Here are the ancient Asturias rules for how they decided on the Primitivo route back in ancient times: 1) Is there a hill? Go straight up it. 2) Is there an alternative possibility around the hill? See rule 1.
This summer I flew to Santiago and then got the bus to Oviedo (about 6 hours). Vueling fly into Coruña and you could get the narrow gauge train from there to Oviedo.
Highlights: Grado on a Sunday, Salas, the Albergue at Bodenaya, Hospitales, the descent to the dam at Grandas de Salime, the youth hostel at Castro, Lugo, the church at Boente...
As far as the first 3 stages are concerned, I’d do Oviedo to Grado and then Grado to Salas, with a short day to Bodenaya. Cornellana is amazingly unremarkable, while Salas is gorgeous.
Well the muni n Grado only has 16 bunks so it is hardly surprising that it should fill up quite quickly, especially as it is actually quite a comfortable albergue with full time volunteer hospitaleros and good facilities.
There are over 60 other beds available in the town at between 10 and 15...
Hello,
Have been sat here in Lugo since Wednesday night giving the plates a bit of a rest and contemplating the Primitivo so far. Heading towards the madness of the last 50km of the Frances tomorrow.
I have been carrying with me and using the latest (2019) edition of the Wise Pilgrim guide...
Hello,
I’m in Lugo now. After I left Grado the only place I couldn’t get a bed was Grandas de Salime. I had to walk on to Castro where I got the last room in a rather charming casa rural. I normally start around 8 and I’ve been a bit of a stroller this time so I’m often amongst the last to...
Well yesterday was quite mad. Not only Grado was full but also the next 2 albergues 5 and 6 kilometres away. We ended up looking after 21 pilgrim's last night, 5 more than we have bunks for.
Should be OK on the Frances. A lot more choices of where to stay and a lot less distance between. The nature of the Primitivo means that there are a lot fewer “in between” opportunities to find a bunk than on the Frances.
I’ve been in Grado for a week now and every day there have been enough pilgrims to fill the Albergue when we open the doors at 2pm; the first ones are turning up at around 11.45 having walked the 26km from Oviedo.
The last few nights the town has been absolutely rammed with pilgrims; so much so...
The Albergue at Bodenaya takes bookings. Would definitely recommend booking two or three days in advance. Visited there today to say hello...lovely place run by lovely people. Will be staying there in 10 days, and have booked a place there already.
There are a lot of people on the Primitivo at...
Most of the pilgrims here have walked from Oviedo, 26km away. The egress from Grado is a steep climb and it is quite warm. How much further should I tell them to walk?
yes, we are hospitaleros, not the distance police! Most of the walkers who stop here have walked from Oviedo, some 26km away.
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