrado.

View attachment 30691

Because he was requesting walking the Norte and only had 2 weeks.
The first week is magnificent along the coast .
The last 2 days is amongst the crowds of Frances [ you hear them before seeing ]
That left him 5 days anywhere in a 400-500km radius.

I loved the last section Kanga , even the paving , but think Miraz , a great place to stop and enjoy friendships but where you actually loose a day by stopping.
He only has 2 weeks.
And Sobrado Kanga i remember fondly. After paying for accommodation a small group departed, us included, walked across the road to a nice hotel. Not enough loos mate for the masses.

 

[Denzil]

I think the issue here is what you write in your last paragraph: people doing the Norte have expectations and desires based on the CF. And I could not disagree more. Plus I don't believe the more hardcore walkers found on the Norte are there by accident, nor do they regret it. And this applies to the Primitivo as well.

I am glad there are no "camino families", glad it is solitary and not a tourist trap, with drunken fools at the albergues, or others getting the whole albergue up at 4am. I am also grateful for fantastic menus del dia vs the pilgrim menu.

I also could not disagree more regarding the albergues: many give you clean sheets, and by that I mean a full set right out of the industrial laundry cie, some also give you synthetic duvets. Others add in towels. TOWELS! San Vicente de la barquera is a disaster, but let's not forget San Juan de Oretaga on the CF. The youth hostel in San Seb gives you sheets, the Zarautz Hostel a duvet as well. Pobena is simple, but clean. The trainstation in Llanes also gives you all the bedding you need. No need to unpack! Pension in Portugalete 20€ for a single and the lovely woman who owns it will sew for you if in need. Albergue in Santillana is in a spectacular historical mansion, and the jet tub amd shower a treat (ok, tub jet don't work because pilgrims burned the motor on the fisrt night it was installed, but you can still soak in there for a while!)

Ok, I'll also grant you that the albergue in Santander is such a tight squeeze that I wonder how it is legal for it to have so many pilgrims, but then there is Albergue Piedad as an options in Boo: duvet, towels, shampoo, the works.

I for one hope the Norte will not change. I am hopeful that because of the greater distances between villages and towns it will remain more authentic, more in line with what the country, and its regions are.

Sounds really interesting. Thanks. Could you please tell me a little about the walking. Is the walk mainly on roads? busy roads? or are there tracks away from the road.
thanks Denzil

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Sounds really interesting. Thanks. Could you please tell me a little about the walking. Is the walk mainly on roads? busy roads? or are there tracks away from the road.
thanks Denzil

Hello Denzil,

From memory it is a combination of roads and foot paths, only a few stretches close to traffic but mostly very little walking in tractor tracks, which I hate. I would never discourage anyone from walking the Norte based on the terrain, based on my preference (hating walking in tractor tracks with ankles in an angle and having to keep swerving right and left). There was one place with little room to get out of the way from incoming trafic without seeing it but at the last minute, but it was in a farly quiet road (now that there's a highway trafic on secondary roads is now very light).

 

[PilgrimPillar]

Anyone can do El Norte to "their Camino" nowadays. Number albuerges are growing and I see great future for this route. To experience the true forces of the atlantic ocean up close is not to bee missed. Forces on communtities and nature also of equally importance....

Go for it!

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/el-norte-in-winter.44986/#post-472285

 

[Thornley]

He might be right about the force of nature seeing he walked it in the middle of winter.

 

[wayfarer]

Some posts have been deleted. Please respect other members points of view, rudeness is not acceptable nor will it be tolerated.

 

[wcsjms]

We are trying to decide about the Camino Norte', we did the Frances last fall (2016) and are desiring to walk the Norte' this fall. While reading all we can here it has left us a bit confused about the rigors of the Norte'. On one hand, we have read where a gentleman 65 yrs of age said while difficult in the beginning that he feel anyone can do it. Then we read where another gentleman says he is 25 yrs old, a runner and in shape relaying it was the hardest thing he ever did. So which is it, very difficult or a trek of lesser intensity. We are Bill(67) Joan (65) , for us the first few days of the Frances were brutal but then we gained our conditioning and while the trek was not easy it was also not unbearable. It seems that there is no concensus about the Norte' Way. Also, we have read where some have said it does not have the "Camino community" feel to it like the Frances. HELP !!!!

Bill & Joan

 

[PilgrimPillar]

I understand why one could get confused when reading different understanding/experience.

I've done Frances & El Norte. They differ of course but are the same. Both can challenge but we are as pilgrims on equal terms walking one or the other.

We all can do all, on our own terms.

I just loved having the atlantic ocean close in december....

Go for it!

Buen Camino

 

[Vanessa Oz]

I walked SJPdP to finisterre then onto Muxia in Apr/May 2014 - fabulous. This time (2017) I was going to do CP from Lisbon, but was put off by too many roads. Have opted for a balance - train to Tomar, bus to Fatima, bus to Porto - Walk to SDC starting 29/03 (12 days). Car to Santander - Easter in the region, bus to Axiles/Cudillero, Walk C del Norte to SDC 18/04 (15-18days). If all goes well I may have time to walk - SDC direct to Muxia, that's a wait & see.

I'm fortune to have the time to set a casual pace. Have always worn orthotics so had one's made to fit my boots wearing single pr socks cushioned base toe & heel, I use fixamol tape on any sensitive areas immediately they occur to prevent blisters.
Since CF I've developed osteoarthritis in my knee so if the walking\pain gets too much it will be transport (taxi, bus, tractor or donkey even) to next town or alburgue. Fortunately, like some members I can stay in a pensione or hotel if necessary (or I'm in need of luxury ie-soak in a bath). When not cooking I search for "non-pilgrim" eateries more fun than the "pilgrim menu".
My Spanish is very basic & my Portuguese is worse so lots of politeness, smiles, hand gestures & phrase book...no probs.

Thank-you every-one, all the previous notes & comments are valuable, it's obvious every-ones experience is different - good bad uphill down hill & everything in between. My conclusion is that is doesn't matter which Camino or part thereof you decide to do, it's an adventure, a personal experience.
Buen Camino

 

[PilgrimPillar]

 

[Satírico]

Greetings,
Writing as someone with a back issue and a knee problem, you will find some steep descents into cities such as Donostia and Bilbao but generally the gradients aren't too bad. The road-walking is considerable but at least it's an even surface. I'd say you are less likely to suffer on Day 1 than on the CF. If you start at Irun, be sure to wear high quality boots which can protect you from the stony ground. Your efforts will be richly rewarded and regarding the camino community, I met some lovely people with whom I am still in touch. I recommend staying at the youth hostel in Donostia and give yourself time to enjoy each city. Less camino history / more beaches and pintxos

 

[Duncan Idaho]

We are trying to decide about the Camino Norte', we did the Frances last fall (2016) and are desiring to walk the Norte' this fall. While reading all we can here it has left us a bit confused about the rigors of the Norte'. On one hand, we have read where a gentleman 65 yrs of age said while difficult in the beginning that he feel anyone can do it. Then we read where another gentleman says he is 25 yrs old, a runner and in shape relaying it was the hardest thing he ever did. So which is it, very difficult or a trek of lesser intensity. We are Bill(67) Joan (65) , for us the first few days of the Frances were brutal but then we gained our conditioning and while the trek was not easy it was also not unbearable. It seems that there is no concensus about the Norte' Way. Also, we have read where some have said it does not have the "Camino community" feel to it like the Frances. HELP !!!!

Hi Bill & Joel
I am half way through Norte, will return in early to do the next stage (Llanes to La Caridad). My view is that the Norte is doable but the first week or so from Irun to Bilbao I found exceedingly hard work. I would agree it was the toughest walking I have done - take the toughest days on the Frances and put them one after another for 6 or so days - thats the best way I have of describing my experience. A week on the Meseta I averaged 30km a day and felt fine - the first week on the Norte I averaged 22km and was pretty tired!!! After that (so far) the Norte is pretty comparable to the Frances in demands.

But is it worth it ? You bet. And to get through the first week just walk shorter distances... When I do it again (after another Frances, after the Ingles, after the Francigenia, after after after!) I would walk shorter days.

Commnity feel is there in the albergues in the evenings, less so than the Frances though. The path is much less trodden than the Frances.

Buen Camino

Duncan[/QUOTE]

 

[DragonShadow]

Please know that I have not walked the Frances so I cannot compare the two. I did walk the Norte in September and October of 2016 from Irun to Luarca after which we dropped down to the Frances for our final week. I am a 61 year old woman and have been active all my life. I trained for 6 months but since I live on the Chesapeake Bay, most of it was at sea level. The majority of my "hill" training was done at the local gym on a treadmill. Quite honestly, the first week of the Norte kicked major butt. From there on, there were still some tough climbs/descents and the elevations/inclines but with a couple days of flat or rolling hills. All that being said I could probably be convinced to do the Norte again because it was just so beautiful. I would perhaps recommend you start the Norte and then if it doesn't suit you, drop down to the Frances.

 

[kerdi]

Hi
Thank you for this summary of the conditions on the Camino del Norte,
I have walked the CF in stages (annual leave requirements) in 2013-2014, extending to Finisterre, Muxia and walking back to Santiago. I also walked the Camino Ingles together with my wife in late October 2014.
My third and current Camino is now the Camino del Norte.
We are living in the North East of England. In 2015 we went by car to Irun. We brought our daughter to a French Course to Biarritz, parked the car on the airport in Irun, and started from there with our dog. During ten days we walked from Irun to Laredo.
This walk had to be planned in detail. I had to find in advance places accepting the dog. This was in the end easier than anticipitated as we took all sorts of accomodation: Casa Rural, small hotels, a roadside motel.... As a consequence the stages have been between 20 and 36km (El Haya, Biscaya to Laredo).
We had one day rest in Bilbao and two in Laredo.
I came then back in April 2016 and restarted in Laredo. At San Vicente de Barquera I changed my short term plan and walked to the monastery of Santo Toribio in Liebana.
I hope to return this year to commence the Canino Norte.
The aspects you write in our comment are certainly correct, but my personal experience is completely different.
I am not fluent in Spanish, but it is enough to get along, have chat with the locals, listening to the news...
I enjoyed the Northern Camino very much. Clearly less developed than the CF it is in parts very basic, less creature comforts around (In April there was no bar, no shop, no ATM between Pesues and Potes - a few km before Santo Toribio, just an Albergue). The Camino Norte as far as I walked it is certainly physically demanding, weather wise offering everything from sun to rain. The landscape is breathtaking.

In the end, the Camino del Norte is so different from the CF, that I think it is not really comparable.

All the Best for your upcoming Caminos
KE

 

[kerdi]

Near Irun, on the Mountain Jizkaibel, view to San Sebastian

 

[kerdi]

At Santo Toribio, 5th May 2016

 

[Albert R]

Good Trekking All!
Sounds absolutely delightful!
The harder the better! It's supposed to be a pilgrimage! I'm looking forward to a September-October '17 window, but considering November. I'm doing lots of research and hardening up for the journey, glad to have found this forum!
See y'all on the Camino Norte!
Albert R

 

[Richard Smith]

>>
Thank-you every-one, all the previous notes & comments are valuable, it's obvious every-ones experience is different - good bad uphill down hill & everything in between. My conclusion is that is doesn't matter which Camino or part thereof you decide to do, it's an adventure, a personal experience.
Buen Camino[/QUOTE]
>>

This thread is very valuable to us as a couple planning our 2nd Camino Walk (first one was so great) and thank you to the original poster, that was a good download and conversation starter.

My take so far is that the Camino de Norte compared with Francais route is :-

Harder
Longer
More elevation ups n downs
Less social
more swimming
great scenery
maybe less food and coffee mid day
Less catered for/infrastructure-supported
A bit like it was a few years ago everywhere else
and = is basically what you make of it = as always

which I think is a great travel guide desription given things change for the route and for the person

Thanks to original poster for this thread

 

[Brunocguedes37]

Hi .

You did camino del norte cycling?

I already cycled the camino frances.
Do you think its harder . There are yellow arrows like in the frances? How many days you took?

 

[PilgrimPillar]

Glad you are motivated.....going parallell to a thundering coastline is something else

No cycling......juuuust walking

18 days it took.....in december....out of season ....with absolutely zilch worries around housing....that explains average 10 km's more pr day in my experience

It's not harder....you listen to your body and you are just fine

Go for it!!!

Buen Camino

PS

Going Levante next week

Follow me for updates along route

https://m.facebook.com/Caminodelevantemay2017-1444233982332771/

 

[intrepidtraveler]

Glad you are motivated.....going parallell to a thundering coastline is something else

No cycling......juuuust walking

18 days it took.....in december....out of season ....with absolutely zilch worries around housing....that explains average 10 km's more pr day in my experience

It's not harder....you listen to your body and you are just fine

Go for it!!!

Buen Camino

PS

Going Levante next week

Follow me for updates along route

https://m.facebook.com/Caminodelevantemay2017-1444233982332771/

Hi PlutseligPilegrim- it looks like you have set up your blog through Facebook. Is it basically the same as setting up a personal FB page? Do you invite people to follow it by sending out friend requests or by sharing the link via email or both? Probably really dumb questions in the eyes of the tech saavy, but I personally don't find a lot of this tech stuff to be intuitively obvious. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

[Sue Kranz]

I disagree with the original post and have attached some comments. This route, imo, is maybe the best of the Camino's I have walked. Only a 345 word response.

Ultreya,
Joe

Hello, it's April, 2017, and I've been encouraged to avoid the Camino Frances...I am interested in the Camino Norte and would like to read your piece. I can't open it...is it still around? If you can resend it, that would be great.

Gracias,
Sue

 

[jpflavin1]

Hello, it's April, 2017, and I've been encouraged to avoid the Camino Frances...I am interested in the Camino Norte and would like to read your piece. I can't open it...is it still around? If you can resend it, that would be great.

Gracias,
Sue

Hi Sue

Currently on the Frances in Burgos. I went back to November fourth and had no problem opening up the file under my post.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Jay Es]

We are cycling the Norte at the moment. No guide book, just following a photo copy of the map with historical bits of info and yellow arrows and way marks Sometimes we lose them and find them again. Without expectations of how far we make each day. It becomes the journey, the hills, yes, but the views too. Few pilgrims, lovely villages, warm hospitality of locals. Maybe the Frances is flatter, you can go further in a day, but 8 hours a day is 8 hours. It is the same amount of time on the go, so if the hills slow you down you just go less far.
All very lovely. Don't dismiss this route, just challenge expectation of the journey.

 

[Barbara06]

I don't understand why people like Wyvernsridg come all the way from Australia to Spain to look for english speaking people and to want to stick desperatly to a "family"... wouldn't it be better in that case to stay in Australia where everyone speaks english and try and find a family there ? there are such a lot of nice walking trails in Australia

 

[RFB]

I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.

As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.

I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.

Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.

I'm currently researching the possibilities of my walking the the Camino del Norte in 2018 and came across your thread from 2015 re why not to walk. I'm wanting to be as well informed as possible as I'll be walking alone as I did the Camino France last year. Unfortunately I'm unable to open your PDF and was wondering if it's possible for you to send this via my email..not sure if that's permitted in this forum but here's my email anyways should you receive this request and allowed to do so...(personal email address removed by Moderator. Please use the PM function) Sincere thanks RFB

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Unfortunately I'm unable to open [Wyvernsridge's] PDF

Try this link. I had no trouble getting the file using this:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ould-not-walk-the-camino-del-norte-pdf.22248/​

 

[HDD500]

Hi all,

I'm thinking of walking the first part of the Camino del Norte this September. I land in Biarritz on the Sunday and then plan to walk till Saturday. I have to fly home from Biarritz on Saturday evening. My question is how far can / should I aim to walk? Based on previous reading I think I can get to Guernica and then will have to bus, train, etc. back to Biarritz. Is this possible?

I'm 28 years old, pretty fit and regularly do long walks/hikes.

Thanks,
Henry

 

[DragonShadow]

Hi all,

I'm thinking of walking the first part of the Camino del Norte this September. I land in Biarritz on the Sunday and then plan to walk till Saturday. I have to fly home from Biarritz on Saturday evening. My question is how far can / should I aim to walk? Based on previous reading I think I can get to Guernica and then will have to bus, train, etc. back to Biarritz. Is this possible?

I'm 28 years old, pretty fit and regularly do long walks/hikes.

Thanks,
Henry

Henry, it took us a full week to walk from Irun to Gernika. That stretch is some of the most difficult on the Norte with lots of rocky ups and downs. Just the same, I suspect you may be able to shave a day or so off of our time as we were not fast walkers. Hope this helps.

 

[intrepidtraveler]

Henry, it took us a full week to walk from Irun to Gernika. That stretch is some of the most difficult on the Norte with lots of rocky ups and downs. Just the same, I suspect you may be able to shave a day or so off of our time as we were not fast walkers. Hope this helps.

I am more than old enough to be your mother and I made it to Gernika in 5 days so I suspect that you are capable of doing so as well. The footing on some of the trails in this section isn't the greatest. If you decide to go be careful - injury isn't a useful souvenir.

Buen Camino

 

[Richmond Gardner]

I think the issue here is what you write in your last paragraph: people doing the Norte have expectations and desires based on the CF. And I could not disagree more. Plus I don't believe the more hardcore walkers found on the Norte are there by accident, nor do they regret it. And this applies to the Primitivo as well.

I am glad there are no "camino families", glad it is solitary and not a tourist trap, with drunken fools at the albergues, or others getting the whole albergue up at 4am. I am also grateful for fantastic menus del dia vs the pilgrim menu.

I also could not disagree more regarding the albergues: many give you clean sheets, and by that I mean a full set right out of the industrial laundry cie, some also give you synthetic duvets. Others add in towels. TOWELS! San Vicente de la barquera is a disaster, but let's not forget San Juan de Oretaga on the CF. The youth hostel in San Seb gives you sheets, the Zarautz Hostel a duvet as well. Pobena is simple, but clean. The trainstation in Llanes also gives you all the bedding you need. No need to unpack! Pension in Portugalete 20€ for a single and the lovely woman who owns it will sew for you if in need. Albergue in Santillana is in a spectacular historical mansion, and the jet tub amd shower a treat (ok, tub jet don't work because pilgrims burned the motor on the fisrt night it was installed, but you can still soak in there for a while!)

Ok, I'll also grant you that the albergue in Santander is such a tight squeeze that I wonder how it is legal for it to have so many pilgrims, but then there is Albergue Piedad as an options in Boo: duvet, towels, shampoo, the works.

I for one hope the Norte will not change. I am hopeful that because of the greater distances between villages and towns it will remain more authentic, more in line with what the country, and its regions are.

I am considering a second Camino walk, after having walked the CF this year. Thanks for these insights. The longer distances, lesser crowds and seaside view- all appeal.

 

[hecate105]

I haven't walked/cycled the Frances - so I was rather impressed with the albergues when i found them - on the Norte and the Portugues. Because we had little info we had not expected such places to stay - and appreciated them as a 'luxury' compared to camping wild. Having cycled the VdlP this spring - I was even more impressed with the albergues on that route, but still camped some of the time.
The Norte is tough - and I found the hills/mountains quite horrendous at times, but mostly the scenery is so beautiful it made you forget the hardships. Being on a bicycle I could carry more food, so the lack of bars/shops did not overly bother me, but even when walking I always have at least a day's worth of food stashed away... (the idea of missing a meal would appal me...!)
We drove along the coast coming back from the VdlP - and passed many pilgrims trudging along... Even with the constant up and down, the inclemency of the weather and the fact we had cycled it backwards - we still started making plans to come back and walk the whole route!

 

[peregrina2000]

Just some general comments about the original post. Remember it is almost two years old now and things change quickly. I walked the Norte this summer, and I was surprised at the large number of new albergues. They are popping up everywhere, even on the "less traveled" part west of Villaviciosa, which is the Primitivo turnoff. Some of the nicest albergues anywhere can be found on this route.

Road walking can be greatly reduced -- I searched all over for coastal options when I was planning this walk and found that very often, a beautiful coastal path is about a km away from the Camino, which plods along the side of the national highway. I have a post that details them all, and I can't emphasize enough what a difference they made.

Cafes and bars -- I brought along my trusty electric coil, which I use on caminos where there are no pilgrims and very few bars, but found I rarely needed it.

Ups and downs-- Yes there are ups and downs, but before you shy away from this route because of them, look at the actual elevation gains in each stage. Impressions about what is hard vary a lot and are often influenced by things other than fitness levels-- weather, sleep the night before, scenery, etc. For instance, I think most people who walk the Ruta del Flysch on a cool sunny day from Zumaia to Deba will say something like, yeah that was a good workout, but OMG was it stunning! If you walk it in high summer with the sun beating down or in the rain, your impression is likely to be different.

Numbers are increasing rapidly, people report overflow crowds at a lot of the albergues. I didn't find that in June, so if you are going to walk, avoiding the high summer makes sense for a lot of reasons. For one thing, there is a LOT of tourist infrastructure in many of these towns, and when there are no tourists, the owners frequently lower their prices to make things affordable for pilgrims. Two bedroom (four bed) fully equipped apartments with kitchens, sheets, towels -- between 60 and 70 euros for four. Pensiones in the high 20s low 30s. Lots of choices if you go when there aren't a lot of tourists.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[oursonpolaire]

James there are lots on the north coast, but many are off the route, some a fair way. We were sometimes disappointed to arrive and find them closed; many are only seasonal and do not open until mid July.

Note, as well, that it is illegal to camp within (IIRC) 3km of an licensed campground. While I met a few young French pilgrims who managed wild camping, they usually had to go a few km from the Camino to find a site. Most of the del Norte passes through built-up or farmed areas, where it would be difficult. I met two Czech pilgrims who usually put up their tent in an albergue yard or garden. Given the ready availability of albergue and low-cost accommodation, I'm not sure if it's worth the bother of lugging camping equipment.

 

[Mario MP]

Norte cons:

1. Too much pavement
2. The lack of albergues; e.g. in Ribadeo there is one only
3. Bicylist peregrinos arrive first to the albergues and occupy places so walking peregrinos are in disadvantage. The hosts dont care

Norte pro:
It's simply fantastic

 

[waveprof]

Your first 4-5 points sound like good reasons to PREFER the Norte. Just sayin'

 

[Quiterio]

Can I just add my take on this. I've just returned from a week on the Norte. My friend and I are in our sixties and decided to eschew albergues in favour of posadas, offering a little more privacy and comfort.
We booked in advance through Booking.com, using the Editorial Buen Camino guide to determine what we thought would be (for us) realistic stages. And it turned out that we'd judged it fairly well, except ....
As the OP says, the infrastructure doesn't really cater for pilgrims!

We stopped for a night in a little hamlet high above Oyambre (between Comillas and San Vicente), and asked our hosts if there was a bar in the village where we could eat. Answer: no. So, is there a shop where we can buy some food? (since our accommodation had a kitchen). Answer again: no. He said the nearest shop was in Comillas, about 5 km back down the road we had just walked.

Later, our host's wife came to our rescue by both handing us a bag of goodies: bread, wine, cheese etc., and by telling us that 1.5km further on there was a golf club where the food was good and reasonably priced. So we didn't starve, but it made us nervous about our next stages: should we carry provisions, and if we did, would there be anywhere to cook? After that, little villages en route which looked as if they should have a little bar where a cold beer would have been so welcome, had none, or none open, and even a bar that was marked on Google maps turned out to be closed for the season.

By contrast, I will never forget Serdio, where we nervously asked our host, is there a bar open in the village? - Si. And do they serve food? - Si. And she laughed at our expressions of relief. But this little bar will remain in my memory for its convivial atmosphere (a great mix of pilgrims and locals) - its wonderful 'menu del dia', and its congenial staff. It felt like we had just stepped back 30 years in time.

What's the answer? My impression is that the whereas guides are quite comprehensive for those aiming to stay in albergues, those of us who look to the internet for accommodation run the risk of being asked (as we were) "You don't have a car ....?"

But it would be nice if those posadas, hosteles and the like that are on the route of the camino, showed awareness of the fact and listed the local facilities, just as they would car-parking, or whether they cater for pets. "Pilgrims note: nearest bar/restaurant 1.5km. Nearest shop: 5km" and so on. Probably just wishful thinking on my part!

 

[DragonShadow]

Can I just add my take on this. I've just returned from a week on the Norte. My friend and I are in our sixties and decided to eschew albergues in favour of posadas, offering a little more privacy and comfort.
We booked in advance through Booking.com, using the Editorial Buen Camino guide to determine what we thought would be (for us) realistic stages. And it turned out that we'd judged it fairly well, except ....
As the OP says, the infrastructure doesn't really cater for pilgrims!

We stopped for a night in a little hamlet high above Oyambre (between Comillas and San Vicente), and asked our hosts if there was a bar in the village where we could eat. Answer: no. So, is there a shop where we can buy some food? (since our accommodation had a kitchen). Answer again: no. He said the nearest shop was in Comillas, about 5 km back down the road we had just walked.

Later, our host's wife came to our rescue by both handing us a bag of goodies: bread, wine, cheese etc., and by telling us that 1.5km further on there was a golf club where the food was good and reasonably priced. So we didn't starve, but it made us nervous about our next stages: should we carry provisions, and if we did, would there be anywhere to cook? After that, little villages en route which looked as if they should have a little bar where a cold beer would have been so welcome, had none, or none open, and even a bar that was marked on Google maps turned out to be closed for the season.

By contrast, I will never forget Serdio, where we nervously asked our host, is there a bar open in the village? - Si. And do they serve food? - Si. And she laughed at our expressions of relief. But this little bar will remain in my memory for its convivial atmosphere (a great mix of pilgrims and locals) - its wonderful 'menu del dia', and its congenial staff. It felt like we had just stepped back 30 years in time.

What's the answer? My impression is that the whereas guides are quite comprehensive for those aiming to stay in albergues, those of us who look to the internet for accommodation run the risk of being asked (as we were) "You don't have a car ....?"

But it would be nice if those posadas, hosteles and the like that are on the route of the camino, showed awareness of the fact and listed the local facilities, just as they would car-parking, or whether they cater for pets. "Pilgrims note: nearest bar/restaurant 1.5km. Nearest shop: 5km" and so on. Probably just wishful thinking on my part!

The Wise Pilgrim app has just that kind of information. It will name every little village you will walk through and whether it has food, beds, transportation, medical facilities, etc. We did spend one Sunday night over a bar/cafe that as it turned out, did not serve food on Sunday. When we asked about food, the proprietor did take pity on us and went to her own kitchen to pan fry some salt cod and make us a salad. It was one of the best meals on the camino, perhaps because we thought we weren't going the get fed that night.

 

[peregrina2000]

And for those who are not big on apps, know that the Wise Pilgrim real paper book guide to the Norte is hot off the presses and available at a sale price at Ivar's store. https://www.santiagodecompostela.me/collections/camino-del-norte-items

I can also say that I have seen some of the pages of this guide and know that Michael will be including all of the coastal options he was able to find over the past years of walking and writing about the Norte.

 

[DragonShadow]

And for those who are not big on apps, know that the Wise Pilgrim real paper book guide to the Norte is hot off the presses and available at a sale price at Ivar's store. https://www.santiagodecompostela.me/collections/camino-del-norte-items

I can also say that I have seen some of the pages of this guide and know that Michael will be including all of the coastal options he was able to find over the past years of walking and writing about the Norte.

Thank you!

 

[Jay Es]

We cycled the Del Norte earlier this year. In May Off Road and On when the coastal route got way to tough on bikes. I can only describe what We found from our Camino from Santander to Santiago. (I know that the Bilbao section is tougher physically)
The day we joined the Frances from the Del Norte was a complete shock there was so many people. The del Norte was not quiet by any means, but over 1500 Pilgrims arrived in Santiago on the day we did, in early May. We saw plenty of reasons Why you should do the Camino del Norte to be honest. There was no dash to the Albergues, there was plenty of campsites too along the way. The cafes and bars we offering free Tapas with your beer, we could have just survived on these most days!
We met hospitaliers who were really kind and put them selves out for us, and seemed to still enjoy the hosting of Perigrinos on the Way.
High lights were being ale to bike on the coastal route and not having to keep to the tarmac. After we joined the Frances this was almost impossible because of the numbers of walking pilgrims, we decided it best not to use the paths as it would possibly cause unpleasant interactions with the walking pilgrims. And The monastery albergue at Dos Monxes. Wow what a place! The scenery in Galicia is awesome, those forest and moors are beautiful. (sadly lots of fires tis season)
So yes maybe there are hills, yes it does rain, yes there are fewer people, yes there are alternate routes, yes the cafes might be fewer.
My advise, as a 58 year old 50lb overweight cyclist with knackered knees.... don't let others tell you what you can do or what to think. Go and try it. take your time, train by doing either cycling or walking. Go for it.
Leave everything you think you know behind.. as well as most of the luggage you think you need.

 

[Kjcrowder]

Im on a ipad. Doesnt seem to work. Even an online pdf reader wont open the file.

Apples.....pffff

I️ opened it on my iPad. When you click on it you should get an option to open it in “iBooks”. Say yes and the document will open and be saved there if you need it as a reference later.

 

[Gypsyqueen]

We cycled the Del Norte earlier this year. In May Off Road and On when the coastal route got way to tough on bikes. I can only describe what We found from our Camino from Santander to Santiago. (I know that the Bilbao section is tougher physically)
The day we joined the Frances from the Del Norte was a complete shock there was so many people. The del Norte was not quiet by any means, but over 1500 Pilgrims arrived in Santiago on the day we did, in early May. We saw plenty of reasons Why you should do the Camino del Norte to be honest. There was no dash to the Albergues, there was plenty of campsites too along the way. The cafes and bars we offering free Tapas with your beer, we could have just survived on these most days!
We met hospitaliers who were really kind and put them selves out for us, and seemed to still enjoy the hosting of Perigrinos on the Way.
High lights were being ale to bike on the coastal route and not having to keep to the tarmac. After we joined the Frances this was almost impossible because of the numbers of walking pilgrims, we decided it best not to use the paths as it would possibly cause unpleasant interactions with the walking pilgrims. And The monastery albergue at Dos Monxes. Wow what a place! The scenery in Galicia is awesome, those forest and moors are beautiful. (sadly lots of fires tis season)
So yes maybe there are hills, yes it does rain, yes there are fewer people, yes there are alternate routes, yes the cafes might be fewer.
My advise, as a 58 year old 50lb overweight cyclist with knackered knees.... don't let others tell you what you can do or what to think. Go and try it. take your time, train by doing either cycling or walking. Go for it.
Leave everything you think you know behind.. as well as most of the luggage you think you need.

Hi there,
I have been planning my Camino del Norte ( April 2018 ) for nearly a year now based on a keen interest in the Basque country with its food/culture etc, mountains, sea and walking a less populated route. However, upon reading several posts I am in a dilemma, even though I am heartened by later experiences ( e.g yours ) posted several years after the initial one that came up upon joining this great forum. I am a pretty fit female in my late 50's ( turning 60 on the Camino ! ) from Far North Queensland, Australia who exercises at least 4 times per week-gym, yoga and walking some pretty tough walks, but I am now having second thoughts of doing the Norte. I am now concerned whether it will be too hard and also have a concern re beds for the night. Even though I have info re the actual route etc, I have never done an extended walk, especially a solo one, before. If anyone has any more feedback / experiences I would be really grateful. I guess I need reassurance.

 

[intrepidtraveler]

You will be fine. I am in my 60's and walked it solo this past year. Before you go, practice walking up and down hills a LOT. Wear your pack while you train. Take it slowly the first week or so when the terrain is more difficult (but still totally doable). I went in mid-May - June. If you are open to staying in private albergues and hostales, not just munis, beds are not a problem (July & August can be very busy). Go and have a wonderful time. Buen camino!

 

[DragonShadow]

Hi there,
I have been planning my Camino del Norte ( April 2018 ) for nearly a year now based on a keen interest in the Basque country with its food/culture etc, mountains, sea and walking a less populated route. However, upon reading several posts I am in a dilemma, even though I am heartened by later experiences ( e.g yours ) posted several years after the initial one that came up upon joining this great forum. I am a pretty fit female in my late 50's ( turning 60 on the Camino ! ) from Far North Queensland, Australia who exercises at least 4 times per week-gym, yoga and walking some pretty tough walks, but I am now having second thoughts of doing the Norte. I am now concerned whether it will be too hard and also have a concern re beds for the night. Even though I have info re the actual route etc, I have never done an extended walk, especially a solo one, before. If anyone has any more feedback / experiences I would be really grateful. I guess I need reassurance.

I walked the Norte at age 60 with two girlfriends. Like you, I considered myself fairly fit for my age. Was it challenging? Yes, the first week in particular from Irun to Bilbao was definitely a challenge but so worth it. The vistas were spectacular. I recommend using trekking poles, taking your time, resting on those challenging ascents and descents, and taking time to absorb the beauty around you. I had never done ANY long distance backpacking and during my training my longest walk was 8 miles. Since I live at sea level, I was not able to incorporate many hills while I trained. We met several women along the way that were walking alone and they did fine.

 

[Gypsyqueen]

You will be fine. I am in my 60's and walked it solo this past year. Before you go, practice walking up and down hills a LOT. Wear your pack while you train. Take it slowly the first week or so when the terrain is more difficult (but still totally doable). I went in mid-May - June. If you are open to staying in private albergues and hostales, not just munis, beds are not a problem (July & August can be very busy). Go and have a wonderful time. Buen camino!

Hi there,
Many thanks for your reply, I already feel better ! Yes I am open to staying in private albergues as well as the communal ones. Have another concern re my stops and places to stay-are you please able to suggest an itinerary/ route with mentioning places you bedded down for the night ? I am a bit overwhelmed with it all.

 

[Gypsyqueen]

I walked the Norte at age 60 with two girlfriends. Like you, I considered myself fairly fit for my age. Was it challenging? Yes, the first week in particular from Irun to Bilbao was definitely a challenge but so worth it. The vistas were spectacular. I recommend using trekking poles, taking your time, resting on those challenging ascents and descents, and taking time to absorb the beauty around you. I had never done ANY long distance backpacking and during my training my longest walk was 8 miles. Since I live at sea level, I was not able to incorporate many hills while I trained. We met several women along the way that were walking alone and they did fine.

Great to get another reply ! Yes, I use trekking poles already as where I live there are some very challenging walks and they have saved me on several occasions. Thanks for the tips, I appreciate all of them. Is it possible for you to suggest my itinerary and where you stayed for the night ?

 

[DragonShadow]

Great to get another reply ! Yes, I use trekking poles already as where I live there are some very challenging walks and they have saved me on several occasions. Thanks for the tips, I appreciate all of them. Is it possible for you to suggest my itinerary and where you stayed for the night ?

We stayed in a combination of private and public albergues, pensions, and hotels. For the private accommodations we used booking.com with good success and usually booked anywhere from a few hours to 24 hours in advance. You can take a look at my blog to get an idea or our itinerary. I'm in the middle of cleaning it up. Right now, it's in reverse order but it will give you an idea of what we did. www.threewomenoneway.com. I don't recall all the names of places we stayed but I will take a look and provide you with what I have written down.

 

[Gypsyqueen]

We stayed in a combination of private and public albergues, pensions, and hotels. For the private accommodations we used booking.com with good success and usually booked anywhere from a few hours to 24 hours in advance. You can take a look at my blog to get an idea or our itinerary. I'm in the middle of cleaning it up. Right now, it's in reverse order but it will give you an idea of what we did. www.threewomenoneway.com. I don't recall all the names of places we stayed but I will take a look and provide you with what I have written down.

Many thanks & will take a look

 

[Kanga]

@Gypsyqueen welcome to the forum from a fellow ozzie. You will be fine. Don't be overwhelmed - it is easy - just get yourself to Irun and start walking!

I walked it in April/May carrying a tent (don't - it is an unnecessary burden) and all that goes with it - 14 kilos. By far the heaviest pack I've ever taken on camino.

The Norte is no more arduous that the Camino Frances imo.

The first day's walk between Iran and San Sebastian is a stretch if you take the "alpista" route (highly recommended), but we stopped half-way and spent the night at Passai Doniban (aka Passai San Juan) which I really recommend - it is stunning, like a fjord. Steep steps everywhere. It only has a small albergue, in a church on a path to the right as you enter the village. It does fill up but if you leave Irun at a reasonably early hour you should get a bed.

Other than that first night, my suggestion is that you don't plan too much - no itinerary. It is a camino. Just walk and see how you go.

Although there are less albergues than on the Camino Frances, new ones open all the time, and because it is a tourist area there is plenty of alternative accommodation. When we stayed in non-albergue accommodation we only booked from day to day. I buy a local sim for my phone when I land in Madrid (there is an Orange shop at the airport) or if I'm going through France then I'd buy a sim in Irun.

I'm in Sydney but send me a PM if you want my phone number - happy to talk any time.

 

[Thornley]

I am now having second thoughts of doing the Norte.

It is a wonderful way and have no second thoughts whatsoever ,
But i would stay in the basque country as long as i could thus take extra days for the holiday.
There are a few villages within the first 10 days where you should stay for a few extra nights

 

[Gypsyqueen]

Hi Kang

@Gypsyqueen welcome to the forum from a fellow ozzie. You will be fine. Don't be overwhelmed - it is easy - just get yourself to Irun and start walking!

I walked it in April/May carrying a tent (don't - it is an unnecessary burden) and all that goes with it - 14 kilos. By far the heaviest pack I've ever taken on camino.

The Norte is no more arduous that the Camino Frances imo.

The first day's walk between Iran and San Sebastian is a stretch if you take the "alpista" route (highly recommended), but we stopped half-way and spent the night at Passai Doniban (aka Passai San Juan) which I really recommend - it is stunning, like a fjord. Steep steps everywhere. It only has a small albergue, in a church on a path to the right as you enter the village. It does fill up but if you leave Irun at a reasonably early hour you should get a bed.

Other than that first night, my suggestion is that you don't plan too much - no itinerary. It is a camino. Just walk and see how you go.

Although there are less albergues than on the Camino Frances, new ones open all the time, and because it is a tourist area there is plenty of alternative accommodation. When we stayed in non-albergue accommodation we only booked from day to day. I buy a local sim for my phone when I land in Madrid (there is an Orange shop at the airport) or if I'm going through France then I'd buy a sim in Irun.

I'm in Sydney but send me a PM if you want my phone number - happy to talk any time.

Hi Kanga,
So happy to receive another response and many thanks to you for replying. Very relieved to read about your experiences, especially about not planning too much, and tips -phone, bed for the night etc. Yes I would really love to talk to you before I head off in 8 weeks time. I'm flying from Melbourne, seeing my daughter, friends then off to Paris via Abu Dhabi. How do I send you a PM on this site ? Ta

 

[intrepidtraveler]

Hi there,
Many thanks for your reply, I already feel better ! Yes I am open to staying in private albergues as well as the communal ones. Have another concern re my stops and places to stay-are you please able to suggest an itinerary/ route with mentioning places you bedded down for the night ? I am a bit overwhelmed with it all.

You might want to pick up a copy of "The Northern Caminos" by Dave Whitson. Also the app editorial Buen Camino was great and the website gronze.com. Between those 3 resources you will find a wealth of information about distances between towns and where to find places to stay. About 4kms down the trail from Irun there is a private albergue Capitan Txmista. I stayed there the first night to make for a shorter full first day to San Sebastian. Alternatively, if you stay in Irun there are places to stay in Pasaje de San Juan which is about halfway to San Sebastian. All kinds of possibilities for making shorter, easier days until you get going. Also, don't forget about booking.com and airbnb if things are starting to look really busy.

 

[wisepilgrim]

There is not much camping on the Norte. We met friends in 2013 who camped all through France but sent their gear back as the entered Spain due to the dearth of camping facilities on the Norte.

This was not my experience at all. While I can't speak of the density of campsite on the Le Puy the Norte has more campsites per kilometer than any other camino in Spain. Somebody else put together a list of the ones that they stayed in, and there are more that didn't make their list because they were on a different variant. Here is their blog post: http://www.intothewideopen.com/?p=3351

 

[peregrina2000]

I walked as many of the coastal variants as I could and often went by campgrounds. One in particular sticks in my mind as absolutely beautiful. http://www.campinglapaz.com/

 

[Lexicos]

I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.

As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.

I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.

Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.

God'day Alex. Writing to you from Melbourne. It was useful to read your comments. It helps to better prepare and to know what to expect. You're quite right about seeking an alternative route to the French Way, once you've done that. My wife and I walked that one in 2017. We are thinking, tossing up rather, between the route from Portugal and the Northern one. Doing my homework now, for the hike in 2019 (March/April), and saw your post. Thanks for taking the time.

 

[Gypsyqueen]

Many thanks for your reply. Yes, I am open to both types- private albergues, communal albergues and hostels. And if I feel I need to send my pack on I will and I'm not going to feel guilty ! Are you able to give me any tips on the best private and communal albergues you stayed in ? I'm doing as much training and will begin with my pack on next weekend.

You will be fine. I am in my 60's and walked it solo this past year. Before you go, practice walking up and down hills a LOT. Wear your pack while you train. Take it slowly the first week or so when the terrain is more difficult (but still totally doable). I went in mid-May - June. If you are open to staying in private albergues and hostales, not just munis, beds are not a problem (July & August can be very busy). Go and have a wonderful time. Buen camino![/QUO

 

[long trails]

Has anyone done the Via de la Plata and the Norte? I am thinking they might be similar in terms of the overall camino experience?

I find some of the OP's original comments relates to my Via experience, although I did find the albergues to be very good, if a little lacking in pilgrims!

I gave up on the Via at Merida and hopped over the border to the Portuguese, which seemed more like the Frances. It was certainly much busier than the Via.

 

[lunna]

The Via de la Plata is quite different. First, obviously, it's an inland route. Second, there are far less persons walking this trail. Third, it is much more varied, in the sense that you are walking through the entire heart of Spain - what you lose in beautiful ocean views you gain in varied mountain ranges, meseta and other landscapes. Fourth, the Via de la Plata seems more 'real' if that makes any sense - as mentioned in my second point, given that there are far fewer persons walking this route, it is less social, but somehow, for me at least, more of a profound experience. Fifth, it should be easier to find available places to sleep along the Via de la Plata, though I almost had no problem finding places, albergues or otherwise, along the Norte as well. Sixth, it seems there was a lot less asphalt on the Via - which made walking a lot easier.

All this is not to say that the Norte isn't great - it is, and the sea views are second to none. It's just a very different experience. The first five days or so, especially, through the Basque country are simply amazing, though depending on your level of fitness, could be a little hard. The Norte also offers variations - there are actually three parallel routes, most of the time- the actual camino (yellow arrows/flechas), the GR (red-white), which is often closer to the sea, a bit more hilly, as well, and at places, the E9, which is even closer to the cliffs/water. And if that's not enough, there are local unmarked trails often right along the sea cliffs! The asphalt along the regular camino is a bit hard on the feet, so the other alternatives I mentioned can provide a bit of relief for the feet as well.

The advantage of both these trails is that they are not the mob scene that the Frances can be, and you will for sure be able - even on the Plata - to meet like minded folks along the way. You really can't go wrong with either, though, as is probably clear from the above, my favorite of the two was the Via de la Plata.

PS - My walks have all been in Sept.-Oct. or so.

 

[fridaybaker]

As an unabashed supporter of all things Camino, I always like posts that create some pushback to the rosy and glowing reports that we often read. I have to agree with the sense that in some ways the Camino del Norte has less of a "Camino feeling" than some of the others, like Vdlp, Primitivo, Invierno. This is undoubtedly because so much of this camino passes through towns on the coast that appeal to a big number of vacationers. If I were in the lodging business, I too would be much more interested in attracting vacationers than pilgrims. So that is one feature of the Norte that I think is immutable. We are just stuck with the fact that Pasajes, Santander, Castro Urdiales, Llanes, Luarca, Cordillero and the many other beautiful seaside towns are going to continue to emphasize the tourist trade over the pilgrim trade.

But insofar as you are talking about the physical accommodations and pilgrim amenities, I think that I could take your report and re-date it 2000 and title it "Camino Francés." And if you ask me whether I'd rather walk the Camino Francés in 2000 or in 2015, it would take me a nano-second to answer. So be careful what you wish for. If your Camino "coming of age" has been in the past few years, you are used to a standard of amenities on the Camino Francés that was unimaginable in 2000, much less in 1980 or 1990.

I think we are lucky that there are many less popular Caminos, like the Norte in their reduced number of pilgrims, but more like the Francés in terms of the illusive "Camino feeling." For those I can suggest the Salvador/Primitivo, the Invierno, the Vdlp, the Sanabrés, and the Aragonés, and probably a few I am forgetting. These are places where pilgrim accommodations lag behind the Francés "standard," to varying degrees, and in some cases there are essentially no other pilgrims, but in any event, they are all routes that leave no doubt in your mind that you are on a Camino, whatever that may mean to you. Buen camino,Laurie

Sorry to be so late in replying to this, but I'm planning my first camino and so am a newbie here. However, in all my reading, I've read the same thing about the VDLP: That it has "less of a 'Camino Feeling'". I wonder, exactly, what that "Camino Feeling" is, and if it's not something that simply reflects what the majority of peregrinos experience, and primarily on the SF Route. The vast majority of comments I've heard/read about the "Camino Experience", is mainly that it IS an "experience", and that the "social" aspect of it is paramount.

However, there are still a small number of us who look at the Camino as its original intention: The destination is the main point: There are walks and hikes the world over, but none of those have as their destinations Santiago. Which is are main goal. Although there may be friendships struck up, beautiful views, etc., those things are incidental to the point of the pilgrimage, not the purpose. For those of us who have the original intention of the Camino, we're not searching for a "Camino Feeling". The feeling follows, organically, from performing a pilgrimage, no matter the terrain, social opportunities, etc.

It is interesting to me to read about the differences in each route, but to a great extent, beside the point. I'll go the Northern Route regardless of poor lodgings, strenuous hikes, ugly, asphalt stretches, simply because it takes me to Santiago via some very meaningful places, such as Covadonga -another "destination". In the end, though: For many of us, each route is simply one way or another to get to Santiago via our feet. (So, yes, there is an element of the "experience", of course, but my point is simply that for many of us, that is not at all the main point.)

 

[Lirsy]

it takes me to Santiago via some very meaningful places, such as Covadonga

Don forget Oviedo. It is an Spanish saying that says "Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y deja al Señor". Translated it could be something like "Who goes to Santiago and not the Savior, visits the servant and leaves the Lord".

Buen Camino & Ultreia!!

 

[fridaybaker]

Lirsy, Thank you for the comment and the quote. I've heard that before and like it. It's easy for us to be so focused on some element or ritual of the Faith, and forget the central purpose. Pilgrimages, sacramentals, rituals, etc., are all meant only to bring us closer to Him!

We definitely won't miss Oviedo. Right now, our two deviations from the Northern Route/Primitivo are the Monastery at Gaztelugatxe and Covadonga. I think between those two, we will have about as long of a trip as we can accommodate; however, would love any other suggestions. This will likely be our only Camino, so we do want to visit as many important places as possible.

It looks like you are planning TWO Caminos in 2018? How wonderful. I wish you the best on them. Thanks again for your advice.

Buen Camino & Ultreia to you, too.

 

[Gypsyqueen]

You might want to pick up a copy of "The Northern Caminos" by Dave Whitson. Also the app editorial Buen Camino was great and the website gronze.com. Between those 3 resources you will find a wealth of information about distances between towns and where to find places to stay. About 4kms down the trail from Irun there is a private albergue Capitan Txmista. I stayed there the first night to make for a shorter full first day to San Sebastian. Alternatively, if you stay in Irun there are places to stay in Pasaje de San Juan which is about halfway to San Sebastian. All kinds of possibilities for making shorter, easier days until you get going. Also, don't forget about booking.com and airbnb if things are starting to look really busy.

Hi again,
Great tips thanks. I nearly have everything ready ( ordered D.Whitson's bk) but am a little overwhelmed as I want to stay in some places for two nights and may catch the odd transport but plan to walk 80% of the way to the end. Does gronze.com state what transport there is all the way from Irun to Santiago?

 

[Samantha Davies]

I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.

As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.

I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the
Camino del norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.

Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.

Very interesting article. I did the Camino del norte after completing the french and portuguese, and I would never recommend it to a newby. Everything is more challenging - from the quality of the path itself, finding the right ways, lack of accommodations and commodities for pilgrims. On the other side, it's more challenging and "real", as the first pilgrimage were more that way. Another plus is the stunning landscape and amazing food - best by far of any of the caminos.

 

[lt56ny]

I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.

As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.

I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.

Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.

I think almost every negative that you mentioned can either be turned into a positive by taking some of those alternative routes and walk with awareness and presence. What may happen may happen. I have a feeling the infrastructure has probably improved also. All that I have read leads to this hopeful conclusion.
As at least one other person mentioned the idea of encountering few or even no “Camino Families” is the biggest plus of all. To walk in solitude is heaven for me. To sleep in small Albergues and in the evening have a nice meal with a new friend and retire to a quiet (hopefully) Albergue sounds like heaven. I arrive in San Sebastián September 15 and go to Irun to start my walk on the 17th. One last thing, I am 64 and I know it will be tough at first and painful but there is no better feeling than feeling your body get stronger and stronger and after a couple of weeks walking as far or as long as your body tells you. On my other Caminos I could actually feel my body tell me, wake up or end your rest break, it’s time. Pilgrims walk!

 

[Scarlet Fez]

Well having walked the Frances Mid Sept to Mid Oct 2016 and then the Portuguese last October I find myself being lured back to consider the Del Norte but won't be able to do it all.
On the Frances on my own staying at mid stage accomadation I found the moving Community was great but you could still get your solitude. Last year in Portugal I found partially due to the positions of some of the accomadation in Towns that the opportunity to meet, greet and share the sight of blisters over a glass of something was very rare. That being said I did meet some wonderful people. I was glad though I walked this Camino with a friend and was grateful for his Linguistic talent as I am somewhat challenged on that front.
Del Norte looks stunning and a challenge but I will not have the time I doubt to complete the whole route. I am not overly bothered in making it to Santiago this time, so if I only had 2 weeks walking time where would folk suggest I started. The coastal views to me is part of the main attraction.
My plans are some what fluid but if up it happens I'm likely to be there starting late May, early June. I would be flying in from one of the London airports.

 

[Thornley]

f I only had 2 weeks walking time where would folk suggest I started. The coastal views to me is part of the main attraction

From Irun Scarlet and early on take your time , the first 2 days can be taxing.
Fly into Biarritz with Easy Jet [ Luton or Gatwick ] , fly home from Madrid
After Deba get the km's going as it goes inland
Have a great walk and enjoy the food.

 

[Scarlet Fez]

I take it you can get a train or bus from Biarritz to Irun?
It would appear now that I may not be restricted for time, but just recovered from a foot injury! So maybe just get out there listen to the foot, take my time and like on my previous Caminos just think about how I get home when I need to!!

 

[Thornley]

I take it you can get a train or bus from Biarritz to Irun?

Train takes 30 minutes.

 

[JD1]

I walked the Norte in 2016, now I'm considering to return to walk either the Norte or the Frances this year. Stupid question - what's a Camino Family?

 

[trecile]

I walked the Norte in 2016, now I'm considering to return to walk either the Norte or the Frances this year. Stupid question - what's a Camino Family?

A Camino Family is a group of people that you bond with and walk with for a few days, a week, or the entire Camino. Some people find a Camino Family, and others find several or none. It's all good any way that it happens.

 

[FreeManGo]

I did del Norte in July 2018 and I really feel like I have to defend it somehow. Even though this was my first camino and I didn't have any problems to complete it. I am thankful I had no injuries or other things that would end my journey prematurely.

I did the whole journey in 30 days including walking to Finisterre and Muxía. Of course, it's not as easy as sitting in an office, but stepping out of your comfort zone is surely one of the reasons, why people do it. We want to do something extra, that most people don't do. So yes, you will sweat every day. I've writen a blog post about the ordinary day in Pilgrim's life. However, it's also not something super difficult. If you can do one step, you can do thousands of them, just take your time and your pace. That's it. Simple as that. I don't like that people are complaining about the difficulty that much. It's just walking, no one is there to push you beyond your limits, people do not come there to feel miserable ...

Length of stages:
The length of your day should depend on your physical and mental state that day. There were rainy days when I decided to stop after 4-5 hours completely wet, but there were days when I happily walked for 10 hours, as I felt "man, this is a nice day for walking, I feel like I could walk 10km more". And I never had troubles finding a place to stay (I slept only in albergues and I never made a reservation). You can almost always choose of 2-3 differrent villages/cities as a destination for your day. It really all depends on you. You will always find a way/place.

Albergues:
It depends. I totally agree, there is less albergues than on other routes. BUT there is still plenty of them. From what I understood about camino Frances, it's like you don't have to plan anything and once you feel it has been enough of walking for a day, you find albergue in 15minutes anywhere. That's insane. Going on camino should not be a touristic trip and you should not feel comfortable as on a holiday. This is pilgrimage and you are calling yourself a pilgrim. So don't worry, you will have a place to sleep everyday.

Food:
Another thing people seem to be complaing sometimes, it's there isn't enough of food supplies on del Norte. Insane. It's like blaiming me because you were hungry today ... If you know, that you like to eat 3 snacks a day, then carry your snacks. I always carried more food than I needed (I had always some oats to go with water as emergency food, pasta for the rainy days when you really want some warm food in the evening, or some tuna can). You can find groccery shop in pretty much every village you meet. There are normal people living in them and they also have to eat something. So please, don't worry about not having enough possibilities to eat on your journey.

El Primitivo:
I decided to continue on Primitivo instead of Norte while on the road. I just felt like it would be nice change, to go to mountains. Well mountains. I think Primitivo is also little bit exaggerated, there are 2-3 challenging days, otherwise it's similar to del Norte. I am reasonable fit, nothing spectacular (mainly volleyball/badminton, little bit of swimming). The real challange begins in Melide, where you meet the Franch way I know, I wasn't ready for the crowds. The reasons why I went for Primitivo can be found here.

Spirit:
Probably the only thing I truly missed on del Norte, was some spirituality. It felt like 9/10 churches were closed and most of pilgrims took the camino as a purely physicall activity. Don't get me wrong, I am happy, that so many people walk the road, but I know I very much enjoyed every opportunity to go to church for few minutes and simply sit there in silence. That is pretty much the only thing that I missed on journey. There are some opportunities to go to church of course

Overall, if you think like del Norte is the way for you, it surely is If you would like to know more, follow me on my journey

 

[Teresafun]

I did del Norte in July 2018 and I really feel like I have to defend it somehow. Even though this was my first camino and I didn't have any problems to complete it. I am thankful I had no injuries or other things that would end my journey prematurely.

I did the whole journey in 30 days including walking to Finisterre and Muxía. Of course, it's not as easy as sitting in an office, but stepping out of your comfort zone is surely one of the reasons, why people do it. We want to do something extra, that most people don't do. So yes, you will sweat every day. I've writen a blog post about the ordinary day in Pilgrim's life. However, it's also not something super difficult. If you can do one step, you can do thousands of them, just take your time and your pace. That's it. Simple as that. I don't like that people are complaining about the difficulty that much. It's just walking, no one is there to push you beyond your limits, people do not come there to feel miserable ...

Length of stages:
The length of your day should depend on your physical and mental state that day. There were rainy days when I decided to stop after 4-5 hours completely wet, but there were days when I happily walked for 10 hours, as I felt "man, this is a nice day for walking, I feel like I could walk 10km more". And I never had troubles finding a place to stay (I slept only in albergues and I never made a reservation). You can almost always choose of 2-3 differrent villages/cities as a destination for your day. It really all depends on you. You will always find a way/place.

Albergues:
It depends. I totally agree, there is less albergues than on other routes. BUT there is still plenty of them. From what I understood about camino Frances, it's like you don't have to plan anything and once you feel it has been enough of walking for a day, you find albergue in 15minutes anywhere. That's insane. Going on camino should not be a touristic trip and you should not feel comfortable as on a holiday. This is pilgrimage and you are calling yourself a pilgrim. So don't worry, you will have a place to sleep everyday.

Food:
Another thing people seem to be complaing sometimes, it's there isn't enough of food supplies on del Norte. Insane. It's like blaiming me because you were hungry today ... If you know, that you like to eat 3 snacks a day, then carry your snacks. I always carried more food than I needed (I had always some oats to go with water as emergency food, pasta for the rainy days when you really want some warm food in the evening, or some tuna can). You can find groccery shop in pretty much every village you meet. There are normal people living in them and they also have to eat something. So please, don't worry about not having enough possibilities to eat on your journey.

El Primitivo:
I decided to continue on Primitivo instead of Norte while on the road. I just felt like it would be nice change, to go to mountains. Well mountains. I think Primitivo is also little bit exaggerated, there are 2-3 challenging days, otherwise it's similar to del Norte. I am reasonable fit, nothing spectacular (mainly volleyball/badminton, little bit of swimming). The real challange begins in Melide, where you meet the Franch way I know, I wasn't ready for the crowds. The reasons why I went for Primitivo can be found here.

Spirit:
Probably the only thing I truly missed on del Norte, was some spirituality. It felt like 9/10 churches were closed and most of pilgrims took the camino as a purely physicall activity. Don't get me wrong, I am happy, that so many people walk the road, but I know I very much enjoyed every opportunity to go to church for few minutes and simply sit there in silence. That is pretty much the only thing that I missed on journey. There are some opportunities to go to church of course

Overall, if you think like del Norte is the way for you, it surely is If you would like to know more, follow me on my journey

I am walking the Norte right now. Taking a rest day in Balbao. I agree with everything you say. I am not so physically fit so my walks are challenging every day. A step at a time is a step closer to Santiago. Love staying at the hostels but enjoying a cheap Pensión on my rest day. Would love to see more churches open but the memories and the people I have met I will cherish forever.

 

[Shippers]

I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.

As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.

I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.

Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.

I did the Camino Norte in September 2018 and I wish I had read Alex's comments before I went. In short, I agree with a lot of what he says. I have done the the full CF and been back twice for 14 day sections so I do have something to compare it with. At Llanes I bailed out and bussed on to the Primitivo which was fantastic by comparison.

I found that about 60% of pilgrims had done the CF and wanted to try a different route. There were far fewer English speakers, which isn't a problem just an observation and for some maybe an advantage. There was a lot of road walking, and when I say road walking I mean cars going past your elbow at speed not just walking on asphalt. There was insufficient accommodation in smaller towns in the earlier stages which resulted in tens of pilgrims (every day) taking the train on to Guernica and Bilbao. It gets better after Santander but by then I had had enough. I found the camaraderie and atmosphere on the CF and Primitivo to be so much better.

It felt like the real Spain but a Spain that didn't really want you to be there. There have been anti-camino demonstrations in San Sebastian and there is a lot of anti-tourist graffiti. Sorry to say that pilgrims are seen as bad tourists because we don't spend enough. I now recall meeting people on the CF who had abandoned the Norte a week or two in. It never occurred to me to ask why. Now I know.

If you go for the Norte good luck to you and I hope that your experience is better than mine.
Simon.

 

[Teresafun]

I did the Camino Norte in September 2018 and I wish I had read Alex's comments before I went. In short, I agree with a lot of what he says. I have done the the full CF and been back twice for 14 day sections so I do have something to compare it with. At Llanes I bailed out and bussed on to the Primitivo which was fantastic by comparison.

I found that about 60% of pilgrims had done the CF and wanted to try a different route. There were far fewer English speakers, which isn't a problem just an observation and for some maybe an advantage. There was a lot of road walking, and when I say road walking I mean cars going past your elbow at speed not just walking on asphalt. There was insufficient accommodation in smaller towns in the earlier stages which resulted in tens of pilgrims (every day) taking the train on to Guernica and Bilbao. It gets better after Santander but by then I had had enough. I found the camaraderie and atmosphere on the CF and Primitivo to be so much better.

It felt like the real Spain but a Spain that didn't really want you to be there. There have been anti-camino demonstrations in San Sebastian and there is a lot of anti-tourist graffiti. Sorry to say that pilgrims are seen as bad tourists because we don't spend enough. I now recall meeting people on the CF who had abandoned the Norte a week or two in. It never occurred to me to ask why. Now I know.

If you go for the Norte good luck to you and I hope that your experience is better than mine.
Simon.

Simon: I agree with everything you stated. I am on the Norte route right now. I have stayed in some pensions, I plan for my breakfast or lunch when services are limited. I would like to see more churches. Too much pavement and highway walking. I think the cars got points if they scared the pilgrims. Didn’t seem like they really wanted us there. Very few walkers but met some awesome people. Almost there

 

[trecile]

I found more Camino "spirit" on the Norte after the split with the Primitivo. And it also became easier to find a bed.

 

[Fromista]

I saved it too, thanks it was very useful document.
What is the best season to walk Norte in your opinion?

 

[trecile]

So, I didn't read the linked document in the OP before I walked the Norte. I just wanted to point out that the Youth Hostel Roberto Frasinelli in Ribadesella that the OP raved about is no longer a viable option - at least in the summer months, as it has been taken over by a surf school.

 

[Hansel]

Just some general comments about the original post. Remember it is almost two years old now and things change quickly. I walked the Norte this summer, and I was surprised at the large number of new albergues. They are popping up everywhere, even on the "less traveled" part west of Villaviciosa, which is the Primitivo turnoff. Some of the nicest albergues anywhere can be found on this route.

Road walking can be greatly reduced -- I searched all over for coastal options when I was planning this walk and found that very often, a beautiful coastal path is about a km away from the Camino, which plods along the side of the national highway. I have a post that details them all, and I can't emphasize enough what a difference they made.

Cafes and bars -- I brought along my trusty electric coil, which I use on caminos where there are no pilgrims and very few bars, but found I rarely needed it.

Ups and downs-- Yes there are ups and downs, but before you shy away from this route because of them, look at the actual elevation gains in each stage. Impressions about what is hard vary a lot and are often influenced by things other than fitness levels-- weather, sleep the night before, scenery, etc. For instance, I think most people who walk the Ruta del Flysch on a cool sunny day from Zumaia to Deba will say something like, yeah that was a good workout, but OMG was it stunning! If you walk it in high summer with the sun beating down or in the rain, your impression is likely to be different.

Numbers are increasing rapidly, people report overflow crowds at a lot of the albergues. I didn't find that in June, so if you are going to walk, avoiding the high summer makes sense for a lot of reasons. For one thing, there is a LOT of tourist infrastructure in many of these towns, and when there are no tourists, the owners frequently lower their prices to make things affordable for pilgrims. Two bedroom (four bed) fully equipped apartments with kitchens, sheets, towels -- between 60 and 70 euros for four. Pensiones in the high 20s low 30s. Lots of choices if you go when there aren't a lot of tourists.

Buen camino, Laurie

I am working my way slowly through the original thread, and got to your reply, the only thing that would put me off any walk, would be road walking, coastal paths, sound ideal, Bill

 

[Dawn Blais]

I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.

As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.

I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.

Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.

 

[Dawn Blais]

I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.

As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.

I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.

Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.

Hmmm...I must have walked a different Camino Del Norte.

 

[Achillies11711]

I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.

As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.

I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.

Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.

Very usuful as I plan my Camino in the coming month. Thank you

 

[André Walker]

Different people, different desires, different wishes, different needs, different expectations.

I've walked 4 Camino's (so far), each time starting without expectations. Hardly ever preparing for it otherwise than checking out the daily distances, to see if these would suit me. Otherwise: I didn't bother finding out everything in advance. I prefer to be surprised by things on a day-to-day basis, not knowing what the next day has in store for me.

This is how I have walked the Del Norte in 2016 as well. Hardly prepared, making no reservations in advance. I only booked a flight to San Sebastian Airport (which is in Irun). And (again) I had the time of my life. Enjoying the stunning landscapes and ocean views, the lovely towns and cities. and having a number of very meaningful encounters with fellow pilgrims (like I did on my other Camino's). I'm still in touch with a couple of them.

The Del Norte was not as crowded as the Frances (I'm glad to say), but still, enough pilgrims to spend time with in the albuergues or restaurants.

I managed to walk from Irun to Santiago only staying in albergues. Even the first stage from Irun to San Sebastian (25 or 26 km.) was okay: a bit of climbing, but not too bad. When I started the Del Norte, I wasn't sure if I would finish it, or branch off onto the Primitivo. When I reached the point where I had to make the decision (where the yellow arrows on the road branched), I stood there for about 10 minutes and then decided to continue on the Del Norte, simply because I had enjoyed it so much until then. I never regretted it (although I will probably return to walk the Primitivo anyway).