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Via de la Plata or Le Puy in May?

A

AWalkabout

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2011, VdlP 2015+2017, Podiensis 2019
Hi,
In May 2011 I walked the Camino Frances, and May this year I want to do another camino - now together with my husband.
Initially we talked about Le Puy route, but due to not that good knees we now consider the Via de la Plata instead.

Based on information found in this forum and in guide books, I've noticed the following:
Le Puy:
Pros:
- Really great nature
Cons:
- high risk of bad weather (rainy and cold) and slippery paths in May
- very hilly (at least the first part)
- need for upfront reservations
- mostly French walkers - and due to holidays in May a lot of them (I don't mind the Frenchmen at all, but I don't speak French)
- not that much camino spirit??
- expensive

Via de la Plata (either Sevilla to Salamanca, or Salamanca to Santiago):
Pros:
- good chance for nice weather in May (or at least higher tempatures)
- not that hilly
- the relaxed Spanish style (coffee bars etc. - although apparrently not that many compared to Camino Frances)
- no need for upfront reservations
- Camino spirit
Cons:
- maybe not that beautiful nature?? (or maybe just more monotonous?)
- longer distances

Has anyone done both caminos - and if so, what is your opinion? Or has anyone any comments to my pros and cons? Weather is always a tricky issue since it's never to predict - my comments above is based on what I think has highest probability.

Btw. we will do a lot of upfront training, but doing it in hilly areas is not possible, since we don't have any mountains at all in our country!

Thanks in advance for any input you may have.
/Helle
 
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Hi, Helle,
I have walked both from LePuy, starting in June, and Sevilla starting in mid April and once in early May. I think you have correctly identified the pros and cons of LePuy route. I thought it was very beautiful, but there are more ups and downs. But if you do it, try to squeeze in the time to take the Cele Valley detour, it's an absolutely amazing route. The French guidebook has it well mapped out and documented. I have heard from many that your ideas about reservations in May on LePuy are accurate. There are lots of French who take two week walking holidays along this GR in May. We did not meet too many Santiago-bound pilgrims between LePuy and SJPP, though there were of course some.

Starting in early May from Sevilla is, IMO, not at all monotonous or boring. The dehesas (rocky fields) in Extremadura in springtime are gorgeous, tons of flowers, lots of streams, huge rocks, scrub oak, it's a very beautiful landscape. There are rolling ups and downs and a few short steep climbs but nothing sustained or major. The route passes through a lot of great places to visit -- Sevilla, Merida, Caceres, Salamanca, Zamora, Ourense -- and those are just the major cities!

I don't know your comfort zone for kms, but if you're ok with 30, there aren't too many that have to be longer than that. I posted my stages here https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-vdlp.8961/ and there really wasn't any that I'd describe as a killer stage.

Both times on the Vdlp, I had to ford a few arroyos/streams, requiring me to take off boots, put on chacos, and roll up pants. Nothing major or dangerous, kind of fun actually. There is one spot where there can be bad flooding, soon after Italica on day 1 before Guillena, but a detour will be posted if the arroyo is too deep (and rumor has it that they will soon be building, or are building, a bridge over that one spot). I had great weather on the Vdlp, a few rainy days, but lots of beautiful temps and sunnty skies. I think May is just about perfect on the Vdlp. There were other pilgrims, never a crowd, no bed races, no rushing, no reservations ever.

I think both routes are wonderful, but I am partial to the Vdlp! Buen camino, Laurie
 
I have done both. The Le Puy route, I did in autumn the first time.First part was really beautiful, but the last part of it was a bit boring in September because the sunflowers had gone and some days you walked along dead sunflower and corn acres all throught the day. I have therefore come back and walked most of the route in parts in spring too. In May 2013 there were a lot of pilgrims, and not only French. I do not speek French, but that was not a problem to me. In May I sometimes took the road when the paths were a bit slippy or muddy. Walking in France needs a bit more of planning, but touristinfo is very helpful.
I did VdLP in May/June. Be prepared to wade some arroyos. In 2011 there were a lot of pilgrims so the small albergues were overloaded. very few young people and women, most old men. I walked via Astorga to SDC . If you choose Via de la Plata, do not miss the Sevilla - Salamancha part. The roman towns/cities along the way is a must, Santiponce, Zafra, Merida, Cáceres, Caparra and a lot of small nice pueblos. Have decided to go back there some time too. My advice will be: Do both, difficult to choose, both have their charms, but on my first trip on GR65 it was great to walk into St Jean Pied the Port after 30 days in France and know that the next day I would be in Spain.
 
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