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We didn't see those lights because we didn't leave Saint Jean until 11ish, a bit of a mistake as we arrived in Roncesvalles just as the night closed in around us.
The Beast of Gévaudan, not far before Aumont-Aubrac. The Beast was a mythological creature likely based on real (historical) attacks by wolves in the area and generated a lot of concern, even hysteria at the time.
We might just have hit a sweet spot in 2005, the lack of communication that you describe was there and the CJS was our guide (along with The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago : The Complete Cultural Handbook, which every pilgrim should carry). However, the path had likely been rerouted since 2002 to...
We knew very little about the Camino Francés when we set out. in fact we'd never heard of it until a friend came back from Spain with fabulous stories of walking a pilgrimage in Spain. But six months later, in the autumn of 2005, inspired by Robert’s stories and in need of respite from the...
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