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Casa Navarro in O Cebreiro or Linar do Rei in Linares?

jsalt

Jill
Time of past OR future Camino
Portugués, Francés, LePuy, Rota Vicentina, Norte, Madrid, C2C, Salvador, Primitivo, Aragonés, Inglés
Your opinions please! I am putting together an itinerary for my non-walking husband and me to walk a few days together in July next year. I am so excited that he wants to do this with me, so I want to get it “right”.

By “non-walking” I mean that he enjoys a day-hike in the countryside occasionally, but not day after day like I do. He’s tried albergues and they are definitely not his thing, and would rather have the comfort of a private room, but we are always on a budget, so we have to consider the cost.

So, to get to the point, I can book a room in Herrerias for one night on the itinerary, and we walk up to O’Cebreiro next morning. But should we stay at Casa Navarro, or walk on to Linar do Rei?

He is over 70 but fit (fitter than me!), so the climb won’t faze him (and we’ll go slowly and take our time anyway). The problem is, if we stay in O’Cebreiro it will be about 21kms the next day to Triacastela. If we stay in Linares it will be a more manageable 18kms.

I can picture him already on the 21km day moaning about this that and the other. I can also picture him at Linar do Rei, wondering why I had chosen this isolated place for an overnight stop (especially if the albergue is full of noisy pilgrims partying).

Which one would you opt for?

Another option might be to taxi half way and walk half way from O’Cebreiro. Any thoughts about that? Is there a bus we can catch anywhere along that section?

After Triacastela we’ll walk only 10kms the next day to Samos.
Jill
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Linares is fairly isolated. We stayed there last year as everything in O Cebreiro was booked out days ahead. (we don't use Albergues though.) In Linares we stayed at Casa Jaime. Rooms were OK. Quiet. Food very basic.

As you know the walk from there to Triacastela is largely a gentle downhill and not too arduous.... (just one short steep section as I recall prior to the Pilgrim Statue) I'm not sure the extra 3 kms from O Cebreiro would really make it that much harder. Gentle downhill too through the woods. And if you took your time there are lots of cafe stops along the way. Last cafe on the left as you leave Fonfria always has yummy homemade cakes! (and a lovely log fire)

If all else falls, taxi the last few kms.......
 
O Cebreiro - there is much more of interest there, and the church - and as @Robo says, it's (mostly) downhill to Triacastella. (Admitting bias here, as I've never liked the 'feel' of Linares.)
 
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€83,-
I stayed in Linares, beautiful Albergue but no where to eat as the only restaurant was closed. If I had the choice again I'd stay in O'Cebriero.
Buen Camino
 
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
O'Cebreiro would get my vote. If you are wanting to showcase the experience, there is something magical about the village in the fog (if you get lucky). The inn/bar (to the right as you walk away from the church) has a fireplace, perfect on a cold wet evening.

You could taxi the next morning Liñares or to the pilgrim statue and walk from there.
 
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O Cebreiro - there is much more of interest there, and the church - and as @Robo says, it's (mostly) downhill to Triacastella. (Admitting bias here, as I've never liked the 'feel' of Linares.)
Agree with everyone, and the 3 extra kilometers isn't really all that much to gain a better experience.
 
"""So, to get to the point, I can book a room in Herrerias for one night on the itinerary, and we walk up to O’Cebreiro next morning. But should we stay at Casa Navarro, or walk on to Linar do Rei?"""
STAY IN HERRERIAS, SEVERAL NICE PLACES TO STAY. I stayed in a hotel last time that was also an albergue.
THEN STAY IN OCEBREIRO. There is so much history there and lots of places to stay and eat. The church is not to be missed and actually open.
INSTEAD OF WALKING TO TRIACASTELA STAY IN FONFRIA. I love this place the owner Angela makes the best meal on the Camino and will even make a Quemada (maybe not spelled right) on request. The dinner is served in a round building with the straw looking pointed roof.- there's a name for it that escapes me. This option divides the trip to Samos into more equal length.
Buen Camino
 
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And great food in the restaurant at the back! (Through the shop)
 
Many thanks for all your replies, much appreciated. O’Cebreiro it is . . . and booked!
 

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