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Fear not, there are always pilgrims! Check in to that albergue in Ponferrada and you will have company immediately. Or just meet them on the Way on your the first morning.
Indeed, my experience was unremitting mud during the wet late-Spring of 2013. It is difficult to predict, although it is now summer so it should be dry...
It's a tough climb. I did it as a fairly fit 54yo and would not discount the effort. What I clearly remember is the cyclists pushing their bikes uphill only minutes after keaving SJPdP! Of course if you have trained on other walks prior to departure then it will be easier. If you haven't...
My own experience during May 2013 was that of cold, damp weather. And consequently that of ankle-deep mud...
But it was considered the most inclement Spring in years, so it was an exception, I expect.
If you live there then I would say you will find it cold. I remember meeting a girl from Darwin in Pamplona in July many years ago who was wearing a parka due to her feeling the cold, while the rest of us were wearing t-shirts!
Having walked caminos in Spring and Autumn, I would definitely recommend a sleeping bag. It gets cold at night at altitude, even after warm days. Waking-up cold in a silk liner in the middle of the night is not something I will risk again!
I did something similar in 2013, a 38km day to make-up time. San Juan was not great. Everyone ate in shifts in the cafe, since the albergue had only a vending machine. But at least a meal was available, and I was too tired to continue that day. Maybe it has improved since then.
It's a fact that personal fitness levels determine how easy or difficult a climb will be. However, some posts make no mention of that when describing their own journey as 'easy', so it can be misleading, and thus potentially risky for those no longer young or not of optimal fitness.
As a...
I am getting a little older now, but when I started 10 years ago I was reasonably fleet-of-foot, such that I passed people frequently. Everyone got a 'Hola' from me, and sometimes a conversation. I would then run into them down the track in albergues and cafes and the ice was already broken...
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