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The curfew ... On a Saturday. I'm not arriving in Portugal until 20:15pm. Am I allowed to transit to my accommodation?Good luck! You might need it. Some relevant information regarding the current situation:
- There is a curfew throughout most of Portugal, including Lisbon, from 11pm-5am on weekdays and 1pm-5am on Saturdays and Sundays. This 1pm curfew will also apply next Tuesday (8 Dec), a public holiday.
- On Saturday, measures for the next several weeks will be announced, with restrictions expected to be in place until at least 7 January.
- The Portuguese government website for its coronavirus response, including current restrictions in English, is Estamos On.
- Municipal albergues in Portugal are closed, so early on in your camino this will include Alpriate, Azambuja and Santarém.
- Things have changed since I walked the CP in Sep-Oct (i.e. more restrictions now), but here is my article outlining How a Pandemic Camino is Different.
- If you're interested in general about the Lisbon-Porto section of this camino (highlights and whether it's worth it), it's the subject of Episode 1.3 of our Spirit of the Camino podcast.
I believe so. Returning home is one of the exceptions to the curfew, so that's what you would be doing, in a sense.The curfew ... On a Saturday. I'm not arriving in Portugal until 20:15pm. Am I allowed to transit to my accommodation?
Home for me is the Camino... LOLI believe so. Returning home is one of the exceptions to the curfew, so that's what you would be doing, in a sense.
Alpriate is the first etape. I get a little worried when you said the Municipal Albergues are closed. I see there is a hostel in Vila Franca but is that too far for one etape?Good luck! You might need it. Some relevant information regarding the current situation:
- There is a curfew throughout most of Portugal, including Lisbon, from 11pm-5am on weekdays and 1pm-5am on Saturdays and Sundays. This 1pm curfew will also apply next Tuesday (8 Dec), a public holiday.
- On Saturday, measures for the next several weeks will be announced, with restrictions expected to be in place until at least 7 January.
- The Portuguese government website for its coronavirus response, including current restrictions in English, is Estamos On.
- Municipal albergues in Portugal are closed, so early on in your camino this will include Alpriate, Azambuja and Santarém.
- Things have changed since I walked the CP from Lisbon in Sep-Oct (i.e. more restrictions now), but here is my article outlining How a Pandemic Camino is Different.
- If you're interested in general about the Lisbon-Porto section of this camino (highlights and whether it's worth it), it's the subject of Episode 1.3 of our Spirit of the Camino podcast.
Hi natefaith,Hi @futurefjp, in fact many albergues are closed now as so few pilgrims are on the trails. Pilgrims in October reported that sometimes it even was hard to find food in the small towns (on the Camino Francés) they passed through - bars and restaurants would be closed so they had to take taxis to larger towns further down the road and then taxi back. It was hard to count on anything (bars and albergues) being open, and in October and November pilgrims who walked with a tent found it easier to continue on.
Are you hoping to make it to Santiago this time or will you stick to Portugal? As an FYI, this holiday weekend the border between Portugal and Spain is closed. This may signal that it will be closed again for the Christmas holiday.
And in Spain, the Spanish government is restricting movement between autonomous regions between Dec 23 and Jan 6 (without saying anything about closing borders between Spain and neighboring countries):
Spanish government asks citizens to stay home for Christmas
New plan allows inter-regional travel between December 23 and January 6 only to see family and close friends, but rules will be hard to enforce and some regions do not feel bound by themenglish.elpais.com
"Despite the appeal to avoid travel, the plan will allow movement across regional lines between December 23 and January 6, as long as these trips are made to visit relatives or close friends. Illa said that this definition includes not only direct family members but also people with whom “strong bonds of affection” exist. Outside of these exceptions, borders are to remain sealed according to the plan."
However, it seems closing borders between the autonomous regions within Spain may be hard to enforce. The restrictions are aimed at having people avoid gathering and avoiding mixing together, but I'm not sure what it will mean for the Camino if they really do seal the borders.
I say all this not to scare you offbut to give you the reality of the Camino right now. National and local restrictions, regional border closings, and business openings have been constantly changing for a few months now, which has made undertaking the Camino difficult for some of the pilgrims we met this fall. I guess flexibility is the key! And being able to pivot and adjust in case a town doesn't have what you need.
Take care and hope it goes well for you!
VFX is 40+km from Lisbon. An option between Alpriate and VFX is Alverca do Ribatejo. See my live thread for accommodation info from September.Alpriate is the first etape. I get a little worried when you said the Municipal Albergues are closed. I see there is a hostel in Vila Franca but is that too far for one etape?
Hi natefaith,
I wasn't considering crossing into Spain. I don't think I have the time or funds to go the whole way, but Porto was my original hope... I've been looking at Youth Hostel locations along the way too...
In January I walked from Cascais to Santa Cruz along the coast perhaps I might be best continuing along the coast as there are more Hostels, Backpackers and Campsites...Peniche looks interesting tooGood thought about youth hostels! Keep us posted on what you find and on your experience (when you get the chance).
I've never tried to ask Monasteries in Portugal or Spain, but have always asked in Marie, Père and Moine in France.VFX is 40+km from Lisbon. An option between Alpriate and VFX is Alverca do Ribatejo. See my live thread for accommodation info from September.
I hope that you realise that it is illegal to walk between municipalities for the next two weekends from Friday midnight to Tuesday morning at 6.00a.m. Bom caminhoMorning Forum,
I'm heading to Lisbon on Saturday and intend to walk along the Caminho from there, depending on the situation with Hostels, Albergues, etc. I've two nights booked in central Lisbon.
It's been such a terrible year ... I'm finding it impossible to recall the last truly "Camino" experience (Fulda to Metz) I had.
A bit of Serendipity occurred yesterday though ... Graham Greene Monsignor Quixote from a "reopened" second hand bookstore which reminded me of Alicante to Salamanca last November/December and reopened my positive feelings.
I've been so dispirited and I know I'm not alone...
A policeman I just spoke to said I'm OK to walk. Also I'm technically in "transit" the entire time until I reach Santiago? Just because the modern world takes transit to mean train, bus or car forgets we were born with thighs, legs and plates of meat(feet)... But we shall see.I hope that you realise that it is illegal to walk between municipalities for the next two weekends from Friday midnight to Tuesday morning at 6.00a.m. Bom caminho
The weather never looks good... What am I to do with all of these negative vibes!Make sure you check the weather because it doesn’t look good on the coast in the coming days. I’m getting notifications about potential disruptions in Lisbon due to a ‘coastal event’ - looks like big waves and rain. Stay safe and bom caminho.
I have one question ... Is there somewhere I can get a credential in Lisbon as my last one is on its final page...Hi there @futurefjp, if you chance upon other pilgrims along the way, consider renting an apartment together each day eg Air b&B or asking the locals.This worked well in Spain for a friend of mine this summer. He said it was super-inexpensive.
Buen Camino!
The cathedral.I have one question ... Is there somewhere I can get a credential in Lisbon as my last one is on its final page...
Sé cathedral?The cathedral.
... I carry a stash of copied blank credential pages in my pack plus celotape to stick them on to the last page of credential just in case the journey lasts longer than the number of blank squares for stamps or I haven't found an extra credential mid journey. I print off pages from the scan attached below....I have one question ... Is there somewhere I can get a credential in Lisbon as my last one is on its final page...
Yes. Sé is short for the Portuguese sede, meaning headquarters (i.e. the seat of the bishop), so that’s why a cathedral in Portugal is called a Sé. There’s a shop on the left as you go in that sells credentials.Sé cathedral?
I do this too, but feel hideous afterwards... Joke... I carry a stash of copied blank credential pages in my pack plus celotape to stick them on to the last page of credential just in case the journey lasts longer than the number of blank squares for stamps or I haven't found an extra credential mid journey. I print off pages from the scan attached below....
Cheers
I got my credentialsYes. Sé is short for the Portuguese sede, meaning headquarters (i.e. the seat of the bishop), so that’s why a cathedral in Portugal is called a Sé. There’s a shop on the left as you go in that sells credentials.
Thank you for your kind support of the country that you are visiting. Thank you for trying to bend the rules. Thank you for your support to the local population. It is people like you that are really welcome.A policeman I just spoke to said I'm OK to walk. Also I'm technically in "transit" the entire time until I reach Santiago? Just because the modern world takes transit to mean train, bus or car forgets we were born with thighs, legs and plates of meat(feet)... But we shall see.
If you read the rules you'd realise Non-residents are exempt - '- movements of non-resident citizens to places of proven stay.'Thank you for your kind support of the country that you are visiting. Thank you for trying to bend the rules. Thank you for your support to the local population. It is people like you that are really welcome.
The word “Sé” refers to the governing center, or “seat,” of the district where the church is located. The Vatican is therefore located at the Holy See in Rome, or the “holy chair,” designating an ecclesiastical jurisdiction.Yes. Sé is short for the Portuguese sede, meaning headquarters (i.e. the seat of the bishop), so that’s why a cathedral in Portugal is called a Sé. There’s a shop on the left as you go in that sells credentials.
Terry,We pilgrims get a lot of slack from others.
Both locals and other pilgrims.
They give us discounts at their hotels.
Sometimes they do our laundry for free.
Pilgrims help others lug their stuff.
They (locals) put out water for us.
Other walkers-- kindly listen to our problems.
They share food - on the trail.
Locals might give a pilgrim a ride-- when they would never pick up a local hitchhiker.
They-- fellow pilgrims -encouge us --when we need support.
They become instant friends -
The Camino is more human - more connected - more soulful than anywhere you ever go in your life.
It is so much different to the "us and them" world we all live in.
Kindness is a quinessential part of the Camino experience.
It is like a another world - another reality.
I wish I was walking with you!
Have a great voyage!
I am mainly walking on the road when I'm in urban settingsThe trick to walking on the cobbled roads in Portugal -- is to walk at the extreem edge of the road.
Were the Cobbles are covered with sand and dirt - way less irregular pressure on the feet. Flatter there.
Go to the sides of the roads/ do not walk up the middle.
It is not a sin--- to take a taxi or a train to skip conjested urban areas -or to cut your 30 km route down - I called a taxi from a bar several times - when I was done (63 years old) to bring me to the next town--after 20 km when I had had enough. Did not cared to walk another 10km.
It is not supposed to be the Baatan Death March - SLOW is better.
I've taken buses or hitched, but not yet a taxi as that really is an absolute drain on valuable funds.The trick to walking on the cobbled roads in Portugal -- is to walk at the extreem edge of the road.
Were the Cobbles are covered with sand and dirt - way less irregular pressure on the feet. Flatter there.
Go to the sides of the roads/ do not walk up the middle.
It is not a sin--- to take a taxi or a train to skip conjested urban areas -or to cut your 30 km route down - I called a taxi from a bar several times - when I was done (63 years old) to bring me to the next town--after 20 km when I had had enough. Did not cared to walk another 10km.
It is not supposed to be the Baatan Death March - SLOW is better.
So what did you do, @futurefjp? Are you in Sintra? Looking forward to hearing more.Don't try to walk Caiscas to Sintra before Curfew. It's a tough slog anyhow up to the Serra de Sintra and I wouldn't recommend the entire distance without a definite repase.
I'm in Sintra and I am in a foul mood! The curfew today absolutely wiped my happiness as I struggled to reach here before 1pm(and failed), but I'm sure it's a blip?So what did you do, @futurefjp? Are you in Sintra? Looking forward to hearing more.
Are you planning to take the caminho do mar or what some would call the “real” coastal route (because of the fact that the Caminho do Mar is really not much along the coast at all — I think they call this one Trilhas do Mar, but I am not sure).
Stay safe, peregrino.
Probably out of my price range. But once in a while I do "upgrade". I'm not sure after only 2 days I should upgrade. I was seriously hoping for 14 whole days of walking so spending more than strictly necessary on accommodation restricts that dream...Those winter Caminos are tough - but you are tougher----
I did three in Febuary -
Caminos were deserted in the winter - very lonely.
Eventually=== you will conect to others and they will lift you up.
Call ahead to Booking.com - Take a taxi and skip a section if no accomdations.
Go to Gronze to find potential places.
Maybe a bit out of your price range - nice to stay at good hotel - once in a while
Vila Mafra
3-star hotel
R. Domingos Dias Machado 11C, 2640-534 Mafra, Portugal•+351 927 557 594
Website
Directions
I don’t know this from first hand knowledge but one document put out by the Casa de Misericordia in Mafra describes one of its missions as:Any help with a place to sleep on a tight budget in Mafra ... Another post mentioned the Casa de Misericordia offering a bed?
Wouldn't let me stay due to Covid.I don’t know this from first hand knowledge but one document put out by the Casa de Misericordia in Mafra describes one of its missions as:
Dar pousada aos peregrinos.
Just in case you need the phone number: +351 261 816 930
I've decided to have a break here as I've struggled, like a maniac, to find a bed for the night ... Since Lisbon.@futurefjp Good choice! Óbidos is a beautiful little town, and there's more to do there than you might think. Even on a rainy day, it's got several small museums and a huge number of bookstores for such a small place.
Be sure not to miss the bookstore inside the deconsecrated chapel to the left of the castle. It looks just like a typical church from the outside, but on the inside, it's full of books. You can find some more suggestions on sights and activities in Óbidos in this article from my travel blog.
I've struggled, like a maniac, to find a bed for the night
Beware that all the usual accommodation isn't possible. I would recommend having a couple of days in Òbidos at Hostel Argonauta, as it's directly on the path.Watching with interest! Thinking about doing Lisbon to Porto in Jan.
You know that futurefjp is not doing the standard Lisbon-Porto camino, right?Watching with interest! Thinking about doing Lisbon to Porto in Jan.
Here is my live thread from September if that helps.Ah no! I’d didn’t. Thank you very much for pointing out! I will check back through threads! Thanks again!
Yes I am on the Caminho do Mar not the usual one which goes north from Lisbon. This way is from Estoril. I did from Sè Cathedral to Mafra, before the absence of accommodation and the rain stopped me in my tracks.Ah no! I’d didn’t. Thank you very much for pointing out! I will check back through threads! Thanks again!
I'm having to build my own Camino as the Albergues are closed.I am heading there on January! How is the situation in Portugal?
€80 even without customers...Those winter Caminos are tough - but you are tougher----
I did three in Febuary -
Caminos were deserted in the winter - very lonely.
Eventually=== you will conect to others and they will lift you up.
Call ahead to Booking.com - Take a taxi and skip a section if no accomdations.
Go to Gronze to find potential places.
Maybe a bit out of your price range - nice to stay at good hotel - once in a while
Vila Mafra
3-star hotel
R. Domingos Dias Machado 11C, 2640-534 Mafra, Portugal•+351 927 557 594
Website
Directions
Ultreia, amigo! You have so many readers with you in spirit!Here we go northwards. The rain has passed, for now.
There is no sinThe trick to walking on the cobbled roads in Portugal -- is to walk at the extreem edge of the road.
Were the Cobbles are covered with sand and dirt - way less irregular pressure on the feet. Flatter there.
Go to the sides of the roads/ do not walk up the middle.
It is not a sin--- to take a taxi or a train to skip conjested urban areas -or to cut your 30 km route down - I called a taxi from a bar several times - when I was done (63 years old) to bring me to the next town--after 20 km when I had had enough. Did not cared to walk another 10km.
It is not supposed to be the Baatan Death March - SLOW is better.
On my 1st camino I considered it cheating to do anything but walk. On the next six caminos I asked myself .... "If, in medieval times, a pilgrim was offered a lift on the cart of a passing farmer, would he refuse it?" Of course not!There is no sin
It was exactly the opposite for me. On my first camino, I was happy to accept just about any and all offers of lifts (and, in fact, regularly sought them out). For my second camino I wanted to try it walking the whole way. But memories of that first camino will always protect me from being too judgemental.On my 1st camino I considered it cheating to do anything but walk. On the next six caminos I asked myself .... "If, in medieval times, a pilgrim was offered a lift on the cart of a passing farmer, would he refuse it?" Of course not!
My final camino will hopefully be the short Baix Maestrat over the mountains, where public transport will be impossible. But that isn't until 2022!!!
My first Camino was such a haphazard affair. I failed on so many levels, but I persevered and reached Cahors broken, yet excited - it was also the coldest snowiest wettest May ever in the Aubrac. There was an anticyclonic depression directly on me as I fought to St Chely, Aubrac and I got a lift from a baggage guy to Espalion then walked to Estaing Aveyron, but the depression followed me everywhere and I was soaked, lonely and forsaken ...It was exactly the opposite for me. On my first camino, I was happy to accept just about any and all offers of lifts (and, in fact, regularly sought them out). For my second camino I wanted to try it walking the whole way. But memories of that first camino will always protect me from being too judgemental.
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