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I started from SJPDP on September 1, 2023 and it was not too crowded, The weather was warm for the first half of September on my Camino but got chilly going into October. If you start in mid-September bring some warm clothes.
I walked down from Roncevalles to Zubriri September 2nd 2023 in the pouring rain which made it the most difficult and dangerous day on the Camino. I wish I had known of an alternative path.
Yes, I stayed at the Hospitál San Nicolas. It was one of the most memorable stays on the Camino. The Italians were the best hosts. They fed us, washed our feet, prayed, sang, and shared our stories. The 1100-year-old church has no electricity but an outbuilding is behind it with some solar power...
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