Bad Pilgrim
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Yes
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Oh again Buen Camino!!
Going to follow you here once again.
It is always interesting to read about other people's experience. I would like to know whether there are others walking this camino - some say it is beginning to be quite crowded, other find they are quite alone most of the time. Am planning for next year and will certainly follow you (have just finished following magwood, followed Laurie before, both of them part of the Mozarabe mob)!
Buen camino!
Just finished walking from Almeria to Alcaudete. Lovely walk, well signposted. Challenging at times. Only met 4 other walkers. The association in Almeria is very enthusiastic and helpful. Paco in Guadix gave us a tour of the city. Hope to continue next year. David and MichaelYou shouldn't have any problem finding your way to Rioja, and beyond. Buen camino!
Just finished walking from Almeria to Alcaudete. Lovely walk, well signposted. Challenging at times. Only met 4 other walkers. The association in Almeria is very enthusiastic and helpful. Paco in Guadix gave us a tour of the city. Hope to continue next year. David and Michael
DAY 2 RIOJA - ALBOLODUY June 23
Sooo hot. This has been the hardest stage so far, albeit short. I haven't trained enough before this Camino so the ups and down almost killed me, especially in the heat. I didn't see a living soul during that middle part amongst the hills. It looked like a lunar landscape to me, but I mean it was beautiful in a way.
The rest of the way to Alboloduy is flat but I was exhausted. Super nice albergue with views over the entire town. An electric fan, hooray. I had a slight headache before I took the siesta so it was probably the beguinning of a sun stroke, but when I woke up I felt OK.
The guidebook says Alboloduy looks like a Christmas card, hmm, hard to see in Summer, but ok it is quite pretty!
The hospitalera is German and married to a Spaniard. She told me a bit about her family and her work for the Asociación. We also talked a bit about the football match as our countries would meet each other in the World Cup the same evening. Unfortunately, Germany won, ha ha. There is a TV in the albergue so I could watch the humiliation unfold.
As David wrote above, the Asociación in the Almeria region is very active and helpful. I hope this will continue along the way!
Oh, I hate my cellphone, my fingers are not made for typing like this. Let me get back to you tomorrow!
Take care!
BP
Wow, I cannot imagine her being rude! That is interesting indeed. Even the day before when we spoke on the phone (I always call one day ahead) I remember thinking how nice she sounded. But hey we are all different. God knows I have had disputes with unfriendly hospitaleros in my life.....Hi, BP, it is so great to hear from you - I’m sure I’m not the only member of the April mob who will enjoy re-visiting (at least from afar and online) this camino in the summer.
Your comment about the German young woman in Albodoluy is so interesting to me, because others told me that she was rude and unhelpful! I only met the Spanish husband, who was extremely nice. Just goes to show once again that people have different moods and different attitudes depending on the day and the circumstances and which side of the bed they got out of. And that being nice to someone is the first pre-requisite for being treated nicely in return!
Just a few more days of that crazy river bed walking. You are a real trooper to do this in the heat, BP!!! Buen camino, Laurie
Oh, I am actually ahead of time so I already finished that stage a few days ago. I will write about it!I remember walking that long flat stretch to Alboloduy and thinking how hard it seemed - that rocky river bed in a head wind is exhausting, and the heat would make it worse.
Tomorrow is another challenge but the views and sense of accomplishment are fabulous. There is a nice little albergue in Ocana if you decide that Abla is too far. Although there seems to be no bar or restaurant in Ocana, you can go into the Centro Social de la 3rd Edad (in the middle of the village) and they will serve some limited food and drink.
I would say that there is quite a lot of pilgrims at the beginning of May. Perhaps someone in the albergues every other day or so. This changes in the middle of May and visits becomes more scarce every week that follows. Good to know if you want to meet people or be on your own! /BPReading this thread with interest as I think this camino will be on the menu next May
A few kilometres after Alboloduy there is a steep, zig-zag climb up a mountain. Be careful and watch your footing! David
I met that lady in March and she was fantastic,,,,,as are all from the Almeria to Granada assoc.,,,,Veronica also is an AngelHi, BP, it is so great to hear from you - I’m sure I’m not the only member of the April mob who will enjoy re-visiting (at least from afar and online) this camino in the summer.
Your comment about the German young woman in Albodoluy is so interesting to me, because others told me that she was rude and unhelpful! I only met the Spanish husband, who was extremely nice. Just goes to show once again that people have different moods and different attitudes depending on the day and the circumstances and which side of the bed they got out of. And that being nice to someone is the first pre-requisite for being treated nicely in return!
Just a few more days of that crazy river bed walking. You are a real trooper to do this in the heat, BP!!! Buen camino, Laurie
Hmm I don't know if I mix up the names but I think Veronika is the one I tried to call several days now, but no answer. But there was always an extra number! I am sure she is nice too :0)
By the way, I phoned Veronica yesterday as well... No answer! Somehow she must have connected her number to Mercedes, cause Mercedes called me back. Mercedes also said that Veronika usually picks up the phone if she is not working and so on - it is so strange that I always catch her in a bad time...! Oh well.I will PM you with Verónica’s phone number. I am SURE she would have been in touch, use WhatsApp. Hope you meet more peregrinos, but it is a lovely walk any way you slice it! I remember that ascent after Albodoluy, and my thought was the same as youre — do this early in the morning because the mountain will shade you from the sun. Just as we reached the top, the sun was starting to peek into the valley floor. Buen camino, Laurie
Well now that I have been walking for a week, I can agree that the Asociación is amazing. They seem to be keeping track of me, sometimes calling me before I am calling them (Mercedes). When they say simple things like I am with you all the way to Granada (Paco), it sure feels comforting!Do try to contact someone at the Association and at least get on their WhatsApp group. They were the best thing about the stages to Granada!
I am sure you are doing juuuuust fine, BP.Now I have to learn to think about OTHER people as well, ough... It is indeed a challenging camino!! :0D
Yay! I am happy to find this thread - though I will likely never walk this Camino, I've really been enjoying the vicarious journey.There is more to come!
Thank you, BP. Somehow this is very comforting. I thought it was my age. All this GPS hi-tech stuff, plus What's App and who knows what all elsemakes me feel cranky...on the Camino I feel like tossing my phone in the bottom of my pack and leaving it there. Permanently.I can't handle such high-tech activities, I am too old for that!! (I am 37 years old, after all.)
... think it would come more naturally if I had contact with them on WhatsApp or Facebook or something, but unfortunately I can't handle such high-tech activities, I am too old for that!! (I am 37 years old, after all.)
.../QUOTE]
@Bad Pilgrim you're 37 y/o??????????????
Are you kidding me?
Is 37 old???Yes, I know I shouldn't be doing this... Every year I say to myself it is the last camino... And then : just one more year to see if this old man still has what it takes!
But with age comes wisdom, don't forget that!
BP
Loving your posts, BP. In La Peza four of us rented a casa rural, so we had private bedrooms and baths. We also were able to feel like we were supporting the common good because the albergue was going to be full and the ASsociation members were carrying inflatable mattresses up and down the Camino. (Don't get used to this treatment, however, it ends abruptly when you hit Granada, and the Granada Association "takes over" -- their attitude is decidedly less helpful and welcoming, but the camino is still gorgeous whatever their attitude).DAY 7 GUÁDIX - LA PEZA June 28
The first 8 kms were really hard to do in the morning. I am always a slow starter and there was a kind of tropical heat already in the morning that made me huff and puff already from start. The reward was Purullena, Marchal and Graena with a sprinkle of bars in the middle of the stage. Then a large chunk of nothing until La Peza.
Purullena and her sister pueblos also have a lot of tourist industry going on, considering the caves. A museum here and an exposition there.
When I entered Marchal I thought the whole town had gone mad: elderly people were walking the streets in their bath robes in the middle of the day. They were even sitting like this in the cafés and bars. Until I saw signs about balneario - spa town. Ok. They hadn't forgotten to dress before going out. It reminded me of a horror movie I saw just before leaving, A cure for wellness, until I understood that no evil forces had twisted their minds.
The last part to La Peza was a real slog, no matter how nice the view of the mountains. The last kms are on the carretera, uphills. I knew there were just a few kms left to go, but in the heat I went slower and slower and it never seemed to end. And to crown it all, a steep descent into La Peza.
La Peza is unfortunately smaller than the previous pueblos of the day. The albergue is the old college school, next to the municipal gym. It was less impressive than the other municipal albergues, but still ok. No AC, but a fridge and a kitchen. And wifi, strangely enough, for a municipal albergue, so far. Some local workers who were coming and going all afternoon seem to use it as some sort of garage for their stuff, so it was kind of a mess on the bottom floor.
From La Peza and onwards, the pueblos have a lot of fountains with cold, refreshing mountain water. In between though, there is not much water to be seen, at least in summer. The messages left in the albergue told me to bunker up food and water, because the next stage would be 27 kms in the mountains with no town on the trail. In my younger days I would easily have done 27kms plus some more, but now, and in the heat...?
To be continued...
BP
One day till Granada, and omg it is a beautiful day. I was totally unprepared for the beauty, and had no idea we would go so close to another monastery in ruins. Get ready for a FUN day, BP.DAY 8 LA PEZA - QUÉNTAR June 29
27 kms without a village until Quéntar. There was information about an alternative route that would pass a small pueblo after 15 kms but I was not in the mood of improvising; I stuck to the waymarks.
So it was a walk in the mountains all day long. I went sooo slow for the first kms, because the ascent that begins in La Peza almost killed me so early in the morning. After a few kms I slapped myself in the face and told myself to speed up a bit, or I would never get to Quéntar!
Very beautiful walk in the woods and the mountains. It reminded me of the stage to Segovia on the Madrid route. This comparison is probably blasphemy to Camino experts of both the Madrid and the Mozárabe, but it was all I could think of... With one big difference: on my way to Segovia, I ran into a lot of hikers and cyclists in the mountains. I was never alone up there. But here, I saw only one cyclist, and only when I got nearer to Quéntar I met a couple who probably was doing some hiking, coming from the pueblo nearby. It is really a great region for walking, but not much people.
Best moment of the day was natural spring after 17 kms, perfect for a break. It is only like 50 mtrs off camino. You can drink the water directly from the stream, at least I did, and there are some tables where to sit down and rest. This is the only water I saw between La Peza and Quéntar!
The descent into Quéntar is brutal. If you arrive on shaky legs and with a dry mouth, it is good to know that: 1) the arrows take you directly to the Ayuntamiento where the Hotel Quéntar is, so there is no need to search for it, and 2) Quéntar probably has the highest concentration of fountains per square meter than any village in southern Spain. I went from one fountain to another to quench my thirst as I made my way to the hotel. Did I mention it was a hot day...?
Hotel Quéntar, finally a touch of luxury...! Two brothers run the hotel and the bar Los Ángeles right next to it. I ordered a plato alpujarreño for dinner: a dish with traditional products from the region. Which is made of 100 % of different kinds of meat, haha. Vegetables are probably banned in this region. How would a vegetarian survive in Quéntar?
Next day would be a short one, to Granada!
See you!
BP
though I know it's too late for you to heed my unsolicited advice!
Yes I am doing a bit of time travelling here... I am now three days behind with my reports! So I am actually in Alcalá la Real today. :0)
In La Peza four of us rented a casa rural, so we had private bedrooms and baths. We also were able to feel like we were supporting the common good because the albergue was going to be full and the ASsociation members were carrying inflatable mattresses up and down the Camino.
Be prepared for the shock of entering Granada! I don't know what tourism is like now in summer, but when we were there in late April it was totally mobbed.
Just to make sure, BP -- you do you have the ASsociation's guide, don't you? It lists places all the way to Merida, and there are albergues after Granada, for sure. (Not that I stayed in many of them, though.Oh, there are many rooms in the albergue: were they all pilgrims to occupy them? I think you did the right thing to choose the Casa Rural. As I wrote, the albergue was more like a storage room and quite a dull place... By the way, are there no more albergues after Granada!? Since then I have started to rely on hostales and casas rurales...
BP
Just to make sure, BP -- you do you have the ASsociation's guide, don't you? It lists places all the way to Merida, and there are albergues after Granada, for sure. (Not that I stayed in many of them, though.) Link to the June version of the guide (it's updated at least once a month)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/117YJXBsekDSnhYwWKNR3MzQFhORECRSe/view
The other thing that we definitely found was that even if there weren't albergues, the associations had negotiated with the owners of private places to give pilgrims a really good deal. So don't book with booking, just contact them directly and see about pilgrim prices.Ooh, now I see them, ok... I thought they disappeared after Granada but I wasn't looking close enough. I think I will try to stay in them to see if the standard keeps up...
BP
Dear BP,Hi everyone,
I am back on the Camino, this time on the Mozárabe from Almería! Well, in two days, at least. I am not saying "Live from the Camino", because I don't know how much live it is going to be. I may just pop in on the Forum to leave a few words from time to time...
I don't know what to add to the description of this route. There are good guidebooks/pages, and several prilgrims have already walked the Mozárabe in 2018. For example C Clearly, Magwood and Laurie, if I am not mistaken. So I won't have many things to add or any information to correct. I will post mostly my impressions of this Camino and hopefully one or two photos...
Tag along! :OD
Byyyye
BP
Yes, I stayed in Lacho a few days ago. The hospitalero was so helpful! I am a few days late with my posts, sorry... I am in Alcaudete now. I think I have seen your name in the registers in the albergue (?).Dear BP,
It must be pretty warm there in the Alboloduy/Nacimiento area.
I walked the Mozárabe this spring. Beautiful camino and good places to stay.
Only "freezing cold" at that time!!!
When in Alquife say hello
to Lacho of the Albergue Lacho.
Buen camino!
André Belgium
Oh no, I just read your post more in detail Laurie. I have already phoned the albergue in Baena, according to my routine, to tell them about my arrival tomorrow. But you say they have gotten bad reviews? Any more details about what? Because now I am tempted to try that hotel you are talking about...!The other thing that we definitely found was that even if there weren't albergues, the associations had negotiated with the owners of private places to give pilgrims a really good deal. So don't book with booking, just contact them directly and see about pilgrim prices.
For instance, while the albergue up in the castle walls in Baeza gets so so to bad reviews, the *** hotel that you see on your right when you come into town gives pilgrims very very nice rooms for 25 euro. But their booking price is in the 40s, I was told.
I’m sure it is fine. People I know who stayed there said the owner is pretty indifferent and the facility is not terrific, but who needs terrific? It is not really an albergue, it’s open to all for tourism, but has an albergue room. I know it costs 10 euros and has one shower. Its booking.com rating is not bad at all. https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/albergue-ruta-del-califato.es.htmlOh no, I just read your post more in detail Laurie. I have already phoned the albergue in Baena, according to my routine, to tell them about my arrival tomorrow. But you say they have gotten bad reviews? Any more details about what? Because now I am tempted to try that hotel you are talking about...!
Hi, BP,Thanks for answering so fast - I will make better choices with your information! Will see what happens tomorrow. I am off to bed now... I have almost no time to do the rest of my posts about the stages...! Too bad!
bp
Thanks, I cannot do a 40 kms stage and I will do anything I can to avoid the 30 ones!!Hi, BP,
Looking back over my notes for the next few days. I walked Baeza to Santa Cruz, almost 43, but you can stop in Castro del Río at 19 km. Jpflavin went to the albergue in Castro and said it was filthy, so he went to Hostal a ka la Sole (yes that’s the name) for 20 euros, he whatsapped me. But I think Maggie and her crew were in the albergue about a week later, so maybe it was cleaned up.
There is supposedly a quicker more direct route into Córdoba from Castro del Río but I don’t know anyone who ever found it. I went Baena to Santa Cruz and then 26 km into Córdoba. Hope you will get some quiet time in the mezquita, it is one of the world’s most amazing buildings.
Santa Cruz has two hostales on the road into town, but I think they are both owned by the same place. They are fine, basic, clean, decent menú del día. Santa Cruz doesn´t have much of anything going on, so arriving at 3 in the afternoon was just fine with me!
Carry on, amigo!
DAY 10 STAGE FROM HELL July 1
I had failed to find the way out of Granada the day before, but I was luckier in the morning. Go to Plaza de Europa and then to the next roundabout where the walk to Maracena begins. Maracena is pretty much a suburb to Granada but a pueblo in its own right. Already here, I noticed that the waymarks began to deteriorate. No big deal, I just had to be extra cautious when walking through Maracena, and then Atarfe a few kms later. Breakfast in Atarfe: all good so far. Right after leaving the center of Atarfe, though, there is a dreadful industrial area that transforms into a single road, on asphalt, that runs forever and ever next to the railway. So all the way from Granada to Pinos Puente it is 19 kms on tarmac. I actually don't mind this kind of terrain, it never makes my feet hurt. But after nearly 20 kms, and a large part of it in a straight line... It was a bit monotonous. When sipping on a café con leche in a bar in Pinos Puente, I thought: I hope there is more of a country walk to Moclín, because I am quite tired of the tarmac now.
Beware of what you wish.
I had decided to go to Moclín the same day, which would make about 35 kms in all. I was well aware of that, and of the steep climb up to Moclín at the end of the stage. But from Pinos Puente to Moclín there would be "only" 13 kms. I thought I would be in Moclín in the blink of an eye. There would also be another pueblo, Olivares, after nine kms.
I left Pinos Puente on the carretera, more asphalt, ok. Then the track veered off to a country road, just as I had hoped. For some km I walked next to an irrigation canal, on my left. Then hell broke loose.
First, the arrows led me into some heavy bushes, a path that was totally overgrown. By now there was the canal to my left, and a small river to my right (but it was getting wider and wider). With this amount of water, the vegetation must grow easily in summer. Perhaps you can get through in April or May : I tell you, the grass was higher than my head. I couldn't see where to put my feet and for some time I walked on just by intuition. The carretera was barred from access because of the river that was running on my right side.
Sure, it only lasted for a few hundred meters, then there was a bridge that could have taken me over the river to the carretera - I wish I had taken the opportunity. But you want to follow the arrows, right...?
After walking in the jungle, the arrows took me to a field with olive groves. I had to slide around in the sand, there was nowhere else to put my feet. By now it was midday heat and I began to panic as I didn't know how long I would have to "walk" in the sand.
Then I had to cross the stream on my right. This further slowed me down. Remove shoes, remove socks. Walking ON STONES with your bare feet. Waiting for your feet to dry before puttning on shoes and socks. (After the walk in the jungle, my socks and shoes looked like hedgehogs so I had to spend an eternity to remove each and everyone of the sticks in them).
At least this brought me nearer the road on my right side. The Camino eventually crossed the road. But you STILL want to follow the arrows, right? So now I changed to the countryside on the left side of the carretera. The arrows took me straight up a hill, that became steeper and steeper until I couldn't go any further. The path wanted me to climb some kind of hill but it would be a suicide mission for anyone, especially with a backpack. I searched for some alternative way to continue and I still had to literally CLIMB to get up that hill. Half-way up I thought my heart would snap, and I never felt that on any Camino. This was not Walking uphills, this was CLIMBING. And I dare you to tell me that those arrows do not point in that direction...! Ok, at the point when I was in the midst of the climbing, when I said my heart would snap, there was no arrow. But there were several ones guiding me up that hill.
When I got to the summit - by crawling on hands and knees and where falling backwards would have broken my neck - and on to a new road amongst the olive groves, there was a bumper sticker, half torn away, on a sign. I drew the conclusion I should turn left. I could see a town a few kms away, to which the road descended. It is just that neither the climb, nor this long descent, figured on my map. I was therefore sure that this town couldn't be Olivares. I decided to go there anyway because after the climbing in the heat I was beaten. Running around up there searching for Olivares would have killed me. I just had to reach some sort of village, anyone would do.
To my great surprise, the yellow arrows appeared as I walked downhill. From where??? Apparently I had followed the Camino. Which surprised me, because half of the Mozarabe pilgrims would be dead by now if they had followed the same way as me. At the same time I was increasingly irritated over the fact that those changes in elevation, to put it mildly, didn't figure on the map???
In Olivares, I dragged myself into the first bar to order something to drink. In the bar there were ten to twelve men screaming at each other. There was no TV or music that made them do this: they were screaming instead of talking. I couldn't stand it so I ran away and luckily found a deserted bar in the center of the village, where I could get some rest.
I was only a few kms away from Moclín so I had to finish the stage. Now the afternoon was approaching and it got even hotter. When leaving Olivares the road splits in two. I inspected the spot but didn't see any arrows. So I took to the left. I walked 100% uphills (again) for at least half an hour, until I saw a town on the other side of the mountain. It made me suspicious as I felt I was walking in the direction that I came from. So I walked down again to the split and when looking closely I saw an arrow. I should have gone right. So this added another extra hour upphill-downhill to the stage. I thought that my five-year-old niece could have done a better jobb painting the arrows on this stage. (That was the least evil thing I said to myself this day. I prefer not to tell you the rest, or the moderators on the Forum will have a very busy day.)
The same was true for the mountain part on the way to Moclín. When there are four different paths crossing in all directions in front of you - who paints an arrow that just points somewhere up in the sky? I spent even more time up there looking for which path was the right one. Once I got to a wider road it was pretty obvious where to go, ok. But when a sign said Moclín 1.8 kms, it might as well have said 18 kms, I didn't care anymore. By now it was 4. 30 pm and I had been walking since 6 am.
Luckily I knew where the owner of the Casa Rural kept the key so I could walk right into the Casa when I arrived. What a relief. An enormous house with all the facilities. But all I could think of was to lay down and rest, to prevent the effects of a heat stroke. At least Moclín was some kind of reward as I really liked the pueblo, the bar and the casa rural... The owner came over later and gave me some info about Moclín and of the stage next day. The town is small so I met him again in the bar and we could keep on chatting about the camino. I watched some of the football in the bar, ate a heavy dinner and slept like a log until next morning...
To be continued
BP
By the way, can I read about Jpflavin's stage somewhere? I searched on his name on the Forum but I didn't find anything about this...Obviously something went wrong on that day to Moclin, BP. It sounds to me like you took the route that @jpflavin1 described to me. I don't know how you guys got on that route with the river crossing. I was just following arrows all the way, and this is what I wrote:
From Pinos Puente, ten km or so of untraveled but asphalt road through nothing but olive groves. There is a point at which the arrows take you off road but the paved road will stay low and take you into Olivares. I went off road and went up through olives and then back down to Olivares. The bar on the other side of the river was open but I was not particularly welcome, it seems. After that there are 3+ kms straight up to Moclin. Beautiful views all the way.
I cannot for the life of me figure out how you guys got to that river crossing, following the camino, I crossed it in Olivares, right at the spot where the unfriendly (at least to me) bar is located. It was probably the toughest stage, from Granada to Moclín, at least IMO. I didn't arrive in Moclín till about 4 pm, but luckily the castle opened up in the afternoon. The fact that you arrived at 4:30 suggests you didn't lose too many kms in detours. I left Granada at about 6:30, had a long break in Pinos Puente, and then another in Olivares.
I've looked through wikiloc.com and see that there are LOTS of differences in tracks on the stage from Pinos Puente to Moclín. I am pretty sure this is the route I took, because you can see the spot at which it loops up rather than hang left on the road (the GR-3413) right into Moclín. https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-mozarabe-2-pinos-puente-moclin-6919742
This is a track that took the left turn onto the road into Olivares, which mean a few kms fewer than me and also avoiding what was an ascent up through olive groves and then down in to Moclín. https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trai...santiago-mozarabe-pinos-puente-moclin-5799782
But you must have done something totally different. I can't find any wikiloc tracs that cross the river before Olivares, but surely there must be some if both you and Joe thought you were on the Camino when you did it.
This would be a good stage for future Mozárabe peregrinos to pay attention to!
Ok, I see it. I went further down the N432 - to a roundabout... And there were arrows... And it is not an alternative for cyclists, I can assure... So from the very first start, I did not follow what wikiloc shows. I think it was the staff in the bar in Pinos puente that pointed me that way. In every junction there were arrows. I think NO pilgrim would want to follow that way, they should hide the arrows in my opinion!!!
By the way, can I read about Jpflavin's stage somewhere? I searched on his name on the Forum but I didn't find anything about this...
BP
From my armchair, well done to you!STAGE 11 MOCLÍN - ALCALÁ LA REAL July 2
After a good night's sleep I was ready to face the stage to Alcalá la Real, a stage of 25 kms, more or less. The first km went downhill from Moclín, to a carretera where I could see no arrow.
There certainly was a rock at the opposite side of the road with a yellow blob on it, which could be interpreted as an arrow, if one used all the efforts of the human imagination. After having studied this postmodern work of art for a good while, I decided it could be taken for an arrow. Ok. I followed it to the left for about a hundred meters... Up and down a small dry riverbed, walking on the edge of an olive grove, and then the path disappeared into the woods (or whatever). That is: the Camino looked as if it was inviting me to repeat the Stage of Death from the day before. No way. I was sure I would have to climb a mountain, swim through a river and be chased by wolves in there. I also thought the map said I should not turn left at all: everytime I crossed a carretera I should turn right. So finally I took the carretera to the right... Big mistake. This added at least one hour of walking in the morning.
When I finally joined the Camino, at Parrales de Santamaria, it was time for the next misfortune. After following the national road for a few hundred meters, the camino turns left, uphill, among olive groves, apparently to save the pilgrims from a wide curve of the road. Well of course I ended up in the olive groves and I don't know how... I had to use my internet roaming device thing because I was really in the middle of nowhere. My cellphone warned me with messages like Are you crazy?? This will cost you a h*ll lotta money! And I was like I don't CARE, just tell me where I am!! I had to draw a straight line from where I was to get to the Cooperativa San Antonio, or to a road that seemed to take me there. The olives were growing on a hill so I basically had to repeat the climbing from the day before and then push through some thick grass and bushes to get to a road. There was no path whatsoever and I could barely get through without my clothes being ripped apart. It was a relief to finally emerge on a road. But I had to use the roaming GPS thing for a good while before I saw a yellow arrow again.
After this I told myself to NEVER leave the asphalt again. But when the Camino left the highway to reach Ermita Nueva, I thought there might be a bar there... And there was, but it looked as if it had been closed since 1986 or something. Well there was a fountain, so I had a break there and wondered if I would ever get to Alcalá la Real alive, as I would get lost several times a day!
The rest of the stage was easier. But a few kms outsider Alcalá, the arrows disappeared. The map told me to cross the highway, jump over a dirty, muddy ditch... And the path dissolved into a field. Oh no, never. I stayed on the road to Alcalá, no matter how much the truckdrivers would honk at me to get me out of the way. Strangely enough, the last hundred meters before Alcalá the arrows appeared again. Was I on the right track all along? By now I was growing increasingly irritated with the waymarking, ever since leaving Granada... But anyway, I was in Alcalá la Real.
I stayed in the hostal Tierra de Frontera. They make their own beer! I am not that fond of beer, but connoisseurs surely want to visit this place. They had the kitchen going already when I arrived. Large tanks were boiling and steaming as in a nuclear plant... Before I understood that it was a brewery, I thought they were preparing the world's largest dinner in those tanks! A really quiet place, just a five minutes walk from the center of Alcalá. I think it could get lively though, if one would coincide with groups of hikers or ciclists who would occupy the rooms... and go through the beer supply all night long...!
Coming up next : Alcaudete!
BP
Ok, BP, you have now convinced me that a GPS on this route makes all the difference. You are having way too many “stages from hell”. At least more than I would enjoy! I know you are days beyond this now, but every potential Mozárabe pilgrim should know it doesn’t have to be so hard. You just have to wimp out and get a GPS and those stages through the olive groves will be heavenly!STAGE 11 MOCLÍN - ALCALÁ LA REAL July 2
After a good night's sleep I was ready to face the stage to Alcalá la Real, a stage of 25 kms, more or less. The first km went downhill from Moclín, to a carretera where I could see no arrow.
There certainly was a rock at the opposite side of the road with a yellow blob on it, which could be interpreted as an arrow, if one used all the efforts of the human imagination. After having studied this postmodern work of art for a good while, I decided it could be taken for an arrow. Ok. I followed it to the left for about a hundred meters... Up and down a small dry riverbed, walking on the edge of an olive grove, and then the path disappeared into the woods (or whatever). That is: the Camino looked as if it was inviting me to repeat the Stage of Death from the day before. No way. I was sure I would have to climb a mountain, swim through a river and be chased by wolves in there. I also thought the map said I should not turn left at all: everytime I crossed a carretera I should turn right. So finally I took the carretera to the right... Big mistake. This added at least one hour of walking in the morning.
When I finally joined the Camino, at Parrales de Santamaria, it was time for the next misfortune. After following the national road for a few hundred meters, the camino turns left, uphill, among olive groves, apparently to save the pilgrims from a wide curve of the road. Well of course I ended up in the olive groves and I don't know how... I had to use my internet roaming device thing because I was really in the middle of nowhere. My cellphone warned me with messages like Are you crazy?? This will cost you a h*ll lotta money! And I was like I don't CARE, just tell me where I am!! I had to draw a straight line from where I was to get to the Cooperativa San Antonio, or to a road that seemed to take me there. The olives were growing on a hill so I basically had to repeat the climbing from the day before and then push through some thick grass and bushes to get to a road. There was no path whatsoever and I could barely get through without my clothes being ripped apart. It was a relief to finally emerge on a road. But I had to use the roaming GPS thing for a good while before I saw a yellow arrow again.
After this I told myself to NEVER leave the asphalt again. But when the Camino left the highway to reach Ermita Nueva, I thought there might be a bar there... And there was, but it looked as if it had been closed since 1986 or something. Well there was a fountain, so I had a break there and wondered if I would ever get to Alcalá la Real alive, as I would get lost several times a day!
The rest of the stage was easier. But a few kms outsider Alcalá, the arrows disappeared. The map told me to cross the highway, jump over a dirty, muddy ditch... And the path dissolved into a field. Oh no, never. I stayed on the road to Alcalá, no matter how much the truckdrivers would honk at me to get me out of the way. Strangely enough, the last hundred meters before Alcalá the arrows appeared again. Was I on the right track all along? By now I was growing increasingly irritated with the waymarking, ever since leaving Granada... But anyway, I was in Alcalá la Real.
I stayed in the hostal Tierra de Frontera. They make their own beer! I am not that fond of beer, but connoisseurs surely want to visit this place. They had the kitchen going already when I arrived. Large tanks were boiling and steaming as in a nuclear plant... Before I understood that it was a brewery, I thought they were preparing the world's largest dinner in those tanks! A really quiet place, just a five minutes walk from the center of Alcalá. I think it could get lively though, if one would coincide with groups of hikers or ciclists who would occupy the rooms... and go through the beer supply all night long...!
Coming up next : Alcaudete!
BP
DAY 10 STAGE FROM HELL July 1
I had failed to find the way out of Granada the day before, but I was luckier in the morning. Go to Plaza de Europa and then to the next roundabout where the walk to Maracena begins. Maracena is pretty much a suburb to Granada but a pueblo in its own right. Already here, I noticed that the waymarks began to deteriorate. No big deal, I just had to be extra cautious when walking through Maracena, and then Atarfe a few kms later. Breakfast in Atarfe: all good so far. Right after leaving the center of Atarfe, though, there is a dreadful industrial area that transforms into a single road, on asphalt, that runs forever and ever next to the railway. So all the way from Granada to Pinos Puente it is 19 kms on tarmac. I actually don't mind this kind of terrain, it never makes my feet hurt. But after nearly 20 kms, and a large part of it in a straight line... It was a bit monotonous. When sipping on a café con leche in a bar in Pinos Puente, I thought: I hope there is more of a country walk to Moclín, because I am quite tired of the tarmac now.
Beware of what you wish.
I had decided to go to Moclín the same day, which would make about 35 kms in all. I was well aware of that, and of the steep climb up to Moclín at the end of the stage. But from Pinos Puente to Moclín there would be "only" 13 kms. I thought I would be in Moclín in the blink of an eye. There would also be another pueblo, Olivares, after nine kms.
I left Pinos Puente on the carretera, more asphalt, ok. Then the track veered off to a country road, just as I had hoped. For some km I walked next to an irrigation canal, on my left. Then hell broke loose.
First, the arrows led me into some heavy bushes, a path that was totally overgrown. By now there was the canal to my left, and a small river to my right (but it was getting wider and wider). With this amount of water, the vegetation must grow easily in summer. Perhaps you can get through in April or May : I tell you, the grass was higher than my head. I couldn't see where to put my feet and for some time I walked on just by intuition. The carretera was barred from access because of the river that was running on my right side.
Sure, it only lasted for a few hundred meters, then there was a bridge that could have taken me over the river to the carretera - I wish I had taken the opportunity. But you want to follow the arrows, right...?
After walking in the jungle, the arrows took me to a field with olive groves. I had to slide around in the sand, there was nowhere else to put my feet. By now it was midday heat and I began to panic as I didn't know how long I would have to "walk" in the sand.
Then I had to cross the stream on my right. This further slowed me down. Remove shoes, remove socks. Walking ON STONES with your bare feet. Waiting for your feet to dry before puttning on shoes and socks. (After the walk in the jungle, my socks and shoes looked like hedgehogs so I had to spend an eternity to remove each and everyone of the sticks in them).
At least this brought me nearer the road on my right side. The Camino eventually crossed the road. But you STILL want to follow the arrows, right? So now I changed to the countryside on the right side of the carretera. The arrows took me straight up a hill, that became steeper and steeper until I couldn't go any further. The path wanted me to climb some kind of hill but it would be a suicide mission for anyone, especially with a backpack. I searched for some alternative way to continue and I still had to literally CLIMB to get up that hill. Half-way up I thought my heart would snap, and I never felt that on any Camino. This was not Walking uphills, this was CLIMBING. And I dare you to tell me that those arrows do not point in that direction...! Ok, at the point when I was in the midst of the climbing, when I said my heart would snap, there was no arrow. But there were several ones guiding me up that hill.
When I got to the summit - by crawling on hands and knees and where falling backwards would have broken my neck - and on to a new road amongst the olive groves, there was a bumper sticker, half torn away, on a sign. I drew the conclusion I should turn left. I could see a town a few kms away, to which the road descended. It is just that neither the climb, nor this long descent, figured on my map. I was therefore sure that this town couldn't be Olivares. I decided to go there anyway because after the climbing in the heat I was beaten. Running around up there searching for Olivares would have killed me. I just had to reach some sort of village, anyone would do.
To my great surprise, the yellow arrows appeared as I walked downhill. From where??? Apparently I had followed the Camino. Which surprised me, because half of the Mozarabe pilgrims would be dead by now if they had followed the same way as me. At the same time I was increasingly irritated over the fact that those changes in elevation, to put it mildly, didn't figure on the map???
In Olivares, I dragged myself into the first bar to order something to drink. In the bar there were ten to twelve men screaming at each other. There was no TV or music that made them do this: they were screaming instead of talking. I couldn't stand it so I ran away and luckily found a deserted bar in the center of the village, where I could get some rest.
I was only a few kms away from Moclín so I had to finish the stage. Now the afternoon was approaching and it got even hotter. When leaving Olivares the road splits in two. I inspected the spot but didn't see any arrows. So I took to the left. I walked 100% uphills (again) for at least half an hour, until I saw a town on the other side of the mountain. It made me suspicious as I felt I was walking in the direction that I came from. So I walked down again to the split and when looking closely I saw an arrow. I should have gone right. So this added another extra hour upphill-downhill to the stage. I thought that my five-year-old niece could have done a better jobb painting the arrows on this stage. (That was the least evil thing I said to myself this day. I prefer not to tell you the rest, or the moderators on the Forum will have a very busy day.)
The same was true for the mountain part on the way to Moclín. When there are four different paths crossing in all directions in front of you - who paints an arrow that just points somewhere up in the sky? I spent even more time up there looking for which path was the right one. Once I got to a wider road it was pretty obvious where to go, ok. But when a sign said Moclín 1.8 kms, it might as well have said 18 kms, I didn't care anymore. By now it was 4. 30 pm and I had been walking since 6 am.
Luckily I knew where the owner of the Casa Rural kept the key so I could walk right into the Casa when I arrived. What a relief. An enormous house with all the facilities. But all I could think of was to lay down and rest, to prevent the effects of a heat stroke. At least Moclín was some kind of reward as I really liked the pueblo, the bar and the casa rural... The owner came over later and gave me some info about Moclín and of the stage next day. The town is small so I met him again in the bar and we could keep on chatting about the camino. I watched some of the football in the bar, ate a heavy dinner and slept like a log until next morning...
To be continued
BP
Ice tea? Are you serious? Oh, you poor thing...Stopped at the first bar and enjoyed an ice tea in the outside area.
...
BP:
As I left Pinos Puente there were two options. One was the main road (to the right and up) and the other was a dirt path straight ahead. Both had arrows. I followed the dirt path and soon was walking through grassy knee high fields (where the path was barely discernible), along a canal. After a control point on the canal I walked through some more grassy fields which turned to small Olive groves. Continued walking up and down small hills while paralleling the stream to the right. After a while, I came to a farm equipment trail which led to the stream. I walked around for a short while looking for a crossing point but could not find one. The stream was about 15 meters wide and moving quickly. Not knowing the depth or bottom I decided to cross with shoes on for traction. I crossed fairly easily but it was thigh high.
From that point, I went up the hill and across the road. Following the arrows I seemed to be paralleling the road but getting higher up. I decided to climb down to the road. After a short while, the arrows appeared agin and I wandered through Olive groves until finally arriving in Olivares. Stopped at the first bar and enjoyed an ice tea in the outside area.
It was a very hot day and the seemingly never-ending 4k climb to Moclin ended about 90 minutes later.
IMO, the toughest day on the Mozarabe.
Joe
Well I don’t want to brag to my two good buddies, but my walk from Granada to Moclin was really manageable and on clear trail the whole time.Ok, I think we both went the same way! Except that you decided to climb down to the road, as you say. That was a wise thing to do! And as for the stream, I can imagine it being wider when you were there. I had to walk through it as well, and it was still wide, but the water only reached my ankles. Yes the last kms uphills to Moclín were really though. As you just read, I went the wrong way down in Olivares, to start with, and I wasn't happy about the waymarks to Moclín either, but I guess that is just me...
Yes ,i agree,,seemed much easier for me too in aprilWell I don’t want to brag to my two good buddies, but my walk from Granada to Moclin was really manageable and on clear trail the whole time.I say this for people going in the future and not to rub it in. I would highly recommend the route I followed, which is posted in #64 on this thread.
Oh no, BP. I am on my phone now so I can’t put in some sad faces. You were at the back door entrance of the Hotel. That’s where deliveries and bicycles go in. The front door is right around the corner, and the hotel faces that very lovely park. So sorry you missed it; at 25€ for a nice private room with great bath, it is quite a bargain. Name is Hotel Casa Grande.ALCAUDETE - BAENA July 4
Baena: nice town, reminiscent of Alcaudete that I had just left. Laurie had told me about a hotel on the way into town, but... It must be closed? It was on my right side, a large sign saying Hotel, but nothing there.
There was a small patio, locked up and empty. I backtracked a few meters to see if I had missed the entrance - no sign of it. What do you think, Laurie? Unfortunately I can't give you its name: the large sign only said Hotel.
BP
Oh no, BP. I am on my phone now so I can’t put in some sad faces. You were at the back door entrance of the Hotel. That’s where deliveries and bicycles go in. The front door is right around the corner, and the hotel faces that very lovely park. So sorry you missed it; at 25€ for a nice private room with great bath, it is quite a bargain. Name is Hotel Casa Grande.
Where are you now, anyway? Why don't you jump up to today and fill in the other days when you get home? Much more fun to read when it's live, that's my unsolicited opinion anyway.Dang! But don't worry: I wasn't determined to stay there, I thought I would just look out for it to see what it was like, then perhaps stay. :0)
Yes I understand. But I would never keep it up to date, anyway... As you can see I only write every other day, so I would still fall behind...!Where are you now, anyway? Why don't you jump up to today and fill in the other days when you get home? Much more fun to read when it's live, that's my unsolicited opinion anyway.
Hahahahahaha, I just can't help not to laugh at this and BP's bad luck. I guess it goes with the monikerOh no, BP. I am on my phone now so I can’t put in some sad faces. You were at the back door entrance of the Hotel. That’s where deliveries and bicycles go in. The front door is right around the corner, and the hotel faces that very lovely park. So sorry you missed it; at 25€ for a nice private room with great bath, it is quite a bargain. Name is Hotel Casa Grande.
Oh, you DO want to walk Invierno, BP!!!Yes I understand. But I would never keep it up to date, anyway... As you can see I only write every other day, so I would still fall behind...!
I am in Castuero now. The hotel Los Naranjos is splendid! I have reserved a casa Rural in Magacela for tomorrow, 15 euros. These last stages before Mérida... I have to leave the stages that the Association suggests and make up the etapas myself, so I can shorten them. But I am approaching my goal!
I have had second thoughts about continuing to the Invierno after Mérida. I don't know if I am done walking, or if I should grab a bus and go to Ponferrada.......
BP
Yes I understand. But I would never keep it up to date, anyway... As you can see I only write every other day, so I would still fall behind...!
I am in Castuero now. The hotel Los Naranjos is splendid! I have reserved a casa Rural in Magacela for tomorrow, 15 euros. These last stages before Mérida... I have to leave the stages that the Association suggests and make up the etapas myself, so I can shorten them. But I am approaching my goal!
I have had second thoughts about continuing to the Invierno after Mérida. I don't know if I am done walking, or if I should grab a bus and go to Ponferrada.......
BP
It is Karma... My past bad deeds and acts!! :0(Hahahahahaha, I just can't help not to laugh at this and BP's bad luck. I guess it goes with the moniker
Second thoughts... :'0(Oh, you DO want to walk Invierno, BP!!!
Why second thoughts at only 37 y/o???Second thoughts... :'0(
Well, far be it from me to give you an opinion on whether you are done walking. BUT if you decide to continue .... the Invierno is really beautiful. You can do short stages, soak up all the culture and history you have room for, enjoy gorgeous scenery, and drink lots of fabulous local wine.
My unsolicited advice: If you do decide to walk the Invierno, make your Day 1 either Borrenes (pension) or Villavieja (albergue). Then stroll on in to As Medulas the next day and spend some time visiting the interpretation centers, walking up to the gorgeous lookout point at Orellan, and pay a euro to go walking through the Roman channels built to blow up the insides of the mountains so they would disgorge their gold.
But back to the Mozarabe -- I have a vague memory that Maggie stayed in the casa rural in Magacela, and I think I remember that it is not in the old upper town. Read her blog here -- https://magwood.me/2018/05/06/camino-mozarabe-stage-23-castuera-to-magacela-35-km/
But that's a 35 km day, so you could always stop in Campanario if you want shorter. If you do, the Pension Malay was probably the worst place I have stayed, and I think the train station albergue is quite nice.
Hang in there, BP!!
Why second thoughts at only 37 y/o???
Well, far be it from me to give you an opinion on whether you are done walking. BUT if you decide to continue .... the Invierno is really beautiful. You can do short stages, soak up all the culture and history you have room for, enjoy gorgeous scenery, and drink lots of fabulous local wine.
My unsolicited advice: If you do decide to walk the Invierno, make your Day 1 either Borrenes (pension) or Villavieja (albergue). Then stroll on in to As Medulas the next day and spend some time visiting the interpretation centers, walking up to the gorgeous lookout point at Orellan, and pay a euro to go walking through the Roman channels built to blow up the insides of the mountains so they would disgorge their gold.
But back to the Mozarabe -- I have a vague memory that Maggie stayed in the casa rural in Magacela, and I think I remember that it is not in the old upper town. Read her blog here -- https://magwood.me/2018/05/06/camino-mozarabe-stage-23-castuera-to-magacela-35-km/
But that's a 35 km day, so you could always stop in Campanario if you want shorter. If you do, the Pension Malay was probably the worst place I have stayed, and I think the train station albergue is quite nice.
Hang in there, BP!!
Thanks for the update, BP, glad to see there have been no stages from hell for a while now. Any more thoughts on whether you are going to walk the Invierno or stop in Mérida?BAENA - CASTRO DEL RÍO July 5
When I left the albergue next morning, the other pilgrim was still asleep. No wonder, as he must have gone to bed around midnight! I assumed he came on a bike, as cyclists sometimes arrive late. But there was no bike inside or outside the albergue. Mystery Pilgrim...! I concluded that he was walking after all, but that he must do some crazy long stages to arrive so late...! I was also sure that I wouldn't meet him again. He was probably in his early 20's and looked fit enough to do stages longer than my own deplorable 20 kms/day. As he was sleeping like a log, I didn't exactly wake him up to say farewell.
I wanted to have breakfast at the modern and spacious café I had found the day before in the town's center: its tagline being El primero del día, The first one of the day. To be open, I assumed. The thing is that it was closed when I arrived in the morning, with virtually EVERY other smaller café around it being opened before...! Beware of how you promote your business. They should call it The LAST one of the day... !
There were only 20 kms to Río del Castro. There would be another albergue like the one in Baena but I had already booked a room in the hostal A Ka La Sole, just because I heard it mentioned among some earlier Mozárabers (Mozárabs?) on this Forum.
I don't recall much of the scenery... I suppose it was mostly olive groves. And there was no other town between Baena and Río del Castro.
The arrows take you straight to the albergue which is on the old square with the church, so it is easy to find if you want to stay there. I was sure Mystery Pilgrim from yesterday wouldn't stay there either: he would surely keep walking all day long. A Ka La Sole is at the far end of town, so it is a walk of about ten minutes if you want to get back to the town's center again. But the hostal was ok. Being far away from the busy center means it is also very quiet, which I appreciate.
Unfortunately the people at the hostal were pretty, uhm, cold. During my whole stay, they wouldn't say anything to me except the most necessary. Here are the keys, here is the room, see you later, bye... The owners was the usual constellation, I think, with a married couple running the hostal and the bar, together with their son. Only the wife would give me one or two smiles while bringing me the dinner, otherwise I didn't get much attention. Oh I don't care, it just struck me as odd, compared to the other places where I have stayed.
I had a peaceful afternoon in Rio del Castro, knowing that I would do another short stage the following day to Santa Cruz. Mundicamino.com wanted me to do a crazy stage of 40 kms to reach Córdoba the next day already: No way, José! By staying in Santa Cruz I would divide that stage in two. No more 40 kms, please! I am not Mystery Pilgrim - just Bad Pilgrim.
/BP
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