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Walked it in June, after starting from Somport and taking the Invierno after Ponferrada. I thought the Gronze stages were too long, so I broke it up a lot. Do stay at the albergue in Villavieja (you need to contact them ahead of time to get the door code -- it's not staffed), even though that's...
Yeah, Las Medulas is its own climb. No way I would have been up for getting all the way there from Ponferrada in 1 day! There were several points on that route that it just seemed better to break things up more than the standard guides suggested.
Yeah, that started out as a really pleasant, easy walk out of Ponferrada, but by the time I got to Villavieja, I was wiped out! There were people who went on quite a bit after that place to the next place (maybe Las Medulas? I forget), and I couldn't believe it. That was tough enough for me! But...
If you start there after taking the train, you get there so early in the morning that absolutely no one is up and about! So if you want to meet Casimiro (or a woman who I understand hangs out around the area of the church and wants to make sure it's fully explained to every pilgrim walking...
I walked through there in June, and it seems to me there was very little there that wasn't in ruins. I ended up doing some weird thing around there that had me walking to somewhere just short of Montefurado, taxiing back to the place I was staying, and then taking a crazy early train in the...
I used Manuel, too. I didn't use any kind of luggage transport service all the way from Somport to Ponferrada, but I opted to do it starting then because of the so-frequent need on the Invierno to carry water and food with you. Just make sure your daypack and general pack plans include a way to...
Almost all the churches are closed. In the larger towns, like Lalin and Chantada, they have operational churches, but no specific Masses for pilgrims or anything. And Masses might only be on Sundays, but you can check.
I loved Torre Vilariño! If you can, get yourself to that ecomuseum that’s right near there. Really worthwhile. All about the history and culture of the region, and there’s a castro site on the grounds and a beautiful view, too.
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I finished a few days ago and made that same decision. Was just feeling beat from all those other big hills, and plus it was uncomfortably hot the day I walked through there.
I finished that route (after starting on the Aragonese) a few days ago. I’m going to write something here about it once I’m reunited with my laptop. Buen Camino. That route is tough! I also used Manuel’s pack transport service (after not using any like that from Somport to Ponferrada!) because...
I’m in Silledo now, looking at arriving in Santiago on the 24th. Started in Somport. Yes, the Invierno has been tough!
😁 I’m reading this a couple days after having problems at the same place, taking the variant route around that mountain. (So it’s not just me! 🎉) Lots of arrows in a row when...
I arrived and found one other pilgrim there, a woman from the Netherlands who hadn’t called ahead and didn’t know to bring food. She’d solicited help from the attendant at the castle to get in. Boy, was she glad to see me arrive with pasta and sauce and oatmeal for breakfast! We’ve dovetailed...
Just a caveat that the albergue in Villavieja (about halfway between Ponferrada and Las Médulas) is NOT staffed. You are supposed to call ahead to the ayuntamiento (number in Gronze), and they give you the door code. There’s no one there, AND there’s no food for miles around, so they advise...
Buen camino! I think 20k is a good pace, not too exhausting and yet you make progress. Are you able to book a day or two ahead, or do you need to book further ahead?
I'm planning on doing this route, probably arriving in that area in late May sometime (depends on how it goes starting at Somport and joining the rat race on the main road -- I might give up and head up to Oviedo to start the Primitivo if things are too crazy for my tastes on the main drag or...
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