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Pajares came with a real sense of achievement. The view is unforgettable. There was a point in the later stages where I thought about taking the train. I can't remember the name of the place, it's where there's mile after mile of cycle track along a river and lots of stations for the regional...
There's definitely no shortage of supermarkets and cafes/restaurants from Pola de Lena onwards. On the earlier stages I'd say eat when and where you can, don't pass up the opportunity for a good meal. The best place to carry food is in your belly :)
If I was doing it again I'd stock up in Leon...
The Salvador is a surprisingly tough route, especially at this time of year when it is so hot. It really took its toll on me. I was reasonably fit going into it, used to Scottish hillwalking, I thought it would be OK. I was hurting so much that there was no joy in reaching Oviedo, I just wanted...
Seven days sounds a good plan. I did it in 5 and it was tough going, the extra couple of days would make for a much more relaxing walk.
I never knew at the time about calling the custodian of Santa Cristina. That's the one thing I regret. The inside looked beautiful. The pre-Romanesque churches...
Wow I walked the end of August last year and saw only one other pilgrim. Although a day behind me was a humungous group from one of the Camino societies along the route walking to Oviedo. I saw maybe 30 arrive the next day.
I found they were both essential at different points. Ender's guide has photos of the whole route which makes wayfinding really easy. There were a few points that having a pictorial guide saved a lot of backtracking.
I think the walk out of Poladura up to Ender's cross was my favourite. Reminded me very much of the Scottish highlands. There is another pre-Romanesque church in Arbas tomorrow.
Dont be fooled by the short trek to Pajares. Some of it is pretty slow going. What really slowed me down was deciding...
There is a Camino association in Carbajal, I saw them in Oviedo last year. They were having a big celebration in the cathedral square, it was some important anniversary and a HUGE group of them had walked the Salvador a day behind me. Must've been at least 20 walkers (and maybe double that...
I really was jaded by the time I reached Oviedo! I'll happily admit it! In Mieres I was in the mood for good cider, food, people so it appealed. In Oviedo I was exhausted, feeling rather cynical towards the more esoteric aspects of pilgrimage (long story) and was ready for home without the 2 day...
Good to see a positive review of the albergue in Poladura del Tercia! It gets quite a beating but I found it cosy and comfortable. Luis was a very friendly and kind host too.
Funny, I found the river route from Pola de Lena absolute hell! Miles of tarmac and urban sprawl! Hated it and wished...
Those are the same stages I did, Rachael. I'd really recommend stopping in Mieres on the last stage, it's a really long day if you do it in one hit. It actually spoiled my whole experience of the Salvador, I was so miserable on the last day I just wanted to finish, stuff myself with food in...
I found the Pola de Lena to Oviedo (34km) stretch to be the worst of them all. The long stretch by the river to Mieres especially. Lots of tarmac walking, lots of civilisation. It's the one stage I'd happily skip.
I'm pretty sure there were blankets in the albergue. It's a bit scruffy but it's a donativo and cant see many guests over the year. I couldnt get hold of the people from the B&B so ended up in the albergue next door.
I'd agree... poles are really useful! I wouldnt normally carry them but glad I...
I found having both guides was very useful, they're pretty short so dont take much weight. The pictures in Ender's guide are really useful, just about every important point is shown. I'd also read some of the (very long) Salvador threads, particularly the one on Puerto de Pajares.
It's a lovely...
The Spanish road map I am looking at at the minute shows Camino paths as a sort of Roman road paving type pattern. It shows the route running up the river all the way to Cabanillas.
I wondered the same thing in August. The guides said the Camino followed the Rio Bernesga out of Leon so when it...
I don't know about in state schools but I'm pretty sure I saw a big Asturian language school near the cathedral in Oviedo.
It's good to see, as a fellow Celt I regret not having the opportunity to learn our native language at school.
I know number 6, I took the same picture. It's on the path along the river from Cabanillas to Cascantes, somewhere near La Seca.
The others I have no idea!
Day 1, I got the bugs too (last week of August). They weren't biting but just flying round my face. Really irritating and made it hard to enjoy the woods. I had a bug net but it was too hot to wear it.
Day 3, I thought Pola de Lena would never come. It felt like I was walking through its...
Very sad. When I was there in August all the mining towns were covered in protest graffiti about mine closures and cutbacks, when mining dried up in Scotland I remember the devastation it caused for years and had a lot of sympathy. For this to happen now on top of all of that must be really...
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