Pilgrim_95
Young Pilgrim
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Portugues - 2015
Norte - 2016, 2020
Frances - 2018
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Looking forward to reading of your camino.Hello fellow Pilgrims, due to the COVID-19 situation I and my partner Pippa had to cancel our Camino Primitivo pilgrimage we planned for the this April, we also had to cancel our June trip to Mexico... Moreover, we had to spend the last 12 weeks apart, as our university shut down and I moved back to the Czech Republic and Pippa stayed in the UK.
When Spain opened we decided we are gonna walk the Camino no matter what as it has a special meaning for us, we met for the first time on the Camino Frances two years ago.
I would like to map the journey to provide information for pilgrims that are still considering walking this summer.
Our plan is to meet up in Santander on the 16th of July (we fly from different countries and it was the best option), we will spend two days there and meet with one of our friends. On the 19th of July, we will start walking the Camino Norte. The first interesting crossroad happens in Oviedo, where we could continue on the Primitivo, continue via Norte or reach Leon via San Salvador. We have quite a free timeframe so this will be decided based on our experience/people we meet/recommendations we get.
So far, we have had no troubles finding flights and as we had some Ryan Air coupons we used those. We got some minimalistic equipment and an ultralight tent (1.4kg) for two people just in case we will have troubles finding accommodation, the rules will be too strict or we would have the chance to camp in an Albergue itself. Airbnb prices skyrocketed in Santander as the UK is about to introduce the air bridges so we got the first two nights in an apartment via Booking which was confirmed with no troubles.
I will be updating this thread daily on the Camino. I might also post something during the upcoming days if we face some major issue that might affect our journey and might be useful for the pilgrims
The bridge from Boo is a train bridge, and many pilgrims have in the past walked over it (I confess to having done it years ago when I was a much less responsible youngster in my 50s). If you stay in Boo, though, it is easy to get up in the morning, eat breakfast, and wait a few minutes for the train. The train stop is about two minutes from the albergue.@peregrina2000 Thanks a lot, I walked Norte from Aviles 4 years ago and some parts were quite urbanish... I actually did download the coordinates and the PDF from your thread this morning after reading about it in @Dave guide. We are most likely gonna take the Coastal variant from Santanderto Boo de Pielagos and then continue on the official route through Arce and Oruňa. I also read about a forbidden alternative across some ferry bridge from Boo to Mogro, yet it sounds kinda irresponsible to walk along trains .
That leads me to a broader comment about the Norte generally. There is a lot of asphalt walking on the Norte, and it can be hard on your feet. And it is frustrating to know you are so close to the ocean but the camino takes you on the road. Several of us did a fair amount of research a few years ago and came up with some alternative coastal stages, no more than a km or two from the road the camino goes on. They are all pretty spectacular. You would need a GPS or some device to get you from the Camino to the ocean path, because there is no marking to indicate how to join up. But there are directions and lots of suggestions in this thread.
Buen camino, Laurie
Great to read your posts as I’m hoping for the Norte in September. Any idea why the Albergue in Pielagos would be full?? Is it because they’re only allowing a small number to stay or lots of Spaniards are having summer holidays maybe..@Tantalu I will try to include as much relevant information as possible so members of the forum can get a sense of what Camino looks like during these turbulent times. You can also send me a message anytime and I will try to reply as good as I can. Based on some other discussions here, it seems the Camino is alive and pilgrims are walking. I think Ivar mentioned yesterday that around 200 pilgrims a day visit the Pilgrim's office in Santiago.
Just a quick update for the rest of the pilgrims following the thread. Our flight or accommodation in Santander was not cancelled... So we are going. I contacted several albergues via email about if they are currently open and I received mostly positive answers which is relieving.
In terms of our itinerary, I just planned the first few stages as the plans might change. We are currently decided to walk the Camino Norte, yet if there will be a lockdown we would have to alternate to Primitivo or San Salvador in Oviedo.
I just planned out a few days, so if you have any recommendations for accommodation or interesting places to see, don't hesitate and tell me
DAY 1 (18.7.) - Santander to Boo de Piélagos (30 km)
We plan to take the Coastal detour around Santander and finish around Boo area where we would camp as the Albergue de Piélagos has no space on that day.
DAY 2 (19.7.) - Boo via Morgo to Caborredondo (28 km)
We will take the train to Morgo, walk to Santillana del Mar (which should be around 20 km) and then we will continue Caborredondo where we plan to stay in Albergue de Peregrinos Izarra which is open.
DAY 3 (20.7.) - Caborredondo to San Vicente de la Barquera (27 km)
We would like to finish somewhere near San Vicente de Barquera and either sleep in one of those camps or maybe going for private accommodation. We will adjust based on weather and time. Recommendations for accommodation welcome
DAY 4 (21.7.) - San Vicente de la Barquera to Pendueles (28 km)
Albergue Aves de Paso is open, so we are heading there.
DAY 5 (22.7.) - San Vicente de la Barquera to Llanes / Poo (13-16 km)
It is my birthday, so we are planning to have a shorter day, having a nice meal, going to the beach and sleeping in a nice hotel.
After that, we will see how it all goes
Great to read your posts as I’m hoping for the Norte in September. Any idea why the Albergue in Pielagos would be full?? Is it because they’re only allowing a small number to stay or lots of Spaniards are having summer holidays maybe..
@peregrina2000 Thanks a lot, I walked Norte from Aviles 4 years ago and some parts were quite urbanish... I actually did download the coordinates and the PDF from your thread this morning after reading about it in @Dave guide. We are most likely gonna take the Coastal variant from Santanderto Boo de Pielagos and then continue on the official route through Arce and Oruňa. I also read about a forbidden alternative across some ferry bridge from Boo to Mogro, yet it sounds kinda irresponsible to walk along trains .
Day 3 - San Vicente - Pendueles
Another day behind, yesterday we camped near San Vicente and managed to start quite early on around 7:00.
We continued and had a lovely breakfast and a cheeky bottle of local Cider in Serdio.
View attachment 79133
Then we continued to Colombres and I tried the local river. Lovely fresh and clear water.
View attachment 79134
Our goal was to reach Pendueles where we booked a bed in the Albergue Aves de Paso.
It is becoming a race as the camino is becoming more crowded and some albergues are still not opened. Also the prices of hostels are quite high due to the summer season and there is not much affordable places to stay.
We called all albergues on our tomorrow's journey and everything between Llanes and Piňeres are either closed or fully booked. Yet, we managed to get places in some hostel via Booking.com.
Besides accomodation, the bars, stores and cafeterias are open as usual. Yet to say, there are very busy.
So, tomorrow we have a short etape which ends near a beach area. So, that will be nice after two 30+ km days
There is an Albergue in Cuerres. It is a private home that is wonderful. A German couple Manfred and Bridgette I believe.
Hey, I was wondering what Pippa is packing in her backpack? How many sets of clothes, etc.. I was thinking of taking 2 sets of clothes plus the one I would wear on travel day or is this too much? I am still hopeful for our October camino.
Thanks!
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Aaaah I just read this. I'm in Santander next week. I want to look into this. Does google maps count as GPS??Hi, @Albert,
My suggestion has nothing to do with your pack, but because I see you are starting in Santander, I can’t resist telling you about a beautiful alternative out of Santander that follows the coast and not the Camino. It is really a gorgeous way to start your camino, IMO. You can read about it in this thread by @Dave. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/following-the-coast-from-santander-to-boo.42660/
That leads me to a broader comment about the Norte generally. There is a lot of asphalt walking on the Norte, and it can be hard on your feet. And it is frustrating to know you are so close to the ocean but the camino takes you on the road. Several of us did a fair amount of research a few years ago and came up with some alternative coastal stages, no more than a km or two from the road the camino goes on. They are all pretty spectacular. You would need a GPS or some device to get you from the Camino to the ocean path, because there is no marking to indicate how to join up. But there are directions and lots of suggestions in this thread.
Good luck with your plans, and thank you for your willingness to report back to those of us who are locked down with no opportunity to get back to a Camino!
Buen camino, Laurie
Aaaah I just read this. I'm in Santander next week. I want to look into this. Does google maps count as GPS??
The race for beds is absolutely disgusting. The walk is so enjoyable. When you are walking... even when you think you are going to die on the hard parts, everything is calm and perfect and you experience so much joy...... Then you get to your destination ..... and there is an overwhelming amount of stress trying to find a bed for the next day. Literally hours of work. It completely ruins the entire day of pure bliss.
I hope the change works out for the better for you. Buen Camino
Thanks for the updates! Enjoy...Day 9 & 10 - Campiello - Berducedo - Grandas de Salime
Yesterday we did the Hospitales route, the weather was absolutely stunning, but it was too hot at the end of the day. We had a bit of troubles with water managment, yet eventually we discovered a fountain around 4km before Berducedo.
We started at around 8 in the morning and managed the 28km stage quite quickly, we had only one stop therefore we managed to reach Berducedo at around 14:30. Bars were open there, yet only one albergue and one pension is working these days.
Today, we left at around 8:00 as well, we had a tiny breakfast in the village after Berducedo (in an open albergue) and continued to Grandas de Salime, where we booked a double room in the only open albergue. Weather has completely changed, we had an extremely foggy morning and it was finally a bit more chilly.
Yesterday and today, the hospitalero checked our body temperature for the first times. Normally, you are only obligated to wear a mask and desinfect your hands. In most places they desinfect hands or wear gloves while touching IDs/Passports.
The albergue we are in right now has the kitchen available for use, they also wash the dishes in dishwasher after the pilgrims clean them so they go through higher temperature.
So far, I would say everyone is following most of the rules to the limit they can. The most major things like masks and desinfections are omnipresent. Sometimes the albergues dont force you to put your backapack in a special room or in a black plastic bag. Yet, I consider those very miniature issues.
So far, everyone is really respectful, yet not crazily restricting. We as pilgrims want the albergues to run as they create a crucial infrustructure, so we follow the norms. The same can be said about the hospitaleros. They want their business to survive, so there is a mutual respect on both sides.
To sum up, after around 12 days in Spain (10 walking the Camino), I have not encountered any form of conflict in terms of the masks or COVID. People are generally very friendly towards pilgrims, we were offered fruit etc.. by the locals. They also almost always wish us "Buen Camino".
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