roving_rufus
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances (2013-2015) Portugues (2017-2019) Via Francigena (2018-??) Camino from Ireland (2020-??)
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It was well travelled in the past! Few pilgrims now though. But still references in places. And it seems the local region Gironde/Nouvelle Aquitaine seems keen to encourage- the route so far has been extremely well marked - in fact so many it's nearly like being on the CF or CP as not only are turns marked but they've added reassurance ones even on straight stretches.It seems to have also been part of the "normal" route from Paris between the Middle Ages and the 18th Century, from about Bordeaux onwards anyway ; and in Spain, the Parisians went down the Vasco Interior to reach the Francès at Burgos.
The bay was first known for salt production now it is shellfish and especially oysters- so I treated myself to half a dozen. Several small ports around the bay you will find the old wooden fishing huts now are restaurants selling oysters.
I just love your sunny nature, despite the rain and the puddles...Day 7 Gujan Mestras to Sanguinet 19km
So I slept solidly last night until my alarm at 6.15am (a bit of a lie in). Had breakfast at hotel (it was raining heavily so it wasn't wasted time). The first 2km were on dirt paths in the trees but right by the motorway. Then onto a bike path, under motorway and out through a light industry/business area. Then onto a one way road (I was walking facing the traffic- not too much but enough). After 5km I veered off on a track and shortly reached the marked route alongside a canal. Take heed of the info in the guide notes from the local association as you have to walk on right hand side as the lane on left ends, and that there is no shade! Thankfully it was early and overcast, but the sandy/earth lane had plenty of grass and my feet were soon wet. You eventually reach a main rd which was busy and then onto a path along the perimeter fence of a military base. All along the canal I could hear helicopters, and now ut was jets taking off and landing as I walked the fence. (This section was a bit overgrown probably because the Landes section of the Voie du Littoral was closed for 9 months and reopened in May). After a few kilometres you turn onto a track with a nice welcome to Landes sign from the local pelerin association and some shade! Then onwards but the last 1km of track was quite sandy but also flooded with multiple big puddles with several the width of track so no option but to get feet wet (there were ditches on both sides of track so no way to avoid).
Into Sanguinet, first to the lake which makes it a popular holiday destination and then into the centre. Picked up keys from the Tourist Office for the pilgrim gite- (do ring in advance they even speak English!). Its in the parish hall beside the church - 2 beds and a campbed, a mini-kitchenette with sink, fridge, microwave, kettle and one cooker ring even some food items donated by the parish. Only niggle is toilet and shower are outside but they are kept locked so only for use of pilgrims but there is hot water. Keys can be left with donation in the letterbox of the mairie. It's amazing to have such a place to stay!
I kept to the other side of the lake so missed Leon. But good to hear of another accomodation option!Stay with Peter Saborowski at Villa Souvenir in Léon. Highly recommended. If you do ,say hello from Paul from Australia. I’ve stayed 3 times there.
The coastal Via Romea between Menton and Genova is, with rare exceptions, a 200K long beachside promenade.Today I am describing as like walking the camino frances but French resort style - though there were no other pilgrims there was a bar at least every 5-6km, which was a definite change from the last 3 weeks!
Some French bars only do black coffee, but it's pretty rare -- most will either do a café au lait (with warmed milk) or a crème (frothy steamed milk).Soon enough I was in Seignosse. Got my credential stamped in the tourist office and headed to look for coffee- found cute cafe called Cocooning Coffee - Madame ushered me to a big squishy sofa and I had a cappuccino (so many bars in France have fancy coffee machines but they only know how to do espresso or a long black coffee).
Hope you are enjoying France despite a few difficulties including mozzies. Glad my notes proved useful! And hopefully a few more will venture out camino-ing in western France!I'm currently in St Paul en Born having walked from the UK and the record of your three trips have been very useful. Thank you!
I wish I had taken more notice of your warning about insect repellant!
I hope you inspire more people to follow the pilgrim routes through France. It has been a challenging walk, for all the reasons you have highlighted, but I am so glad I did it.
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