2024 El Norte to Ribadesella, possible stages.

[laineylainey]

So I walked the magificent (IMO) Olvidado last September,then met up with hubby in our Campervan and we toured part of Portugal and then returned up and travelled back into France along the North coast of Spain. I was aware of the road signs for El Norte and saw quite a few peregrinos. I began to wonder if this was a route I should have walked many years ago when a bit younger, but then the Olvidado wasn't an easy walk albeit not with as many ascents and descents in one day as I think is the case in the first half of El Norte? Then I saw a post from @peregrina2000 from 2017?, giving suggestions for diversions on parts of El Norte to reduce the amount of asphalt and experience some walking along the coastline. I then became really interested to find out more about this route as although I love routes that go through mountains in Spain, I also love coastal walking. So I have bought the 2023 Norte guide which appears excellent and I have started planning my stages for a September 3 week walk.
I have only got to about Bilbao in my initial plan!
San Sebastion - Askizu- Ibiri - Zenarruza (though not so sure?) - Ponzueta - Bilbao? (not sure, I am not keen on big cities and the long walk in and out).
I would be really grateful to anyone who has walked El Norte, especially with the off -asphalt diversions, to share their stages. I am still reasonably fit and now after a couple of years on quieter Caminos I do like the comforts offered by the smaller towns and those "not to be missed" accommodation choices.
Would you share your El Norte journey, in the shape of stages and recommended accommodation ( only up to Ribadesella)? As usual most of my planning choices comes from the people on this forum!
Thank you and Happy New Year Camino planning!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, @laineylainey. This thread shows my stages from 2017. That was the year I walked the coastal alternatives so it includes those "detours."

Getaria is one of those cutesy little tourist towns with very nice places to eat and stay. I see you are going a few kms beyond, but you might really like it.

Highly recommend the albergue in Izarbide, more for its setting than anything else.

One little recommendation about Ribadesella. I have been through there several times now and never made my way to the Cuevas de Tito Bustillo. If I ever get back, it will be high on my list.

TITO BUSTILLO CAVE - UNESCO SITE

Tito Bustillo Cave is a part of the Ardines massif: a calcareous stone formation placed by the estuary of the Sella River. Pozu’l Ramu is the name of the crack on the top of the massif that was used in 1968 by Tito Bustillo’s expedition to discover this cave.With Lascaux and Altamira caves, this...

www.ribadesella.es

30,000 years old? Blows the mind. And unlike the caves at Santillana, visitors are still allowed into the actual site.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[laineylainey]

Hi, @laineylainey. This thread shows my stages from 2017. That was the year I walked the coastal alternatives so it includes those "detours."

Getaria is one of those cutesy little tourist towns with very nice places to eat and stay. I see you are going a few kms beyond, but you might really like it.

Highly recommend the albergue in Izarbide, more for its setting than anything else.

One little recommendation about Ribadesella. I have been through there several times now and never made my way to the Cuevas de Tito Bustillo. If I ever get back, it will be high on my list.

TITO BUSTILLO CAVE - UNESCO SITE

Tito Bustillo Cave is a part of the Ardines massif: a calcareous stone formation placed by the estuary of the Sella River. Pozu’l Ramu is the name of the crack on the top of the massif that was used in 1968 by Tito Bustillo’s expedition to discover this cave.With Lascaux and Altamira caves, this...

www.ribadesella.es

30,000 years old? Blows the mind. And unlike the caves at Santillana, visitors are still allowed into the actual site.

Buen camino, Laurie

As usual Laurie, many thanks.

 

[Luka]

One little recommendation about Ribadesella. I have been through there several times now and never made my way to the Cuevas de Tito Bustillo. If I ever get back, it will be high on my list.

TITO BUSTILLO CAVE - UNESCO SITE

Tito Bustillo Cave is a part of the Ardines massif: a calcareous stone formation placed by the estuary of the Sella River. Pozu’l Ramu is the name of the crack on the top of the massif that was used in 1968 by Tito Bustillo’s expedition to discover this cave.With Lascaux and Altamira caves, this...

www.ribadesella.es

30,000 years old? Blows the mind. And unlike the caves at Santillana, visitors are still allowed into the actual site.

Buen camino, Laurie

I have visited that cave.
You can only do a guided tour (in Spanish) which should be booked well in advance.

 

[laineylainey]

The idea about going on from Getaria, is someone in one of the past posts was talking about Albergues on the Norte that were highly recommended and they mentioned Agote Aundi at Askizu. Can't remember who it was?

 

[Luka]

The idea about going on from Getaria, is someone in one of the past posts was talking about Albergues on the Norte that were highly recommended and they mentioned Agote Aundi at Askizu. Can't remember who it was?

I can definitely recommend Aves del Paso in Pendueles (reservation necessary as it is always full).

 

[laineylainey]

I can definitely recommend Aves del Paso in Pendueles (reservation necessary as it is always full).

Good to know, thanks

 

[laineylainey]

@peregrina2000 . I notice day 6 ( Larrebetzu to Poretugalete through Bilbao and on the right side of the Ría -- 27) you follow the route by the river. Was that the bike path on the North side of the river over the Bizkaia bridge? In the new guide it mentions there are 3 routes out of Bilbao, one which initially climbs to the Municipal Albergue, 4.4k outside Bilbao. The second which looks like urban road walking and the third one which I think you did? Just wondering whether to consider the route up which then comes down through Barakaldo? Or is the flatter route to Portugalete better?

 

[Damien Reynolds]

@peregrina2000 . I notice day 6 ( Larrebetzu to Poretugalete through Bilbao and on the right side of the Ría -- 27) you follow the route by the river. Was that the bike path on the North side of the river over the Bizkaia bridge? In the new guide it mentions there are 3 routes out of Bilbao, one which initially climbs to the Municipal Albergue, 4.4k outside Bilbao. The second which looks like urban road walking and the third one which I think you did? Just wondering whether to consider the route up which then comes down through Barakaldo? Or is the flatter route to Portugalete better?

I know the question was not meant for me but I like the "river route" out of Bilbao. Over the last few years the bike path has been improved. It's fine. There is some sidewalk walking next to motorcycle repair shops and car dealerships when the bike path goes away. But then you get to take The Vizcaya Bridge which is a treat for me!

BTW: in the past I've walked straight through Bilbao to Portugalete along this route, bypassing the city altogether. Bilbao has good museums tho.

 

[laineylainey]

I know the question was not meant for me but I like the "river route" out of Bilbao. Over the last few years the bike path has been improved. It's fine. There is some sidewalk walking next to motorcycle repair shops and car dealerships when the bike path goes away. But then you get to take The Vizcaya Bridge which is a treat for me!

BTW: in the past I've walked straight through Bilbao to Portugalete along this route, bypassing the city altogether. Bilbao has good museums tho.

Thanks, that's really helpful.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Thanks, that's really helpful.

Ok, one more thing. You can bypass the "inner city" walking in Bilbao by just following the river after you cross it. Then you cross it again to the other side on the "curvy" bridge. I think its the

Euskalduna Bridge... and I'm sorry for the bold font but I can't seem to change it. ​

 

[peregrina2000]

Damien said it all but I’ll just add that I walked on a Sunday so there was very little traffic I think it would be a very urban experience walking there during the week. Nothing dangerous at all, but certainly not bucolic.

Another reason not to bypass Bilbao is that the bars in the old part of town have some of the most amazing pintxos displays I have ever seen in my life. And all delicious.

 

[tjz]

In 2022, we started in Zamudio and walked through Bilbao on the "right side of the river" route and stayed in Portugalete. We had a very memorable (fantastic!) lunch in Bilbao on the way. It's all pavement, but we really enjoyed this walk and taking the transporter across the Vizcaya bridge was unique and fun. We did take a proper day in Bilbao on our way home and took in the museum and waterfront area. Much to recommend in Bilbao!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

I think it would be a very urban experience walking there during the week.

Nah, not so bad. It is kinda nice I think whenever I've been there. But, ANYTIME anyone is walking out of or into a big city it is not ideal. Well, Logrono is pretty nice. (but that's an entirely different camino altogether).

 

[laineylainey]

Great stuff, thanks all.

 

[laineylainey]

Out of interest has anyone walked route 1 out of Bilbao, up to the Municipal Albergue then down through Barakaldo?

 

[peregrina2000]

Out of interest has anyone walked route 1 out of Bilbao, up to the Municipal Albergue then down through Barakaldo?

Yes, I did that once. If it hasn’t changed since 2006, it was not a great route. Nice lunch spot on a bench on the river in Barakaldo, but the before and after had some not so nice spots. Leaving Bilbao it took us on some path (not the road) past some abandoned or badly maintained industrial sites, and then past some shanty type housing on the side of a hill down to Barakaldo. Nothing scary, just not pleasant.

The route from Barakaldo to Sestao took us to an abandoned apartment building (broken windows and all that) that had been “occupied.” In the time it took us to walk past the building and up onto a regular road, I remember that at least two or three fancy cars came down, rolled down their window, something was exchanged, and off they went.

I would love to hear from someone who has walked this way recently, because I would be surprised if it is still the same route.

 

[laineylainey]

Yes, I did that once. If it hasn’t changed since 2006, it was not a great route. Nice lunch spot on a bench on the river in Barakaldo, but the before and after had some not so nice spots. Leaving Bilbao it took us on some path (not the road) past some abandoned or badly maintained industrial sites, and then past some shanty type housing on the side of a hill down to Barakaldo. Nothing scary, just not pleasant.

The route from Barakaldo to Sestao took us to an abandoned apartment building (broken windows and all that) that had been “occupied.” In the time it took us to walk past the building and up onto a regular road, I remember that at least two or three fancy cars came down, rolled down their window, something was exchanged, and off they went.

I would love to hear from someone who has walked this way recently, because I would be surprised if it is still the same route.

Again, great to know. The new guide just mentions that 2 marked routes out of Bilbao split before the Hospital. Then there is the option of the climb to the Albergue then a descent to Castrejana. It mentions spectacular views and walking "past working class neighbourhoods of Bilbao" en route to Barakaldo and Sestao. Interestingly the 2nd option, the authors don't recommend, where it follows the river and initially the N634 and then smaller roads and pedestrian paths. They call it " mostly unpleasant urban walking" and recommend the first option!
The 3rd option the authors mention is the bike path by the river to Portugalete

 

[peregrina2000]

Again, great to know. The new guide just mentions that 2 marked routes out of Bilbao split before the Hospital. Then there is the option of the climb to the Albergue then a descent to Castrejana. It mentions spectacular views and walking "past working class neighbourhoods of Bilbao" en route to Barakaldo and Sestao. Interestingly the 2nd option, the authors don't recommend, where it follows the river and initially the N634 and then smaller roads and pedestrian paths. They call it " mostly unpleasant urban walking" and recommend the first option!
The 3rd option the authors mention is the bike path by the river to Portugalete

I really can’t tell from the description which of those first two we took. Looking at the three routes Gronze shows, it must have been the one in the middle because I definitely remember eating lunch on a bench on the river in Barakaldo. But I would also not be surprised if there have been changes. So I would go with their recommendation and hope you don’t see too many drug deals.

Like Damien, I thought it was very cool to take that transporter bridge. I was told it is a Unesco World Heritage site!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

OK. one more thing. There is a good pizza place in Ribadesella.

Pizzería Bocca Café​

 

[laineylainey]

I really can’t tell from the description which of those first two we took. Looking at the three routes Gronze shows, it must have been the one in the middle because I definitely remember eating lunch on a bench on the river in Barakaldo. But I would also not be surprised if there have been changes. So I would go with their recommendation and hope you don’t see too many drug deals.

Like Damien, I thought it was very cool to take that transporter bridge. I was told it is a Unesco World Heritage site!

Thanks again Laurie. No I shall be taking the route on the right side of the river out of the city. I look forward to the experience of the transporter bridge.

 

[laineylainey]

OK. one more thing. There is a good pizza place in Ribadesella.

Pizzería Bocca Café​

Thanks Damien. Great to look forward to for my last day's meal!

 

[laineylainey]

think a stop off in Bilbao might be an option. It's been a long time since I stayed there. What do people recommend as accommodation?

 

[peregrina2000]

think a stop off in Bilbao might be an option. It's been a long time since I stayed there. What do people recommend as accommodation?

I am pretty sure the place I stayed when I walked the Olvidado with Susanna was the Pensión La Fuente. It’s very close to the cathedral and all the great tapas places. It’s a family run place - looks like a home turned into a pensión. I remember the doorknob came off in my hand when I went into my room, and the owner was so embarrassed.

I try to avoid hostels (as opposted to hostales) in big cities, but there are quite a few on Gronze.

 

[davejsy]

think a stop off in Bilbao might be an option. It's been a long time since I stayed there. What do people recommend as accommodation?

Bilbao is a beautiful reborn city, in fact one the only cities I regularly return to in NW Spain (I'm not a city person), although I've not stayed there as normally train in on the Euskotren from Mundaka during our roadtrips. I haven't walked the Norte, but have spent the last 10+ years exploring all along the beautiful NW coast and would love to walk it one day.

 

[laineylainey]

So back to my planning. Walking from Bilbao to Portugalete by the river gives me an easy-ish day to enjoy, I think, plus the experience of that Bridge. Then I think it is on to Castro Urdiales the next day, going by the more inland route after Ontón through Santullán. There seems to be an array of accommodation choices in Castro Urdiales, is anywhere recommended?

 

[peregrina2000]

There seems to be an array of accommodation choices in Castro Urdiales, is anywhere recommended?

I haven’t stayed in the albergue - it is a fair distance (about 1 km, I think) from the town, which has a lot to see, so I wouldn’t go there for that reason alone. Not to mention the very bad gronze reviews.

I’ve stayed both in a more upscale place and a modest pensión, so you really have the full range. I had written in an earlier post that I stayed in Pensión La Mar and had a good meal next door at the Bajamar. Seems that the La Mar is still in business. It’s got a great location for seeing the sights in the afternoon.

If you want something more on the splurge side, I can hunt to find where I was, but it was more than ten years ago, so might be out of date.

 

[laineylainey]

I am looking at the coastal alternatives and how to avoid the highway between Castro Urdiales and Liendo and then possibly onto Laredo. Laurie in your notes you have 2 alternatives to this stretch to avoid the highway. I am think you walked 4a down into La Magdalena? Looking at the new Guide it too mentions alternative routes but seems to suggest that it is 24.4k from Castro to Liendo and then a further 7.2 to Laredo. Your stages note from 2017 says 27k from Castro to Laredo.

 

[peregrina2000]

I am looking at the coastal alternatives and how to avoid the highway between Castro Urdiales and Liendo and then possibly onto Laredo. Laurie in your notes you have 2 alternatives to this stretch to avoid the highway. I am think you walked 4a down into La Magdalena? Looking at the new Guide it too mentions alternative routes but seems to suggest that it is 24.4k from Castro to Liendo and then a further 7.2 to Laredo. Your stages note from 2017 says 27k from Castro to Laredo.

Yes, I did 4A. There is a dicey spot on the ”pure” coastal route, discussed in this thread, which I would not try but others have. My live post said my GPS recorded 33.5 to center of Laredo. So wherever I wrote 27 was wrong. Maybe it was assuming taking the “shortcut” alongside the national highway, which many/most people do. The gronze map is a bit complicated, but I think in combination with others’ notes, you can find the route you want to walk.

I. do remember arriving in Laredo and talking with people who had wanted to go past the ermita on the coastal route but missed the turnoff, and I think. but am not sure that it was because they took the highway shortcut, which then deposits you back on the amino after the turnoff for the ermita. But memory is fuzzy, this was 7 years ago. Does this help, @laineylainey?

 

[laineylainey]

Thank you again Laurie, that makes more sense now. Yes, Gronze's suggested route looks a bit complicated, I think. However your notes link in well with the new Guide where the map of this stage shows well the alternative down through La Magdalena and then once in Liendo, turning right to get up to the coastal path for Laredo, the official Camino route.
I am tempted to stay in Liendo as the reviews of the Albergue are so good, however Wise pilgrim suggests it is not currently open. Shall wait and see if others who walk the Norte in the coming months mention anything

 

[laineylainey]

Just another question at this point. I remember last year when walking the Olvidado I was grateful some days to have downloaded Ender's routes on Wikilocs. I am assuming this might not be the case with El Norte?