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I’ve finished updating the gpx tracks for the Mar following my walk; within a short time, they’ll be uploaded to the Cicerone book page. For now, though, here are some quick-and-dirty maps to help you visualize what has changed. (Apologies in advance--I was in too deep before I realized I should...
A lot will depend on a) the decisions you make on Mar vs. coastal variants, and b) how much of a priority you place on staying in campgrounds. As a frame of reference, here's the stage table from the front of the book:
So, for example, you could stay at campings after Catedrais (20km-ish) or...
No worries! I know there are campings near Catedrais, just after Foz, in Viveiro, and in Valdoviño. You could probably pitch a tent in some of the Áreas de Autocaravanas--I've read there are toilets and showers at the one in Ortigueira. It's very easy to free camp elsewhere, though.
Years ago, I remember staring at a map of the different Caminos. OK, that part is hardly unusual, even today. But at that time I was focused on the blank space on the northern coast between Ribadeo, where the Camino del Norte veers inland, and Ferrol, where the Camino Inglés begins. Wouldn’t it...
I wouldn't count on it, Chris and Marc. There just isn't sufficient traffic yet for a business to be drawn to this on the Mar. Your best bet would probably be to play the FEVE hopping game, setting up a base camp at a particular accommodation for a few stages, leaving your pack there, and then...
OK, last one for the Mar:
7) San Andres de Teixido to Ferrol
This is a long but potentially workable "stage" if you're following the Mar (interior approach) direct from Teixido to Naron. I was following the coast. That might make more sense as three stages. Hell of a day, just awesome and...
Yep, I think that idea makes the most sense. You get the great walk down to Cedeira, and then it's not too long to close the gap to O Porto do Cabo. Hope that goes well. And glad to hear you enjoyed the Mar direct to Cuiña. I love the bridge crossing--discovering the map of the Teixido route on...
OK carrying on the notes...
5) Viveiro to Cuiña
Oliva at Oli Vita confirmed for me that my rendition of the Mar for this stretch remains accurate, so that left me heartened and confident to go full coast for this section, as the Cantabrico splits with the Mar just after Covas and doesn't...
I just arrived. This may well be the nicest room I've had in my life. It has a second floor! I was thrilled to just have the chance to overnight in Teixido for the first time, and I proctored an extended-time AP exam to offset the cost, but the quality of the place is remarkable.
Yeah, today was hotter for sure. Looped around the coast from Viveiro to Cuiña. Awesome, awesome walk. Maybe the best coastal stretch of the Mar... but that last part, from Ladrido, is bleak. Not ideal during the hottest part of the day, but what can you do? I'm stoked to climb back up to San...
If they have them, I didn't see (or hear) them. And in fairness, the route may have always "officially" gone through Xove, but I looked everywhere for a waymark last time and came up empty.
Aayer, the only way I've gotten water on the Viveiro-Cuiña Mar walk is by knocking on doors. I'll update you on the other stage tomorrow--while I'll follow the coast around, I'll overlap with the Mar through Ponte de Mera, and I'll have my eyes peeled. There is a tabac in Ponte de Mera that...
I am sorry to report that Arume is permanently closed! (And sorrier to note that, as a vegetarian, I am supremely ill-positioned to benefit from the spectacular seafood offerings along the Mar. At least I was able to grab a falafel, as all supermarkets are shuttered for the holiday.)
4) San Cibrao to Viveiro
The big news is that clear waymarks now guide pilgrims through Xove. The Mar splits with the Cantabrico soon after Hotel/Bar O Castelos, and the yellow arrows are clear. For a bit
However, after turning left onto a dirt track, they become very spotty. For the most part...
It's awesome to be back on the Camino do Mar, and to really see the route taking shape. When I came here the first time, it was like a treasure hunt, cobbling together an almost useless map with comments from a handful of forum members, and then searching assiduously at every trail intersection...
I'll add--if you reach out to the Oli Vita Hostel in Viveiro, I bet they'd help you sort out transport to and back from Esteiro. They're huge Mar advocates.
Back when I was scouting, I saw that and was excited to discover it. The feedback I got at the time, though, was that it was more of a space for youth group and wasn't a place for pilgrims to spend the night. I don't know if there's a possibility of that shifting with the Mar's recognition, but...
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