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I could have written every word of this. Well done, sir! This was exactly my experience of the Camino ... three journeys in one, no injuries, just wonder & gratitude & awe that my late-50s body could walk millions of steps... and it maybe didn’t change me, either, but certainly made me so much...
I’m sorry I don’t remember the name of the tiny corner café on the main street in St. Jean... all I remember was it was on the right side of the street as you walk out of the old town. I stayed at the municipal albergue close to the Citadel, and I think the corner café was along the “busy”...
I walked to Fisterra not because of a mythical or mystical pull (at least, no more than the normal baseline pull of doing the Camino in the first place). For me walking to the End of the Earth was wonderful because: (a) I was heartbroken that my Camino was “officially“ over in Santiago. I didn’t...
Similar experience. They were definitely less friendly than other hospitaleros. On my 2nd camino I’d had a hellish & exhausting snowy trek from SJPP the day before. Got a good night’s sleep & at 7:45am I was fully dressed & just putting the finishing touches on my pack when the hospitalero came...
I walked my first Camino (the Frances) during April this year, and it was spectacular. During the two weeks around Easter (mid-April), I was on the meseta and in Burgos/León — popular Easter week destinations because of their spectacular cathedrals, and it was definitely a bit busier as local...
I was amazed at the variety of experiences in the churches along the CF. Sometimes the simplest building would overwhelm me with emotion, while the grand cathedrals in Burgos and Leon were architecturally stunning but often left me feeling cold, and sometimes sad at the excess (WWJD?). I seemed...
The long slog along the industrial route into Burgos was indeed grim -- my least favorite part of the entire Camino. But how sweet the reward when I finally, finally arrived in the old town and saw the magnificent cathedral!
The (thankfully infrequent) dull industrial/suburban parts of the...
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