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I'm planning on doing this route, probably arriving in that area in late May sometime (depends on how it goes starting at Somport and joining the rat race on the main road -- I might give up and head up to Oviedo to start the Primitivo if things are too crazy for my tastes on the main drag or just head to Ponferrada to start the Invierno earlier than planned). How far ahead did you book? What is your sense of the lodging situation on the Invierno?Apr 30 Ponferrada to Borrenes. A little less than 13 miles today. We checked out of Hotel Temple around 7:30. This hotel was a bit of a walk from the city center so we had to backtrack out of the city. The hotel breakfast didn’t start until 8:00 so we left hoping to find something open on our way out of Ponferrada. Across the street from the Castle, bar Liebana was open. Beautiful place! Once we were out of the city it was a beautiful walk on our day 1 on the Invierno. There was a bike race going on in the area so we shared the way with many bikers, but no pilgrims. We crossed the river Oza on a small narrow stone bridge and entered the Plaza El Logaledo in Torel de Merayo and stopped at La Cantina del Sr Lobo. Afterward we were road walking on small secondary roads. Through Villalibre we were on the left side of the road where there were 6 or 7 aggressive dogs all secured behind strong fences. We passed bar Ruta 68 which was open. We wanted to go directly to Borrenes, so when we went through Santalla del Bierzo and arrived at the Hermita Virgen del Carmen we continued to the right, up a muddy trail, crossed the N-536 then walked up the slate covered trail which took us to the crossroads where we followed the road to Borrenes, 1.5 km from there. This was the hardest bit for me. We had reservations at Hotel Rural Cornatel Medulas where we met Marisol who was every bit the gracious hostess we had read about. Check in wasn’t until 4 so we relaxed in the patio of the restaurant/bar had some lunch and wine. 3 pilgrims came in for lunch. A couple of more French pilgrims arrived by car looking for accommodation but she had to turn them away for she was full. Those 5 were the only pilgrims we saw today.
That’s about 5 more than any day I’ve had on my three times on the Invierno. Things are changing!Those 5 were the only pilgrims we saw today.
Signs of things to come as this route gets more popular? I hope not.she was full.
I saw 5 that day in 2019 too, but to be fair they were a family group from Madrid, zooming through Borrenes to Las Medulas.Those 5 were the only pilgrims we saw today.
Well after just one day it seems a lot less busy than the CF! We’re walking a total of 14 days on the Invierno, trying to keep a days walking to around 20 km. We booked ahead in most places.I'm planning on doing this route, probably arriving in that area in late May sometime (depends on how it goes starting at Somport and joining the rat race on the main road -- I might give up and head up to Oviedo to start the Primitivo if things are too crazy for my tastes on the main drag or just head to Ponferrada to start the Invierno earlier than planned). How far ahead did you book? What is your sense of the lodging situation on the Invierno?
Buen camino! I think 20k is a good pace, not too exhausting and yet you make progress. Are you able to book a day or two ahead, or do you need to book further ahead?We’ll after just one day it seems a lot less busy than the CF! We’re walking a total of 14 days on the Invierno, trying to keep a days walking to around 20 km. We booked ahead in most places.
I don’t think we needed to book the entire 14 days but we chose to.Buen camino! I think 20k is a good pace, not too exhausting and yet you make progress. Are you able to book a day or two ahead, or do you need to book further ahead?
Uh-oh.there were half a dozen backpacks/suitcases lined up at the CR waiting for their owners to arrive.
Yes, I think it is a group. When we were heading out for lunch 4 men were being dropped off.Uh-oh.
Change is coming to the Invierno, for sure.
I wonder if it's a group.
Unfortunately we missed him.Hi, @palmah.
Not sure what your plan is tomorrow, but if you have time when you get to Montefurado, look for Casimiro. He has put a lot of joy into many pilgrims’ hearts. It would be great to hear an update. His house is before you enter the village, on the left. You can see a picture of him and his house here. I am hoping he is well and enjoying his 97th year, or is it 98th?
We saw 5 pilgrims in total over the days before reaching A Laxe, then there were about a dozen of us in the municipal albergue there.That’s about 5 more than any day I’ve had on my three times on the Invierno. Things are changing!
We arrived at Quiroga, our destination pretty early so we went to the Aroza restaurant that got pretty good reviews. They didn’t open for lunch until 1:00
lHi, @crhutch and @palmah, I am wondering where you stayed last night. Since you say you arrived early in Quiroga, I’m assuming you did not walk from A Rua. Did you by chance stay in Soldón in the apartments? If so, how were they?
So glad that your bodies are cooperating and that you are enjoying the camino.
No we stayed in A Rua at the Casa Rural Pacio do Sil. Our bodies are barely cooperating but we are slugging through it as best we can. When we were leaving in the morning we were offered a ride to Soldón which gladly accepted.lHi, @crhutch and @palmah, I am wondering where you stayed last night. Since you say you arrived early in Quiroga, I’m assuming you did not walk from A Rua. Did you by chance stay in Soldón in the apartments? If so, how were they?
So glad that your bodies are cooperating and that you are enjoying the camino.
There are 3 Peregrinas we met tonight at Casa Pacita. They stayed at the apartments in Soldon and highly recommend them. Very clean, access to a well stocked kitchen, and hot showers.lHi, @crhutch and @palmah, I am wondering where you stayed last night. Since you say you arrived early in Quiroga, I’m assuming you did not walk from A Rua. Did you by chance stay in Soldón in the apartments? If so, how were they?
So glad that your bodies are cooperating and that you are enjoying the camino.
I think this is a good alternative for people who want shorter stages. When we were still crowd-sourcing the forum Invierno guide (now safely housed in the WisePilgrim app), I remember that the owners told us they would actually do grocery shopping for any peregrinos staying there if they got the requests with some reasonable lead time.There are 3 Peregrinas we met tonight at Casa Pacita. They stayed at the apartments in Soldon and highly recommend them. Very clean, access to a well stocked kitchen, and hot showers.
Many of us remember her as a very energetic, caring person — who seemed to do most of the work. It sounds like the pensión has given them some comfort, too, as they give comfort to pilgrims and carry on their wife/mother´s tradition.Jose lost his wife last year and it is apparent it’s devastated him. Nevertheless he and his son go all out to make sure of the pilgrims’ comfort
The owner Manuelo is a wonderful host. You’ll enjoy it here.Oh good! I will be staying there in a few days (also after Diomondi). Hope you are having a good evening!
We encountered more dogs on this Camino than any other we've walked. We felt scared a few times, but thankfully were never bitten.10 May continued. The first 7 or 8 km we walked today were beautiful! Palma had her first scary encounter with a couple of dogs in the hamlet of Penerbosa which is the first one after the forest walk. A couple of unleashed dogs (one was a German shepherd). We quickly crossed the dirt path, did not run but walked quickly away and Palma could feel that dog’s breath on her ankles. Next encounter was near the monument built by one of the farmers. Another German shepherd spotted us and he came moseying towards us so we just stood still. He walked around us and sniffed us and then he headed down the Camino in the same direction we were going. Then one of those long haired German shepherds appeared along with a beagle type dog. The two larger dogs seemed to be sizing each other up. We really had the feeling the one dog was leading us safely down the Camino. Running interference if you will. There wasn’t any trouble - the hairy dog sniffed us but seemed more concerned about the other dog so we just kept on walking. Cullen tracked our distance walked to be about 23 km with nowhere to stop or sit. We packed a bocadillo and lots of water so we were fine food wise but it was a long 6 hour walk to Lalin. We actually walked to a very nice restaurant (Cabanas highly recommended) and had a great meal and then took a taxi to our hotel (hotel Alda) which is on the outskirts of town. We are pooped!
There are 3 Peregrinas we met tonight at Casa Pacita. They stayed at the apartments in Soldon and highly recommend them. Very clean, access to a well stocked kitchen, and hot showers.
Thanks Rob. We loved this Camino, but it was a toughie! Didn't stay in Soldon, but it looks great. We stopped at the little donativo stall and played with a little kitten whilst we rested and ate some fruit.Looks like I was a week behind you
I can report on the apartments at Soldón.
They are really good. A line of 5 or 6 above the river.
And beneath the highway bridge, but you don't hear the highway.......
I'm not sure about the well stocked kitchen though.
Food is provided by the owner (at a cost of course) if pre ordered a couple of days in advance.
I just ordered some bread and eggs and carried a few other items as a back up.
He also provided tea, coffee, milk, olive oil etc.
I made a video tour of the apartment here.
The video shows my day from A Rua de Valdeorras to Soldon.
The tour of the apartment and surrounds starts at: 12:21
I’m in Silledo now, looking at arriving in Santiago on the 24th. Started in Somport. Yes, the Invierno has been tough!Thanks Rob. We loved this Camino, but it was a toughie! Didn't stay in Soldon, but it looks great. We stopped at the little donativo stall and played with a little kitten whilst we rested and ate some fruit.
9 May Hotel Vilaseca to Rodiero. So the 17 km on CF from Carrion to the first bar/cafe was an abnormally long distance to go without a stop. We matched it today going from the Hotel Vilaseca to the Bar Recanto and it seems quite normal on this Camino. We knew it, but it is hard. We arrived at the Bar and it took us about 5 hours to get here. When we left the bar I believe we could have turned left onto the road and arrived at the same place as we did by following the marker directing us down a very rocky cow path. We had breakfast at the hotel and though it wasn’t raining when we left it started shortly after. Not a heavy rain but enough to put our Altus ponchos on. We decided to do the alternative route since we wouldn’t be able to see anti if we walked up the mountain. We got to Penasillas- no problem. The alternative way is not marked very well to and through Mouricios. We asked one lady about the route and she suggested we not do it. She said it was terrible around Ferreiros. But we went ahead to Ferreiros. Came to a road and if we crossed and went straight we would have been in Mundin but we turned left onto the road toward Lalin. Our google maps app was working well at that point and Cullen’s opinion was if we didn’t have google maps ,”we would have been screwed”. Lots of dogs today, but mostly happy. Had a steep climb to get to Carpentieras.
The Dutch cofraternity site has all the maps you need. @Thomas1962 ... dankye wel!!!Looking for a source of good / reliable tracks to download.
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