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  1. gml

    Is the Albergue in Roncesvalles a “must”?

    The word "must" is very subjective. To me, the Roncesvalles albergue was like an impersonal warehouse, and the check-in a regimented assembly line. (Me: "Might it possible to have a lower bunk?" Curt response: "If you don't like the bed, you should leave.") It was difficult to sleep because it...
  2. gml

    Things I fear

    My guess is that some of the things that you fear will in fact happen, at which point they won't be fears any longer but real challenges that you must -- and will -- figure out how to deal with. None of those challenges will kill you, and many of them will leave you wiser, stronger and better...
  3. gml

    Flora and Fauna along the Camino Frances

    Praying mantis, I believe.
  4. gml

    Bizarre discovery about the two route options between Saint-Jean and Roncesvalles

    For me, each route had an end-of-day challenge, on Valcarlos the killer climb in the second half, and on Napoleon the steep, toe-crunching descent at the end. My fondest memory was arriving via Valcarlos during a weather warning, in a cold, howling wind so strong that I was nearly blown off my...
  5. gml

    Why stay in traditional albergues when you could sleep better elsewhere?

    I set out staying only in albergues and wanted to continue to do that. I like simple, basic living and, as a solo walker, I appreciated the camaraderie in the evening. However, I had to switch to hostals and pensions because, despite my industrial ear plugs, the loud snoring in the albergues...
  6. gml

    Stage 1, Napoleon or via Valcarlos?

    Having walked both, I agree with Mark Lee (above) that they are both beautiful. But if the weather is clear and you don't mind having fellow wayfarers on the road, I would choose Napoleon, especially as a first-time route. The Valcarlos route is a little shorter, more forested and sheltered...
  7. gml

    How Many People Walked The Camino Without Any Training ?

    The body will rest and the muscles mend themselves. Torturous shoes and ill-fitting backpacks, however, are never going to feel any better, so I would focus on feet and the fit of the pack. I did no training, but I had: 1) brand new un-broken-in shoes that fit well; 2) a backpack chosen after...
  8. gml

    Samos and onto ????

    I stayed at the Victoria in October 2012 in a bright clean room overlooking the river. It happened to be my birthday, and a staff member noticed the date on my passport when I checked in. That evening, the caldo gallego (soup) was delicious, and to my surprise the barman, the waitress, and the...
  9. gml

    what is the right hiking shoe size......

    Blisters are caused by friction, and the best advice I got about foot care (and it was from people on this forum) is to apply a thin coating of Vaseline every morning to the blister-prone areas to prevent friction: on the heels, between the toes, and so on. I followed this routine faithfully...
  10. gml

    Where did you have a good Menu del Dia on the Camino Frances

    Thank you for giving the name of this establishment, which I failed to write down when I was there. This place served my most memorable (in a good way) dinner on the C Frances, and the dining area had a warm and friendly ambiance. I had the stuffed squid, too, and dessert was wine-infused pears...
  11. gml

    Hiking shoes

    I walked the C. Frances in 2012 at the same time of year that you are going -- September 22 into October -- in Salomon Women's X Ultra GTX shoes, which are trail runners / light hikers. They were very lightweight, cushy, snug but roomy, and perfect for every condition one encounters -- uphill...
  12. gml

    How to take care of your feet !!!

    I wore brand-new never-worn hiking shoes, had done no training (but I do run), and, miraculously, went 800 km without any foot problems. I attribute this mainly to having followed forum advice to smear a very thin coat of Vaseline on my feet and between toes every morning to prevent friction. I...
  13. gml

    Sleeping bag or Liner in September/October

    I agree with everyone who votes for a silk liner only. I walked through October last year and had a very light sleeping bag (10C/50F) in which I roasted every night. I would never again take a sleeping bag, only a liner. The rooms are very warm because they are full of humans, and most albergues...
  14. gml

    sleeping Bag or Sleeping Sack in Sep /Oct ?

    I have just returned from a Sept/Oct camino walk. I took a synthetic-fill sleeping bag rated to 10C, and it was the only item of equipment that I felt was a big mistake. It was seasonably chilly outside, especially in the mountain areas toward the end of October, but I absolutely sweltered in...

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