Marla in CA
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2019
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This helps me tremendously. I really appreciate it. I like the fact that you informed me about industrial suburbs, not being so pretty, yet you would walk it again. This is exactly the type of honesty and first hand experience I was looking for in response to my question.Tomar is a beautiful town and it's a beautiful walk from there to Coimbra.
From Coimbra to Porto there is some tramping through industrial suburbs, it's not so pretty.
But it's all Portuguese camino, good or bad, I would walk it all again in a heartbeat.
I agree. I found the Tomar to Coimbra stretch much nicer than the Coimbra to Porto stretch.Tomar is a beautiful town and it's a beautiful walk from there to Coimbra.
From Coimbra to Porto there is some tramping through industrial suburbs, it's not so pretty.
Thank you. Going to revise my plan.I agree. I found the Tomar to Coimbra stretch much nicer than the Coimbra to Porto stretch.
I’m starting from Tomar March 22 with several “off stage” stops to visit Templar sites. I hate to book ahead, thoughts on that between Tomar and Coimbra. Thank you!I agree. I found the Tomar to Coimbra stretch much nicer than the Coimbra to Porto stretch.
Hi. I walked from Coimbra to Santiago. Have also walked the coastal another time from Porto. I had a major issue with one of my eyes a day after leaving Coimbra( needing to visit a hospital), walked two days in torrential rain and one bizarre experience in a weird accommodation. Like someone else said I too would walk again in a heartbeat. If I'd time would love to have left from Lisbon. The magic of the Way is hard to explain but I will never forget walking across the Dom Luis Bridge into Porto with my eye patch and that inexplicable feeling of freedom. Buen CaminoTomar is a beautiful town and it's a beautiful walk from there to Coimbra.
From Coimbra to Porto there is some tramping through industrial suburbs, it's not so pretty.
But it's all Portuguese camino, good or bad, I would walk it all again in a heartbeat.
My view is that booking ahead isn’t necessary as there’s not going to be any kind of bed race on this part of the CP.I’m starting from Tomar March 22 with several “off stage” stops to visit Templar sites. I hate to book ahead, thoughts on that between Tomar and Coimbra. Thank you!
Even though I recommended skipping Coimbra-Porto, I agree that the Porto entrance is spectacular (with or without an eye patch!). I am on the record as saying that it must be the most amazing city view-entrance on any camino, because you approach it from the perfect direction but it’s completely hidden from you until at a certain point the entire city is suddenly revealed in front of your eyes and then it stays that way as you cross the bridge.The magic of the Way is hard to explain but I will never forget walking across the Dom Luis Bridge into Porto with my eye patch and that inexplicable feeling of freedom. Buen Camino
Thank you, very helpful. I am going to study the stages today, and recalculate. Appreciate your vote.Another vote for starting in Tomar. Spend a day or so there as well as Coimbra. They are both very nice towns with a lot of history to see. As others have said, the Coimbra to Porto is a lot of industry but I still liked the walk. If you need the time, skip that section.
Interesting perspective but I’m not sure it really applies here. The OP isn’t going for the whole cake and will be skipping stages no matter what. The question is which stages to skip.When deciding on whether to skip less appealing sections of a Camino I’m reminded of a statement from a poster, maybe on here, who said “I’m not just choosing the cherry and icing, I’m eating the whole cake”.
THank you Jungleboy. Spot on.Interesting perspective but I’m not sure it really applies here. The OP isn’t going for the whole cake and will be skipping stages no matter what. The question is which stages to skip.
Interesting to know this as I am planning to walk up the coast from Espinho into Porto so I wonder how that coastal approach to the bridge and city will compare. And will walk Tomar to Coimbra before that.Even though I recommended skipping Coimbra-Porto, I agree that the Porto entrance is spectacular (with or without an eye patch!). I am on the record as saying that it must be the most amazing city view-entrance on any camino, because you approach it from the perfect direction but it’s completely hidden from you until at a certain point the entire city is suddenly revealed in front of your eyes and then it stays that way as you cross the bridge.
Given your comments about the remarkable entrance to Porto, wouldn't it be simple for me to just hop off the train a bit before Porto so I can experience what you and others have described? Or maybe the train to Porto from Tomar is direct without stops?Even though I recommended skipping Coimbra-Porto, I agree that the Porto entrance is spectacular (with or without an eye patch!). I am on the record as saying that it must be the most amazing city view-entrance on any camino, because you approach it from the perfect direction but it’s completely hidden from you until at a certain point the entire city is suddenly revealed in front of your eyes and then it stays that way as you cross the bridge.
General Torres would be the closest train station to the viewpoint/bridge but that may require going to Porto Campanha and then getting a local train back, which may defeat the purpose a bit. Alternatively you could get off the train before Torres at Vila Nova da Gaia (which trains from Coimbra should stop at) and walk about 25 minutes to the viewpoint and then into Porto. So that could be worth considering!Given your comments about the remarkable entrance to Porto, wouldn't it be simple for me to just hop off the train a bit before Porto so I can experience what you and others have described? Or maybe the train to Porto from Tomar is direct without stops?
Thank you!!General Torres would be the closest train station to the viewpoint/bridge but that may require going to Porto Campanha and then getting a local train back, which may defeat the purpose a bit. Alternatively you could get off the train before Torres at Vila Nova da Gaia (which trains from Coimbra should stop at) and walk about 25 minutes to the viewpoint and then into Porto. So that could be worth considering!
I’m not sure but since that’s a DIY-type route anyway you could probably make it work. There’s one bridge further west (i.e. closer to the coast) than the Don Luís I bridge (the Arrábida bridge) so that might be the more direct way to cross the Douro but even so, you’d have to head back east after crossing it to reach the centre of Porto anyway, so it might be worth making that eastward move on the south side of the river.Interesting to know this as I am planning to walk up the coast from Espinho into Porto so I wonder how that coastal approach to the bridge and city will compare. And will walk Tomar to Coimbra before that.
Thank you Nick. Good advice as I had not studied the route closely. Just inspired by another walker's post to walk via Lavadores and Alfurada but see now to continue eastward as you suggest to cross the Don Luis 1 bridge. And that Miradouro is a great idea too.I’m not sure but since that’s a DIY-type route anyway you could probably make it work. There’s one bridge further west (i.e. closer to the coast) than the Don Luís I bridge (the Arrábida bridge) so that might be the more direct way to cross the Douro but even so, you’d have to head back east after crossing it to reach the centre of Porto anyway, so it might be worth making that eastward move on the south side of the river.
Also worth doing before the Don Luís I bridge is going up to the Miradouro (viewpoint) da Serra do Pilar, which is near the bridge but higher up and it looks down upon the bridge, the river, and Porto.
That walk, if you follow the coast all the way, will take you around through Lavadores and the fishing village of Afurada before continuing (under the Arrábida bridge) along the Gaia shoreline as Porto comes into view, as you continue past the port warehouses to the Luis Bridge to cross it on the lower level. Its a lovely walk in itself, it's just that you'll see it for a while beforehand, and you won't be hit with the sudden spectacular view from the higher level as you are when you walk in by Avinida da Republica.Interesting to know this as I am planning to walk up the coast from Espinho into Porto so I wonder how that coastal approach to the bridge and city will compare. And will walk Tomar to Coimbra before that.
Thank you Flog for your detailed reply. I now have a clearer idea of this approach to Porto. Am still deciding which way to go. I have not walked the higher level by Avinda de Republica before which is appealing too.That walk, if you follow the coast all the way, will take you around through Lavadores and the fishing village of Afurada before continuing (under the Arrábida bridge) along the Gaia shoreline as Porto comes into view, as you continue past the port warehouses to the Luis Bridge to cross it on the lower level. Its a lovely walk in itself, it's just that you'll see it for a while beforehand, and you won't be hit with the sudden spectacular view from the higher level as you are when you walk in by Avinida da Republica.
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