Walking in December

SLOTraveler · Nov 1, 2017

Hello all, I'm hoping to get some feedback as my husband and I want to take the Camino Portuguese this coming December. This will be our first Camino, and so far, we haven't found many people who have traveled during this time. Taking into consideration every year is different, does anyone know if the weather is generally conducive to walking (hoping not too cold or too much rain!), and whether the places along the way to stay, open the rest of the year, will still be open during the month December?
We'd really appreciate any help we can get on this as time is getting short and we need to make a decision.

Kitsambler · Nov 2, 2017

SLOTraveler said:
...whether the places along the way to stay, open the rest of the year, will still be open during the month December?...

The Brierly guide for this route should list lodgings together with contact info. You could check their websites.

Wiebmer · Nov 2, 2017

Have you already walked the Camino Frances (or part of it...)?

My husband and I walked the Via Francigena (Lucca to Rome) last year after the Frances and found it much more difficult because of logistics and isolation. Day long treks with no small towns to stop in. No other pilgrims. Many parts of the path sharing roads with cars.

Because of this (and getting lost almost daily because of poorly marked paths), we really didn't get into the "zen" of the Camino.

I'll let Portuguese route veterans chime in, but when we were in Portugal last year and considered that route, it seemed to have many of the same challenges as the Via Francigena.

In 2018 we're walking half of the Frances again...we have a new appreciation for how amazing it is.

Hope this helps...Ning

amorfati1 · Nov 2, 2017

Wiebmer said:
Have you already walked the Camino Frances (or part of it...)?

My husband and I walked the Via Francigena (Lucca to Rome) last year after the Frances and found it much more difficult because of logistics and isolation. Day long treks with no small towns to stop in. No other pilgrims. Many parts of the path sharing roads with cars.

Because of this (and getting lost almost daily because of poorly marked paths), we really didn't get into the "zen" of the Camino.

I'll let Portuguese route veterans chime in, but when we were in Portugal last year and considered that route, it seemed to have many of the same challenges as the Via Francigena.

In 2018 we're walking half of the Frances again...we have a new appreciation for how amazing it is.

Hope this helps...Ning

hello Ning - sorry you had such a challenging time in Italy on a pilgrimage.
~ I found the Portugese well marked with arrows (with one exception) - only got 'lost' once in four weeks.
Good and plenty opportunities to procure good food and drink or good cooked meals.
Always found a bed (albergues, monastero, pensao, hotels, quintas, old country manor homes) - between 6 - 60 euros. Depending... Reserved in advance only once.
Not helpful to compare Via Francigena to the Frances to the Portuguese.

BTW: the OP stated in the second line of the post that it would be their first camino!

amorfati1 · Nov 2, 2017

SLOTraveler said:
Hello all, I'm hoping to get some feedback as my husband and I want to take the Camino Portuguese this coming December. This will be our first Camino, and so far, we haven't found many people who have traveled during this time. Taking into consideration every year is different, does anyone know if the weather is generally conducive to walking (hoping not too cold or too much rain!), and whether the places along the way to stay, open the rest of the year, will still be open during the month December?
We'd really appreciate any help we can get on this as time is getting short and we need to make a decision.

http://blueponykorea.blogspot.ch/2013/01/day-1-lisbon-moscavide-9-km.html

this family of 3 walked from lisboa in early January 2013.
i admired their stamina and forebearance.
Have been in Portugal several times, mainly summer. Once in Feb/March which was quite pleasant (sunny, dry, and a simple winter jacket/coat sufficed) -
but December? January?
hm ... if you read the entire blog (keeping in mind it was written almost 5 years ago and the infrastructure has indeed improved!!!!) and are OK with potential rain and mud and some more mud ... why not? only you can decide what suits you.
but also keep in mind that the further north you get towards galicia, the colder/rainier it will get (most likely)
I am not very cold enduring - but everyone is different.
best wishes - bom caminho !
C
(if you are from SLO / central coast and used to the climate there ... you might not be too amused with all that mud/rain/chill. i wouldn't. and i lived in SLO and am familiar w/ the climate there - on both sides of the grade

SLOTraveler · Nov 2, 2017

Kitsambler said:
The Brierly guide for this route should list lodgings together with contact info. You could check their websites.

Thank you, I've ordered a couple books from the Camino website, but I'll order the Brierly guide today. Thank you for your input.

SLOTraveler · Nov 2, 2017

Wiebmer said:
Have you already walked the Camino Frances (or part of it...)?

My husband and I walked the Via Francigena (Lucca to Rome) last year after the Frances and found it much more difficult because of logistics and isolation. Day long treks with no small towns to stop in. No other pilgrims. Many parts of the path sharing roads with cars.

Because of this (and getting lost almost daily because of poorly marked paths), we really didn't get into the "zen" of the Camino.

I'll let Portuguese route veterans chime in, but when we were in Portugal last year and considered that route, it seemed to have many of the same challenges as the Via Francigena.

In 2018 we're walking half of the Frances again...we have a new appreciation for how amazing it is.

Hope this helps...Ning

Thanks for the information, everything helps when it comes to researching an area, even if its just formulating the right questions! I'm not so worried about the isolation, other pilgrims etc. as much as I am the possibility of obtaining lodging and severe weather. It doesn't seem to me many people have actually walked this route during this month, which may tell me something right there. Thanks for your input.

SLOTraveler · Nov 2, 2017

amorfati1 said:
http://blueponykorea.blogspot.ch/2013/01/day-1-lisbon-moscavide-9-km.html

this family of 3 walked from lisboa in early January 2013.
i admired their stamina and forebearance.
Have been in Portugal several times, mainly summer. Once in Feb/March which was quite pleasant (sunny, dry, and a simple winter jacket/coat sufficed) -
but December? January?
hm ... if you read the entire blog (keeping in mind it was written almost 5 years ago and the infrastructure has indeed improved!!!!) and are OK with potential rain and mud and some more mud ... why not? only you can decide what suits you.
but also keep in mind that the further north you get towards galicia, the colder/rainier it will get (most likely)
I am not very cold enduring - but everyone is different.
best wishes - bom caminho !
C
(if you are from SLO / central coast and used to the climate there ... you might not be too amused with all that mud/rain/chill. i wouldn't. and i lived in SLO and am familiar w/ the climate there - on both sides of the grade

Yes, we are indeed from SLO, and are used to a more temperate climate, but weather doesn't bother me, either. Still, it would depend on HOW MUCH weather we would encounter. Where there is mud there is rain, and that can get old after a few days, let alone a week. That, and not sure of the lodging will be the two reasons we wouldn't go then. Our son died recently, and this could be a tough December for us. We just thought the idea of a pilgrimage sounded right. But, I don't want to push it--I'll research some more. Thank you for your input.

amorfati1 · Nov 2, 2017

SLOTraveler said:
Yes, we are indeed from SLO, and are used to a more temperate climate, but weather doesn't bother me, either. Still, it would depend on HOW MUCH weather we would encounter. Where there is mud there is rain, and that can get old after a few days, let alone a week. That, and not sure of the lodging will be the two reasons we wouldn't go then. Our son died recently, and this could be a tough December for us. We just thought the idea of a pilgrimage sounded right. But, I don't want to push it--I'll research some more. Thank you for your input.

A pilgrimage indeed does sound right! so very sorry for your heartbreak ...i can relate more than i ever thought i needed to - (be able to relate)
i found a pilgrimage to be a very suitable way of honouring yourselves and the ones you have lost thru death.

i've met this chap some years ago on the camino - and curiously enough - I had read his blog some years earlier. he walked the Camino Real. from Mission to Mission ... perhaps that would be of interest?
http://walkpuravida.com/category/california-mission-trail/
no need of course to walk the entire Camino Real - perhaps just the area of most interest.
or else - the Via de la Plata in Spain might be less damp - but perhaps has a few longer stages? not sure ... info on that varies.
or see how it is in Portugal this december - and if it's too damp - book a train down south to the Algarve or Alentejo and catch some sunrays and warmth.
(one thing to consider is that for the most part - portugual can be very warm. And I have never seen a heating system there. So - when it got cold and rainy in May on the camino, there were no heaters in the rooms I stayed ... and it wasn't too amusing. ended up buying lots of candles to light to get some measure of warmth ... AND a couple of hot water bottles AND several layers of blankies)
Yet ---
Portugal is a most endearing place to be too soothe ones heart and soul.
and the food and vinho doesn't hurt either. And the people there can be such treasures as well...
Very best wishes - C

SLOTraveler · Nov 3, 2017

amorfati1 said:
A pilgrimage indeed does sound right! so very sorry for your heartbreak ...i can relate more than i ever thought i needed to - (be able to relate)
i found a pilgrimage to be a very suitable way of honouring yourselves and the ones you have lost thru death.

i've met this chap some years ago on the camino - and curiously enough - I had read his blog some years earlier. he walked the Camino Real. from Mission to Mission ... perhaps that would be of interest?
http://walkpuravida.com/category/california-mission-trail/
no need of course to walk the entire Camino Real - perhaps just the area of most interest.
or else - the Via de la Plata in Spain might be less damp - but perhaps has a few longer stages? not sure ... info on that varies.
or see how it is in Portugal this december - and if it's too damp - book a train down south to the Algarve or Alentejo and catch some sunrays and warmth.
(one thing to consider is that for the most part - portugual can be very warm. And I have never seen a heating system there. So - when it got cold and rainy in May on the camino, there were no heaters in the rooms I stayed ... and it wasn't too amusing. ended up buying lots of candles to light to get some measure of warmth ... AND a couple of hot water bottles AND several layers of blankies)
Yet ---
Portugal is a most endearing place to be too soothe ones heart and soul.
and the food and vinho doesn't hurt either. And the people there can be such treasures as well...
Very best wishes - C

Thank you for that wonderful blog! And walking from Mission to Mission has been bandied around in the past, however, I think the Camino Santiago sounds more in keeping right now with what we were both needing/wanting. Still, if it got cool in May, it probably really gets cold in December. And I also worry about the Christmas holiday. We lived in Costa Rica quite a while back, and everything shut down the entire month of December. They took that time very seriously--which is wonderful--I just don't want to interfere or be needing accommodation when they really aren't inclined or able to provide any. Sometimes the best thing to do is to just go and find out the right path as you're walking. It is a spiritual journey after all, so why not let yourself be led? That being said, I'm still researching.

JCLima · Nov 3, 2017

SLOTraveler said:
Thank you for that wonderful blog! And walking from Mission to Mission has been bandied around in the past, however, I think the Camino Santiago sounds more in keeping right now with what we were both needing/wanting. Still, if it got cool in May, it probably really gets cold in December. And I also worry about the Christmas holiday. We lived in Costa Rica quite a while back, and everything shut down the entire month of December. They took that time very seriously--which is wonderful--I just don't want to interfere or be needing accommodation when they really aren't inclined or able to provide any. Sometimes the best thing to do is to just go and find out the right path as you're walking. It is a spiritual journey after all, so why not let yourself be led? That being said, I'm still researching.

December can get really cold and wet, especially up north, but this year has been unusually warm and dry (hottest october since 1931, so they say). Anyway, I would recommend bringing a sleeping bag.
In terms of things closing... Well, dont worry, things only close completely on December 25th and January 1st.

amorfati1 · Nov 3, 2017

SLOTraveler said:
Thank you for that wonderful blog! And walking from Mission to Mission has been bandied around in the past, however, I think the Camino Santiago sounds more in keeping right now with what we were both needing/wanting. Still, if it got cool in May, it probably really gets cold in December. And I also worry about the Christmas holiday. We lived in Costa Rica quite a while back, and everything shut down the entire month of December. They took that time very seriously--which is wonderful--I just don't want to interfere or be needing accommodation when they really aren't inclined or able to provide any. Sometimes the best thing to do is to just go and find out the right path as you're walking. It is a spiritual journey after all, so why not let yourself be led? That being said, I'm still researching.

you are welcome ---
and: "Sometimes the best thing to do is to just go and find out the right path as you're walking. It is a spiritual journey after all, so why not let yourself be led? That being said, I'm still researching. "
sounds good -
highly encourage to proceed with the pilgrimage intention ... and hope that you'll both find something that resonates for you both.
(as a irish flat-mate recently shared with me [quoting her mum] : "What is For you - will not pass you by.")
loved that ...
Happy trails - and Buen Camino - wherever you might walk.
saluti
C

MJB · Nov 4, 2017

SLOTraveler said:
Hello all, I'm hoping to get some feedback as my husband and I want to take the Camino Portuguese this coming December.

The Camino Portuguese from Oporto north, and any camino in Galicia will be rainy in December, with the Portuguese or Ingles being the rainiest. The Camino Frances in Castile and Leon is cooler but noticeably drier. (Dealing with cool temperatures is much easier than dealing with rain. Just layer carefully.)

In a nutshell, in December the Portuguese (using Vigo and Santiago as a reference) experiences 15 or 16 days or rain a month, and a total of about 260 mm/10" of rain. Leon and Burgos average about 9 days of rain, totaling about 60 mm/2.5". The early part of Galicia (e.g., Sarria, using values for Lugo) falls in the middle, 14 days of rain totaling about 135 mm/5.5". If you want to compare detailed statistics, the Spanish meteorology service has simple tables you can use to compare by place and month of the year.

http://www.aemet.es/es/serviciosclimaticos/datosclimatologicos/valoresclimatologicos

June-mid-September is the relatively dry period on the Camino Portuguese. My wife and I walked in early October and got socked with heavy rain seven of nine days. Our shoes never dried, and smelled so horrible that we threw them out at the end. I also walked from Burgos to Villafranco del Bierzo (just before the Leon-Galicia border) in December and had only one day of steady rain. (If it snows, there is almost always a nearby small road alternative to follow if you are wearing sneakers or just want to be drier.)

Most private albergues on the Frances close in December, but enough municipal and religious ones and hostales and hotels stay open to manage the walk without a problem. (Every fall a list of albergues that will be open gets posted on this site.) There are enough hotels and casas rurais on the Portugues to walk in December too, if you don't mind paying for them.

My notes on walking in December:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/short-winter-camino-notes.30363/

Enjoy it! I would love to be going.

SLOTraveler · Nov 4, 2017

MJB said:
The Camino Portuguese from Oporto north, and any camino in Galicia will be rainy in December, with the Portuguese or Ingles being the rainiest. The Camino Frances in Castile and Leon is cooler but noticeably drier. (Dealing with cool temperatures is much easier than dealing with rain. Just layer carefully.)

In a nutshell, in December the Portuguese (using Vigo and Santiago as a reference) experiences 15 or 16 days or rain a month, and a total of about 260 mm/10" of rain. Leon and Burgos average about 9 days of rain, totaling about 60 mm/2.5". The early part of Galicia (e.g., Sarria, using values for Lugo) falls in the middle, 14 days of rain totaling about 135 mm/5.5". If you want to compare detailed statistics, the Spanish meteorology service has simple tables you can use to compare by place and month of the year.

http://www.aemet.es/es/serviciosclimaticos/datosclimatologicos/valoresclimatologicos

June-mid-September is the relatively dry period on the Camino Portuguese. My wife and I walked in early October and got socked with heavy rain seven of nine days. Our shoes never dried, and smelled so horrible that we threw them out at the end. I also walked from Burgos to Villafranco del Bierzo (just before the Leon-Galicia border) in December and had only one day of steady rain. (If it snows, there is almost always a nearby small road alternative to follow if you are wearing sneakers or just want to be drier.)

Most private albergues on the Frances close in December, but enough municipal and religious ones and hostales and hotels stay open to manage the walk without a problem. (Every fall a list of albergues that will be open gets posted on this site.) There are enough hotels and casas rurais on the Portugues to walk in December too, if you don't mind paying for them.

My notes on walking in December:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/short-winter-camino-notes.30363/

Enjoy it! I would love to be going.

Thank you so much. Really great information and enough to help me begin looking at alternative routes. Like you, the cold wouldn't bother me near as much as the steady rain. And thank you for compiling and sharing notes. I'm going to do the same for anyone who comes after us, looking for information on the month and route we eventually end up taking. It's such a huge help.

I'm considering talking to a tour company for partial help--at least to get us started in the dry--and then take it from there. Would you consider the Portuguese route a more expensive alternative this time of year than what's available along the Frances? I hadn't considered this, but thought it might be worth asking.

Again, thank you.

MJB · Nov 5, 2017

SLOTraveler said:
I'm considering talking to a tour company for partial help--at least to get us started in the dry--and then take it from there. Would you consider the Portuguese route a more expensive alternative this time of year than what's available along the Frances? I hadn't considered this, but thought it might be worth asking.

On the Frances you can stay in albergues and find approx 10 euro pilgrim's menus or menu turisticos almost every day. So it can be cheaper. In Portugal you will likely need more hotel stays and fixed price menus are not as ubiquitous. But for a ten day walk, the difference is not likely to be deal breaker.

If money is an issue, you do not need a tour company for any part of the trip. To start the Camino Portugues it is easy to fly direct to Oporto (or take the express train to Oporto after flying into Lisbon) and the Brierly guide is more than adequate for navigation, hotels, etc. For the Frances, you can fly into Madrid and take an ALSA bus direct from Terminal 4 to any of the big cities you want to walk from (less than 3 hours to Burgos [3 wks walk to Santiago], probably 4 to Leon [2 weeks to Santiago] and 5 to Ponferrada [9-10 days to Santiago]). These are good-sized cities with many hotels and multiple albergues. The list of winter albergues and any popular guide will be more than enough to guide you.

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