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Hi Stefania, I was also confused by all the options before our September walk from Lisbon. I aimed to do the "most historic", "most 'popular'" but avoiding what I heard was the dangerous walk along the roads out of Porto. In the end, we were quite happy with the walk we did. We followed arrows as best as possible from Lisbon to Porto. Out of Porto, we chose to walk to Matosinhos just using a map(a 2-3 hour walk from Porto), then cross over the bridge walk to the coast along the road or boardwalk, again using more map than arrows, up to Vila do Conde (a one day walk from Matosinhos). From VdC, we were able to follow arrows up to Rates where we rejoined the more traditional route out of Porto. From there, it was up to Barcelos, Port de Lima, Rubiaes, Valenca, Tui, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldes de Reis, Padron, Santiago. There is a link below from my blog that describes that walk.Hi to all who hike the Portugues Camino and those considering it!
I have been reading many great comments but when reading the town to town descriptions of routes people have taken I get confused about the "Interior" and "Coastal" routes. I do understand that many who walk the coastal "cut over" to the interior at different spots along the way. Can someone identify for me which towns are in which routes? Also are there more than 2 routes? Also do Brierly/CSJ show both routes or what?
This looks like a great camino and I would like to consider it if I understand better.
Thanks for any help!
Stefania
The Coastal detour from Porto Sé cathedral to Matosinhos Mercado where the bridge is over the Leixoes harbour is 10 kms .From there along the Atlantic coast boardwalk it is 20 kms to Vila do Conde. From there you can access the interior route by walking to São Pedro de Rates or walk on along the Atlantic coast to Póvoa da Varzím and Esposende what they call the coastal route .Hi Stefania, I was also confused by all the options before our September walk from Lisbon. I aimed to do the "most historic", "most 'popular'" but avoiding what I heard was the dangerous walk along the roads out of Porto. In the end, we were quite happy with the walk we did. We followed arrows as best as possible from Lisbon to Porto. Out of Porto, we chose to walk to Matosinhos just using a map(a 2-3 hour walk from Porto), then cross over the bridge walk to the coast along the road or boardwalk, again using more map than arrows, up to Vila do Conde (a one day walk from Matosinhos). From VdC, we were able to follow arrows up to Rates where we rejoined the more traditional route out of Porto. From there, it was up to Barcelos, Port de Lima, Rubiaes, Valenca, Tui, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldes de Reis, Padron, Santiago. There is a link below from my blog that describes that walk.
Finally, one thing I learned from this walk was that I worried less about following exactly every arrow. When I walked the French route in 2012, I was keen to be on every single step of the "real" Caminho. This time, I didn't exactly look for shortcuts but if I realized I wasn't on the arrows, or more likely just couldn't find them, I just used google maps or common sense to find my way to where I wanted to be.
Thanks so much for your comments. Now that I look at that map carefully is see there are several possible routes but the Caminho Central (blue route) is the "Inland". I have a friend who might want to walk this with me but she is worried about walking on roads (knee troubles). Can you walk the Central/Inland route from Porto to Santiago without hitting lots of paved roads? Also she might want to stay in pensions or CRs is it possible to do on the Central/inland with moderate distances most days?Hi, Stefania,
For starters, the CSJ guide only shows the interior route. The coastal options are north of Porto, so from Lisbon to Porto you don't have choices, unless you want to detour to Fatima. I've only walked the interior route, but my understanding is that you can head to the coast from Porto and then take the coastal route as far north as Vigo, where you will then head east and join up with the interior route in Redondela. There are lots of options for heading back inland and joining the interior route. I think that the best map, showing all the options, is here: http://www.caminador.es/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/RELIEVE-PORTO-REDONDELA-IMPr.pdf
I've heard nothing but great things about the coastal route, so it's now on my very long list of "Caminos I would love to walk." Buen camino, Laurie
Michael: Thanks so much for the detailed description. This sounds really good to me. Using the map Laurie had in her link makes that very clear. Much appreciated.Hi Stefania, I was also confused by all the options before our September walk from Lisbon. I aimed to do the "most historic", "most 'popular'" but avoiding what I heard was the dangerous walk along the roads out of Porto. In the end, we were quite happy with the walk we did. We followed arrows as best as possible from Lisbon to Porto. Out of Porto, we chose to walk to Matosinhos just using a map(a 2-3 hour walk from Porto), then cross over the bridge walk to the coast along the road or boardwalk, again using more map than arrows, up to Vila do Conde (a one day walk from Matosinhos). From VdC, we were able to follow arrows up to Rates where we rejoined the more traditional route out of Porto. From there, it was up to Barcelos, Port de Lima, Rubiaes, Valenca, Tui, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldes de Reis, Padron, Santiago. There is a link below from my blog that describes that walk.
Finally, one thing I learned from this walk was that I worried less about following exactly every arrow. When I walked the French route in 2012, I was keen to be on every single step of the "real" Caminho. This time, I didn't exactly look for shortcuts but if I realized I wasn't on the arrows, or more likely just couldn't find them, I just used google maps or common sense to find my way to where I wanted to be.
Thanks so much Albertinho,Olá Stenania !
Please take your map and follow the coastal and interior route :
The route starts in Porto at the Sé cathedral. Walk along the river Douro and the Atlantic Ocean to Matosinhos and northwards on to Vila do Conde. Keep the ocean at your left side. There you have two options. Walk the interior to São Pedro de Rates and Barcelos on to Ponte de Lima, Rubiaes, Valença do Minho/Tui, o Porriño, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis ,Padrón to Santiago. Or head for the coast to Póvoa da Varzím, Esposende, Viana do Castelo , Vila Nova d'Âncora to Caminha. Here you have the option to merge in the interior by walking to Vila Nova de Cedreira to Valença/Tui. Or take the ferryboat/boat taxi to a Guarda from Caminha and walk on to Oia, Baiona, Vigo to Redondela alongside the Atlantic coast and pick up the interior route to o Porriño and on as described above to Santiago.
In Porto starts the the original interior route to Vilarinho and on to São Pedro de Rates ,Barcelos etc. But here you walk through a very busy area north of Porto alingside busy mitorways so highly advised is to walk directly to the coast to Matosinhos. This part John Brierley descibes in his guide as the coastal detour out of Porto.
Complicated ? No. Just look on your map and you'll see the different routes,all leading to Santiago de Compostela.
Bom caminho.
Thanks Annie,@Stefania13/14
I have walked the coastal twice this year so if you have any questions, please let me know.
Buen camino
Are you thinking of starting from Porto, Lisbon or some other city? South of Porto, it's easy to stay out of hostels / albergues if you want to but the few there are before Porto, like in Santarem and Tomar, they also have private rooms in addition to dorms. North of Porto, of the cities I stopped at, we only stayed in albergues in Rubiaes and Redondela. There might be a B&B in Redondela but we didn't look. If I recall correctly, with prior reservations, there was a small / popular B&B just before Rubiaes that could keep you out of their albergues. Most B&Bs / pensions / hotels / motels we paid 25-35 euros for a double room. That would usually be en-suite, most times with wi-fi, sometimes with laundry, occasionally with breakfast but always with a good story or entertainment. Buen Camino!Thanks so much Albertinho,
You and others responding to my question have just been great! Your details also help a bunch. I feel much more confident now than yesterday ; ) Since you used Brierley did you find it helpful besides the map portion? I have a friend that might want to walk this with me and she would want to stay in CRs or pensions not albergues - is it possible on the route you described?
Stefania
Stefania. We used the complete Brierley guide for sideinformation and addresses to sleep. We found it very useful.Thanks so much Albertinho,
You and others responding to my question have just been great! Your details also help a bunch. I feel much more confident now than yesterday ; ) Since you used Brierley did you find it helpful besides the map portion? I have a friend that might want to walk this with me and she would want to stay in CRs or pensions not albergues - is it possible on the route you described?
Stefania
Hi, Stefania,
For starters, the CSJ guide only shows the interior route. The coastal options are north of Porto, so from Lisbon to Porto you don't have choices, unless you want to detour to Fatima. I've only walked the interior route, but my understanding is that you can head to the coast from Porto and then take the coastal route as far north as Vigo, where you will then head east and join up with the interior route in Redondela. There are lots of options for heading back inland and joining the interior route. I think that the best map, showing all the options, is here: http://www.caminador.es/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/RELIEVE-PORTO-REDONDELA-IMPr.pdf
I've heard nothing but great things about the coastal route, so it's now on my very long list of "Caminos I would love to walk." Buen camino, Laurie
It is a bit confusing on the map but the way out of Porto by the detour as written down by John Brierley is the green dotted line. From Porto center (Sé Cathedral) walk to the riverside and head southwards untill you arrive at the end of the river where it flows into the ocean Follow the boardwalk alongside the ocean (at your left side and you will arrive in Matosinhos. Follow the yellow waymarks untill you arrive at metrostop Mercado and the bridge over the Porto HarbourThanks for the map, Laurie!
But I'm confused..... On the map, there is the Senda da Orla Litoral (in green) and the Caminha da Costa (in red).
They overlap occasionally, but seem to be distinct routes most of the time?
When they don't overlap, the Senda Litoral is closer to the coast than the Caminha da Costa.
Also, the Senda Litoral goes through Matosinhos outside of Porto on the way to Vila do Conde, like I understood the Coastal Camino would.....
but the Caminha da Costa on the map does NOT go through Matosinhos.
Is the Senda da Orla Litoral actually the Coastal Camino we're discussing here?
Also, are the Senda da Orla Litoral and the Caminha da Costa both clearly and distinctly waymarked from Porto to Redondela?
Thanks Annie,
When did you walk and what was the weather like? Also did you meet many pilgrims along the way? I don't mind walking alone but I like to visit with people at the end of the day.
Stefania
Thanks for the map, Laurie!
But I'm confused..... On the map, there is the Senda da Orla Litoral (in green) and the Caminha da Costa (in red).
They overlap occasionally, but seem to be distinct routes most of the time?
When they don't overlap, the Senda Litoral is closer to the coast than the Caminha da Costa.
Also, the Senda Litoral goes through Matosinhos outside of Porto on the way to Vila do Conde, like I understood the Coastal Camino would.....
but the Caminha da Costa on the map does NOT go through Matosinhos.
Is the Senda da Orla Litoral actually the Coastal Camino we're discussing here?
Also, are the Senda da Orla Litoral and the Caminha da Costa both clearly and distinctly waymarked from Porto to Redondela?
This is excellent information if you want to walk all the way along the coast Annie .Hola @Stefania13/14 ,
The one and only guide I used is written by Mr Luis Freixo (www.caminador.es). I also used google maps occasionally
Below you can see my caminos and the name of the cities where I stayed for night.
The colours refer to the different colours the different routes are marked with in Mr Freixo´s online guide.
The first time was in May, 2014 when I started from Porto Sé Cathedral and walked :
the Coastal route/ Senda Litoral to Matosinhos, Vila do Conde, Apulia, Viana do Castelo, Caminha(Portugal).
the Central/ Historical/ Inland Route to Tui(Spain), Mos, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Teo, Santiago.
The second time was in September 2014
the coastal route/ Senda Littoral Viana de Castelo (Portugal), A Guarda (Spain), Mougas, A Ramallosa, Vigo.
the central route Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Padron, Santiago.
The weather was great most days - no need for rain gear when I was walking but I can imagine the conditions are guite different if it rains and a cold wind is blowing hard from the Atlantic ocean.
You will be walking alone most likely but if you stay in the albergues you will meet other pilgrims in the evenings.
I like this route and will be walking again next year from Lisbon to Porto and then the coastal all the way to Padron and Santiago.
Buen camino
This is what I need myself for our next caminho, following that route.Accomodation between Porto and Redondela all routes (thank you Mr Freixo).
Of course there are also many hotels, hostals and other accomodation all along the route. not mentioned here:
View attachment 14805
Is the Senda da Orla Litoral actually the Coastal Camino we're discussing here?
Also, are the Senda da Orla Litoral and the Caminha da Costa both clearly and distinctly waymarked from Porto to Redondela?
As you already might know the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route are not the same but two different routes the Senda (=mening path) Litoral (=coast) following closest to the coast line. So sometimes you are on the Senda and sometimes on the Coastal Route.
And yes, the route is well marked but sometimes you might be on the Senda and sometimes on the Coastal and not for the time knowing on which. But you are walking to the right direction and suddenly when you need to see an arrow VOILA there you see it
Buen camino
Thank you so much Annie,Hola @Stefania13/14 ,
The one and only guide I used is written by Mr Luis Freixo (www.caminador.es). I also used google maps occasionally
Below you can see my caminos and the name of the cities where I stayed for night.
The colours refer to the different colours the different routes are marked with in Mr Freixo´s online guide.
The first time was in May, 2014 when I started from Porto Sé Cathedral and walked :
the Coastal Route/ Senda Litoral to Matosinhos, Vila do Conde, Apulia, Viana do Castelo, Caminha(Portugal).
the Central/ Historical/ Inland Route to Tui(Spain), Mos, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Teo, Santiago.
The second time was in September 2014
the Coastal Route/ Senda Litoral Viana de Castelo (Portugal), A Guarda (Spain), Mougas, A Ramallosa, Vigo.
the Central Route Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Padron, Santiago.
The weather was great most days - no need for rain gear when I was walking but I can imagine the conditions are guite different if it rains and a cold wind is blowing hard from the Atlantic ocean.
You will be walking alone most likely but if you stay in the albergues you will meet other pilgrims in the evenings.
I like this route and will be walking again next year from Lisbon to Porto and then the coastal all the way to Padron and Santiago.
Buen camino
Thanks Albertinho. I will start looking back for that info.Stefania. We used the complete Brierley guide for sideinformation and addresses to sleep. We found it very useful.
If you read back a while on this forum you will find all the info of the entire caminho we walked from Lisbon to Santiago aswell from Claudia aka Amorfati1
Only one and a half month ago we wrote this information down. I shal see if I find it back easily
Walking from Vigo is the easiest way. Keep the Atlantic at your right all the way and you'll end up in Porto.Thanks for all the great info, Annie!
So it seems that the the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route are well waymarked, but not necessarily distinctly waymarked as separate routes? So when we leave our accomodation in the morning and start following that first yellow arrow we find, we may end up on either route..... but it doesn't matter?
It seems from what you're saying (and by looking at the map Laurie posted) that the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route come together at the main points of accomodation anyway?
My other issues is that we will be walking the route in reverse. Our main camino is the Norte/Salvador/Primitivo/Fistera-Muxia. But we are in Spain for 3 months and fly out of Lisbon. Given the time to do so, we hope to walk from Santiago to Porto, before bussing to Lisbon for our flight home.
Can anyone comment on walking the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route in reverse (or, for the matter, the Central/Interior route in reverse)?
I expect we'll walk from Santiago to Redondela, and then make up our mind then as to whether to head towards Vigo or Tui from there.
RIGHT?!?!?Walking from Vigo is the easiest way. Keep the Atlantic at your right all the way and you'll end up in Porto.
You agree with me Stephen or is it the right side ?RIGHT?!?!?
Hi Stefania just back from the Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago. Travelled by metro from Porto to Matosinhos then took the coastal route to Vila De Conde. Stayed in Vila De Conde and the next day got a taxi to Rates, joined the interior route, and proceeded to Barcelos. The reason for the taxi is the way marking is poor and the road is very busy from Vila De Conde to Rates, and I needed the yellow arrows.Hi to all who hike the Portugues Camino and those considering it!
I have been reading many great comments but when reading the town to town descriptions of routes people have taken I get confused about the "Interior" and "Coastal" routes. I do understand that many who walk the coastal "cut over" to the interior at different spots along the way. Can someone identify for me which towns are in which routes? Also are there more than 2 routes? Also do Brierly/CSJ show both routes or what?
This looks like a great camino and I would like to consider it if I understand better.
Thanks for any help!
Stefania
The ocean will be on the right if you are heading south. Most people prefer to walk from Lisbon or Porto to Santiago the shorter way by heading north. It avoids having to walk past the poles.You agree with me Stephen or is it the right side ?
Hi Stefania just back from the Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago. Travelled by metro from Porto to Matosinhos then took the coastal route to Vila De Conde. Stayed in Vila De Conde and the next day got a taxi to Rates, joined the interior route, and proceeded to Barcelos. The reason for the taxi is the way marking is poor and the road is very busy from Vila De Conde to Rates, and I needed the yellow arrows.
The other stage with a problem seems to be between Tui and Redondela the area Porrino appears to be an industrial area and an alternative is suggested by the river. However it seems some problems exist with the confusion of the way markers or yellow markers on the alternative route. My solution we got a taxi from Tui to the alberque in Porrino, sharing the taxi with three others, cost 5€ each. Also between Rates and Barcelos at Pedra Furada call to Antonio’s café/restaurant, he will give an alternative route to avoid the busy road section before Barcelos
However overall this is a wonderful trip, which I would strongly recommend it.
Well .... you know me, Albertinho! I looked at a map and saw Vigo on the coast, and Porto almost directly east of Vigo.You agree with me Stephen or is it the right side ?
RIGHT?!?!?
Thanks for all the great info, Annie!
My other issues is that we will be walking the route in reverse. Our main camino is the Norte/Salvador/Primitivo/Fistera-Muxia. But we are in Spain for 3 months and fly out of Lisbon. Given the time to do so, we hope to walk from Santiago to Porto, before bussing to Lisbon for our flight home.
Can anyone comment on walking the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route in reverse (or, for the matter, the Central/Interior route in reverse)?
I expect we'll walk from Santiago to Redondela, and then make up our mind then as to whether to head towards Vigo or Tui from there.
Thank you so much Annie,
I was thinking of late most of September 2015 and starting out in Porto as you did in May. It looks like 12 days of walking to Santiago and I am not speedy so maybe 14 if I breakup 2 long days into 4. I thought about doing the Finisterra/Muxia route with that. However, what do you think the Lisbon to Porto portion will take? If I start in Lisbon and end in Santiago (not going on to Finisterra, etc.) it looks like I could do that in about 3.5 - 4 weeks. Is that reasonable? Which did you prefer May or September?
Stefania
Sounds great Annie. Thaks for all your information.According to Brierley it is 620 km between Lisbon and SDC according to Brierley 23 etapas.
Porto - SDC doable in 10-12 walking days.
I will be walking from Lisbon (the Cathedral in Lisbon) to Porto on the Central Route with J. Brierley and then The Coastal / Senda Litoral again to SDC next May and allow at least 24 walking days.
May or September?
Both are low season and both were great. I was very lucky with the beautiful weather both times.
Buen camino
@Stefania13/14
I have walked the coastal twice this year so if you have any questions, please let me know.
Buen camino
Annie, in which months did you walk the coastal route and how busy was it, compared to the inland route (if you know)?
Thnx
In May 2014 we were in the area between Viana do Castelo and A Guarda for about ten days, camping in Vila Praia de Āncora close by Caminha and only met a couple of pilgrims so if you like "de gezelligheid " and socializing, better walk the central route and stay overnight at casa da Fernanda in Vitorino dosPiães.Hi Annie,
Thanks for the reply.
I started on may 5th last year from the Cathedral in Porto. I walked inland on day one. Brrrrr. That wasn't nice at all. The rest was very nice
I enjoy it when there's lots of pilgrims around in the city/villages you stop. Thats why still undecided if the coastal route is the way to go this year in may.
I walked a combination of the Coastal, Senda Litoral, and interior routes in May/June, 2014. The Coastal and Senda Litoral were done using the maps by Mr. Freixo. My stops were Vila do Conde, Esposende, Viana do Castelo, Caminha, then to Valenca and continued on the main interior route to Santiago. I carried the Brierley guide, but found it to be of very little use.
The arrows in the Viana district were plentiful and easy to follow. It was much trickier in other places.
I met some pilgrims on the first day, but they all turned inland and went to Rates. The albergue host in Caminha said there was a big group of people a day ahead of me, but I walked alone from Vila do Conde to Valenca.
You have plenty of options with the Portuguese route north of Porto and each has something special to offer. I enjoyed mixing routes, but it certainly isn't for everyone.
@ourgirl
Caminha to Valenca is about 30 km.
Can be done in 2 days - there is an albergue in Vila Nova de Ceiveira.
Buen camino.
Glad to read that! In looking at the potential route of Guarda, Oia, Baiona and beyond, it appears you were walking down a small coastal road--correct?Not that many fountains on the coastal route (between A Guarda- Oia-Baiona-Vigo-Redondela) than on the Central route. But there are many villages with small stores, cafees, restaurants, hotels, service stations. No problem at all.
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