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We're also pretty senior, and walked the whole of that stretch 2 years ago, then repeated Melide - Sarria in June, when doing the Primitivo. We always stayed in private rooms, and sought out places that were tranquil, and (where possible) rural. Here's the places that stood out a little:
Villivante - totally dead (but quiet!) town. Alb Santa Lucia -- nice private room in Albergue. Communal meal. (More choices in Hospital, a few miles down the camino).
Astorga -- La Peseta. Beautiful, relatively upscale hotel, but reasonable. Off main plaza, quiet. Good restaurant.
Rabenal -- NS del Pilar. Albergue with nice private rooms in separate converted private residence. Shared bath.
Trabadelo - Alb. La Crispeta had nice private rooms in separate bldg. overlooking river.
O'Cebreiro -- Casa Carolo. Pleasant inn.
Melide - A Lua do Camino. Just before you enter town. Set back from the road, so quiet. Nice rooms. Big garden area and pool.
Salceda - Alburgue Turistico. good rooms. Again, big central landscaped area. Very relaxing. Good meal.
Avoid O Pedrouzo -- dreary town with most accomodation right on busy road. Better option is A Rua, 1 k. before Pedrouzo. O Acrivo casa rurale. Tranquil, and right on camino. One option in Pedrouzo is Pension Casal de Calma, which we only saw from outside. Near the church and off the main road. Beautiful stone bldg. and nice-looking garden.
Villamaoir -- only 9 k from Santiago. Casa de Arancio. Garden setting. Almost a mini-apartment. Good meal.
Negreira -- La Mesquita. Big private room in albergue. Center of town.
Cee- Hotel Larry. Bland, modern bldg. but comfortable.
Lires - Casa Raul. Lovely old stone house with big garden. Warm older couple as hosts. Good rooms, shared bath. Bfast only. As Eiras albergue in center of Lires also has private rooms, and place for dinner, but is less charming.
Muxia -- Hotel a de lo lo. Most upscale place in town, but still only 60Euro double. Boutique hotel feel. Very comfortable.
Brierley and Wise Pilgrim apps. best for information on where to stay. Gronze lists everything, inc. e-mail addresses, but not much descriptive information. Calling (or direct e-mail) often works better than booking.com because some places not listed on booking.com, or booking.com shows them as sold out when they really aren't.
Happy to share. One thing I thought of later because there's not a lot of lodging between Leon and Astorga: In leaving Leon, scenery is pretty grim until you hit Virgen del Camino, but you can avoid the grim scenery and also shave down the subsequent long stages by taking a a local bus to El Virgen. (Check in tourist office for exact schedule). That would leave him with 15 k to Villar de Mazarife, 14 k to Hospital de Obrigo, and about 16 to Astorga, which sounds more in line with the stages he wants to walk.Stayed In a few mentioned , appreciated the rest .
Thanks for the input Andy.
Happy to share. One thing I thought of later because there's not a lot of lodging between Leon and Astorga: In leaving Leon, scenery is pretty grim until you hit Virgen del Camino, but you can avoid the grim scenery and also shave down the subsequent long stages by taking a a local bus to El Virgen. (Check in tourist office for exact schedule). That would leave him with 15 k to Villar de Mazarife, 14 k to Hospital de Obrigo, and about 16 to Astorga, which sounds more in line with the stages he wants to walk.
Hi Thornley -
I hope that all's going well with you in Melbourne and that you have your next camino in the planning.
I've been home for two weeks from my second camino - Burgos to Rabanal - and stayed in two hotels that I hope your relative would like. These are:
Hotel Conde Luna, Leon - 4 star rating. Well located, gorgeous building, spacious rooms with the crisp white bedlinen and towels that are such a treat. The hotel has a lovely bar called the American Bar which is intimate ... a lovely quiet bar to enjoy a nightcap - especially if it's Orujo, which is poured very generously! Fellow Forum member IngridF and I stayed there for a couple of nights back in June - for Ingrid it was her second stay there and I chose it on her recommendation. I will definitely stay there again. The staff are friendly and helpful - it provided everything I wanted and more for my rest days in Leon. If your relative books directly with the hotel they give a pilgrim discount. The email address of the hotel is reservas@hotelcondeluna.es . Their website is hotelcondeluna.es and there's a link to the Peregrinos Offer.
The other hotel I can recommend is at Hospital de Orbigo - on the far side of the famous bridge. It's Hotel Don Suero de Quinones - it has a fabulous position right at the side of the bridge. Ask for Room 11 - it has the prime position. I had one of the best meals of my camino at this hotel and the proprietor, Damaso Juan Gonzalez, could not have been kinder, gracious nor more helpful to me. The email address for the hotel is don.suero@hotmail.com. Get your relative to see if they do a pilgrim discount.
I booked both hotels through booking.com but you'll probably get a better deal if you go directly to both hotels.
Cheers from a rainy Sydney -
Jenny
I walked in stages over 20 months, staying in albergues until after Sarria when my daughter walked with me and I booked private rooms in advance. Here's a list of the towns/villages we stayed in, with prices for 2 people. Most places had single rooms, or charged less for one person.
Can thoroughly recommend the ones in Barbadelo, Lodoso (call from Portos and they come and pick you up - fabulous place like an old castle, and incredible rooms and food. Expensive (by Camino standards) but worth it for a treat.) Also Arzua, and the pension in O Pedrouzo was owned by the most delightful and charming gentleman, so don't discount staying there.
4km - BARBADELO – Albergue 108 to Santiago €29 twin room shared bathroom
18km - PORTOMARIN – Pension Portomino €45 twin room ensuite
20km - LODOSO (near Portos) – Casa Rural Roan y Casa Grande €63 twin room ensuite dinner €20 each
20km - MELIDE – Pension Pereiro - €40 twin room ensuite
14km - ARZUA – La Casona de Nene - €49 twin room shared bathroom
19km - O PEDROUZO – Pension Codesal €44 twin room ensuite
20km - SANTIAGO de COMPOSTELA – Hotel Costa Vella €97 twin room ensuite with balcony
Hospederia San Martin Pinario €23 single room ensuite inc breakfast
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