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  1. Magnara

    Canterbury Cathedral

    We started our VF from Besancon - your posts make me really want to go and do that first half from Canterbury to Besancon. You don't realise when you do your first camino that it's an addiction that never goes away ;)
  2. Magnara

    any information on Via Francigena

    We used a gps at that time because a frequent poster and very experienced pilgrim SillyDoll had walked it previously and ended up on a lot of main roads because they had found very little waymarking. We definitely wanted to stay off main roads as much as possible. It was fairly challenging at...
  3. Magnara

    any information on Via Francigena

    We walked from Besancon in the east of France to Rome (we did a side trip in the middle to see Venice and Ravenna and cut out a bit of the VF route by doing that). We walked in 2010. Across the Grand St Bernard Pass, a highlight. Almost entirely off main roads, along tracks, fields, forests and...
  4. Magnara

    Offering a warm pilgrim welcome in Alba

    What a great post! When we try to explain to people about the attraction of doing caminos, it is so much about the fantastic kindnesses that happen unexpectedly along the way. I'm sure you will give many footsore pilgrims an experience to talk about and remember.
  5. Magnara

    Notes from a week on The Via Francigena

    We walked in 2010 and it doesn't sound as if it has changed much. But we only met one other pilgrim the whole way! We loved it, although we echo the comments about last last scary part - we actually hitched a ride across one particularly terrifying looking bridge on the second last day, for fear...
  6. Magnara

    Leaving Canterbury May 2

    We walked from Besancon starting end of September - i'm sure your weather will be more pleasant, but whatever the weather it is a great route to walk, you'll love it.
  7. Magnara

    Via Francigena review

    Great info NavyBlue. I would add: those *** dogs!!! They welcome you from afar as you approach the village, fling themselves at the fences and continue barking madly as you leave. Long afterward we kicked ourselves not to have thought to have a pocketful of dog treats to fling over the fences...
  8. Magnara

    Via Francigena review

    We walked from Besancon in France to Rome in 2010. It was fantastic, although we walked in October and November which meant a fair bit of rain. The upside is we had beautiful autumn colours the whole way. Across the mountains in southern Switzerland, down through Italy. Aah, bliss! We loved it...
  9. Magnara

    Vercelli to Rome this yr - Phase 3 of my VF

    I love your posts - it gives it in a nutshell. We walked the VF in autumn (starting in Besancon in late September and arriving in Rome at the end of November.) It was cold and wet quite a lot, but we absolutely loved all of it, a great atmosphere, and the pilgrims of more interest to the locals...
  10. Magnara

    Vercelli to Rome this yr - Phase 3 of my VF

    Loving your posts Bob, it brings back so many memories. In Campagnano di Roma we stayed in a convent with delightful nuns. You are so close to Rome now! The moment you step into St Peter's square is an amazing feeling! Maggie Ramsay (The Italian Camino - Amazon)
  11. Magnara

    Vercelli to Rome this yr - Phase 3 of my VF

    Good luck, you're in for a treat walking that lovely camino.
  12. Magnara

    Vercelli to Rome this yr - Phase 3 of my VF

    We didn't book very much on our Via F. Mostly we just started asking at a cafe or bar when we got to a village and we decided to stop. ?We also like to wing it. There is always somewhere to stay. It helps if you can at least say enough in Italian to explain your basic need and who you are...
  13. Magnara

    Camaraderie on the Via Francigena

    I'm so glad it has been useful. I agree with some later comments that Italy is very spiritual still and the sheer novelty makes for great encounters and a lot of spontaneous kindness from the locals so there is a different kind of contact.
  14. Magnara

    Camaraderie on the Via Francigena

    Like the others we found very few other pilgrims. We walked in October and November 4 years ago. We found a gps handheld was a great help in not ending up walking on roads all the time. The feeling of walking into Rome was amazing. We are now on our third camino , this time Le Puy to St Jean -...
  15. Magnara

    Accommodations on Via Francigena?

    We found the same all along the way - even staying in convents didn't seemed to be cheap. We allowed 35 euros a night for accommodation because of the lack of albergue infrastructure on the Via. We did knock on a door one night and ended up being the guest of the owner , by accident actually, we...
  16. Magnara

    VF from Aosta to Rome

    Starting at Bourg St Pierre would add one of the absolute highlights for us - the walk up the Grand St Bernard Pass and staying at the Hospice at the top. Fabulous in every way, the walk (challenging but fine) the stay at the top (full of history and a wonderful place) the scenery, and of course...
  17. Magnara

    VF from Aosta to Rome

    The VF is very different, mainly because it is still comparatively almost unknown and the numbers are tiny (although people along the way understand and respect that you are a pilgrim). We walked Sept to the end of Nov from Besancon to Rome. We used a hand-held GPS because we read from...
  18. Magnara

    Besancon to Vercelli - remembrance of times past

    Great posts - I envy you the exhilaration of reaching the Hospice at the Grand St Bernard Pass just ahead of you. Loving the photos too - nice one of Chillon Castle and the lake. Maggie Ramsay
  19. Magnara

    Besancon to Vercelli - remembrance of times past

    Your words brought back wonderful memories or our "Via". I hope you keep posting, it will be great to walk along those paths in my mind's eye as you go. I am sure when you walk into St Peter's square you will have the same rush of emotion as we did - the long walk, the wonderful people, the...
  20. Magnara

    Start Besancon to Pavia June 18

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