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My favourite meal while on the Primitivo was definitely the seafood paella we had for dinner at the albergue at Ponte Ferreira. It looked glorious and tasted great washed down with a nice glass of red wine.We will be walking the Primitivo in June 2015. We love to try new foods and especially to make sure we have sampled local specialties. So I am curious, what were your favorite Primitivo foods? Do you remember where you had them?
Liz
As a local speciality then Tarta de Fonsagrada, in Casa Manolo and also elsewhere in town. Difficult to describe, but think of a trifle with almond sponge or a spoonable creamy tarta de Santiago.
We liked all the food and the cafe we ate at in Cadabo-Baleria was Las Tres Espuelas Avda de Lugo 5 - great platos combinados. Was this where you were @Pelegrin - it is in the centre of town.
We love caldo Galego and make it here at home now.
Asturias is known for grilled meats, cider, and a bean/soup dish called fabada. All can be amazing but beware, like most of Europe, there are more bad tourist versions out there that can be counted. Avoid peregrino type places.
Mine was not in the centre of town, maybe it was Hostal Restaurante Moneda but I'm not sure.
For me a good caldo has to have plenty of vegetables (grelos or berzas) and low fat. Usually the caldo galego for tourists has a lot of potatoes, beans and fat (chorizo, blackpudding) trying to hide the vegetable taste, but the authentic caldo has low fat. Pote Asturiano has a lot a fat in my opinion. In my Primitivo I noticed those differences from the super strong (and famous) pote in La Nueva Allandesa to the soft caldo in Fonsagrada and the transition pote/caldo in Arreigada (Grandas). So I carried out an interesting research.
Pelegrin -- my husband and I found Caldo Galego when we walked the Frances. I didn't care for it, but my husband loved it -- he has made a hobby out of trying to make it here in the US but says he can't get the same variety of berza or grelo here. The berza in Galicia seems like it was a cross between what we call kale and collards but as you say, with a broccoli flavor. And the grelo is more flavorful than our turnips. So he is anxiously waiting to return for some authentic soup! He will be thrilled to know a good place fo caldo! Thanks, LizI also agree with Peregrina 200o, pulpo in Fonsagrada is very good. There are organised trips from east Galicia and western Asturias just to eat pulpo in the two places (O Caldeira and Candal) . Also caldo galego is very good in O Caldeira.
I'm Galego and I love caldo. I know that it is not an easy food for people who are not used to it, but it's a very healthy food. Their vegetables berza and grelo have the same properties as broccoli.
I had also a very good caldo at the first restaurant entering Cadavo-Valeira (sorry I don't remember the name).
Try Calle Gatona in Oveido there are about 10-12 places all competing with each other, you follow the directions for the Norte in front of the Cathedral and you are on it in about 100 metres. We stayed in a pension on it for the 2 nights and in the mornings there was always vans lined up delivering crates of all types of fresh seafood.
You're not the only one!This question is killing me. I am a total food person, but sadly, I as much as I loved the Primitivo, I don't have any stellar food memories between Oviedo and Lugo.
You're not the only one!. The above list of suggestions will probably give new insights to future pilgrims. Whilst more important are convivial experiences, and if the food is good (bless this Forum)....so much the better.
Charleen -- Are you from the UK by chance??? You comment instantly brought to mind my British grandmother. One of her favorite lunches was a sardine sandwich. As kids we thought this was the most awful thing! I've grown to like sardines as an adult but I haven't thought of a sardine sandwich in years.A can of sardines (in olive oil) and a baguette, on the side of the trail
Glad that it reminded you of your grandmother, Liz.Charleen -- Are you from the UK by chance??? You comment instantly brought to mind my British grandmother. One of her favorite lunches was a sardine sandwich. As kids we thought this was the most awful thing! I've grown to like sardines as an adult but I haven't thought of a sardine sandwich in years.L
The five course dinner at Herminia's place in Campiello was the most memorable (and delicious) meal on the Primitivo for me. VERY full at the end of that evening! Don't usually photograph food but this one had to be documented! A fun night - tables set up in her shop with great company and conversation. And yes, the fried bread breakfast the next morning was pretty tasty too.
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