- Time of past OR future Camino
- Too many and too often!
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I think that ship sailed long ago. Personally I'm not much concerned about the 'authenticity' of a particular route. My own understanding of pilgrimage is focussed much more on the destination than the route. So for me any route which leads a pilgrim to the tomb of the Apostle is a valid Camino. That is why I object so strongly to the cathedral's decision to give the Compostela only to those who walk one of their approved routes. I think that shifts the focus to the wrong place., it might go as far as changing the idea of what pilgrimage is (and maybe that's inevitable anyway, and maybe it's already happening on the traditional routes regardless).
Having walked the Rota Vicentina, I agree that it is a lovely and stunning walking holiday, but also agree it totally lacked the feel of a pilgrimage Camino. I was not disappointed though as I had no expectations that it should. Afterward I then took a bus to Porto, choosing the Central route to hopefully have a similar feel to the Frances route.On my own scale that I'm just making up now, if the Camino Francés is the prototypical (modern) pilgrimage route, and the Rota Vicentina in southern Portugal is a walking holiday, then I'd put the Portuguese Coastal closer to the latter than the former. My perception is that it only just feels like a camino, if at all, though that does change once it rejoins the central.
The Amigos president talks of the danger of numbers increasing faster than capacity: "Now, "as the story changed ", the fear that Lores has is that the "Portuguese Way will die of success." To avoid this, "we must continue to grow in a sustainable way," he says." (Google Translate)Same number of pilgrims like on CF? Where are the albuerges with 100-200 beds, then, like in Roncesvalles or Pamplona?
Same number of pilgrims like on CF? Where are the albuerges with 100-200 beds, then, like in Roncesvalles or Pamplona?
I've asked a friend of mine exactly that question, she's on the CP at the moment, leading a small group. I know she predominantly uses Albergues (unless her clients desire otherwise).Maybe on the CP people stay more often in private accomodation instead of albergues. I do not know for a fact, but is an impression I have. See also this quote from the article that the CP attracts many more high-net-worth pilgrims come with tourist packages that organize everything for them
I enjoyed reading your observations on the two Portuguese routes that mostly follow the sea; the Senda Litoral and Coastal route, Elle, and look forward to your report when you get back home!Having just walked the Coastal and the Senda Litoral six months ago, I can honestly say that the numbers of pilgrims on these routes were astounding! The albergue in Vigo has over 90 beds, and both nights we were there on the separate routes, it was full! It is definitely the largest albergue on this Camino.
Because the routes are on the seaside, already tourist destinations, I would agree that many pilgrims are staying in non-albergue accommodations. The seaside itself would attract a higher-end tourist-type pilgrim. We tended to avoid the albergues because of the sheer numbers of pilgrims we saw. We were not interested in a bed race, and we could afford to stay elsewhere. Almost everyone is attracted to the sea and pilgrims are no exception. Walking a pilgrimage by the sea, seems like an archetypal experience to me!
I was also astounded at how many pilgrims I met who said the Coastal and/or Senda Litoral was their first Camino! In my mind, this has shifted significantly over the years along with the numbers. The Camino Francés may be losing its luster as the "real" Camino. And yes, Porto is much, much easier to get to than SJPP.
I did feel that the Coastal Route, especially when it didn't follow the sea, felt more like a Camino, with hills, crosses and Roman roads, but yet, the seaside Sendal Litoral is also Camino-like in that you can find lots of pilgrim comraderie. It's easier, flat and on lovely boardwalks that are easy on the lower extremeties! What's not to like?
Regardless of my thoughts, what will be, will be, and hopefully as this pilgrimage grows, so will the orderliness and oversight by the powers that be! Incidently, there are also many more pilgrims on the Lisbon to Porto section. I will tackle that section in a week and report back on that one!!
We just came back from our house just uphill from the Lisbon>Porto section, in north-of-the-tracks Barquinha just south of Tomar. We were often working down in the yard in the morning when peregrinos were walking through. Otherwise, we can see the walkers from our home's back windows. So we see many of them!Incidently, there are also many more pilgrims on the Lisbon to Porto section. I will tackle that section in a week and report back on that one!!
So good to hear!! Thank you so much for this info. I am going to contact you privately.Our concelho (municipality) formally marked the Santiago route about 3 or 4 years ago. In the last year, they also have formally marked the Fátima route, which in our area, goes east>west through Entroncamento, rather than north>south to Tomar, as the Santiago route does.
Are you doing this section again ? Was it about 7 years ago you walked from Lisbon?Incidently, there are also many more pilgrims on the Lisbon to Porto section. I will tackle that section in a week and report back on that one!!
I have redone sections since 2017, but this time I am doing the entire section from Alverca to Porto.. I did the first day out of Lisbon on the new board walk last year.Are you doing this section again ? Was it about 7 years ago you walked from Lisbon?
Thank you!!I enjoyed your Camino Portuguese blog very much especially the days from Lisbon.
Walking the central route right now and it is FAR less crowded than the CF was this same time last year. Have yet to see any signs that say hostels and albergues are full… We have seen many pilgrims walk into all types of accommodations with no problem getting a bed/room.Same number of pilgrims like on CF? Where are the albuerges with 100-200 beds, then, like in Roncesvalles or Pamplona?
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