Caroline81
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino del Norte & Primitivo - May 2018 (1st)
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Interested in your questions. Looking forward to responses. ThanksDear all,
Last year in May I walked my first Camino and I enjoyed it very much.
I walked for 4,5 weeks: Camino del Norte & Primitivo, 815m from Irun to Santiago.
I heard the Portuguese is also nice. This year or next year I'd like to come back to do a 7-10 day trip, starting from Porto. I don't need to arrive in Santiago since I've been there. But I do like the people and albergues on the road.
I like exciting, hilly, unpaved paths through nature. I enjoyed the walk from Irun to Bilbao and from Oviedo to Lugo.
I'm a 38 year old woman with average fysical condition. I like hiking unless it's getting dangerous. Last year I walked 20-25km a day.
Questions:
- What Portuguese route would you recommend, unpaved and hilly? The interior or coastal route? Is it nice?
- What season would you recommend for the Portuguese?
- What shoes would you recommend? I walked on Meindl hiking shoes.
Thanks, Caroline
I should advise you to walk a part of the Caminho Português Central.Dear all,
Last year in May I walked my first Camino and I enjoyed it very much.
I walked for 4,5 weeks: Camino del Norte & Primitivo, 815m from Irun to Santiago.
I heard the Portuguese is also nice. This year or next year I'd like to come back to do a 7-10 day trip, starting from Porto. I don't need to arrive in Santiago since I've been there. But I do like the people and albergues on the road.
I like exciting, hilly, unpaved paths through nature. I enjoyed the walk from Irun to Bilbao and from Oviedo to Lugo.
I'm a 38 year old woman with average fysical condition. I like hiking unless it's getting dangerous. Last year I walked 20-25km a day.
Questions:
- What Portuguese route would you recommend, unpaved and hilly? The interior or coastal route? Is it nice?
- What season would you recommend for the Portuguese?
- What shoes would you recommend? I walked on Meindl hiking shoes.
Thanks, Caroline
I should advise you to walk a part of the Caminho Português Central.
If you like albergues start in the Mosteiro do Vairâo, an albergue in a former monastry.
It is nearby the Porto airport.
Then walk to the albergue of São Pedro de Rates. Nice one too
Your next day is the walk to the beautifull town of Barcelos where are two albergues.
Next day will be your highlite. The albergue Casa da Fernanda, the best on the entire caminho Português . Enjoy this place , Fernanda and her family and the real Portuguese hospitality.
As a last walk you could go from Fernanda to Ponte de Lima, the oldest town of Portugal, very beautifull. The albergue is over the bridge (in Português ponte ) over the Lima river.
From there you could take public transport to Viana do Castela where you will have a glimpse of the coast. Also there is an albergue and a very nice and comfortable "Parador" hotel on top the famous hill next to the beautiful church .
From there you could go back to Porto and stay one or two days to see all the spots of this wonderful city.
Unfortunately lot of the central route goes over ancient cobblestone Roman roads and is fairly hilly at times.
Springtime is my favorite season in Portugal and Galicia
Shoe advice is very personal .
Bom caminho
The "Roman roads" on the central camino are, to my mind, a wonderful part of feeling that one is "part of history" and I love going over the well worn tracks - even seeing the grooves cut by a million horse drawn carts and charriots in some of the road stones.- What Portuguese route would you recommend, unpaved and hilly? The interior or coastal route? Is it nice?
In addition to the flattering comments of @t2andreoAlbertinho is our resident Camino Portuguese "expert of experts." You can bank on his recommendations.
Among his suggestions, staying at Casa Fernanda, do contact her well in advance and book a bed. She has become an institution along this segment of the Camino portuguese. More and more folks want to stay there. Fernanda speaks very good English. You can call, e-mail, or possible connect via Facebook. But, I strongly advise NOT just showing up hoping for a bed. You might be disappointed.
His description of the route is accurate. But I thought the Roman roads not a problem and the grades not too onerous. There is one place, after Casa Fernanda that is a very steep but short climb up a rocky trail through the forest. However, the view from the top is well worth the effort.
I agree on springtime as the best season. I usually walk in late April and through May. The profusion of flowers is amazing. It can be chilly in the mornings and it DOES rain a fair bit at this time of the year. But the green landscape is an amazing result.
Hope this helps.
It is about 20 kms north of Porto. 14 kms from the airport.Albertinho...is the Mosteiro do Vairao a place to stay in Porto, or as a stop out of town? I looked it up on the map. Unless there is another place of the same name, it looks to be close to Villa de Conde (but more inland). Is this the correct albergue?
I am walking CP for the first time this June. I have been on CF twice and I love finding alburgues that offer that special pilgrim experience.
Thanks for posting your ideas.
Lynne
In addition to the flattering comments of @t2andreoFernanda does not use her email address and has no Facebook account.
The best is to phone her but she cannot allways answer the phone.
Usually give her a call in the late morning . In the off season just call two or three days ahead on your arrival.
If it's very urgent you can send me a conversion. Click on my avatar here and than on "start conversion". Very regulary I am in contact with the family.
Within 3 weeks I will staying with them for a couple of days before going to Santiago
Bom caminho
I tried to find a good map for you but so far did not succeed .anyway Vairão is indeed in the vila do Conde area more inland.Albertinho...is the Mosteiro do Vairao a place to stay in Porto, or as a stop out of town? I looked it up on the map. Unless there is another place of the same name, it looks to be close to Villa de Conde (but more inland). Is this the correct albergue?
I am walking CP for the first time this June. I have been on CF twice and I love finding alburgues that offer that special pilgrim experience.
Thanks for posting your ideas.
Lynne
We'll meet again do not know , where, do not know when Stephen.WOW! What a lovely video - which brought back so many memories of this year along the coast and previous years inland in the hills and forests. I still prefer the quiet of the old pathways, to the new busy boardwalk along the coast! Thanks, Albertinho. My love to Nel - so sorry she couldn't walk with you.
I tried to find a good map for you but so far did not succeed .anyway Vairão is indeed in the vila do Conde area more inland.
If you like to stay in albergues anyway go to Casa da Fernanda . I used to be hospitaleiro there a few times. Between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima on the Central route. There is a lot of published about casa da Fernanda on this forum . It is the place to be !
On this vid -the man on the vid is Jacinto, husband of Fernanda- you can see our walk out of Porto along the coast (Sendo Literal)
We went as far as Viana do Castelo and then switched over (by bus) to Casa da Fernanda You can see how the atmosphere is. From Fernanda we walked to Ponte de Lima amd came back at night .next day we took the bus to Braga, my favorite Portuguese town . Visit a musical friend and went to the world famous world heritage spot the sanctuaria do Bom Jesus do Monte.
From there we returned to Fernanda's. Next day we took the train to Viana de Costela and walked along the seaside to Caminha and along the banks of the river to Valença. From there we went bak to Porto by train
Beginning of April next we fly back to Porto, go to Vairão and the next day we'll go by bus or taxi to Trofa. By train we go from there to Tamel andcwalk from there to Fernanda , stay there 2 days. And take the train to Valença . From there we will walk to Santiago
For me my fifth time . For my friend his first.
Normally my wife joined me but due to a hip operation last year she isn't able to walk long distances yet.
Well , bom caminho.
@Caroline81, are you avoiding the Camino Francés? You say that you like people and albergues on the road. The Camino Francés still has some special magic, and I say that as someone who has now walked quite a few different routes. If you like the hilly sections, and have limited time, walk from St Jean to Pamplona, or from Astorga as far as you can. I don't take any notice of the nay-sayers who complain that it is too busy because I know from my own experience that it is not. Just linger over morning coffee and you can walk quite alone.
Having just come back from walking the Portuguese, I can say that I much prefer the Camino Frances.
Just a short answer now (i'll have to go now) + 351 914 589 521 is Fernanda's telephonenumberHi Albertinho,
I wanted to send you a conversation, but did not see that option... I am looking for the phone number for Casa da Fernanda. I will be passing through there in early June and I would like to call to see if I can book a bed (probably around June 8th). Can you send it to me?
Also, I would love to take a side trip to Braga, so any recommendations there would be much appreciated.
Thanks! Jill
Braga.I am walking the Portugues in June. But I have to agree with Kanga that the Camino Frances is not to be missed. I walked in May/June and in Sept/Oct; two of the busiest times. I was easily able to avoid the crowds and spent most days walking completely alone (which is what I love best). It has everything; the varied terrain, cultures, architecture, foods, etc. flat parts, hilly parts, wonderful little villages, Roman roads, forest paths, walking through vineyards and fields of flowers (in the spring). So many ancient churches and other monuments. It is a classic walk you should really try to do if you haven't yet!
Albertinho, I've clicked on your avatar and it says: "This member limits who may view their full profile." I wanted to confirm a reservation with Fernanda but not sure how to reach you. Thank you.In addition to the flattering comments of @t2andreoFernanda does not use her email address and has no Facebook account.
The best is to phone her but she cannot allways answer the phone.
Usually give her a call in the late morning . In the off season just call two or three days ahead on your arrival.
If it's very urgent you can send me a conversion. Click on my avatar here and than on "start conversion". Very regulary I am in contact with the family.
Within 3 weeks I will staying with them for a couple of days before going to Santiago
Bom caminho
Did not see your answer on the conversion ( yet) usually a conversion arrives by email but I presume you will be alone .Hi Albertinho,
I sent you a note... first I said June 11th, but I will be there on June 10th. Let me know if they can reserve a bed for me or if I should call them. Thanks!!
All Alberthino says is true BUT if you prefer un paved paths this just might not be the camino for you. There is a lot of road walking (which at times in Portugal can be quite an adventure) and those glorious setts/ cobbles.
Dare I ask if you have considered perhaps the Baztan and La Voie de la Nive or San Salvador? I have an inkling they might be more to your liking.
All Alberthino says is true BUT if you prefer un paved paths this just might not be the camino for you. There is a lot of road walking (which at times in Portugal can be quite an adventure) and those glorious setts/ cobbles.
Dare I ask if you have considered perhaps the Baztan and La Voie de la Nive or San Salvador? I have an inkling they might be more to your liking.
Braga was the capital of Galicia for almost 200 years in centuries 5th and 6th.Braga.
When you are at Fernanda's ,walk back to Balugães.about 3 kms
On your walk when you arrive at t he main road instead of crossing ,turn left and walk to the trafficlights at the crossing of the two main roads . The busstop to Braga is at the left side of the road you cross , almost at the corner so at the traffic light cross the road and there is your stop. ask Fernanda or Jacinto what are the times of the bus.
Once in Braga the bus stops at the bus station. It is about 5 to 7 minutes to the towncenter. Go to the touristcenter and ask where the bus is to the sanctuary Bom Jesus do Monte. The point you out. Ask for a nice stamp on your credential
The bus takes a out 10 minutes to the sanctuary
Once back walk into the center to the cathedral and ask for another stamp
Walk around in the center, have a coffee at A Brasileira with a pastel de nata.
I usually visit some musical friends there. Braga is the center of the world for a typical Portuguese,Brasilean, Cape Verdian instrument, the cavaco or cavaquinho
An stringed instrument as big as an ukulele .in Portugal they use it in Portuguese folkmusic but in Brasil it is a percussion instrument in the typical choro music (what I play)
There are 5 manufacturers of cavacos in Braga all related but they are no fiends of each other
When you walk out of the main entrance of the cathedral ahead is a straight street
20 meters at the left is the musicshop Som da Sé ( sound of the cathedral) with nice handcrafted Portuguese musical instruments. Give Luis Múxima -see picture- ,the owner, my regards and ask him to play a nice song. It makes your day
Enjoy your day in Braga
Bom caminho
Did not see your answer on the conversion ( yet) usually a conversion arrives by email but I presume you will be alone .
I'll send a message to Fernanda and let you know asap.
Bom caminho
Jacinto confirmed your reserved bed ,arrival June 10thHi Albertinho,
I sent you a note... first I said June 11th, but I will be there on June 10th. Let me know if they can reserve a bed for me or if I should call them. Thanks!!
Albertinoh, greetings! I turn to you wise sage on all things "Portuguese."I should advise you to walk a part of the Caminho Português Central.
If you like albergues start in the Mosteiro do Vairâo, an albergue in a former monastry.
It is nearby the Porto airport.
Then walk to the albergue of São Pedro de Rates. Nice one too
Your next day is the walk to the beautifull town of Barcelos where are two albergues.
Next day will be your highlite. The albergue Casa da Fernanda, the best on the entire caminho Português . Enjoy this place , Fernanda and her family and the real Portuguese hospitality.
As a last walk you could go from Fernanda to Ponte de Lima, the oldest town of Portugal, very beautifull. The albergue is over the bridge (in Português ponte ) over the Lima river.
From there you could take public transport to Viana do Castelo where you will have a glimpse of the coast. Also there is an albergue and a very nice and comfortable "Parador" hotel on top the famous hill next to the beautiful church .
From there you could go back to Porto and stay one or two days to see all the spots of this wonderful city.
Unfortunately lot of the central route goes over ancient cobblestone Roman roads and is fairly hilly at times.
Springtime is my favorite season in Portugal and Galicia
Shoe advice is very personal .
Bom caminho
The ferry from Caminho just is there to set you over to A Guarda in Spain. It is a 10 minutes lasting trip.Albertinoh, greetings! I turn to you wise sage on all things "Portuguese."
A fellow trekker shared this week that if one decides to walk from Porto to Santiago via the coastal route...takes a ferry from Caminha to A Pasaxe across the river (at least that looks like the course in Brierley's book - page 220...Segment 18a, 2018), then that (ferry boat ride) disqualifies one from receiving a Compostela? Is this indeed the case? Caminha to Santiago, on my estimation, is approx. 100 miles. I thought the Compostela was based on the last 100km.
In terms of the certificate of distance, will this nullify all the miles from Lisbon to Caminha should I decide to board that ferry?
Many thanks !
Hi Albertinho,
I sent you a note... first I said June 11th, but I will be there on June 10th. Let me know if they can reserve a bed for me or if I should call them. Thanks!!
I do not know what the stamps at the Oriente station say. Never did that.You are wonderful for responding so promptly. I thank you sincerely for allaying my
concerns about the Compostela/boat ride. I am like you...love the stamps. They create the "memory archive" of the place I had a bite to eat or a place where my body, soul and head rested for the night. For all that you bring and share on Ivar's Forum...many thanks from me and countless others. You are a wealth of knowledge. I hope I can get a stamp from Customs so I have something that says "Lisboa" before exiting the airport to head directly to the Camino. Thoughts? Will that be possible? Would a stamp in Oriente say Oriente or Lisbon?
My best Albertinho!
Sally Leland
Freeport, Maine USA
I do not know what the stamps at the Oriente station say. Never did that.
Most of the time we ask stamps at churches , albergues, bars, restaurants, civil centers etc.
One of my best is the two coloured one at the albergue in São Pedro de Rates and the special one at the castle ruin of Barcelos. You must be lucky to meet the guy who hides the stamp somewhere but if you see staff, ask for a stamp
I am not shure they stamp your credential at the customs . If you are from outside the Schengen area maybe they do it ,possibly in your normal passport.
I allways loved to get stamps in my passport.
Many thanks again Albertinho, and a "shout out" is due to Surya8 who so kindly answered my queries in a private conversation. This forum has been invaluable. Tomorrow, Lisbon bound! Obrigado to you all and Ivar who make this a safe and educational place to post and learn.I do not know what the stamps at the Oriente station say. Never did that.
Most of the time we ask stamps at churches , albergues, bars, restaurants, civil centers etc.
One of my best is the two coloured one at the albergue in São Pedro de Rates and the special one at the castle ruin of Barcelos. You must be lucky to meet the guy who hides the stamp somewhere but if you see staff, ask for a stamp
I am not shure they stamp your credential at the customs . If you are from outside the Schengen area maybe they do it ,possibly in your normal passport.
I allways loved to get stamps in my passport.
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