Vacajoe
Traded in my work boots for hiking ones
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances, Portuguese, Aragon, Norte, SJWayUK, Nive
Just returned from WALKING from Pamplona to Sangüesa (April 2019), connecting the Camino Frances and the Camino Aragones via the abandoned railway route of Spain’s first electric railroad! A great, relatively easy three day walk which can be done on its own or a unique way to get some “alone time” if the CF crowds are a bit much.
The following details my route from P to S, but either direction works since there is limited signage and no other pilgrims out there for most of the walk. At either end, I recommend the standard albergues (muni in Sangüesa and Jesus-Maria in Pamplona) which were clean and inexpensive. On this route, you have little choice of where to stay: either the one hotel in town or wild camping.
A few more tips:
- The historic railway route can be followed in part, but they are still developing the route (photo below of the rail route) and it follows a major roadway most of the way. I used maps.me or a similar mapping program to find the off-tarmac routes versus following the highway the entire route. I would encourage the same since we walked through forests and grasslands versus roadside paths.
- Both hotels I stayed at are on Booking.com, but we were the only guests at each so pre-booking may not be critical off-season.
- Very little English spoken on the route, but google translate and pantomiming worked!
*Pamplona-Lérruz-Urroz (23km)
Gradual climb out of Pamplona on a sidewalk next to a little-used paved road. Then cut over a mountain range through the Irati Forest towards the end. No real services enroute, but found some water faucets. Carry lunch! Stayed at “Hotel Rural Muskilda” in Urroz for 60€ - delightful stay with dinner and breakfast available.
* Urroz-Turrillas-Lumbier (22km)
Nearly identical to the previous day, except less roadside walking. Stayed at Hotel Iru Bide (60€) and had a great dinner. In the morning, wait until they put out the “second breakfast” counter foods around 0900 to 0930 - they were fantastic!
* Lumbier to Sangüesa (15km)
Easy day of flat walking, with half of it on the roadside but worth that part to see the Foz de Lumbier!!! The rail line followed a Roman trade route through a magnificent canyon, leaving a great pedestrian hiking path that shouldn’t be missed.
So that’s it! Three days of walking through farmland, forest, and a Foz with no pilgrims for nearly all of it. A historic route touching on Roman trade caravans, early electric railroading, and Santiago pilgrims!
Buen Camino!
The following details my route from P to S, but either direction works since there is limited signage and no other pilgrims out there for most of the walk. At either end, I recommend the standard albergues (muni in Sangüesa and Jesus-Maria in Pamplona) which were clean and inexpensive. On this route, you have little choice of where to stay: either the one hotel in town or wild camping.
A few more tips:
- The historic railway route can be followed in part, but they are still developing the route (photo below of the rail route) and it follows a major roadway most of the way. I used maps.me or a similar mapping program to find the off-tarmac routes versus following the highway the entire route. I would encourage the same since we walked through forests and grasslands versus roadside paths.
- Both hotels I stayed at are on Booking.com, but we were the only guests at each so pre-booking may not be critical off-season.
- Very little English spoken on the route, but google translate and pantomiming worked!
*Pamplona-Lérruz-Urroz (23km)
Gradual climb out of Pamplona on a sidewalk next to a little-used paved road. Then cut over a mountain range through the Irati Forest towards the end. No real services enroute, but found some water faucets. Carry lunch! Stayed at “Hotel Rural Muskilda” in Urroz for 60€ - delightful stay with dinner and breakfast available.
* Urroz-Turrillas-Lumbier (22km)
Nearly identical to the previous day, except less roadside walking. Stayed at Hotel Iru Bide (60€) and had a great dinner. In the morning, wait until they put out the “second breakfast” counter foods around 0900 to 0930 - they were fantastic!
* Lumbier to Sangüesa (15km)
Easy day of flat walking, with half of it on the roadside but worth that part to see the Foz de Lumbier!!! The rail line followed a Roman trade route through a magnificent canyon, leaving a great pedestrian hiking path that shouldn’t be missed.
So that’s it! Three days of walking through farmland, forest, and a Foz with no pilgrims for nearly all of it. A historic route touching on Roman trade caravans, early electric railroading, and Santiago pilgrims!
Buen Camino!