second Camino, considering El Norte

CaminoKate0214 · Nov 11, 2015

Hi all,

My second Camino will commence in June of 2016. I'll have a month overall, so plenty of time to walk. I land in Paris, and had originally thought to walk the Via Turonensis (Paris to Tours), but on reading, have determined (for now?) that the VT seems not to be well-marked. After reading here and in The Northern Caminos book, I am seriously thinking about walking El Norte.

A few questions:

1) What's the best way to get from Paris to Irun? Or is stopping in Bayonne a better option? From Bayonne, how best to get to Irun?
2) How mountainous/hilly is it? How difficult on the knees and ankles? I have both issues. I can't run, but I can certainly hike, although I am a proud snail walker. Everyone is faster than me, but I'm persistent!
3) What are some things not to be missed on El Norte?
4) What are places to be aware of (not-so-bueno albergues, places where food might be scarce, etc.)?
5) Anything else I should know? All advice, suggestions, reminiscences, etc. are most welcome.

One major thing the CF taught me last year is to fear not; the Camino provides. I'm a strong introvert by nature, so the solitariness of El Norte appeals. I'm 47, overweight but active, and did 100 miles on the CF last year as a first-time hiker, and loved it (after getting over first-day heat exhaustion).

Thank you,
Katie

oursonpolaire · Nov 11, 2015

I started in Biarritz, partly because it has a few interesting buildings to visit, and partly because I enjoy crossing borders, and Spain is but a few hours on foot. It is well-marked and a very pleasant seaside walk. 2) I found the first week the most challenging, hilly-wise, and you might want to think of shorter stages than is generally recommended--- possibly no more than 16km-18km a day. 3) Seafood. I'm sure that you've had a look through the del Norte threads on this site, as they offer you pages upon pages of up-to-date information on albergues. My only advice is, if you're an art person, skip the interior of the Guggenheim in Bilbao, and visit the Bellas Artes, a few hundred metres to the north.

LTfit · Nov 11, 2015

Hi Katie,

I saw that you read my post in another thread about the Norte so I will not repeat here.

Here are some answers to your questions:

1) What's the best way to get from Paris to Irun? Or is stopping in Bayonne a better option? From Bayonne, how best to get to Irun?
Direct train from Paris Monparnasse to Hendaye http://proposition.voyages-sncf.com...8cd914&language=fr&country=FR#/?queryId=OKVJJ
Hendaye is on the other side of the river from Irún. You just cross the Puente de Santiago and you are in Irún. It is not a far walk.
You can pick up a credential in the Albergue Municipal in Irún. They also offer a communal breakfast.

2) How mountainous/hilly is it? How difficult on the knees and ankles? I have both issues. I can't run, but I can certainly hike, although I am a proud snail walker. Everyone is faster than me, but I'm persistent!
They say that the first week is the hardest and as I only walked to Portugalete (8 days) can only give my opinion about that stretch. I had no problem but I have no knee, hip or ankle issues. There are many ups and downs EACH DAY. I didn't experience them as being long but there were definately people who had difficulty here. Something to think about. Take walking poles for sure.

3) What are some things not to be missed on El Norte?
The Museo de la Paz (Peace Museum) in Gernika and the Guggenheim INSIDE AND OUT. I just loved it, in fact the inside is an architectual wonder in my opinion.
4) What are places to be aware of (not-so-bueno albergues, places where food might be scarce, etc.)?
Always be prepared and carry sufficient water and emergency snacks.

5) Anything else I should know? All advice, suggestions, reminiscences, etc. are most welcome.

If you like solitude but still want some company maybe the Vía de la Plata would suit you more given that the terrain is flater. Just an idea.

Hope this helps and enjoy the planning!

Marc S. · Nov 11, 2015

Hello Katie.

In addition to what has been said already.

- The walk from Irun to Bilbao is really hilly indeed, with steep ascents and descents. Doable, and very beautiful, but be prepared, and make shorter stages if needed (there are enough albergues to allow for shorter stages). After Bilbao, it really does get much flatter.
- You mention you have one month to walk. The walk from Irun to Santiago is 820 km (took me 38 days), so I think you have to consider if this is doable for you, or if you want to consider skipping stages, or just accepting you may not reach Santiago this time.
- Many good albergues, but I particularly enjoyed staying in the Convento in Zumaia, and the albergues in Guemes and Pendueles (both donativo with common meals).
- The Norte is a lovely camino, and I am sure you will enjoy it. If you like seafood, you are in heaven ! The only thing is: do not expect the same as on the Camino Frances - there will be less pilgrims, probably less native English speakers, and you will pass some touristy places. No problem at all for me, but it is not the same as walking in the pilgrim bubble that the CF can be.

Marc.

Annette london · Nov 11, 2015

CaminoKate0214 said:
Hi all,

My second Camino will commence in June of 2016. I'll have a month overall, so plenty of time to walk. I land in Paris, and had originally thought to walk the Via Turonensis (Paris to Tours), but on reading, have determined (for now?) that the VT seems not to be well-marked. After reading here and in The Northern Caminos book, I am seriously thinking about walking El Norte.

A few questions:

1) What's the best way to get from Paris to Irun? Or is stopping in Bayonne a better option? From Bayonne, how best to get to Irun?
2) How mountainous/hilly is it? How difficult on the knees and ankles? I have both issues. I can't run, but I can certainly hike, although I am a proud snail walker. Everyone is faster than me, but I'm persistent!
3) What are some things not to be missed on El Norte?
4) What are places to be aware of (not-so-bueno albergues, places where food might be scarce, etc.)?
5) Anything else I should know? All advice, suggestions, reminiscences, etc. are most welcome.

One major thing the CF taught me last year is to fear not; the Camino provides. I'm a strong introvert by nature, so the solitariness of El Norte appeals. I'm 47, overweight but active, and did 100 miles on the CF last year as a first-time hiker, and loved it (after getting over first-day heat exhaustion).

Thank you,
Katie

Hi Katie, I can see that you have been looking at the posts re Camino Norte. It is beautiful but it is hard enough with more road walking than we would have liked.we did it 6 years ago and a lot can happen then in terms of hostels and albergues so not sure about that aspect. Then again, you have a couple of posts with a lot of info re practicalities. My expertise is re weight!!!! I always lose the fat on a walk and as soon as I get home it creeps up again!! I am not TOO overweight--- well yes I am I guess as I was always about 8 and a half stone in younger days and now am about 10 stone so too much really. What I find is that when I have the weight on I find it harder to get up the hills even though I am fit and we walk about 800 plus a year everywhere in Europe when we can. What I do now is try and lose some before I go away, mainly to fit into the walking trousers !! But also to keep the strain off the knees and hips and so far, so good we are both 66 and so far ok! The weight will definitely cause knee problems especially with rucksack as well. I find it so hard to lose the weight but can manage a BIT by walking each day when at home. If you can start walking now . Would you ever think of the via de la plata? It's longer but flatter but not sure again re infrastructure now. It starts in Seville as you will know. I hope I have not preached too much as I know weight is a very emotive subject so hope you don't mind. Losing it is easier said than done and believe me I know. Take care Annette

Gregory Stegman · Nov 11, 2015

oursonpolaire said:
I started in Biarritz, partly because it has a few interesting buildings to visit, and partly because I enjoy crossing borders, and Spain is but a few hours on foot. It is well-marked and a very pleasant seaside walk. 2) I found the first week the most challenging, hilly-wise, and you might want to think of shorter stages than is generally recommended--- possibly no more than 16km-18km a day. 3) Seafood. I'm sure that you've had a look through the del Norte threads on this site, as they offer you pages upon pages of up-to-date information on albergues. My only advice is, if you're an art person, skip the interior of the Guggenheim in Bilbao, and visit the Bellas Artes, a few hundred metres to the north.

Hi, Did you walk from Biarritz? I loved crossing the boarder from SJDP last year and researching this Camino for May next year.. G

oursonpolaire · Nov 12, 2015

Gregory Stegman said:
Hi, Did you walk from Biarritz? I loved crossing the boarder from SJDP last year and researching this Camino for May next year.. G

Yes-- you walk across the little bridge from Hendaie to Hendaya-- there is a small plaque saying France, and another one Spain. On your right is the railway station where Hitler and Franco had their meeting. There is an immediate change in the attitude towards pilgrims-- while the French were curious and sympathetic, the Spanish were visible welcoming.

Runa Gunnarsdottir · Nov 12, 2015

Hi Katie. I have just finished 270 km of the Camino del Norte and that was from Irún to Güemes, near to Santander.
I want to finish this walk next year and I am told it will take me three weeks.
I loved these ten days I walked, it was rather difficult, but I managed.
So if you are going to do this walk next year, please keep in contact, who know´s if we could meet.
I am from Iceland, sixty four years old woman and I love hiking.
keep in touch if you want to.
Best regards from Iceland
Runa

nalod · Nov 12, 2015

Just finished the Del Norte and would do it again in a heartbeat. Yes there are a few stiff parts but take your time and carry the lightest possible weight with you. Don't start comparing it to the Frances or other Camino routes and you will be fine. I have a post with a link to photos on another thread in the del Norte section.

Very best of luck to you, enjoy.

Regards Dermot (Nalod)

sharon w · Nov 14, 2015

Just walked part of the del Norte from Ciboure/St Jean de Luz to Llanes. I would definitely start in France. It was beautiful. We stayed in a lovely hotel in Ciboure, right on the route.
There were some difficult parts depending which route was chosen at the time. For example, we took the alpinista route out of Irun. We also chose the alternate route into Deba which was very tough. The track over the headland into Noja is steep and if raining, very dangerous.
However, the scenery is spectacular in parts and there are some beautiful places to stay, such as Santillana del Mar.
I agree about carrying the lightest weight. It is much easier to get up a tough hill if your pack is light.

Anemone del Camino · Nov 15, 2015

sharon w said:
Just walked part of the del Norte from Ciboure/St Jean de Luz to Llanes. I would definitely start in France. It was beautiful. We stayed in a lovely hotel in Ciboure, right on the route.
There were some difficult parts depending which route was chosen at the time. For example, we took the alpinista route out of Irun. We also chose the alternate route into Deba which was very tough. The track over the headland into Noja is steep and if raining, very dangerous.
However, the scenery is spectacular in parts and there are some beautiful places to stay, such as Santillana del Mar.
I agree about carrying the lightest weight. It is much easier to get up a tough hill if your pack is light.

The track over the hill to Noja is dangerous even in good conditions. Super steep, soft ground, and nothing tomhold you from falling backwards into sufers and their lessons.

catcowan · Nov 16, 2015

CaminoKate0214 said:
Hi all,

My second Camino will commence in June of 2016. I'll have a month overall, so plenty of time to walk. I land in Paris, and had originally thought to walk the Via Turonensis (Paris to Tours), but on reading, have determined (for now?) that the VT seems not to be well-marked. After reading here and in The Northern Caminos book, I am seriously thinking about walking El Norte.

A few questions:

1) What's the best way to get from Paris to Irun? Or is stopping in Bayonne a better option? From Bayonne, how best to get to Irun?
2) How mountainous/hilly is it? How difficult on the knees and ankles? I have both issues. I can't run, but I can certainly hike, although I am a proud snail walker. Everyone is faster than me, but I'm persistent!
3) What are some things not to be missed on El Norte?
4) What are places to be aware of (not-so-bueno albergues, places where food might be scarce, etc.)?
5) Anything else I should know? All advice, suggestions, reminiscences, etc. are most welcome.

One major thing the CF taught me last year is to fear not; the Camino provides. I'm a strong introvert by nature, so the solitariness of El Norte appeals. I'm 47, overweight but active, and did 100 miles on the CF last year as a first-time hiker, and loved it (after getting over first-day heat exhaustion).

Thank you,
Katie

WearyBoots · Nov 16, 2015

Hi Katie,
We walked part of the VT, Tours to Bordeaux, this May and had no problems with the way marking. It is an excellent walk that combines plenty of green corridors through farmland, on old Roman roads (now farm tracks) and some country lanes.
We then walked part of the del Norte, starting in Santander, so have to say we missed the most hilly parts. There was more road walking than on the VT, but the off road parts more than compensated. The scenery is marvellous. On the hardest parts it was one step at a time and my portly body got through.

mspath · Nov 16, 2015

Katie,

To get to Irun, Spain, from Paris you can take either a French TGV train or a night train to Hendaye, Freance, not Bayonne. At Hendaye which is the old French frontier with Irun, Spain, you can either easily walk across the international bridge or take a small shuttle train into Irun. For more on the French railroads see www.Voyages-SNCF.com.

Happy planning and Buen Camino!
MM

Bad Pilgrim · Nov 19, 2015

CaminoKate0214 said:
One major thing the CF taught me last year is to fear not; the Camino provides. I'm a strong introvert by nature, so the solitariness of El Norte appeals. I'm 47, overweight but active, and did 100 miles on the CF last year as a first-time hiker, and loved it (after getting over first-day heat exhaustion).

Hello Kate,

I read about you longing for solitariness on the Norte... I did it in 2011 and there were a lot of people. All the hospitaleros said to us "this is becoming more and more like the Camino francés!" A few times I got the very last bed in the albergues, and few times I had to go on because they were full. Don't forget that the Norte is the third most travelled camino (after the francés and the portugués). Of course there were days when I walked alone, but getting closer to Santiago meant that the number of pilgrims rapidly increased...

By the way, I'm also starting in june 2016 (second time) then to go on the Primitivo for the first time! I'm a bit worried about the crowds as they were increasing already four years ago...

I don't kow what fellow pilgrims say: is it more like the francés now, at least in terms of numbers??

Gregory Stegman · Nov 20, 2015

Bad Pilgrim said:
Hello Kate,

I read about you longing for solitariness on the Norte... I did it in 2011 and there were a lot of people. All the hospitaleros said to us "this is becoming more and more like the Camino francés!" A few times I got the very last bed in the albergues, and few times I had to go on because they were full. Don't forget that the Norte is the third most travelled camino (after the francés and the portugués). Of course there were days when I walked alone, but getting closer to Santiago meant that the number of pilgrims rapidly increased...

By the way, I'm also starting in june 2016 (second time) then to go on the Primitivo for the first time! I'm a bit worried about the crowds as they were increasing already four years ago...

I don't kow what fellow pilgrims say: is it more like the francés now, at least in terms of numbers??

Hi,
Trying to obtain as much info on Northern Camino. Plan is to commence in Irun and walk for 21 days, this is May 2016, any thoughts, I,M 65 years.

jpflavin1 · Nov 20, 2015

Bad Pilgrim said:
Hello Kate,

I read about you longing for solitariness on the Norte... I did it in 2011 and there were a lot of people. All the hospitaleros said to us "this is becoming more and more like the Camino francés!" A few times I got the very last bed in the albergues, and few times I had to go on because they were full. Don't forget that the Norte is the third most travelled camino (after the francés and the portugués). Of course there were days when I walked alone, but getting closer to Santiago meant that the number of pilgrims rapidly increased...

By the way, I'm also starting in june 2016 (second time) then to go on the Primitivo for the first time! I'm a bit worried about the crowds as they were increasing already four years ago...

I don't kow what fellow pilgrims say: is it more like the francés now, at least in terms of numbers??

Bad Pilgrim:

The Norte does not have anywhere near the volume of Pilgrims as the Frances. It also does not have the infrastructure. I walked the month of April in 2014. I had no issues with accommodation along this beautiful Camino.

Ultreya,
Joe

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