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Yes I have a wonderful experience! I chose to be there and I knew it was going to be hard an beauty 50%!Hola Pruden, thank you for sharing your experiences and these lovely pics. Looks like you had a wonderful camino.
Cheers, tom
Thanks Michael for your wonderful words , beautiful camino and looking forward to next one , maybe Camino Olvidado!!I can agree with every word from Pruden.
Its a really wonderful way, we did the Lebaniego/Vadiniense in 2017.
You have to plan more than usual and carry drinks and food for nearly every meter you want to walk.
But this wonderful path is all worth it.
Fantastic photos
Thanks for reading me , I’m just nobody to on this Caminos.Thanks so much, Pruden, lovely pictures! Would you mind sharing your stages? I have a hankering to go back and always like to try to walk different stages. By the way, I walked alone and it was fine. I did get lost at the top of the hill after Cicera as I was trying to find the path to Lebeña. I wound up sliding down through hundreds of meters of what the Spaniards call “maleza.” I wound up with a pair of shredded pants, but luckily I was able to buy a new pair in Potes.
Sorry to bombard you with a couple of questions —
I see Gronze indicates a new routing after Cicera. Since I walked before 2015, I assume I walked what it shows as a dotted line up to the Collado de Arceón, which is where I got lost and had to slide down the hill. https://www.gronze.com/etapa/lafuente/potes
Do you remember anything about that part after Cicera and whether you went on the dotted line or solid line?
When I stayed in Potes, they allowed me two nights in the albergue so I could walk out and back to the monastery (albergue in the monastery was closed) and then carry on the next day without having to stop in the monastery while walking. Did you do that? Loved that Potes albergue — in the former jail, windows opening right onto the river, it was great!
The one thing that would hold me back is all of that asphalt from the end of the Senda da Remoña (I think the asphalt starts right at the Puerto de Pandetrave or close to it). And then from there to the end, it is (or was) nearly all asphalt. I remember Rebekah said that groups were trying to find off-road options — I’m wondering if many of them are in place or it is is all still overwhelmingly road walking.
There was a hope I think that some holy year celebration would have increased traffic on the Lebañiego/Vadiniense, but that doesn’t seem to have happened — did you see anyone else?
Buen camino, Laurie
We walked the same way as Pruden after Cicera and in my map its the new way, not crossing Collado Arcedon.
The way down is sometimes really steep and for sure not the best for you knees, but very beautiful.
And as Pruden said........."In Allende don´t take the right way "
Please, don´t do it. My sister and I did it - 1,5km distance with 300 mtr altitude difference
I still feel my burning lungs and my heavy legs today.
When we were up it was a view to fall on your knees, spectacular. But the way up in the sun was like the hell.
I am definitely going to have to return. Probably the scariest road walking experience of any camino was on the road into Potes, along the N-621. So glad to see that Gronze doesn’t even show it anymore.
If only there were not so much asphalt after you get through the Picos and the Puerto de Pandetrave.... Maybe now that I am wearing Altras, though, my feet would tolerate it better. I think I was still wearing hiking boots on the Vadiniense!
From pandrave down to Portilla is the worst, especially if it’s a hot day ( ten kilometers of asfalt)!
Pruden, thanks so much for the information. Did you continue all the way to Mansilla de las Mulas? Would love to hear how those stages went for you. The stages you gave stop in Horcadas.
I found this casa rural in Horcadas, which must be where you stayed. https://casa-rural-nevada.negocio.site. If I go back, I will definitely push on to this place, because Riaño is a weird little artificial town, built when the real town was flooded.
And that would make it easy to get to Cistierna the next day, brilliant staging, @Pruden!
When I walked, my feet just self-destructed from all that asphalt, and by Gradefes I was hobbling. So I never walked from Gradefes into Mansilla, it was my very first Camino bus! That gives me a reason to go back. And another great reason is the absolutely gorgeous church in San Miguel de la Escalada.
Thanks so much for all this info, buen camino, Laurie
Hola Pruden,From pandrave down to Portilla is the worst, especially if it’s a hot day ( ten kilometers of asfalt)!
Looking at May time, do you think there might be too much snow, ?
Thanks Anamya,There was snow in April this year after the Monastery of Liebana, but up to that point (4 days of walk), no snow at all. Also little asphalt in that path.
It is practically impossible to predict the weather, but if you look at historical averages, you may have a little snow in May, but not much, as you are going through Spring.
Tempted to book my flights, and then my next camino is semi- organised
Thanks Anamya,
I realise it is impossible to predict the weather , even a week ahead, never mind six months, and in the mountains, I was doing what a lot of people do on here, talking out loud, and if you get a reply that's a bonus !
Tempted to book my flights, and then my next camino is semi- organised,,
Good to know that there is little asphalt, so my shins/ tendons should be happy on this camino.
Bill
I believe she is talking only about the Lebañiego from San Vicente to the monastery after Potes.
Thanks Laurie, might be worth walking just the Lebaniego, to the monastery after Potes, I will have to look into getting some maps and guide books for the Picos de Europa, tarmac walking is my least favourite kind,Hi, Bill,
When @Anamaya says there is little asphalt, I believe she is talking only about the Lebañiego from San Vicente to the monastery after Potes. That was not my experience, however, but I walked years ago. I know there has been some re-routing, so that may have decreased the asphalt on those three days.
But more to your point, the Vadiniense, from the monastery down to the Francés at Mansilla is almost all asphalt, except for the part to Fuente Dé and beyond on the Senda da Remoña. But from there, the road definitely is the predominant path. Again I have to say that I don’t know if things have been re-routed, and much of this asphalt was on very untraveled roads, but it was asphalt nonetheless.
Lots of lovely scenery in the first part, what’s not to like about walking in the Picos de Europa?! Buen camino, Laurie
Thanks Anamya sounds like you had a good walk,Hi Bill
If you check this topic, you can read a bit of my Lebaniego in April this year. We walked after my husband recovered from a seizure, and I tried to be detailed. Other forum members also contributed with information of past walks and videos.
Despite being short, the Lebaniego was the toughest and most beautiful of the 3 caminos I walked.
If it were me, I'd consider going on from the monastery to Fuente De, and on the Senda da Remoña. You could go back to Fuente Dé when you emerge from the Senda at the Puerto de Pandetrave, or continue walking along the road to Portilla de la Reina and end there. But that stretch is gorgeous.Thanks Anamya sounds like you had a good walk,
Your packs were quite light did you need to carry sleeping bags ?
Be tempted to walk to Potes from SanVicente de la Barquera, and then walk back , maybe going by some of the variants. I was along the mountains from you in april, I walked the Primitivo, flew to Santander, and bus past SanVicente and onto Oviedo.
Bill
Thanks Laurie, good time to be planning during these short days,If it were me, I'd consider going on from the monastery to Fuente De, and on the Senda da Remoña. You could go back to Fuente Dé when you emerge from the Senda at the Puerto de Pandetrave, or continue walking along the road to Portilla de la Reina and end there. But that stretch is gorgeous.
And though my blog is old (I walked in 2011), there are some good picturtes. http://caminovadiniense.blogspot.com/If it were me, I'd consider going on from the monastery to Fuente De, and on the Senda da Remoña. You could go back to Fuente Dé when you emerge from the Senda at the Puerto de Pandetrave, or continue walking along the road to Portilla de la Reina and end there. But that stretch is gorgeous.
Thanks Laurie, I see you then walked onto the Salvador , to Oviedo, has the Salvador less tarmac/ asphalt ?And though my blog is old (I walked in 2011), there are some good picturtes. http://caminovadiniense.blogspot.com/
And just looking through my posts, it confirms my impression that those days from San Vicente to Potes were nearly all asphalt. So things must have radically changed since Anamaya says she had very little. I know there has been a re-routing through Cades and maybe something to take you off the most dangerous road walking into Potes, but I think that there must be a lot more.
Thanks Laurie, I see you then walked onto the Salvador , to Oviedo, has the Salvador less tarmac/ asphalt ?
Bill
Your packs were quite light did you need to carry sleeping bags ?
Be tempted to walk to Potes from SanVicente de la Barquera, and then walk back , maybe going by some of the variants. I was along the mountains from you in april, I walked the Primitivo, flew to Santander, and bus past SanVicente and onto Oviedo.
Is there anyway to get phone numbers of the accommodation or the names of the accommodation?Thanks for reading me , I’m just nobody to on this Caminos.
I’ll try to answer you even my English is limited, I did walk alone in some parts of the etapas , I make San Vicente to Cades , Cabañes, San Pelayo, Espinama, Portilla de la Reina , Horcadas , Cistierna,Gradefes,Mansilla de las Mulas .
To tell you the truth after Cicera we went up just after you cross a little river, we pass a beautiful forest with huge beech trees , and when we got to the top after a very stiff climb we have a beautiful view, then we entered an oaks forest, going up for a while before going down on a very stiff descent ( making on the walking down what we call a Z all the way down to Lebeña and it was no easy walking for my knees). I can not tell you if this is collado Arceon or not because we did no see clearly the arrow one way or the other because we were talking.)But anyway the crossing from Cicera to Lebeña was extremely beautiful.
Then we went up to Allende and took the there the signed left way ( don’t take the right one) we were time after on the side of the noisy river cover with deep vegetation like in the pure jungle) and staying at Cabañes albergue , very good stay .
I did not stay in Potes and walked to San Pelayo Albergue ( just been made new inside).
After climbing up from Espinama and on the other side to Pandrave the is no option but the asfalt ( but maybe could walk for few kilometers on The Valley before the two river met), the rest is asfalt and feet get really broken.)
We only were most of the time 5 or 6 pilgrims that sometimes we ended up at the same place to spend the night.
We were lucky because we crossed the mountains in time before the storm and snow ❄ came the next day when we were passing Riaño .and could see the snow on the peeks near.
The first Etapa we walked side to the Nansa River.
I suggest the following places to stay, ( Cades was no good if I looked at other albergues , there is no option), Cabañes Albergue, San Pelayo Albergue, Espinama close to the river ( don't remember the name ) but it’s a private albergue very good, Portilla ( it’s a casa rural ruled by a Mexican born lady, Horcajadas casa rural it’s wonderful, ( used to be a municipal albergue).
What are Altras? I have hiking boots...Planning my first Camino, part Norte part Lebaneigo, for early April....comments? Help...? Is 28.5.km 300m stage too ambitious? Thanks!I am definitely going to have to return. Probably the scariest road walking experience of any camino was on the road into Potes, along the N-621. So glad to see that Gronze doesn’t even show it anymore.
If only there were not so much asphalt after you get through the Picos and the Puerto de Pandetrave.... Maybe now that I am wearing Altras, though, my feet would tolerate it better. I think I was still wearing hiking boots on the Vadiniense!
Altras are trail runners, which are like a more heavily constructed and grippy running shoe. They are perfect for the Camino, at least for me. Do a search and you will see tons of great posts by @davebugg (and others, but especially Dave). My own opinion after reading tons and tons of posts here is that hiking boots are generally way too much shoe for camino walking, which always has a lot of asphalt and crushed rock trails. I have worn them now for three years, three caminos, and I will never change. Last year I walked some pretty heavy duty mountain stages on the Olvidado, they were great. The time when I appreciate them the most is when I have a multi-km slog on asphalt at the end of the day heading into the destination -- my feet never get that achy weary feeling, and I am good to go for 35-40 kms with no regrets.What are Altras? I have hiking boots...Planning my first Camino, part Norte part Lebaneigo, for early April....comments? Help...? Is 28.5.km 300m stage too ambitious? Thanks!
Well you didn’t ask my opinion, so feel free to disregard it but I, and many other camino veterans/addicts on the forum, are likely to recommend the Francés as a “first camino”. Since you will be going in early April, especially, because there just won’t be all the crowds. You are very likely to totally enjoy the Norte/Lebañiego but it might strike you as just another nice 5-day hike. And IMO the Camino is so much more than that. I think you might consider five nights from Pamplona, or from Burgos or Leon, and that will give you a good introduction to what all the Camino mystique is.Thanks, Laurie, for your swift reply. I've really appreciated all your posts. We're torn between the Frances and Norte/Lebaniego - we only have 5 nights in early April....We're fit but this is our first Camino and I was concerned about one 28.5km stage...
Also...I'm worried about the weather in early April in the Pyrennes...?
Thanks, again - why do you both feel this way about CF? And would 5 nights from Pamplona provide whatever you're recommending...? We can't get to Santiago this trip as we fly into San Sebastien, and fly out of Madrid....
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