Arles Vs Geneva Route+Stevenson

[Sanman]

Hi Everyone...I'm trying to decide between two walks, the Arles or the Geneva and once in Le Puy then walking the Stevenson Route.

Some background...my wife And I are seniors but fit and experienced walkers. Last year we did Le Puy, this year we did the Norte to Muxia. Both walks were quite manageable but had their moments - long days (30km+), heat, elevation etc. We want a good walk but I don't want to be staggering into town, I know I'm not 25 anymore...I also don't want to tempt fate on an injury on a lonely route - but I'm up for a reasonable challenge.

I understand while both walks are a road less travelled (great) I have read both are quite tough...how tough?

I know that is a relative question (hence our background), we plan to start mid April. I hear for the Arles Way past Montpellier is rough and pass through the Pyrenees is steep and rough and many take the bus (and the trail at this point s not well marked...or you can take the road?) I have ordered the Miam MIam Dodo to read more but would love a first hand account (from someone 50+!)

I have read the Via Gebennensis starts moidestly and then does many 1,000m daily climbs. We did this on the Norte, no problem but the downhills on the wet muddy days was really rough. Any thoughts on how it (or Arles compare to Norte - Le Puy?)

And lastly, The Stevenson looks cool, historic but I haven't read much yet (book on order)...and insights on difficulty?

Thank you all! for any insights.

 

[Former member 104756]

Bonjour @Sanman

Wonderful paths you're considering. I haven't walked from Geneva to Le Puy, but have walked the Le Puy Way, the Arles / Aragones and the Stevenson Way - so I can kick off ...

First, Geneva to Le Puy - I haven't walked it but those I know who have say it is a wonderful, spectacular and challenging walk. One couple we know well did this walk in their late 60s. They are experienced walkers,, have walked camino paths in France, Spain and Italy- and I know this walk is one of their favourites. I know they map out their stages so they don't usually walk more than 25 kms per day.

Arles / Aragones - We walked this path in 2016 starting from Arles on 1 April. We very much enjoyed it. I loved Arles and enjoyed spending a little time there before we began. You will read that the 'stages' between Arles and Montpelier are nothing special in terms of landscape and I'd agree with that. After Montpelier I don't recall that it was particularly difficult but there were a few tough ups and downs. If you continue on to Spain over the Pyrenees at Col du Somport, yes that's a tough day but there is a bus from Bedous or Urdos (if memory serves me) if weather is unkind or you just don't want to do it. Either way, the reward is the Aragones. A wonderful path - I've walked it twice and was back in the area a few weeks ago and walked from Jaca back to Oloron St Marie in France.

Stevenson Way - loved this walk. We did this in May 2017. We started on 21 May and I recall it was quite hot some days. The scenery was wonderful and we stayed in some charming and quirky gites. I loved the history of the walk. It has its own delightful credenciale and the waymarking has a drawing of RL Stevenson with his donkey Modestine. And vignettes along the way. We walked in May so there were quite a few walkers taking advantage of the long weekends. April would be less busy.

Comparisons with Le Puy and Norte - far fewer people as you'd be aware. Difficulty - you know that the first week or so of both the Le Puy and Norte are pretty challenging for most people. They were for me. I'd say the Stevenson is right up there with the first week or so of the Le Puy - probably not surprising as it shares a starting point.

The Gevena / Stevenson combination sounds wonderful to me. But then I'd never try to dissuade anyone against the Arles / Aragones.

If you're interested, I can send you privately a link to my blog from both the Stevenson and the Arles / Aragones - to give a taste of scenery.

Happy planning ....

PS to add - trying to give some context for 'how tough'. We were 59 and 61 when we walked the Arles / Aragones and a year older when we walked the Stevenson Way. We are reasonably fit and healthy, but we are no great athletes. We are happy to do a solid day's walk but not arrive exhausted. We can comfortably walk 25 kms, happy when it's a little less - but can manage more when we have to.

 

[Sanman]

Pelerina - you are why I love this Forum.
Thank you for such a considered response, so appreciated.
I'm going to print it out and save it, refer to it.
And yes would love to read your blog - I'm at sandytherunner@gmail.com
Thx so so much!

 

[Former member 104756]

Thank you! Your headline captured my attention! Will send you the blog links via email.

 

[Former member 104756]

PS. @sandman I’ve sent you blog links and I took the opportunity to reread my blog from the Arles Way. I hadn’t read that for a very long time. Great memories. From what I wrote it seems it may have been a bit tougher than I recall … my rear view mirror has a rose coloured tint. I did a reality check with my husband and he confirmed that there were some tough climbs but no more difficult than the Le Puy or Norte

 

[gunwharfman]

Hi Everyone...I'm trying to decide between two walks, the Arles or the Geneva and once in Le Puy then walking the Stevenson Route.

Some background...my wife And I are seniors but fit and experienced walkers. Last year we did Le Puy, this year we did the Norte to Muxia. Both walks were quite manageable but had their moments - long days (30km+), heat, elevation etc. We want a good walk but I don't want to be staggering into town, I know I'm not 25 anymore...I also don't want to tempt fate on an injury on a lonely route - but I'm up for a reasonable challenge.

I understand while both walks are a road less travelled (great) I have read both are quite tough...how tough?

I know that is a relative question (hence our background), we plan to start mid April. I hear for the Arles Way past Montpellier is rough and pass through the Pyrenees is steep and rough and many take the bus (and the trail at this point s not well marked...or you can take the road?) I have ordered the Miam MIam Dodo to read more but would love a first hand account (from someone 50+!)

I have read the Via Gebennensis starts moidestly and then does many 1,000m daily climbs. We did this on the Norte, no problem but the downhills on the wet muddy days was really rough. Any thoughts on how it (or Arles compare to Norte - Le Puy?)

And lastly, The Stevenson looks cool, historic but I haven't read much yet (book on order)...and insights on difficulty?

Thank you all! for any insights.

I'm from the UK, am 78 and still hiking. I walked from Le Puy to Figeac a few years ago and enjoyed it. I have also walked The Stevenson Way, even better. My neighbours little girl knocked on my door and said "My Mum said you have to read this book." It was 'Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes' by Robert Louis Stevenson, I did, loved it, downloaded it onto my phone and then hiked and camped it three months later. It took me 12 days and the book made it special. It was not a hard walk, it was an easy trail to follow, ups and downs yes, but not massive ups and downs, and some wonderful little towns and villages to walk through as well. I really liked Florac. I've recently returned from hiking the GR107 route through the Pyrenees. I stopped at Letour de Carol, walked in and out of Llivia (Spain) which is completely surrounded by France. Then caught a bus to Villefranche de Confent (excellent, 1 Euro for me) camped there the night and caught the Little Yellow Train back to Letour the next day. 16 Euros and worth every cent, a wonderful journey through the mountains.

 

[Sanman]

PS. @sandman I’ve sent you blog links and I took the opportunity to reread my blog from the Arles Way. I hadn’t read that for a very long time. Great memories. From what I wrote it seems it may have been a bit tougher than I recall … my rear view mirror has a rose coloured tint. I did a reality check with my husband and he confirmed that there were some tough climbs but no more difficult than the Le Puy or Norte

Thx Pelerina! I look forward to reading them, really really appreciate you sharing!

 

[Sanman]

I'm from the UK, am 78 and still hiking. I walked from Le Puy to Figeac a few years ago and enjoyed it. I have also walked The Stevenson Way, even better. My neighbours little girl knocked on my door and said "My Mum said you have to read this book." It was 'Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes' by Robert Louis Stevenson, I did, loved it, downloaded it onto my phone and then hiked and camped it three months later. It took me 12 days and the book made it special. It was not a hard walk, it was an easy trail to follow, ups and downs yes, but not massive ups and downs, and some wonderful little towns and villages to walk through as well. I really liked Florac. I've recently returned from hiking the GR107 route through the Pyrenees. I stopped at Letour de Carol, walked in and out of Llivia (Spain) which is completely surrounded by France. Then caught a bus to Villefranche de Confent (excellent, 1 Euro for me) camped there the night and caught the Little Yellow Train back to Letour the next day. 16 Euros and worth every cent, a wonderful journey through the mountains.

Thx Gunwharfman really appreciate this perspective.
I have not bought the book, been up to my nose in the Miam Miam Dodo but I will! thx soo0 much for the route, I will re-trace your steps online so I can see what you did. Sounds wonderful!

 

[Former member 104756]

Thx Pelerina! I look forward to reading them, really really appreciate you sharing!

I also had another look at my Stevenson Way blog - mostly photos. What a fabulous path . Here are blurry photos of the Credenciale inc elevation maps. I love thé colour coding. The highlighted villages were our stops.

 

[gunwharfman]

I hiked the GR10 route in 2015, from the Atlantic to the Med in 51 days. I crossed the Camino route in St. Jean-Pied-du Port, hundreds took the Camino route, eight of us carried on along the GR10. That was the year I was 70 and diagnosed with Prostate Cancer, that was in April. I had it surgically removed (by the da Vinci robot) and then and on a whim, I walked the GR10 from July 17th of the same year. On day 17 I realised I had a hernia, and on day 22 I bought a truss and then finished my walk. A mad but enjoyable year and my hernia was repaired two weeks after my return to the UK. I've never had a problem since and have never been on any medication, all thanks to our NHS.

 

[filly]

Hello! Currently hiking the Ruta de la Lana with temperatures hitting 36 degrees regularly. Just completed 180 kms at an average speed of 5.2 kph and I’m 71! I thought this might be my last hike but Malaga to Baena and Barcelona/Montserrat to Puenta La Reina call for next year…

Anyway, ‘revenons à nos moutons’. I have done the Stevenson and the via Tolosona/voie d’Arles. I like a longer hike and a more ‘religious’ one, so have no doubt in recommending the latter. Fairly lonesome, but oh so special! The Somport pass was no real problem - I just started early. No bus for me. You have the added treat of the hotel at Canfranc Estacion which opened this year (there is also an albergue).

I loved the Canal du Midi. I loved the museums en route. The food was sensational. There was often good municipal accommodation and religious establishments which welcomed pilgrims.

GR 653 as I remember. Fewer and fewer pilgrims…

I especially appreciated going from one country to another. On the other side of the Pyrenees I became adventurous and veered off trail to visit the stupendous church at San Juan de la Peña.

Arles to Montpellier was a bit of a pain.. but I took a Eurostar from London to Avignon, staying overnight, then train to Arles and a few days there.

Stevenson was fun, in the spring, but less demanding, busy and you need to book accommodation. We read the book every night and did encounter the compass going beserk in one location!

 

[Former member 104756]

Just endorsing @filly comments re the Aragones. The restored Canfranc Estacion is fabulous. We didn’t stay there when we were in the area last month - but we wandered around and inside. About 4- 5 kms down the hill is Canfranc Pueblo with a very special donativo albergue that opened just a few years ago.

The Monasteries of San Juan de la Peña are well worth visiting.

 

[Sanman]

I also had another look at my Stevenson Way blog - mostly photos. What a fabulous path . Here are blurry photos of the Credenciale inc elevation maps. I love thé colour coding. The highlighted villages were our stops.

feels like going back to school!

 

[Sanman]

I hiked the GR10 route in 2015, from the Atlantic to the Med in 51 days. I crossed the Camino route in St. Jean-Pied-du Port, hundreds took the Camino route, eight of us carried on along the GR10. That was the year I was 70 and diagnosed with Prostate Cancer, that was in April. I had it surgically removed (by the da Vinci robot) and then and on a whim, I walked the GR10 from July 17th of the same year. On day 17 I realised I had a hernia, and on day 22 I bought a truss and then finished my walk. A mad but enjoyable year and my hernia was repaired two weeks after my return to the UK. I've never had a problem since and have never been on any medication, all thanks to our NHS.

I think you should do an ironman...think you would win your category

 

[Sanman]

Hello! Currently hiking the Ruta de la Lana with temperatures hitting 36 degrees regularly. Just completed 180 kms at an average speed of 5.2 kph and I’m 71! I thought this might be my last hike but Malaga to Baena and Barcelona/Montserrat to Puenta La Reina call for next year…

Anyway, ‘revenons à nos moutons’. I have done the Stevenson and the via Tolosona/voie d’Arles. I like a longer hike and a more ‘religious’ one, so have no doubt in recommending the latter. Fairly lonesome, but oh so special! The Somport pass was no real problem - I just started early. No bus for me. You have the added treat of the hotel at Canfranc Estacion which opened this year (there is also an albergue).

I loved the Canal du Midi. I loved the museums en route. The food was sensational. There was often good municipal accommodation and religious establishments which welcomed pilgrims.

GR 653 as I remember. Fewer and fewer pilgrims…

I especially appreciated going from one country to another. On the other side of the Pyrenees I became adventurous and veered off trail to visit the stupendous church at San Juan de la Peña.

Arles to Montpellier was a bit of a pain.. but I took a Eurostar from London to Avignon, staying overnight, then train to Arles and a few days there.

Stevenson was fun, in the spring, but less demanding, busy and you need to book accommodation. We read the book every night and did encounter the compass going beserk in one location!

Thx so much filly, enjoyed reading your response. So much to think about and it's nice to have a choice!!

 

[andycohn]

Hi Everyone...I'm trying to decide between two walks, the Arles or the Geneva and once in Le Puy then walking the Stevenson Route.

Some background...my wife And I are seniors but fit and experienced walkers. Last year we did Le Puy, this year we did the Norte to Muxia. Both walks were quite manageable but had their moments - long days (30km+), heat, elevation etc. We want a good walk but I don't want to be staggering into town, I know I'm not 25 anymore...I also don't want to tempt fate on an injury on a lonely route - but I'm up for a reasonable challenge.

I understand while both walks are a road less travelled (great) I have read both are quite tough...how tough?

I know that is a relative question (hence our background), we plan to start mid April. I hear for the Arles Way past Montpellier is rough and pass through the Pyrenees is steep and rough and many take the bus (and the trail at this point s not well marked...or you can take the road?) I have ordered the Miam MIam Dodo to read more but would love a first hand account (from someone 50+!)

I have read the Via Gebennensis starts moidestly and then does many 1,000m daily climbs. We did this on the Norte, no problem but the downhills on the wet muddy days was really rough. Any thoughts on how it (or Arles compare to Norte - Le Puy?)

And lastly, The Stevenson looks cool, historic but I haven't read much yet (book on order)...and insights on difficulty?

Thank you all! for any insights.

Hi Sanman, I'm really glad that I wasn't able to respond earlier today, since Pelerina said it all so much better than I could (with good supplemental notes from the others, above).

But just one addition: The beginning of May, which is when you'd hit the Stevenson, is VERY popular with French walkers, since there are major French holidays on May 1 and May 8. Walking during that time period this year we sometimes encountered crowds similar to those on the Frances (not the last part of the Frances, thankfully, but earlier parts), and accommodations are quite full. So, if you're going to walk the Stevenson during that period , I would try and book accommodations as soon as you can, as Filly suggested. We booked in January, and even that far in advance, I had to arrange a few creative detours because places were already full. This is the only time that I've booked accommodations more than a day or two in advance on any of the Spanish or French caminos, but I'm glad I did so.

Also, I was 68 when I walked the Norte, 69 when I walked the Le Puy and 73 when I walked the Stevenson, followed by the Arles / Aragones from Oloron St. Marie to Los Arcos on the Frances. So you'll just cruise along!

(No personal experience myself on the Arles before Oloron St. Marie or the Via Podiensis from Geneva).

 

[Sanman]

Hi Sanman, I'm really glad that I wasn't able to respond earlier today, since Pelerina said it all so much better than I could (with good supplemental notes from the others, above).

But just one addition: The beginning of May, which is when you'd hit the Stevenson, is VERY popular with French walkers, since there are major French holidays on May 1 and May 8. Walking during that time period this year we sometimes encountered crowds similar to those on the Frances (not the last part of the Frances, thankfully, but earlier parts), and accommodations are quite full. So, if you're going to walk the Stevenson during that period , I would try and book accommodations as soon as you can, as Filly suggested. We booked in January, and even that far in advance, I had to arrange a few creative detours because places were already full. This is the only time that I've booked accommodations more than a day or two in advance on any of the Spanish or French caminos, but I'm glad I did so.

Also, I was 68 when I walked the Norte, 69 when I walked the Le Puy and 73 when I walked the Stevenson, followed by the Arles / Aragones from Oloron St. Marie to Los Arcos on the Frances. So you'll just cruise along!

(No personal experience myself on the Arles before Oloron St. Marie or the Via Podiensis from Geneva).

Thx Andy, really really appreciate all these insights and your perspective!!

 

[Suzanne A]

Hello, did the Geneva

Hi Everyone...I'm trying to decide between two walks, the Arles or the Geneva and once in Le Puy then walking the Stevenson Route.

Some background...my wife And I are seniors but fit and experienced walkers. Last year we did Le Puy, this year we did the Norte to Muxia. Both walks were quite manageable but had their moments - long days (30km+), heat, elevation etc. We want a good walk but I don't want to be staggering into town, I know I'm not 25 anymore...I also don't want to tempt fate on an injury on a lonely route - but I'm up for a reasonable challenge.

I understand while both walks are a road less travelled (great) I have read both are quite tough...how tough?

I know that is a relative question (hence our background), we plan to start mid April. I hear for the Arles Way past Montpellier is rough and pass through the Pyrenees is steep and rough and many take the bus (and the trail at this point s not well marked...or you can take the road?) I have ordered the Miam MIam Dodo to read more but would love a first hand account (from someone 50+!)

I have read the Via Gebennensis starts moidestly and then does many 1,000m daily climbs. We did this on the Norte, no problem but the downhills on the wet muddy days was really rough. Any thoughts on how it (or Arles compare to Norte - Le Puy?)

And lastly, The Stevenson looks cool, historic but I haven't read much yet (book on order)...and insights on difficulty?

Thank you all! for any insights.

if you message me I have a lot of info about Geneva route: finished this May and Arles and Aragones route( finished in June). I could share my itinerary with you. Just too much info to post here. I reside on West coast of US so available to talk as well.
Suzanne

 

[Sanman]

Hello, did the Geneva

if you message me I have a lot of info about Geneva route: finished this May and Arles and Aragones route( finished in June). I could share my itinerary with you. Just too much info to post here. I reside on West coast of US so available to talk as well.
Suzanne

HI Suzanne - thx so much, would love the itinerary and any insights you have. I'm not sure if I message you privately thru the Forum (never done that) or you can e-mail me at Sandytherunner@gmail.com Thx again!

 

[billwerme]

Hi Everyone...I'm trying to decide between two walks, the Arles or the Geneva and once in Le Puy then walking the Stevenson Route.

Some background...my wife And I are seniors but fit and experienced walkers. Last year we did Le Puy, this year we did the Norte to Muxia. Both walks were quite manageable but had their moments - long days (30km+), heat, elevation etc. We want a good walk but I don't want to be staggering into town, I know I'm not 25 anymore...I also don't want to tempt fate on an injury on a lonely route - but I'm up for a reasonable challenge.

I understand while both walks are a road less travelled (great) I have read both are quite tough...how tough?

I know that is a relative question (hence our background), we plan to start mid April. I hear for the Arles Way past Montpellier is rough and pass through the Pyrenees is steep and rough and many take the bus (and the trail at this point s not well marked...or you can take the road?) I have ordered the Miam MIam Dodo to read more but would love a first hand account (from someone 50+!)

I have read the Via Gebennensis starts moidestly and then does many 1,000m daily climbs. We did this on the Norte, no problem but the downhills on the wet muddy days was really rough. Any thoughts on how it (or Arles compare to Norte - Le Puy?)

And lastly, The Stevenson looks cool, historic but I haven't read much yet (book on order)...and insights on difficulty?

Thank you all! for any insights.

The Stevenson is really beautiful, great food and moderately challenging except last stage into Alés, we never thought we'd get off that mountain (btw, I was 73 on that hike). The fun just got started in Alés as we jumped on the GR700 and finally the GR42 to the Mediterranean. Take the bus to Montpellier for a couple of days, the Paris of southern France.

 

[Former member 104756]

HI Suzanne - thx so much, would love the itinerary and any insights you have. I'm not sure if I message you privately thru the Forum (never done that) or you can e-mail me at Sandytherunner@gmail.com Thx again!

Hey there @Sanman I think the ´moderators typically delete email addresses and phone numbers in threads when they see them. And ask people to use the Private messaging function to send those details to other members (it’s the little envelope icon) - for privacy protection.

 

[watlaw]

Hello, did the Geneva

if you message me I have a lot of info about Geneva route: finished this May and Arles and Aragones route( finished in June). I could share my itinerary with you. Just too much info to post here. I reside on West coast of US so available to talk as well.
Suzanne

Hi Suzanne

I would also like rhe Geneva Way information and I wonder whether you used the Didier Heumann book if you know it. It may be too recent. Not sure whether you need my email address...

 

[Suzanne A]

@watlaw yes send me your email

 

[watlaw]

@watlaw yes send me your email

watlaw@gmail.com