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  1. alhartman

    Descent into Roncesvalles

    ALWAYS take the safest route!! It is a wonderful 35 day walk not to be ruined by impatience or shortcuts. Down to Roncesvalles Downhill into Zubiri. Downhill into Molinaseca. Some paths down from Vilacha. Come to mind.
  2. alhartman

    Unexpectedly feminist pilgrimage

    Love this thread!! It is so much like so many of the albergue dinner conversations. Meaty, informative, and lots of respect and empathy.
  3. alhartman

    Cruz de Ferro

    FWIW, here is the Foncebadon/Cruz page from Brierley's 2003 edition that I used in 2005
  4. alhartman

    Ashes on the Frances

    Samos
  5. alhartman

    The French on the French Way

    One of the few playlists I have on my iphone for earbud listening as the albergue is settling in for sleep is: "Chanson"--a compliation of all the Piaf, Brassens, and Brel music cd I could find in my local library. A great listen IMO.
  6. alhartman

    Camino Francés Federación to ban suitcases in their albergues (11 albergues affected by this rule)

    I dont see this so much as 'pilgrims vs tourists', but a matching of traditional pilgrims to limited 'cheap' beds in a total of less than 20 albergues out of many hundreds of other accommodations available. Probably a good thing for the 'traditional' pilgrim. Suitcase travelers and luggage...
  7. alhartman

    Camino Story on CNN

    My hiking companion in 2005 and I met a German girl in Tricastela; they clicked at dinner and he followed up by email and a meetup in Paris. She moved in with him in LA in 2007; they were married in 2008. A very happy marriage even with a 25 year age difference and a language difference. He...
  8. alhartman

    Average daily expenses?

    2016 With adult daughter. Leon to SdC 19 nights. eu44.74 pppd cash plus 6.08 in charge slips. So 50 eur per person per day. A mix of everything but no scrimping--and no splurging. Just common sense. Probably well inflated into 2023. My first 2005 pilgrimage was $30 (23 euros) per day--same...
  9. alhartman

    Albergues between Ponferrada and Santiago

    Last walk was 2016, but Pequeno Potala In Ruitelan was one of the best communal experiences with Hosts Luis and Carlos. And sets up for an easier walk up to Ocebreiro. And Fonfria, at the round house across the road is always good communal meal to meet fellows. (Pension a reboleira)
  10. alhartman

    Leaving mementos of loved ones in the CF

    I left a small fetish from my wife's necklace in 2005 in a crack in one of the buildings behind the Samos Monastery. And another in the rocks at Finistere. Good grief resolution for me.
  11. alhartman

    Seeking full stage itinerary from SJPP to Finisterre

    May be early data, I know the Brierly is from my 2005 edition.
  12. alhartman

    Seeking full stage itinerary from SJPP to Finisterre

    From my notes, the stages from 3 main sources. Day Brierly Amis.fr Gronze 0 SJPDP SJPDP SJPDP 1 Roncesvalles Roncesvalles Roncesvalles 2 Larrasoana Larrasoana Zubri 3 Cizur Menor Cizur Menor Pamplona 4 Puenta La Reina Puenta La Reina Puenta La Reina 5 Estella Estella Estella 6...
  13. alhartman

    Backpacks only policy in Albergues: A common restriction?

    Early May 2005 Castrojeriz. My first camino was a big bedrace. My companion had blown his knee out first day over the Pyrenees and was hitchhiking in parallel and mostly staying in B&B types. I made pretty good time from Hornillos- 20km before 1pm. In line with the other pilgrims on the stairs...
  14. alhartman

    LIVE from the Camino I’m on my way

    Rest days never worked well for my body; but several 5-10k days did. And sometimes using a taxi early or late in the day to keep walking under 2-3 hours. Yes, break the 'RULES". Except the one that says listen to your body.
  15. alhartman

    Best Unique and Comfortable Albergues on the Camino Francés with Communal Experiences

    IMO MMe Roncal is one of the 'legends of the Camino'. Along with Marcelino Lobato, the 'Fonfria Crepe Extortion Lady', Fr Jose Maria Alonso, Tomas Martinez, Jesus Jato, Eduardo Marino, Gordon Bell, and others that don't come to mind quickly anymore. And I always stop at Pequeno Potala in the...
  16. alhartman

    Detour to see the Eunate Church

    Stopped there in 2008 finishing the Aragones. It is a must do and seemed at the time to be maybe 1km from the CF but Gronze says 2.5--so just a half hour each way. Seemed pretty easy and well marked. DId have tea and snacks with the hospitalero and wish we had been able to stay. IMO part of...
  17. alhartman

    Pyrenees in November

    I'd suggest starting in Pamplona to eliminate the winter risk in the Pyrenees. Although many guides start at SJPdP, there is no official start to the camino. And Pamplona is easy to get to. Flew in one time and walked from airport to Cizur Menor.
  18. alhartman

    Samos option?

    IMO, Samos is a place of camino magic. The route from Tricastella is like a Hobbit set with all the slate roofs and big old hollowed out trees. And at the end of the walk, San Xulian seems to rise out of the valley. I know we are now in a ‘"design your own camino with nice alberges and kind...
  19. alhartman

    Monasteries, Convents and Chapter Houses

    May 2007 San Juan d'Ortega watched as bedbugs dive bombed my hiking companion during afternoon rest. The garlic soup was great though. And it was a pretty well worn, dark refuge. I think we ran out of hot water in the showers as well. But in those days (my second camino) my expectations were...
  20. alhartman

    Leaving dog home question

    Around my Toulouse to Santiago 2008 Camino, I had a house sitter/housemate picked from Craigslist. Mixed results as had to take his dogs as well, and they trashed much of the property. Fortunately, with a fenced yard most everything recovered. But the dog was regularly fed, watered and had...

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