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Started the Arles Route "in bits" last year. I was advised to start from Montpellier. Advice I should have taken! Back in September, can't wait.
Last June from Toulouse I rarely saw another pilgrim. It is much less traveled than the Chemin du Puy. It is a solo walk until you get to Puente la Reina (if you continue on the Camino Aragones).a bit concerned about isolation
I am considering doing the Arles route in early May. Last year I commenced the Le Puy route but found it a bit tough ... the weather was awful, rain and sleet. I was hoping for something a bit easier this year. Has anybody done the Arles Route ... anybody done both Arles and the Le Puy Routes?
the walking between Arles and Montpellier is dull. Much road walking and dull countryside. I used the bus to skip half a day.
I did two sections of the Arles route in May and June last year, from Arles to near Castres and beyond Auch to Somport. I am surprised at how often I hear people recommending against the section from Arles to Montpellier. I thought the first days walk to St Gilles was particularly beautiful and peaceful, taking the route along the Petit Rhone (I think there is an alternative to this which may not be as good), and the second day also went through some lovely countryside. People I was walking with were also puzzled by the bad reputation of this stretch. The walk through Haut Languedoc was spectacular, but pretty strenuous. There were quite a few pilgrims on the first part of the Arles route, but approaching the Pyrenees they dwindled to a very few, and I was often the only person in pilgrim accommodation, which got a bit lonely. This may have been because it was an unusually wet year, with many days of rain. I'm told its not normally like that.I am considering doing the Arles route in early May. Last year I commenced the Le Puy route but found it a bit tough ... the weather was awful, rain and sleet. I was hoping for something a bit easier this year. Has anybody done the Arles Route ... anybody done both Arles and the Le Puy Routes?
All routes have their difficulties, and perhaps the Le Puy seems tougher because it has quite a lot of climbing on the first few days (but worth every knee creak, in my opinion). I was worried before setting out from Arles because I'd read the mountains before Castres were very challenging, but in fact there was nothing to worry about. The way was quiet but there was always at least one other pilgrim (I walked in April from Arles, then returned to start again from Toulouse in October). The biggest problem I encountered was dehydration (horrible!), but that was my fault for not bringing enough water or wearing a hat on the long, flat, shadeless sections at the start near Arles. I suppose the conclusion I came to was that nothing is too challenging as long as one takes the appropriate steps to meet those challenges!
How was the wal;k from Toulouse to Orolon?
I will then head to StJ and on to Muxia.
Not sure id knees can get Samport
Any advice appreciated Metro,
Thanks David
The walk after Toulouse is one of the loveliest - brilliant accommodation, lovely people, gorgeous places. The Pyrenees looming ever closer, the fields getting greener and fresher the closer you get to the mountains. The actual exit from Toulouse is the one time I've ever skipped the walk and taken the bus - simply because I just kept getting lost. I still don't regret it, if only because of the sweet contrast between the hot, unforgiving city and the cool early evening arrival at the small town (sorry, can't remember the name) and its lovely old gite, run by devoted local volunteers.How was the wal;k from Toulouse to Orolon?
I will then head to StJ and on to Muxia.
Not sure id knees can get Samport
Any advice appreciated Metro,
Thanks David
It's an easy walk. Seems a pity to stop at Oloron. The walk up the valley of the Aspe is something special.
How I envy you! I must admit it's been years since I walked from Toulouse, and since I don't blog (and my scrawled notebooks tend to be filled with rhapsodies on dinner rather than any useful route information) I can't remember many specifics on downhill sections. What I do remember regarding the difficulty of the Somport crossing were: 1. As the road ascends, the path avoided it by climbing up into the forest where it narrowed dramatically at some steep sections, to the point where the only way to continue was to cling to the roots of nearby shrubs and pray they would hold my weight (the path may have changed now, given the heavy rains of the last few years, so others may be able to update you on that); 2. There are some very windy sections where all the air in Spain seems to be trying to force you back into France, and quite possibly beyond; 3. I do seem to remember a steepish descent into Jaca; 4. Despite eating duck confit every evening without fail in the French section, and extravagent menus del dia in Spain, in two weeks from Toulouse to Logrono I lost more weight per day than on any other camino I've done.Only a few weeks ago Kanga it nearly killed me walking into Cahors on the road section.
We did however make it a 30km day from Bach
Thank God for those two great guys [ brothers] with the drinks in La Quintarde.
Its the down hill that hurt these old knees.
Thanks Metropolly for the help.
I think the communal gite is in Leguevin which is highly recommended by many.
You have my thanks for making life hard with the coming decisions.................i will discuss all with Her Majesty and yes Aragones is a big possibility.
Only a few weeks ago Kanga it nearly killed me walking into Cahors on the road section.
We did however make it a 30km day from Bach
Thank God for those two great guys [ brothers] with the drinks in La Quintarde.
Its the down hill that hurt these old knees.
Thanks Metropolly for the help.
I think the communal gite is in Leguevin which is highly recommended by many.
You have my thanks for making life hard with the coming decisions.................i will discuss all with Her Majesty and yes Aragones is a big possibility.
Hi I walked from the outskirts of Montpellier to the turn off for Lourdes, I did miss out a section from Castres to Toulouse which took out about 100 - 120 km and that included the Canal du Midi,one of my guidebooks was giving a shortcut which connected more directly to the canal after Revel and missed out 30 km.
The Section from the outskirts of Montpellier to Castres is almost free of busy road walking, some Asphalt around 30-40% and those sections are on quiet country roads.
I restarted from St Sernin cathedral in the centre of Toulouse, my hotel was about 30 metres away, and walked to the 1st listed Gite at about 20-25 km. The walk out of the city requires a bit of patience, a good map and an understanding of basic French, I had the former but not the latter two and got misdirected on two occassions, once for a couple of hours going back and forth trying to understand if I was on the right route or not ( not), there is a few interesting parts where you are walking on the edges of roads with cars speeding past, my advice jump it, like it is advised on here. The sections after Toulouse are mixture of natural trail, roads and some busy road sections, asphalt now going up to around 50-60% mostly quiet roads. Apart from Toulouse section there is not anything I would say miss.
The gites are varied and you will come across some exceptional ones.
My sections were a real mix, I cut some in half or a third, that was too see where my knee was at and try to ease my way into the 65 days.
The one little detour I missed was the chapelle St Eutrope a few km after St Gervais sur Mare. If you feel you can make the climb up to it, I have been told it is worth it.
Good Luck
Mike.
The other detour I did was going to Lourdes, you rejoin the Arles route at Oleron St Marie, is about 20-30km longer than if you stayed with the Arles route and takes 5- 6 days. You need the French Randonee book for Toulouse to Jacca which has maps and covers this detour, I used the tourist office map for the GR101, you might as well get a A-4 of paper and draw your own squiggly line across it, write Lahitte- Toupiere at the top( this is where you turn off the Arles and Lourdes at the bottom.
View attachment 18126
The Gr101 is about 60-65 km long, I was going to do it in 2 days but ended up staying in Ibos.
First night I stayed in the Abbaye Notre Dame de l' Esperance very near Tarasteix ( tel 05. 62 31 11 93), demi pension €25, book it,the route is devoid of shops, cafes, there was just one water tap in a cemetery on the 1st day. About 25-27km, very beautiful forest/woods trail walking, very solitary
View attachment 18127
2nd day I was going to kick it and get to Lourdes, but stopped at a cafe bar in Ibos had a 1/4 carafe of rose with my meal and that was it. Asked about hotels in the cafe and they said go to the Marie they have somewhere for pilgrims, they do. It is a local reception house they have, kitchen, toilets and sinks, gardens and bed but no shower or bath, donativo. This would be hard to book at the weekend if the Marie was shut. A traditional Sardinian voice group sang at the church that night next to the reception, it was a beautiful night, the locals were walking the streets singing in a Occitane Pyrennees tradition and the group were incredible.
View attachment 18128
The next day was the walk to Lourdes less natural walking and more Asphalt, still very beautiful.
From Lourdes you follow the Piedmont route, there is a section on this Forum on that route with good info.View attachment 18129
The book published by FFRP, Toulouse to Jacca will more or less keep you on the right path, I tried to buy it Toulouse but it was sold out, I did see it at the St Jacques Association office in the St Sernin church but thought I would pick it up in the bookshop in the evening - a mistake. I basically ended up seeing the markings for another GR and ended up on the east side of the airport, which I knew was wrong at the time but without a map couldn't see where or how to get out of it, after two hours decided to retrace my steps and walked back about 3-4 km. The French generally know English better than people give them credit for, just not on that day.
Thank you Mike I am noting all the information you are sharing with me while I wait patiently for my Sentier Guide books to arrive (its been 2 months in the coming!!) and the postal system is more on strike than working...The jump is either catch a train or tram to Pibrac( I think) which misses out about 10 or 11 km and then stay at the friendly local association run Gite in Leguevin.
Had a nieces wedding I had to be at on the 1st of August so that was how I set my target of 65 days, I didn't have a plan to walk all the way or if I did I was flexible about it.
The suggested stages in the Haute Languedoc by various guides are quite heavy going, why risk injury, cut them, use the Miam Miam Guide to look at accommodation options in between suggested stages. You can walk further, longer after Castres(I think).
I had the above book and the French Randonee ( FFRP) books, a lot of pilgrims were using the Rando books- they seemed quite useful.
The turn off for Lourdes is about 5km after Mauborguet, I went 2km on and stayed at a British run Gite, then cut back the next day. This turn off is about 6-7 etapas after Toulouse.
Not sure about distances on the GR101, I am guessing 25-27 to the Abbaye from the Gite I was in, 14 km to Ibos next day, and then around 21-23 to Lourdes next day. It is possible to walk in two, I suggest stay at the Abbaye for the 1st night, then go for it on the 2nd, There is the option of stopping about 6-7km before Lourdes in Bartres, this would give you a long day to look around.
Good luck.
I wait patiently for my Sentier Guide books to arrive (its been 2 months in the coming!!) and the postal system is more on strike than working...
I hope we both get lucky....
I see you also walked Chemin du Puy in which month? I started end of August and finished 3rd October in Roncevalles via the Clee valley. I am expecting the Chemin de Arles to be more difficult...I hope we both get lucky....
Hi was wondering how your camino is going so far would really love to have your feed back after your trip on the stages you did and your experiences good and bad regarding the gites , places to eat and places not to miss....Yep! I'm off on 18th. Anyone else heading out 18th from Arles?
18th June hasn't arrived yet.Hi was wondering how your camino is going so far would really love to have your feed back after your trip on the stages you did and your experiences good and bad regarding the gites , places to eat and places not to miss....
Cheers
Susie
Hi was wondering how your camino is going so far would really love to have your feed back after your trip on the stages you did and your experiences good and bad regarding the gites , places to eat and places not to miss....
Cheers
Susie
Parc Expo to Montpellier by tram,how to get to Arles from Montpellier Airport
Really I need to hitchhike. Recommendations for hitchhiking from Months Airport to Arles?Parc Expo to Montpellier by tram,
Montpellier Roche to Arles by train.
No problem .... I wish a wonderful camino....and would love to hear all your recommendations gites and stages ect.Sorry I didn't say which month!
It is heresy, I know, but start the day with a 5-10km taxi ride! The stages do not yield much, and the accommodations in many places are limited to one.some advice on breaking down the stages
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